Peter Brears has a long acquaintance with jellies in every guise.
He was fed them in childhood, he turned to curating their moulds
and associated artefacts while director of York and Leeds museums,
he has made them for innumerable historical food shows and events.
And jelly is a much bigger thing than some packet from the
supermarket mixed with boiling water. In the first place, it was
not factory-made gelatine that did the setting, but any number of
ingenious adaptations of kitchen materials and ingredients. In the
second, it was not just a simple clear, coloured solid, but an
optical prism to show off and transform the foods contained within
it. It was the old cooks' greatest resource for introducing colour,
variety and delight into the table display. The book sketches in
the history of jellies, particularly in England, and discusses
their place within a meal; gives several recipes based on the
various setting agents (carrageen, gelatine, isinglass) and also
for cereal moulds (flummery, tapioca, semolina, rice, cornflour,
etc.); describes how jellies may be assembled by layering,
embedding, lining and inclusion of fruit, nuts, gold, etc.; and
gives an excellent illustrated account of the various forms of
jelly moulds.
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