That rosy tomato perched on your plate in December is at the end of
a great journey-not just over land and sea, but across a vast and
varied cultural history. This is the territory charted in Fresh.
Opening the door of an ordinary refrigerator, it tells the curious
story of the quality stored inside: freshness. We want fresh foods
to keep us healthy, and to connect us to nature and community. We
also want them convenient, pretty, and cheap. Fresh traces our
paradoxical hunger to its roots in the rise of mass consumption,
when freshness seemed both proof of and an antidote to progress.
Susanne Freidberg begins with refrigeration, a trend as
controversial at the turn of the twentieth century as genetically
modified crops are today. Consumers blamed cold storage for high
prices and rotten eggs but, ultimately, aggressive marketing,
advances in technology, and new ideas about health and hygiene
overcame this distrust. Freidberg then takes six common foods from
the refrigerator to discover what each has to say about our notions
of freshness. Fruit, for instance, shows why beauty trumped taste
at a surprisingly early date. In the case of fish, we see how the
value of a living, quivering catch has ironically hastened the
death of species. And of all supermarket staples, why has milk
remained the most stubbornly local? Local livelihoods; global
trade; the politics of taste, community, and environmental change:
all enter into this lively, surprising, yet sobering tale about the
nature and cost of our hunger for freshness.
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