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Mountaintops have long been seen as sacred places, home to gods and
dreams. In one climbing year Peter Boardman visited three very
different sacred mountains. He began in the New Year, on the South
Face of the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. This shark's fin of
steep limestone walls and sweeping glaciers is the highest point
between the Andes and the Himalaya, and one of the most
inaccessible, rising above thick jungle inhabited by warring Stone
Age tribes. During the spring Boardman was on more familiar, if
hardly more reassuring, ground, making a four-man, oxygen-free
attempt on the world's third highest peak, Kangchenjunga.
Hurricane-force winds beat back their first two bids on the
unclimbed North Ridge, but they eventually stood within feet of the
summit - leaving the final few yards untrodden in deference to the
inhabiting deity. In October, he was back in the Himalaya and
climbing the mountain most sacred to the Sherpas: the twin-summited
Gauri Sankar. Renowned for its technical difficulty and spectacular
profile, it is aptly dubbed the Eiger of the Himalaya and
Boardman's first ascent of the South Summit took a committing and
gruelling twenty-three days. Three sacred mountains, three very
different expeditions, all superbly captured by Boardman in Sacred
Summits, his second book, first published shortly after his death
in 1982. Combining the excitement of extreme climbing with acute
observation of life in the mountains, this is an amusing, dramatic,
poignant and thought-provoking book, amply fulfilling the promise
of Boardman's first title, The Shining Mountain, for which he won
the John Llewellyn Rhys Prize in 1979.
'It's a preposterous plan. Still, if you do get up it, it'll be the
hardest thing that's been done in the Himalayas.' So spoke Chris
Bonington when Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker presented him with
their plan to tackle the unclimbed West Wall of Changabang - the
Shining Mountain - in 1976. Bonington's was one of the more
positive responses; most felt the climb impossibly hard, especially
for a two-man, lightweight expedition. This was, after all, perhaps
the most fearsome and technically challenging granite wall in the
Garhwal Himalaya and an ascent - particularly one in a lightweight
style - would be more significant than anything done on Everest at
the time. The idea had been Joe Tasker's. He had photographed the
sheer, shining, white granite sweep of Changabang's West Wall on a
previous expedition and asked Pete to return with him the following
year. Tasker contributes a second voice throughout Boardman's
story, which starts with acclimatisation, sleeping in a Salford
frozen food store, and progresses through three nights of hell,
marooned in hammocks during a storm, to moments of exultation at
the variety and intricacy of the superb, if punishingly difficult,
climbing. It is a story of how climbing a mountain can become an
all-consuming goal, of the tensions inevitable in forty days of
isolation on a two-man expedition; as well as a record of the
moment of joy upon reaching the summit ridge against all odds.
First published in 1978, The Shining Mountain is Peter Boardman's
first book. It is a very personal and honest story that is also
amusing, lucidly descriptive, very exciting, and never anything but
immensely readable. It was awarded the John Llewellyn Rhys Prize
for literature in 1979, winning wide acclaim. His second book,
Sacred Summits, was published shortly after his death in 1982.
Joe Tasker lies, struck down by illness, in a damp, bug-infested
room in the Himalaya, wondering if he will be well enough to climb
Dunagiri, his first venture to the 'big' mountains. One of
Britain's foremost mountaineers and a pioneer of lightweight
climbing, he is about to attempt one of the first true
'alpine-style' climbs in the Greater Ranges. The Dunagiri attempt
forms part of Tasker's striking tale of adventure in the savage
arena of the mountains. A superb writer, he vividly describes the
first British winter ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, the
first ascent of the West Wall of Changabang - considered a
'preposterous' plan by the climbing world - and his two
unsuccessful attempts on K2, the second highest mountain on Earth.
Savage Arena is both moving and exciting, an inspirational tale of
the adventuring spirit which follows its own path, endlessly
seeking new challenges, climbs and difficulties to overcome. It is
not reaching the summit which counts, it is the journey to it. It
is also a story of the stresses and strains of living for long
periods in constant anxiety, often with only one other person, and
of the close and vital human relationships which spring from those
circumstances.
