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The Lost Southern Chefs - A History of Commercial Dining in the Nineteenth-Century South (Paperback)
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The Lost Southern Chefs - A History of Commercial Dining in the Nineteenth-Century South (Paperback)
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In recent years, food writers and historians have begun to retell
the story of southern food. Heirloom ingredients and traditional
recipes have been rediscovered, the foundational role that African
Americans played in the evolution of southern cuisine is coming to
be recognized, and writers are finally clearing away the cobwebs of
romantic myth that have long distorted the picture. The story of
southern dining, however, remains incomplete. The Lost Southern
Chefs begins to fill that niche by charting the evolution of
commercial dining in the nineteenth-century South. Robert F. Moss
punctures long-accepted notions that dining outside the home was
universally poor, arguing that what we would today call "fine
dining" flourished throughout the region as its towns and cities
grew. Moss describes the economic forces and technological advances
that revolutionized public dining, reshaped commercial pantries,
and gave southerners who loved to eat a wealth of restaurants,
hotel dining rooms, oyster houses, confectionery stores, and
saloons. Most important, Moss tells the forgotten stories of the
people who drove this culinary revolution. These men and women
fully embodied the title "chef," as they were the chiefs of their
kitchens, directing large staffs, staging elaborate events for
hundreds of guests, and establishing supply chains for the very
best ingredients from across the expanding nation. Many were
African Americans or recent immigrants from Europe, and they
achieved culinary success despite great barriers and social
challenges. These chefs and entrepreneurs became embroiled in the
pitched political battles of Reconstruction and Jim Crow, and then
their names were all but erased from history.
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