Originally published in 1934, this book identifies and analyses the
different types of waves most prevalent amongst the world's oceans
and rivers and is an account of the author's original contributions
to the knowledge of wave phenomena. Chapter one comprehensively
explores the size and speed of ocean waves in relation to the
velocity of wind, chapter two analyses waves in sand and snow
formed and propelled by wind and current, whist chapter three
investigates tidal bores and other progressive waves in rivers. The
book also contains a variety of insightful and fascinating
photographs presenting the different varieties of wave formation,
such as tidal sand waves, leaping waves and the roll waves of a
stream. This book will serve as an important reference work for
researchers in the field and will be of considerable value to
anyone interested in geophysics, climatology and oceanography.
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