On 30 January 1981 Joe Tasker and Ade Burgess stood at 24,000 feet
on the West Ridge of Mount Everest. Below them were their
companions, some exhausted, some crippled by illness, all virtually
incapacitated. Further progress seemed impossible. Everest the
Cruel Way is Joe Tasker's story of an attempt to climb the highest
mountain on earth - an attempt which pushed a group of Britain's
finest mountaineers to their limits. The goal had been to climb
Mount Everest at its hardest: via the infamous West Ridge, without
supplementary oxygen and in winter. Tasker's epic account vividly
describes experiences that no climber had previously endured. Close
up and personal, it is a gripping account of day-to-day life on
expedition and of the struggle to live at high altitude. Joe Tasker
was one of Britain's best mountaineers. He was a pioneer of
lightweight, alpine-style climbing in the Greater Ranges and had a
special talent for writing. He died, along with his friend Peter
Boardman, high on Everest in 1982 while attempting a new and
unclimbed line. Both men were superb mountaineers and talented
writers.
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Ascent (Paperback)
Chris Bonington
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BRITAIN'S GREATEST CLIMBER. 'He is the David Attenborough of
mountaineering . . . Bonington's most personal memoir yet.' The
Times. 'This is a compelling tale of fortitude and endurance.' -
The Sunday Times 'He is the icon of British climbing.' The Daily
Mirror Sir Chris Bonington memoir Ascent will chart not only his
many triumphs in the climbing world - such as the Eiger, and the
Himalaya - but also the struggles he has faced in his life bringing
up a family, and maintaining a successful and loving marriage over
the decades of travelling the world to conquer mountains. He has
undertaken nineteen Himalayan expeditions, including four to Mount
Everest which he climbed in 1985 at the age of fifty, and has made
many first ascents in the Alps and greater ranges of the world.
Along the way we will be fascinated by his many daring climbs,
near-death adventures, and the many luminaries of the mountain
fraternity he has climbed with, and in some cases - witness their
deaths on the rock. The mercurial Dougal Haston; the
legendary-tough Don Whillans, the philosopher of the rock Stephen
Venables, and the enigmatic Doug Scott, plus many more - this will
be an expert's opinion on the past sixty years of British/ world
mountaineering. In Ascent Chris also discusses his first wife
(Wendy) who tragically passed away after a long battle with motor
neuron disease - his many years of caring for her, and then in his
twilight years deciding to return to an iconic climb from his past
- The Old Man of Hoy - to summit at the age of 80 years of age. He
has now also found love again amidst the sadness and grief. It is a
truly inspirational tale. Ascent will be a memoir like no other.
Not only a cerebral narrative on what it takes to conquer fear, and
learn/ develop the technical skills necessary to climb the world's
greatest peaks; what it is like to survive in places no human being
can ultimately reside in for longer than a few months at very high
altitude, but also how one overcomes emotional obstacles, too, and
rediscover what drives us on to happiness.
This hillwalking and photo-location guidebook features stunning
mountain photography that provides inspiration and motivation, as
well as being studies in composition and light to learn from.
Included are chapters on mountain safety and equipment, planning a
day in the mountains, wild camping, photography technique and
equipment, and where to stay, eat and drink. As a bonus Nick
describes his mountain life, his hillwalking companions and his
inspirations such as the legendary mountain photographer, W. A.
Poucher. With a foreword by Sir Chris Bonington Snowdonia is one of
the most accessible mountain areas in the UK and photographer Nick
Livesey knows it better than most. Having lived in the heart of
Snowdonia for the last five years, Nick walks these hills and
mountains with his camera most days. In Photographing The Snowdonia
Mountains, Nick shares his knowledge guiding us around the best
mountain walks, short walks and roadside locations for mountain
photography. Fifteen of the best mountain walks for photography in
Snowdonia are described by route descriptions and detailed
contoured maps, along with photographic advice for each walk. Also
described are ten roadside locations and short walks that have the
best mountain views for those who don't want a full day out or
don't want to walk far, also included are true roadside locations
for those who are less mobile.
