Mountaintops have long been seen as sacred places, home to gods and
dreams. In one climbing year Peter Boardman visited three very
different sacred mountains. He began in the New Year, on the South
Face of the Carstensz Pyramid in New Guinea. This shark's fin of
steep limestone walls and sweeping glaciers is the highest point
between the Andes and the Himalaya, and one of the most
inaccessible, rising above thick jungle inhabited by warring Stone
Age tribes. During the spring Boardman was on more familiar, if
hardly more reassuring, ground, making a four-man, oxygen-free
attempt on the world's third highest peak, Kangchenjunga.
Hurricane-force winds beat back their first two bids on the
unclimbed North Ridge, but they eventually stood within feet of the
summit - leaving the final few yards untrodden in deference to the
inhabiting deity. In October, he was back in the Himalaya and
climbing the mountain most sacred to the Sherpas: the twin-summited
Gauri Sankar. Renowned for its technical difficulty and spectacular
profile, it is aptly dubbed the Eiger of the Himalaya and
Boardman's first ascent of the South Summit took a committing and
gruelling twenty-three days. Three sacred mountains, three very
different expeditions, all superbly captured by Boardman in Sacred
Summits, his second book, first published shortly after his death
in 1982. Combining the excitement of extreme climbing with acute
observation of life in the mountains, this is an amusing, dramatic,
poignant and thought-provoking book, amply fulfilling the promise
of Boardman's first title, The Shining Mountain, for which he won
the John Llewellyn Rhys Prize in 1979.
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