This is a richly descriptive account of the history of perfume.
Aftel explains how the makers of perfume inherited alchemists'
traditional practices, thereby laying the foundations of the modern
industry. Towards the end of the 19th century and the beginning of
the 20th, perfumers experimented with combinations of ingredients
and started using synthetic materials instead of naturally
occurring ones such as extracts from plants and animal essences.
Aftel explains the intricacies of top notes, middle notes and base
notes and the difference between perfumes with synthetic bases and
those with natural bases. Apparently synthetic perfumes produce an
instant effect which rapidly disappears, whereas natural bases
change subtly and react with the wearer's body chemistry. The book
explores the various groups of essences and the feelings that they
can evoke, as well as the spiritual and physical meanings of
perfume, and the delight and pleasure it can bring. Aftel describes
exotic and sometimes extraordinary blends - some of the most
magical perfumes contain essence of civet, which smells foul
undiluted, yet one drop added to a mixture can produce wonderful
depth and scent. Tea, tobacco and tarragon are other unlikely
ingredients. Aftel is clearly passionate about the subject and this
book is a fascinating account of both the practical and the
personal aspects of scent. A bibliography and list of places that
stock ingredients are included for anyone wanting to learn more
about this absorbing area of knowledge. (Kirkus UK)
As long as there has been passion, there has been perfume. Wealthy
Romans used to scent their doves while in Shakespeare's time, a
woman in love would place a peeled apple into her armpit to
saturate it with her scent and then present it to her lover.
"Essence and Alchemy" resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy
that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas
of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists. Aftel tracks
scent through the boudoir and the bath and into the sanctums of
worship, and along the way teaches us the art of perfume-making,
including many of her own recipes, offering insights on the
relationship of scent to solitude, sex, and soul.
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