THE LAND OF THE CAMEL Tents and Temples of Inner Mongolia By SCHUYLER CAMMANN THE RONALD PRESS COMPANY f NEW YORK Copyright, 1951, by THE RONALD PRESS COMPANY All Rights Reserved The text of this publication or any part thereof may not be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without permission in writing 1 from the publisher. PRINTED IN THE XJNITED STATES OF AMERICA To Marcia WHO WAITED FOREWORD This book describes western Inner Mongolia in 1945. For almost nine years this region had been cut off by hostilities with the Japa nese, which began there in 1936, and it will probably be a very long time before any American can get there again. Even before the war it was little known, as the distance from the China coast had prevented foreign contacts, except for a handful of missionaries. The war years had brought marked changes to Inner Mongolia, accelerating the exploitation, terrorization, and dispossession of the Mongols which the Chinese had begun some forty years before. Enough Mongols were still living there, however, to enable us to see and share their life in tents and temples, after the end of the war brought us leisure from other activities. It seemed important to write down what we saw of their strange customs and complex religion, as well as to describe the forces that were undermining their old traditions and their way of life. Thus this is primarily an account of the Mongols we met, and their opponents among the immigrant settlers and border officials. But it would not present a complete picture of the region if it did not also describe the semifeudal realm of the Belgian mission ary fathers, . which has now passed into history. Most of Chapter 10 has previously been published inthe Bulletin of the University Museum, Philadelphia, while some of the passages dealing with Mongolian chess have appeared in an article for Natural History. The writer is especially grateful to Walter Hill and to Dr. William LaSor for their kindness in allowing him to use their photographs. SCHUYLER CAMMANN University of Pennsylvania September, 1950 CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE 1 First Impressions of Mongolia 3 2 Crossing the Ordos 9 3 The Great Plain IS 4 Camp Life and Recreation 21 5 Farmers of the Great Plain 28 6 The Victory in Shanpa 41 7 Our First Lamasery 48 8 The Mongols at Home 57 9 Meeting Dunguerbo 66 10 The Living Buddha of Shandagu 73 11 Chien-li Temple, Pride of the Oirats 85 12 More Lama Personalities 96 13 Mongol Festival 101 14 Down the Range to Dabatu Pass 106 1 5 Temple in the Gobi 1 14 16 Dunguerbo and His Family 121 17 The Journey to Ago-in Sume 130 18 Temple of the Antelope Cave 137 19 Last Days in Shanpa 143 20 Lo-pei Chao 152 21 South by Camel 163 22 Ninghsia Interlude 173 23 The Second Camel Trip 183 24 Leaving the Ordos 193 Index 199 vii ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Getting the truck aboard the Yellow River ferry 12 Ordos camels in summer, with sagging humps 12 Chinese immigrant farmer ploughing up old Mongol grazing land on Hou-tao Plain 13 Farmers harvesting soy beans on Hou-tao Plain 13 The camp well 24 A Chinese mother rides into Shanpa to market 24 A Provincial army caravan enters Shanpa 24 Typical Chinese tenant farmers homes on Hou-tao Plain 25 Tsong Kapa, founder of the Reformed Sect, with episodes from his life 52 Tara, the Green Goddess. Gilded bronze image from a Mongol lamasery 53 Mongol woman milking goats 64 Yurts in the wasteland, Beilighe Pass 64 Dunguerboturning a giant prayer wheel in a lamasery 65 Shandagu Miao at the base of the mountains. Author in foreground 80 Chortens at Shandagu Miao 80 Yamantaka and other demon-gods 80 The Golden Image at Shandagu Miao 81 Main pieces from two Mongolian chess sets 88 Playing Mongolian Chess 89 Peacock pawns and rabbit pawns from two Mongolian chess sets 89 The Abbot, Lopon Dorje, receives some guests 104 Two Oirat matrons in festival finery 105 A Mongol woman brings her child to the Festival 105 A Temple in the Gobi...

Contributing Authors Include John Clark Archer, Samuel D. Atkins, Ludwig Bachhofer And Others.

