African American cooks were not strangers in the kitchens of the
Old South, but white southerners often failed to acknowledge their
contributions. One of the first exceptions was Kentucky socialite
Minnie C. Fox, who recognized the significant influence and
importance of the African American cooks and wrote The Blue Grass
Cook Book, first published in 1904.
From biscuits and hams to ice creams and puddings, this cookbook
is a collection of over three hundred recipes from family and
friends, including black cooks, near Minnie Fox's Bourbon County,
Kentucky, family estate and her Big Stone Gap, Virginia, home. In
Fox's time, the culinary history of black women in the South was
usually characterized by demoralizing portraits of servants toiling
in "big house" kitchens. In contrast, The Blue Grass Cook Book,
with its photographs of African American cooks at work and a
passionate introduction by Fox's brother, respected Kentucky
novelist John Fox Jr., offers insight into the complex bond between
well-to-do mistresses and their cooks at the turn of the
century.
Toni Tipton-Martin's new introduction provides in-depth
commentary on the social, cultural, and historical context of this
significant cookbook. She presents background information on the
Fox family and their apparently uncommon appreciation for the
African Americans of their time. She reveals the vital role of the
black cooks in the preparation and service required in establishing
the well-known Southern hospitality tradition.
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