A Mesoamerican travel book from two perspectives and two
centuries.
In 1839 John Lloyd Stephens, then 31 years old, and his
traveling companion, artist Frederick Catherwood, disappeared into
the vast rain forest of eastern Guatemala. They had heard rumors
that remains of a civilization of incomparable artistic and
cultural merit were moldering in the steamy lowland jungles. They
braved Indian uprisings, road agents, heat, and biting insects to
eventually encounter what is today known as the lost civilization
of the Maya.
In 1841 Stephens published "Incidents of Travel in Central
America, Chiapas, and Yucatan" to instant acclaim with both
American and international audiences. His conversational style was
fresh and crisp and his subject matter, the search for lost cities
on the Central American isthmus, was romantic and adventurous.
Stephens's book has been characterized as the "great American
nonfiction narrative of the 19th century." Indeed, what Stephens
wrote about the Maya makes a major contribution to Maya
studies.
Steve Glassman retraces Stephens's route, visiting the same
archaeological sites, towns, markets, and churches and meeting
along the way the descendants of those people Stephens described,
from mestizo en route to the cornfields to town elders welcoming
the Norte Americanos. Glassman's work interlaces discussion of the
history, natural environment, and architecture of the region with
descriptions of the people who live and work there. Glassman
compares his 20th-century experience with Stephens's 19th-century
exploration, gazing in awe at the same monumental pyramids, eating
similar foods, and avoiding the political clashes that disrupt the
governments and economies of the area.
Stephens's books are still widely available, but his importance
to literary professionals has been overlooked. With this new
travelogue, Glassman reaffirms Stephens's reputation and brings his
work to wider critical and public attention.
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