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Divided Spirits - Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production (Paperback)
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Divided Spirits - Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production (Paperback)
Series: California Studies in Food and Culture, 56
Expected to ship within 12 - 17 working days
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Divided Spirits tells the stories of tequila and mezcal, two of
Mexico's most iconic products. In doing so, the book illustrates
how neoliberalism influences the production, branding, and
regulation of local foods and drinks. It also challenges the
strategy of relying on "alternative" markets to protect food
cultures and rural livelihoods. In recent years, as consumers
increasingly demand to connect with the people and places that
produce their food, the concept of terroir-the taste of place-has
become more and more prominent. Tequila and mezcal are both
protected by denominations of origin (DOs), legal designations that
aim to guarantee a product's authenticity based on its link to
terroir. Advocates argue that the DOs expand market opportunities,
protect cultural heritage, and ensure the reputation of Mexico's
national spirits. Yet this book shows how the institutions that are
supposed to guard "the legacy of all Mexicans" often fail those who
are most in need of protection: the small producers, agave farmers,
and other workers who have been making tequila and mezcal for
generations. The consequences-for the quality and taste of tequila
and mezcal, and for communities throughout Mexico-are stark.
Divided Spirits suggests that we must move beyond market-based
models if we want to safeguard local products and the people who
make them. Instead, we need systems of production, consumption, and
oversight that are more democratic, more inclusive, and more
participatory. Lasting change is unlikely without the involvement
of the state and a sustained commitment to addressing inequality
and supporting rural development.
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