'It was Kongur that dominated everything, and was the focus of our
gaze and aspirations.' So thought Chris Bonington upon the Chinese
Mountaineering Association's decision to open many of Tibet and
China's mountains to foreigners in the 1980s. Not only did this
mean that Kongur, China's 7,719-metre peak, was available to climb,
but that those choosing to do so would be among the first to set
foot there. It was an opportunity too good to miss. For the planned
alpine-style ascent of this daunting peak, Bonington assembled a
formidable team, including Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker, Al Rouse and
expedition leader Michael Ward. Their reconnaissance and 1981
expedition brought opportunity for discovery and obstacles in equal
measure: they were able to explore areas that had eluded westerners
since Eric Shipton's role as British Consul General in Kashgar in
the 1940s; but appalling weather, unplanned bivouacs and tensions
characterised their quest for the ever-elusive route to the summit.
Featuring diary extracts and recollections from each team member,
this account not only captures the gripping detail of the ascent
attempts, but also the ebb and flow of the relationships between
the remarkable mountaineers involved. Add to this the pioneering
medical work on high-altitude illnesses conducted by the four-man
medical team, and the result is a book which captures a unique
moment in mountaineering history. Written with the cheer and
eloquence typical of Chris Bonington, Kongur captures the essence
of adventure and exploration that brings readers back to his books
time and time again.
For Chris Bonington and Charles Clarke, long-time friends and
expedition partners, few mountains were more alluring than Sepu
Kangri. Known locally as 'the Great White Snow God', Tibet's nearly
7,000-metre mountain had never before been visited by Westerners.
Armed only with a tourist map for reference, the two set off for
this elusive peak in 1996. In the reconnaissance and two
expeditions that followed, neither of them were expecting to be
profoundly impacted by their experiences. However, they not only
met their match in Sepu Kangri, but both found their expertise
pushed to the limit. While Clarke acted as a travelling doctor,
treating myriad ailments encountered along the way, including a
life-saving diagnosis of an ectopic pregnancy, Bonington's love of
technology saw him testing out cutting-edge satellite phones and
computers, allowing them to communicate with the outside world for
the first time on an expedition. Tibet's Secret Mountain is a story
of discovery as much as it is an account of the expeditions, and it
is this that sets it apart from other mountaineering memoirs. The
focus not only on the climbing itself, but the experiences, people
and tensions that accompany it, offers a poignancy that anyone with
a love of adventure will identify with. Beautifully written and
full of unfailing cheer, Tibet's Secret Mountain is Bonington and
Clarke's love letter to mountaineering.
When leading mountaineer Sir Chris Bonington was researching Quest
for Adventure, his study of post-war adventure, he contacted Sir
Robin Knox-Johnston, the first person to sail single-handed and
non-stop around the world, for an interview. This simple request
turned into an exchange of skills, which then grew into a joint
expedition to Greenland's unexplored Lemon Mountains. Sea, Ice and
Rock is the story of this epic journey. With both Bonington and
Knox-Johnston having little experience in the other's craft, their
expedition was not without difficulty. But through one another's
support, the two men and their team sailed from Britain to
Greenland, going on to twice attempt the Lemon Mountain's
forbidding highest peak, the Cathedral. Though their attempts ended
in a dramatic descent, this could not dampen the unfailing optimism
with which the two approached their task. They recount their
experiences not only with appreciation for the awe-inspiring nature
that surrounded them, but also for one another. Layers of alternate
narration between Bonington and Knox-Johnston make this a truly
collaborative memoir. In the same way they exchanged skills on
their expedition, the two authors rely on one another's
recollections to fill the gaps in their own. Full of ambition and
perseverance, anyone wondering why Bonington and Knox-Johnston are
masters in their fields need only read Sea, Ice and Rock.
