Sugar, pork, beer, corn, cider, scrapple, and hoppin' John all
became staples in the diet of colonial America. The ways Americans
cultivated and prepared food and the values they attributed to it
played an important role in shaping the identity of the newborn
nation. In "A Revolution in Eating," James E. McWilliams presents a
colorful and spirited tour of culinary attitudes, tastes, and
techniques throughout colonial America.
Confronted by strange new animals, plants, and landscapes,
settlers in the colonies and West Indies found new ways to produce
food. Integrating their British and European tastes with the
demands and bounty of the rugged American environment, early
Americans developed a range of regional cuisines. From the kitchen
tables of typical Puritan families to Iroquois longhouses in the
backcountry and slave kitchens on southern plantations, McWilliams
portrays the grand variety and inventiveness that characterized
colonial cuisine. As colonial America grew, so did its palate, as
interactions among European settlers, Native Americans, and African
slaves created new dishes and attitudes about food. McWilliams
considers how Indian corn, once thought by the colonists as "fit
for swine," became a fixture in the colonial diet. He also examines
the ways in which African slaves influenced West Indian and
American southern cuisine.
While a mania for all things British was a unifying feature of
eighteenth-century cuisine, the colonies discovered a national
beverage in domestically brewed beer, which came to symbolize
solidarity and loyalty to the patriotic cause in the Revolutionary
era. The beer and alcohol industry also instigated unprecedented
trade among the colonies and further integrated colonial habits and
tastes. Victory in the American Revolution initiated a "culinary
declaration of independence," prompting the antimonarchical habits
of simplicity, frugality, and frontier ruggedness to define
American cuisine. McWilliams demonstrates that this was a shift not
so much in new ingredients or cooking methods, as in the way
Americans imbued food and cuisine with values that continue to
shape American attitudes to this day.
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