THE LAND OF THE CAMEL Tents and Temples of Inner Mongolia By SCHUYLER CAMMANN THE RONALD PRESS COMPANY f NEW YORK Copyright, 1951, by THE RONALD PRESS COMPANY All Rights Reserved The text of this publication or any part thereof may not be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without permission in writing 1 from the publisher. PRINTED IN THE XJNITED STATES OF AMERICA To Marcia WHO WAITED FOREWORD This book describes western Inner Mongolia in 1945. For almost nine years this region had been cut off by hostilities with the Japa nese, which began there in 1936, and it will probably be a very long time before any American can get there again. Even before the war it was little known, as the distance from the China coast had prevented foreign contacts, except for a handful of missionaries. The war years had brought marked changes to Inner Mongolia, accelerating the exploitation, terrorization, and dispossession of the Mongols which the Chinese had begun some forty years before. Enough Mongols were still living there, however, to enable us to see and share their life in tents and temples, after the end of the war brought us leisure from other activities. It seemed important to write down what we saw of their strange customs and complex religion, as well as to describe the forces that were undermining their old traditions and their way of life. Thus this is primarily an account of the Mongols we met, and their opponents among the immigrant settlers and border officials. But it would not present a complete picture of the region if it did not also describe the semifeudal realm of the Belgian mission ary fathers, . which has now passed into history. Most of Chapter 10 has previously been published inthe Bulletin of the University Museum, Philadelphia, while some of the passages dealing with Mongolian chess have appeared in an article for Natural History. The writer is especially grateful to Walter Hill and to Dr. William LaSor for their kindness in allowing him to use their photographs. SCHUYLER CAMMANN University of Pennsylvania September, 1950 CONTENTS CHAPTER PAGE 1 First Impressions of Mongolia 3 2 Crossing the Ordos 9 3 The Great Plain IS 4 Camp Life and Recreation 21 5 Farmers of the Great Plain 28 6 The Victory in Shanpa 41 7 Our First Lamasery 48 8 The Mongols at Home 57 9 Meeting Dunguerbo 66 10 The Living Buddha of Shandagu 73 11 Chien-li Temple, Pride of the Oirats 85 12 More Lama Personalities 96 13 Mongol Festival 101 14 Down the Range to Dabatu Pass 106 1 5 Temple in the Gobi 1 14 16 Dunguerbo and His Family 121 17 The Journey to Ago-in Sume 130 18 Temple of the Antelope Cave 137 19 Last Days in Shanpa 143 20 Lo-pei Chao 152 21 South by Camel 163 22 Ninghsia Interlude 173 23 The Second Camel Trip 183 24 Leaving the Ordos 193 Index 199 vii ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Getting the truck aboard the Yellow River ferry 12 Ordos camels in summer, with sagging humps 12 Chinese immigrant farmer ploughing up old Mongol grazing land on Hou-tao Plain 13 Farmers harvesting soy beans on Hou-tao Plain 13 The camp well 24 A Chinese mother rides into Shanpa to market 24 A Provincial army caravan enters Shanpa 24 Typical Chinese tenant farmers homes on Hou-tao Plain 25 Tsong Kapa, founder of the Reformed Sect, with episodes from his life 52 Tara, the Green Goddess. Gilded bronze image from a Mongol lamasery 53 Mongol woman milking goats 64 Yurts in the wasteland, Beilighe Pass 64 Dunguerboturning a giant prayer wheel in a lamasery 65 Shandagu Miao at the base of the mountains. Author in foreground 80 Chortens at Shandagu Miao 80 Yamantaka and other demon-gods 80 The Golden Image at Shandagu Miao 81 Main pieces from two Mongolian chess sets 88 Playing Mongolian Chess 89 Peacock pawns and rabbit pawns from two Mongolian chess sets 89 The Abbot, Lopon Dorje, receives some guests 104 Two Oirat matrons in festival finery 105 A Mongol woman brings her child to the Festival 105 A Temple in the Gobi...