The North Face of the Eiger was long notorious as the most
dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had claimed the lives
of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams - one German,
the other British-American - aimed to climb it by a new direct
route. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each
other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The
race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British-American team and
intended to make an Alpine-style dash for the summit as soon as
weather conditions allowed. The Germans, with an eight-man team,
planned a relentless Himalayan-style ascent, whatever the weather.
The authors were key participants as the dramatic events unfolded.
Award-winning writer Peter Gillman, then twenty-three, was
reporting for the Telegraph, talking to the climbers by radio and
watching their monumental struggles from telescopes at the Kleine
Scheidegg hotel. Renowned Scottish climber Dougal Haston was a
member of Harlin's team, forging the way up crucial pitches on the
storm-battered mountain. Chris Bonington began as official
photographer but then played a vital role in the ascent. Eiger
Direct, first published in 1966, is a story of risk and resilience
as the climbers face storms, frostbite and tragedy in their quest
to reach the summit. This edition features a new introduction by
Peter Gillman.
Quest for Adventure is a collection of stories written by Sir Chris
Bonington looking at the adventurous impulse which has driven men
and women to achieve the impossible in the face of Earth’s
elements: crossing its oceans, deserts and poles; canoeing its
rivers; climbing its mountains, and descending into its caves.
Bonington selects seventeen of the most thrilling expeditions and
adventures of the mid-late twentieth century, uncovering the common
thread that drives men and women to achieve the impossible.
Following a new preface, he charts such outstanding achievements as
Thor Heyerdahl’s Kon-Tiki voyage across the Pacific Ocean;
Francis Chichester’s round-the-world tour in his boat Gipsy Moth
IV; the race for the first non-stop circumnavigation of the globe
under sail; and Ice Bird’s sail around Antarctica. Away from the
ocean, the travels of one of the world’s most outstanding desert
explorers, Wilfred Thesiger, are detailed, journeying through what
is menacingly called the Empty Quarter. Bonington returns to
familiar ground as he writes about some exceptional mountain
adventures, including the 1970 ascent of the South Face of
Annapurna; Hillary and Tenzing’s first ascent of Everest;
Reinhold and Gunther Messner on Nanga Parbat; Andy Cave’s triumph
and tragedy on Changabang; and the Warren-Harding-led first ascent
of The Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite. Wally Herbert’s team
crossing of the Arctic Ocean and the equally gruelling
Fuchs/Hillary crossing of Antarctica are written about in detail.
More recent adventures include the race to make the first
circumnavigation of the globe by balloon – a high-stakes race
with a high-profile cast, including Richard Branson and Steve
Fossett. Quest for Adventure concludes with an account of the cave
diving epic the Dead Man’s Handshake, leaving the reader with a
chill in their spine and an appreciation for the natural wonders
below the Earth’s surface. Bonington’s eloquent writing on a
subject in which he is a passionate authority makes for a highly
engrossing read for adventurers and armchair explorers alike.
Sir Chris Bonington is a household name as a result of his
distinguished mountaineering career during which he has lead
pioneering expeditions to the summits of some of the most stunning
mountains in the world. The Everest Years shares the story of his
relationship with the highest and most sought-after peak on the
planet, Everest, and his ultimate fulfilment upon finally summiting
in 1985 at age fifty. Bonington chronicles four expeditions to the
Himalaya and Everest, including the 1975 South-West Face expedition
on which he was leader and on which Doug Scott and Dougal Haston
became the first Britons to summit the mountain. Bonington also
recounts expeditions to K2 and The Ogre (Baintha Brakk) in the
Karakoram, and Kongur, in China, describing passionately each
attempt: the logistics, glory, and tragedy, seeking to explain his
perpetual fascination with the highest points on earth, despite
repeatedly enduring the trauma of losing friends, and often placing
huge responsibility upon anxious loved ones left at home. The
Everest Years reveals Bonington's love and appreciation for his
ever-supportive wife Wendy, the loyal Sherpas, the companions
sharing his mountain memories including Doug Scott, Dougal Haston,
Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker and Mo Anthoine, and of course the
glorious peaks of the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges.
