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This is a facsimile of a book first published in 1755 by the owner
of a cookery school in Edinburgh. It is provided with an historical
introduction by Peter Brears who places the work in the context of
what we know about early Scottish cookery literature as well as the
particular context of this book, found in the library of Paxton
House, a mid-18th century Adam mansion in the Scottish borders. It
is a useful marker of the state of Scottish cookery at the time, as
well as full of excellent and enticing recipes. It is published in
collaboration with The Paxton Trust, the present owners of Paxton
House.
Peter Brears has a long acquaintance with jellies in every guise.
He was fed them in childhood, he turned to curating their moulds
and associated artefacts while director of York and Leeds museums,
he has made them for innumerable historical food shows and events.
And jelly is a much bigger thing than some packet from the
supermarket mixed with boiling water. In the first place, it was
not factory-made gelatine that did the setting, but any number of
ingenious adaptations of kitchen materials and ingredients. In the
second, it was not just a simple clear, coloured solid, but an
optical prism to show off and transform the foods contained within
it. It was the old cooks' greatest resource for introducing colour,
variety and delight into the table display. The book sketches in
the history of jellies, particularly in England, and discusses
their place within a meal; gives several recipes based on the
various setting agents (carrageen, gelatine, isinglass) and also
for cereal moulds (flummery, tapioca, semolina, rice, cornflour,
etc.); describes how jellies may be assembled by layering,
embedding, lining and inclusion of fruit, nuts, gold, etc.; and
gives an excellent illustrated account of the various forms of
jelly moulds.
There has been no serious consideration of local food in England.
Most available material is lightweight, not very informative, and a
waste of time for serious students. Prospect Books is about to
change this, in the first instance with respect to the north
country. Last year Peter Brears published Traditional Food in
Northumbria (Excellent Press). This title has now been taken on by
Prospect Books. The next county for treatment is Yorkshire, the
author's home. He has already written on this subject (John Donald,
1987) but this new work is double the length, with many more
illustrations and supporting material. The book opens with a survey
of the various economic and social groups in the county. progresses
to a study of cooking, fuel and installations, then concentrates in
a series of single subject chapters on staple foods - porridge,
oatcake, bread, meat, fish, puddings, and cakes. There then follows
chapters on dairy products and drinks, and closes with a folkloric
survey of feats, fairs and calendar customers, and rites of passage
such as headwashings, weddings and funerals. This is a book that
every Yorkshireman needs. It will be as essential to the
present-day resident, as to the vast number of the Yorkshire
diaspora. And it will be very welcome to those who have felt the
acute lack of any proper study of English food over the last few
decades.
The history of medieval food and cookery has received a fair amount
of attention from the point of view of recipes (of which many
survive)and of the general context of feasts and feasting. It has
never, as yet, been studied with an eye to the real mechanics of
food production and service: the equipment used, the household
organisation, the architectural arrangements for kitchens,
store-rooms, pantries, larders, cellars, and domestic
administration. This new work by Peter Brears, perhaps Britains
foremost expert on the historical kitchen, looks at these important
elements of cooking and dining. He also subjects the many surviving
documents relating to food service household ordinances,
regulations and commentaries to critical study in an attempt to
reconstruct the precise rituals and customs of dinner. An
underlying intention is to rehabilitate the medieval Englishman as
someone with a nice appreciation of food and cookery, decent
manners, and a delicate sense of propriety and seemliness. To
dispel the myth, that is, of medieval feasting as an orgy of
gluttony and bad manners, usually provided with meat that has gone
slightly off, masked by liberal additions of heady spices. A series
of chapters looks at the cooking departments in large households:
the counting house, dairy, brewhouse, pastry, boiling house and
kitchen. These are illustrated by architectural perspectives of
surviving examples in castles and manor houses throughout the land.
Then there are chapters dealing with the various sorts of kitchen
equipment: fires, fuel, pots and pans. Sections are then devoted to
recipes and types of food cooked. The recipes are those which have
been used and tested by Peter Brears in hundreds of demonstrations
to the public and cooking for museum displays. Finally there are
chapters on the service of dinner (the service departments
including the buttery, pantry and ewery) and the rituals that grew
up around these. Here, Peter Brears has drawn a wonderful strip
cartoon of the serving of a great feast (the washing of hands, the
delivery of napery, the tasting for poison, etc.) which will be of
permanent utility to historical re-enactors who wish to get their
details right. Peter Brears was formerly director of the museums at
York and Leeds and has worked all his life in the field of domestic
history. He has written extensively on traditional foods and
cookery in Yorkshire, as well as a groundbreaking illustrated
catalogue of domestic and farmhouse materials in Torquay Museum. He
supervised the reconstruction of several important historical
kitchens, including those at Hampton Court, Ham House, Cowdray
Castle and Belvoir Castle
The Boke of Keruynge is a handbook or manual for well-born boys in
Tudor times who had to learn how to behave at court. They were
often sent to court or to a great house at an early age to be
instructed, as was the experience of Sir Thomas More. The book
provides instruction in arranging feasts and grand dinners, rituals
of table-laying, the preparation, saucing and carving of meats and
fish and servant's duties. This was the equivalent of a 'public
school education'--a boy needed to know, for example, that clergy
were to be served before noble lords, and how to lace a doublet
after first warming the lord's linen underwear before a fire.
Wynkyn de Worde (Jan van Wynkyn, d. 1534) was born in Alsace and
came to England in 1476. He was a printer and publisher in London
known for his work with William Caxton, and was the first to
popularize the products of the printing press in England. This
reprint includes a facsimile of the original text from Cambridge
University Library with a modern interpretation facing each page
and a glossary. Preceding the facsimile is a lengthy introductory
essay by Peter Brears which explains the complicated rituals
involved, including the elaborate arrangements of cloths before and
after the meal. The book also includes drawings and explanations,
an appendix consisting of a table providing a direct means of
determining the carving terms and recommended accompaniments
(syrups, sprinklings and sauces) for each particular item of food,
and a short summary of the life of Wynken de Worde.
The kitchen was very much the heart of the home in country houses
the length and breadth of Britain. Although this hive of activity
was kept behind closed doors and often hidden away in the bowels of
vast mansions, these rooms ensured that the house and those who
lived in it were provisioned. Country houses were formerly
self-sufficient to an incredible degree, requiring a range of
purpose-built accommodation for food storage and a hierarchy of
servants with unique skills. From brewing and baking through to
distilling, working in the dairy and even ice-storage, this book
offers an intimate look at the ingenuity and creativity that kept
these kitchens running smoothly. It also explores the evolution of
the kitchen range, cooking techniques, vessels and gadgets and the
kitchen staff who used them, as well as the relationship between
kitchen, servery and dining room. This book is a must-read for
anyone interested in food, history and country houses, revealing
how, above and below stairs, good food was always on the table.
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