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Every one of the 12 cookbooks Arto der Haroutunian wrote became a
classic; his thoughtful, erudite writing helped to explain to
westerners the subtlety, complexity and diversity of Middle Eastern
and North African cooking. In Vegetarian Dishes from the Middle
East he collected together a treasury of recipes. The cooking of
vegetables is treated with reverence in the in the lands that make
up the rich and varied tapestry of the Middle East. The people
depend on the grains and pulses, nuts, vegetables and fruits of the
region for their daily food. Here are warm and spicy stuffed
vegetables, cool and fragrant soups, delicate preserves, pilafs,
breads, pickles, relishes and pastries. Arto der Haroutunian was
born in Aleppo, Syria in 1940 and grew up in the Levant, but came
to England with his parents as a child and remained here for most
of his life. He studied architecture at Manchester University and
established a career designing restaurants, clubs and hotels. In
1970, in partnership with his brother, he opened the first Armenian
restaurant in Manchester which eventually became a successful chain
of six restaurants and two hotels. Given his passion for cooking it
was a natural progression that he should then begin to write
cookery books as they combined his love of food with his great
interest in the history and culture of the region. It was his
belief that the rich culinary tradition of the Middle East is the
main source of many of our Western cuisines and his books were
intended as an introduction to that tradition. All the many
cookbooks written by Der Haroutunian have now been out of print for
many years and second hand copies fetch hundreds of pounds. He died
in 1987 at the untimely age of 47. He is survived by his wife and
son who still live in Manchester. As well as his passion for
cooking, Arto der Haroutunian was a painter of international
reputation who exhibited all over the world. His other interests
included composing music and translating Turkish, Arab, Persian and
Armenian authors. He was a true polymath.
The basis of society in Arabia, especially in the south, was
agriculture – cereals, aromatics and spices were produced and
exported via the caravan routes which passed from Syria through
Arabia to the Yemen. Thus Arab dishes are subtle, varied and
exotic. The basic diet largely comprised, and still does, dates,
rice, milk, goat or lamb meat and coffee. The patchwork of peoples
and countries that form this medley comprise dishes from Egypt –
some of the oldest recipes in the world such as melokhia, the
famous soup of the Pharaohs. From Syria – an enormous range of
vegetable salads. From Lebanon – sun-ripened fruits. From Iraq
– date, hazelnut, mushroom and fig recipes. From Armenia and
Kurdistan – the cracked wheat burghul dishes. From Cappadocia –
the exotic flavours of sesame and tahini. From the Caucasus – the
vast array of kebabs. From Assyria and Armenia – classic stuffed
vegetable dishes – mahsi, and from Persia – yogurt dishes,
fabulous rice dishes, sherbets and sweet and sour dishes.
Incorporating the history, traditions, and techniques of these
countries Arto der Haroutunian has assembled an unparalleled
breadth of recipes representing the whole gamut of Arab cooking.
Arto der Haroutunian takes adventurous cooks on a tour of the
cuisines of Morocco, Algeria, Tunisia and Libya in this
comprehensive guide to North African food. There are over 300
recipes for traditional dishes such as tagines, stews, soups, and
salads using classic ingredients such as fiery spices, jewel-like
dried fruits, lemons, and armfuls of fresh herbs. Simplicity is at
the heart of the medina kitchen. The exotic fuses with the domestic
to produce dishes that are highly flavoured yet quick and easy to
prepare. Vegetables are prepared in succulent and unusual ways
while dishes such as chicken honey and onion couscous, and 'gazelle
horns' filled with almonds, sugar and orange blossom water provide
a feast for both the imagination and the palate.
This book is about vegetables: the known, the little known and the
few still largely unknown. It is vegetarian because vegetables are
at their best when treated as they are without the addition of
meat, fish or poultry. What is collected here is a rich, wholesome
repertoire of fascinating recipes reflecting mans tireless drive to
create food that flatters his palate, fills his stomach and
satisfies his bodily needs.
All Arto der Haroutunian's twelve cookbooks written in the 1980s
became classics; it was his belief that the rich culinary tradition
of the Middle East is the main source of many of our Western
cuisines and his books were intended as an introduction to that
tradition. His Sweets & Desserts of the Middle East is regarded
as the seminal work on the subject but it had been out of print for
almost thirty years. At last here in a new edition is the Middle
Eastern cookbook that everyone wants. In this book he takes us on a
sumptuous and erudite tour of one of the delights of Middle Eastern
cuisine. Sweets and desserts occupy a special place in those lands
where natutal food resources can sometimes be limited. The people
have made supreme the art of creating delights from very little and
in doing do have enriched their world with wafer-thin pastries,
luscious halvas, crunchy biscuits, exotic fruits and cool
refreshing sorbets. Many Middle Eastern desserts are very sweet
(literally soaked in honey or syrup) and yet their variety is
infinite. It reflects the multifarious origins and races of the
people of the region and combines ancient traditions and modern
influences. One basic sweet may have been adapted in a dozen
different ways. Tantalisingly fragrant, sweet and succulent or dry
and spiced with the aroma of the East they transport us as if by
magic carpet to the exotic lands of the orient. There are recipes
for sesame and date baklavas, almond and pistachio coated biscuits,
tempting stuffed fruits, rich mousses, delicate sorbets and syrups,
jams and preserves, all of which may tempt you to conjure up these
Middle Eastern delicacies in your own home.
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