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For hundreds of years, skilled craftspeople in the Syrian centers
of Aleppo, Damascus, and Homs produced intricately woven textiles
for the royal courts, worldly merchants, and elite Bedouin families
of the Ottoman Empire. City dwellers were renowned for wearing
brightly colored silk garments that glittered with gold and silver
threads. By contrast, nomadic Bedouins wore woolen garments in hues
and designs reflecting their desert lifestyle. The allure of these
garments stems from the technical virtuosity with which they were
woven and the aesthetic beauty of their drape and stylized designs.
Dressed with Distinction offers a window onto the history of
textile production in the Middle East during the late nineteenth
and early twentieth centuries, until political and social changes
led to the dominance of Western-style commercially manufactured
attire. In addition to articulating the social and seasonal
contexts in which the garments were worn, this book examines the
styles of dress of women, men, and children in Ottoman Syria,
including cloaks (abaya), head coverings (hatta), women's body
coverings (carsaf), and jackets (qumbas).
Timor has been a divided island at least since the seventeenth
century when Dutch and Portuguese colonial empires competed for its
control. Despite this fragmentation, the weaving of cloth has
remained intimately linked to the cultural history of the Timorese
peoples as a whole. Handwoven cotton garments serve as markers of
identity and nurture social relationships when they are exchanged.
Women in Timor weave an impressive variety of cloth, routinely
combining more weaving techniques than any other region of
Southeast Asia. This technical prowess and diversity of design make
weaving the most important form of artistic expression in Timor and
allow groups as small as individual families to proclaim their
unique heritage. Independence for Timor-Leste (East Timor) in 2002
- following invasion by Indonesia and years of violent warfare
(1975-1999) - brought with it more stable conditions and improved
access for researchers. Textiles of Timor, Island in the Woven Sea
brings together for the first time woven works from all parts of
the island, demonstrating that the textile arts form a common
foundation uniting Timor's diverse peoples despite the painful
history of the country's division.
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