"Under Pressure," writes Harold McGee in his introduction to this,
the first book written in English on cooking sous vide, "introduces
cooks to one of the most important culinary innovations of modern
times."
An uncommonly grand claim coming from so precise a scientist and
writer, but such is the power of this controversial method. "Thomas
Keller and his chefs," McGee continues, "illustrate the powers of
precision heating with dozens of dishes that wouldn't be as fine,
or even conceivable, without it."
Sous vide method comprises a group of techniques that allows the
cook to realize flavors and textures that no other cooking method
can. By sealing food in plastic and submerging it at exact
temperatures for minutes or for days-food that is traditionally
braised, sauteed, roasted, or poached-we can attain astonishing
results. The tough cuts of meat we once braised in simmering stock
can now be cooked sous vide to a medium-rare pink, juicy and
meltingly tender. Lamb loin, veal tenderloin, and other larger cuts
of meat, difficult to cook evenly, emerge uniform throughout.
Delicate fish is enhanced and the margin of error reduced.
Vegetables and fruits, cooked in an oxygen-free environment, remain
vividly colored. And, because the food is sealed in plastic, its
flavor is never lost to the cooking water or the atmosphere.
Carrots taste more like carrots, apples more like apples. Small
amounts of herbs and other aromatics can have dramatic effects.
Cold techniques are valuable as well. Marinades used with meats "en
sous vide "are powerfully effective. Various fruits and vegetables,
such as melons, cucumbers, and pineapple, become new when
compressed.
"Under Pressure: Cooking SousVide "is an invaluable contribution to
our culinary world at a time of unprecedented interest in food and
cooking, both in the restaurant kitchen and at home. The most
critical aspect of sous vide lies in discovering what combination
of time and temperature achieves the most sublime results. The
answers, as discovered and practiced during the past decade by the
chefs of The French Laundry and per se, two of the most respected
restaurants in the world, are all here, within the innovative
recipes from Keller's landmark restaurants.
"Under Pressure "is a source of instruction, technique, and recipes
for anyone who wants to experience the new ideas sous vide makes
possible, inspiration for what is possible and what might be.
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