An eclectic mix of exciting stories every surfer will love
This eclectic mix has something for everyone, from classic tales
of monster waves and epic battles to stories of when life among the
breakers goes wrong. There are accounts of death and disaster, as
well as bravery and triumph. The bizarre and the extreme rub
shoulders with perfect breaks and beautiful beaches.
Be thrilled by legendary surfers like Laird Hamilton and Shane
Dorian as well as learning about local heroes who never made the
headlines. Epic battles among pros like Rob Machado and Kelly
Slater are recounted alongside stories of weird waves and secret
surf spots. There are fascinating encounters with surfing's true
characters, men like Dave Rastovich and big wave world record
holder Garrett McNamara; appearances by deadly sharks; stories of
big wave surfing by night; and an account of how Agatha Christie's
famous disappearance for 11 days in December 1926 might just have
been because she was on a surf trip.
Travel from giants like California's Maverick's and Maui's Jaws
to tales of Dungeons, dolphins and the derring-do of a man like
Colonel 'Mad Jack' Churchill. Turn the pages to flick between the
left and rights of Britain, Europe, USA, Australia and many strange
places in between.
Each compelling tale has been chosen to stoke the fire of
armchair surfers and hardcore wave-riders alike, and some are
illustrated with colour photographs.
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