A study of the evolution of American women's clothing, ""When the
Girls Came Out to Play"" traces the history of modern sportswear as
a universal style that broke down traditional gender roles.
Patricia Warner shows how this profound cultural shift, which did
not reach fruition until World War II, originated during the
previous century with the gradual expansion of socially acceptable
physical activity for women. Behind this development was a growing
interest in sports and exercise that was further nurtured by the
establishment of schools of higher education for women. The
participation of women in athletic pursuits previously reserved for
men began with the relatively genteel sports of croquet and tennis.
With the founding of women's colleges, these ""ladylike"" games
were supplemented by more vigorous activities and competitive team
sports, from gymnastics to swimming to basketball. At first, Warner
points out, women literally had nothing to wear for these
activities. Whereas such fashionable attire as corsets, petticoats,
hats, and gloves could be worn while playing outdoor lawn games,
more strenuous athletic endeavours required less physically
restrictive clothing. Even so, change came only gradually, as
women's colleges, shielded from public scrutiny and prying male
eyes, permitted the adoption of looser, more comfortable apparel
for physical education. Many of these new outfits featured
trousers, garments considered taboo for women, though they often
remained hidden beneath voluminous skirts. Over time, however, the
practicality and versatility of such clothing led to social
acceptance, laying the foundation for the emergence of the now
ubiquitous yet distinctly American style known as sportswear.
Although, we take it for granted, Warner observes, this is the
first time in the history of the world that such universality has
existed in clothing, and it has lasted now for well over half a
century - in itself a marvel, considering the speed of fashion
change in an era of instant messages and images.
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