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The $16 Taco - Contested Geographies of Food, Ethnicity, and Gentrification (Paperback)
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The $16 Taco - Contested Geographies of Food, Ethnicity, and Gentrification (Paperback)
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Having “discovered” the flavors of barbacoa, bibimbap, bánh
mi, sambusas, and pupusas, white middle-class eaters are
increasingly venturing into historically segregated neighborhoods
in search of “authentic” eateries run by—and for—immigrants
and people of color. Fueled by media attention and capitalized on
by developers, this interest in "ethnic" food and places
contributes to gentrification, and the very people who produced
these vibrant foodscapes are increasingly excluded from them.
Drawing on extensive fieldwork, geographer Pascale
Joassart-Marcelli traces the transformation of three urban San
Diego neighborhoods whose foodscapes are shifting from serving the
needs of longtime minoritized residents who face limited food
access to pleasing the tastes of wealthier and whiter newcomers.
The $16 Taco illustrates how food can both emplace and displace
immigrants, shedding light on the larger process of gentrification
and the emotional, cultural, economic, and physical displacement it
produces. It also highlights the contested food geographies of
immigrants and people of color by documenting their contributions
to the cultural food economy and everyday struggles to reclaim
ethnic foodscapes and lead flourishing and hunger-free lives.
Joassart-Marcelli offers valuable lessons for cities where
food-related development projects transform neighborhoods at the
expense of the communities they claim to celebrate.
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