'It was Kongur that dominated everything, and was the focus of our
gaze and aspirations.' So thought Chris Bonington upon the Chinese
Mountaineering Association's decision to open many of Tibet and
China's mountains to foreigners in the 1980s. Not only did this
mean that Kongur, China's 7,719-metre peak, was available to climb,
but that those choosing to do so would be among the first to set
foot there. It was an opportunity too good to miss. For the planned
alpine-style ascent of this daunting peak, Bonington assembled a
formidable team, including Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker, Al Rouse and
expedition leader Michael Ward. Their reconnaissance and 1981
expedition brought opportunity for discovery and obstacles in equal
measure: they were able to explore areas that had eluded westerners
since Eric Shipton's role as British Consul General in Kashgar in
the 1940s; but appalling weather, unplanned bivouacs and tensions
characterised their quest for the ever-elusive route to the summit.
Featuring diary extracts and recollections from each team member,
this account not only captures the gripping detail of the ascent
attempts, but also the ebb and flow of the relationships between
the remarkable mountaineers involved. Add to this the pioneering
medical work on high-altitude illnesses conducted by the four-man
medical team, and the result is a book which captures a unique
moment in mountaineering history. Written with the cheer and
eloquence typical of Chris Bonington, Kongur captures the essence
of adventure and exploration that brings readers back to his books
time and time again.
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