Following I Chose to Climb and The Next Horizon, this final
instalment of Bonington's autobiography will take you through a
huge spectrum of brutally honest emotions and majestic landscapes.
The Next Horizon, the second volume in Chris Bonington's
autobiography after I Chose to Climb, picks up his story from 1962
and relates his subsequent adventures as a mountaineer,
photographer, journalist and expedition leader alongside eminent
climbers including Doug Scott and Don Whillans, throughout an
extraordinary decade of adversity, thrill and discovery. The book
opens with a journey to Chile to climb the Central Tower of Paine.
Bonington then recounts his ascents across the globe; from the Old
Man of Hoy in Scotland, the Eiger in Switzerland, to Sangay in
Ecuador to name but a few. He concludes in the summer of 1972 with
preparations for his ambitious autumn Everest expedition. This
revealing narrative of Chris Bonington's experiences provides an
insight into the charismatic generation of climbing personalities
with whom he travelled, as well as his development into the
celebrity we know today.
The story of the Snowdonia National Park and the Society, dedicated
to conserving and enhancing its unique landscape, is one which will
fascinate and inform those who live and work within it as well as
being of interest to visitors, be they picnickers or sightseers or
committed hill walkers, climbers, canoeists and mountain bikers.
This book commemorates the fortieth anniversary of the Snowdonia
Society and is a record of its sometimes turbulent history and the
ever-changing but still inspiring landscape of the National Park.
Created in 1951, the Snowdonia National Park is a landscape of
rugged grandeur, great natural diversity and cultural associations
going back thousands of years. The vision of its founders was that
this very special region should be protected from harmful
development for all time. From the beginning, however, there were
problems? Out of these difficulties grew the idea of an independent
society dedicated to conserving and enhancing the landscape. Today
the Snowdonia Society has a membership of over 2,500 and has a
close working relationship with both the Snowdonia National Park
Authority and the Council for National Parks. This lively narrative
chronicles the story of the Snowdonia Society ? its successes and
failures, its internal conflict and the personalities involved ? as
well as discussing the wider issues which have affected this unique
landscape over the last forty years. This lavishly illustrated book
will appeal to anyone who loves the rugged landscape of Snowdonia,
published in dual language text of English and Welsh.
Chris Bonington Mountaineer is a photographic autobiography,
documenting over sixty years of climbing the world's most beautiful
and challenging mountains. Few climbers can match Bonington's
climbing achievements. He is one of the most accomplished and
respected climbers in the world. In this 2016 revised edition,
which features over 500 photographs, we are given a frank
perspective into the surreal, majestic and occasionally tragic
corners of his incredible mountaineering career. Whether in the
Arctic, the jungle or on an 8,000-metre peak, Bonington's stunning
photography and engaging conversational prose take us through the
detail of daily life on expedition, the action of the climbing and
the grandeur of the mountains. From his foundations - climbing in
Snowdonia, the English Lake District, and the Highlands of Scotland
- Bonington takes us to the Alps and on his expedition
apprenticeship in 1960s Nepal. This quickly leads to trips to
Patagonia, the Karakoram, the Amazon, Baffin Island and the River
Nile, before the meat of his career on the big walls and
8,000-metre peaks of the Himalaya - with his leadership of the
expeditions that made the first ascents of the south face of
Annapurna in 1970 and the south-west face of Everest in 1975, and
culminating in his own ascent of Everest in 1985. The greatest
challenge and survival story of all is his first ascent and epic
descent of The Ogre in Pakistan with Doug Scott. Bonington's
undying hunger for adventure leads to later exploratory trips to
Greenland, India and Morocco, and a return to the scene of one of
his defining first ascents, the Old Man of Hoy, with world-class
adventure climber Leo Houlding. The result is a penetrating insight
into the motivations and fears of a driven climber who set out year
after year from a life of comfort and success to test himself
amongst the world's most savage mountains. Chris Bonington
Mountaineer is a must for anyone with a passion for exploration,
mountains or climbing.
