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Joe Tasker lies, struck down by illness, in a damp, bug-infested
room in the Himalaya, wondering if he will be well enough to climb
Dunagiri, his first venture to the 'big' mountains. One of
Britain's foremost mountaineers and a pioneer of lightweight
climbing, he is about to attempt one of the first true
'alpine-style' climbs in the Greater Ranges. The Dunagiri attempt
forms part of Tasker's striking tale of adventure in the savage
arena of the mountains. A superb writer, he vividly describes the
first British winter ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, the
first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang - considered a
'preposterous' plan by the climbing world - and his two
unsuccessful attempts on K2, the second highest mountain on Earth.
Savage Arena is both moving and exciting, an inspirational tale of
the adventuring spirit which follows its own path, endlessly
seeking new challenges, climbs and difficulties to overcome. It is
not reaching the summit which counts, it is the journey to it. It
is also a story of the stresses and strains of living for long
periods in constant anxiety, often with only one other person, and
of the close and vital human relationships which spring from those
circumstances.
On 30 January 1981 Joe Tasker and Ade Burgess stood at 24,000 feet
on the West Ridge of Mount Everest. Below them were their
companions, some exhausted, some crippled by illness, all virtually
incapacitated. Further progress seemed impossible. Everest the
Cruel Way is Joe Tasker's story of an attempt to climb the highest
mountain on earth - an attempt which pushed a group of Britain's
finest mountaineers to their limits. The goal had been to climb
Mount Everest at its hardest: via the infamous West Ridge, without
supplementary oxygen and in winter. Tasker's epic account vividly
describes experiences that no climber had previously endured. Close
up and personal, it is a gripping account of day-to-day life on
expedition and of the struggle to live at high altitude. Joe Tasker
was one of Britain's best mountaineers. He was a pioneer of
lightweight, alpine-style climbing in the Greater Ranges and had a
special talent for writing. He died, along with his friend Peter
Boardman, high on Everest in 1982 while attempting a new and
unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented
writers.
'It was Kongur that dominated everything, and was the focus of our
gaze and aspirations.' So thought Chris Bonington upon the Chinese
Mountaineering Association's decision to open many of Tibet and
China's mountains to foreigners in the 1980s. Not only did this
mean that Kongur, China's 7,719-metre peak, was available to climb,
but that those choosing to do so would be among the first to set
foot there. It was an opportunity too good to miss. For the planned
alpine-style ascent of this daunting peak, Bonington assembled a
formidable team, including Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker, Al Rouse and
expedition leader Michael Ward. Their reconnaissance and 1981
expedition brought opportunity for discovery and obstacles in equal
measure: they were able to explore areas that had eluded westerners
since Eric Shipton's role as British Consul General in Kashgar in
the 1940s; but appalling weather, unplanned bivouacs and tensions
characterised their quest for the ever-elusive route to the summit.
Featuring diary extracts and recollections from each team member,
this account not only captures the gripping detail of the ascent
attempts, but also the ebb and flow of the relationships between
the remarkable mountaineers involved. Add to this the pioneering
medical work on high-altitude illnesses conducted by the four-man
medical team, and the result is a book which captures a unique
moment in mountaineering history. Written with the cheer and
eloquence typical of Chris Bonington, Kongur captures the essence
of adventure and exploration that brings readers back to his books
time and time again.
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