This book can be read through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

This book is available open access through the Bloomsbury Open Access programme and is available on www.bloomsburycollections.com. It is funded by Knowledge Unlatched. The historiography of the Great War has been significantly renewed in recent years; yet, despite its crucial social, economic, and cultural importance, the role that fashion played in shaping wartime experiences and economies on an international scale between 1914 and 1918 has largely gone unaddressed. Fashion, Society, and the First World War fills this gap by offering a comprehensive analysis of the impact of the war on the ways that the fashion industry functioned in a global wartime economy, as well as on the ways that women and men negotiated this new world. With an international, thematic approach, and illustrated in full color throughout, this volume discusses the reconfiguration of the fashion industry, wartime style and production, and the reframing of selfhood, gender roles, and national identity through visual, print and material culture. Through analysis of archives, visual chronicles, press, and garments, and covering an impressive range of topics, from the feathered showgirl in Paris to the evolution of pilots' uniforms, these exciting essays show how fashion, even temporarily, encouraged the articulation of an identity, a society, and a nation. Fashion, Society, and the First World War provides an extensive overview by leading fashion historians on an industry in the midst of major transformation and is both an invaluable guide and starting point for all researchers, curators, and students interested in fashion history and the cultural history of the period.

Vogue Paris has always been so much more than a fashion magazine. It has assumed a central and vital role on the international cultural stage, with a history that spans the most inventive decades in fashion and taste, and in the arts and society. It has acted as a cultural bellwether, putting fashion in the context of the larger world in which we live and mirroring its times – the postwar renaissance of Paris and haute couture, the New Wave, the radical seventies, the glamorous eighties. As it enters its second century, it remains at the cutting edge of photography and design. Published to mark the magazine’s centenary, this book celebrates Vogue Paris’s history from its first issue in 1920 to its current incarnation with Emmanuelle Alt at the helm. On its pages are creations by some of the greatest artists of their era, whether distinguished illustrators such as Lepape, Gruau and Benito, or photographers such as Man Ray, Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin and Mario Testino. Here, too, are iconic faces: Catherine Deneuve, Audrey Hepburn, Brigitte Bardot, Kate Moss and more. And of course, it showcases the fashion designers who defined the century – Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent, McQueen – and explores more broadly the changing mores of the past hundred years.