On Thin Ice is Mick Fowler's second set of climbing memoirs,
following Vertical Pleasure. Here, the celebrated mountaineer
records his expeditions since 1990 where, despite work and family
commitments, he maintained a regular series of 'big trips' to
challenging objectives around the world with a sequence of major
successes. The combination of exotic travel with major climbs
provides the ultimate adrenalin-soaked holiday experience that Mick
Fowler has mastered to the full. We are transported from the cliffs
of Jordan to remote peaks in deepest Asia via Taweche and
Changabang in the Himalaya, with jaunts to the Andes and Alaska
thrown in for good measure. That Fowler has organised this routine
for years, while holding down a conventional nine-to-five job with
the Inland Revenue, has constantly amazed his peers. In this, his
second book, he has also mastered the skills of amusing
travel-writing to entertain us as a preliminary to the finale of a
titanic struggle on each of his fiendishly demanding climbs. His
ascent of Siguniang in 2002, with Paul Ramsden featured hard ice
climbing on a fabulous face in deepest China and was so admired by
the international climbing community that it won the US Golden
Piton and the French Piolets d'Or, both awards given for the finest
alpine achievements in the world during that year. Fowler describes
his travels in the great traditions, with engaging modesty and wit,
but the climbs themselves are frequently so dramatic that the
anxiety and tension forces its way to the surface to be matched by
a corresponding relief and triumph when success and safe descent is
achieved.
'To those who went to the War straight from school and survived it,
the problem of what to do afterwards was peculiarly difficult.' For
H.W. 'Bill' Tilman, the solution lay in Africa: in gold
prospecting, mountaineering and a 3,000-mile bicycle ride across
the continent. Tilman was one of the greatest adventurers of his
time, a pioneering climber and sailor who held exploration above
all else. He made first ascents throughout the Himalaya, attempted
Mount Everest, and sailed into the Arctic Circle. For Tilman, the
goal was always to explore, to see new places, to discover rather
than conquer. First published in 1937, Snow on the Equator
chronicles Tilman's early adventures; his transition from East
African coffee planter to famed mountaineer. After World War I,
Tilman left for Africa, where he grew coffee, prospected for gold
and met Eric Shipton, the two beginning their famed mountaineering
partnership, traversing Mount Kenya and climbing Kilimanjaro and
Ruwenzori. Tilman eventually left Africa in typically adventurous
style via a 3,000-mile solo bicycle ride across the continent - all
recounted here in splendidly funny style. Tilman is one of the
greatest of all travel writers. His books are well-informed and
keenly observed, concerned with places and people as much as
summits and achievements. They are full of humour and anecdotes and
are frequently hilarious. He is part of the great British tradition
of comic writing and there is nobody else quite like him.
The early climbing years of Britain's greatest living mountaineer,
from his schooldays to his ascent of the Eiger in 1962. I CHOSE TO
CLIMB, first published in 1966, was Chris Bonington's first book.
He was recognised then, as now, as one of the outstanding members
of a brilliant generation of mountaineers, which included such
personalities as Hamish MacInnes, Don Whillans and Ian Clough. Here
he describes his climbing beginnings as a teenager as well as
successful ascents all over the world: the first ascent of the
Central Pillar of Freney, the first British ascent of the North
Face of the Eiger in 1962, Annapurna II in 1960 and in an unhappy
expedition in 1961, Nuptse, the third peak of Everest. The first
volume of Chris Bonington's autobiography is written with a warmth
and enthusiasm that he has made his own. It tells of his climbing
tastes and practice, and of family, friends and partnerships
cemented over many years.
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