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Kook - What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave (Paperback, Original)
Loot Price: R415
Discovery Miles 4 150
You Save: R80
(16%)
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Kook - What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave (Paperback, Original)
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List price R495
Loot Price R415
Discovery Miles 4 150
You Save R80 (16%)
Expected to ship within 10 - 15 working days
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Author of the "New York Times" bestselling novel "The Dog
Stars
"Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of
"The Whale Warriors "recounts his remarkable journey of
discovery--of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean's
beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and,
most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful
life.
Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave-- that is, to go from
kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder--in a single year, Heller
travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the
company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet.
Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science
of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental
ravages to the stunning coastline he visits.
As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both
love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this
fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its
absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving,
"Kook" is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and
his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
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