Learn how to make ethical decisions on a daily basis. This second edition of Ethics in the Fashion Industry continues to document the relationships between functions in the fashion industry and the people who make these functions happen. Covering topics such as corporate social responsibility, social media, social compliance audits, diversity, and human rights, this book empowers students who will soon become fashion professionals to make good decisions. Whether debating issues like factory conditions, fair wages, fast fashions, or designer knock-offs, shoplifting, and controversial advertising, Ethics in the Fashion Industry gives you the tools to do the right thing. New to this Edition: Box Features: In each chapter you will find three key boxes that call your attention to current ethical practices. Ethics in the Industry highlights relevant industry practices relating to ethics; Ethics in the News analyzes recent reporting on ethics; and Ethics in Practice profiles present industry professionals' and fashion scholars' work in the context of the chapter's topic. Case Studies: Each chapter ends with two Case Studies that facilitate exploration of current and relevant industry activities into the knowledge-building process, allowing students to think critically on scenarios that may present themselves in the course of their careers. New Insights: The responsibility that millennials, Gen Xers, and Gen Nexters have in positioning not only the fashion industry, but the planet itself, for a healthy future cannot go unobserved. This second edition includes new insights about generational behaviors and perspectives in making ethical decisions, in addition to the role that consumers play in shaping fashion industry decisions. Ethics in the Fashion Industry STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of the work of these three key designers. It outlines their major contributions and the subsequent impact that their work has had upon the next generation of fashion and textile designers around the world. Designers discussed include: Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Naoki Takizawa, Dai Fujiwara, Junya Watanabe, Tao Kurihara, Jun Takahashi, Yoshiki Hishinuma, Junichi Arai, Reiko Sudo & the Nuno Corporation, Makiko Minagawa, Hiroshi Matsushita, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk Bikkembergs, Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Helmut Lang.

It is no coincidence that the garment industry gained a foothold in Pennsylvania's hard-coal region as mines were closing or reducing operations. "Runaway" factories, especially ones from Manhattan, set up shop in mining towns where labor was plentiful and unions scarce. By the 1930s, garment factories employed thousands of wives and daughters of unemployed or underemployed coal miners in the Wyoming Valley. Organizing workers would prove difficult for the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union (ILGWU).

Fighting for the Union Label tells the story of how workers in the Wyoming Valley, led by Min Lurye Matheson and her husband, Bill, banded together and built one of the largest and most activist movements of garment workers in the ILGWU's vast network. Workers' education, political activism, a health care center, and a widely recognized chorus were among the union's trademarks. Despite the union's influence, however, the apparel industry migrated to the American South and then overseas in the 1970s and 1980s. Tens of thousands of workers throughout the state and nation would loose their jobs, and sweatshops would become part of the economic landscape in countries like Guatemala.

The first major work on the garment industry and its workers in Pennsylvania, Fighting for the Union Label draws extensively upon the Wyoming Valley Oral History Project (co-directed by Ken and Robert Wolensky) which has collected the reminiscences of more than 325 workers, factory owners, public officials, and others. The story of the dynamic Min Matheson and the rise and fall of the garment industry provides key insights into the deindustrialization of northeastern Pennsylvania.

Fashion knockoffs are everywhere. Even in the out-of-the-way markets of highland Guatemala, fake branded clothes offer a cheap, stylish alternative for people who cannot afford high-priced originals. Fashion companies have taken notice, ensuring that international trade agreements include stronger intellectual property protections to prevent brand "piracy." In Regulating Style, Kedron Thomas approaches the fashion industry from the perspective of indigenous Maya people who make and sell knockoffs, asking why they copy and wear popular brands, how they interact with legal frameworks and state institutions that criminalize their livelihood, and what is really at stake for fashion companies in the global regulation of style.

"My life is a constant battle between vanity and laziness. This book has brokered the perfect peace deal!" - Graham Norton Should I tint my eyebrows? How can I get a squarer jawline? Which style of trouser would make my legs look longer? Leading lifestyle columnist and magazine editor, Jeremy Langmead, has men constantly asking him for answers to these questions and more. In Vain Glorious, he teams up with Harley Street aesthetic doctor David Jack to lift the lid on all the anti-ageing and beauty secrets now available for men, from Botox to hair thickening treatments. Dr Jack provides the medical expertise, whilst Langmead test-drives the products and procedures on offer - sharing often hilarious snapshots of his own hit-and-miss journey of rejuvenation, as well as sartorial tricks and insider tips from his time editing Esquire and running the men's fashion website mrporter.com. Vain Glorious is an honest and practical guide to help men feel comfortable in their own skin.

The global beauty business permeates our lives, influencing how we perceive ourselves and what it is to be beautiful. The brands and firms which have shaped this industry, such as Avon, Coty, Estee Lauder, L'Oreal, and Shiseido, have imagined beauty for us.
This book provides the first authoritative history of the global beauty industry from its emergence in the nineteenth century to the present day, exploring how today's global giants grew. It shows how successive generations of entrepreneurs built brands which shaped perceptions of beauty, and the business organizations needed to market them. They democratized access to beauty products, once the privilege of elites, but they also defined the gender and ethnic borders of beauty, and its association with a handful of cities, notably Paris and later New York. The result was a homogenization of beauty ideals throughout the world.
Today globalization is changing the beauty industry again; its impact can be seen in a range of competing strategies. Global brands have swept into China, Russia, and India, but at the same time, these brands are having to respond to a far greater diversity of cultures and lifestyles as new markets are opened up worldwide.
In the twenty first century, beauty is again being re-imagined anew.

Turkey has witnessed remarkable sociocultural change under the regime of Recep Tayyip Erdogan and his Justice and Development Party (AKP), particularly regarding its religious communities. As individuals with pious identities have increasingly gained access to state power and accumulated economic influence, so religious appearances and practices have become more visible in Turkey's `secular' public spaces. More than this, consumption practices have changed and new Islamic and Islamist identities have emerged. This book investigates three of the most widespread faith-inspired communities in Turkey: the Gulen, Suleymanli and the Menzil. Nazli Alimen compares these communities, looking at their diverse interpretations of Islamic rules related to the body and dress, and how these different groups compete for power and control in Turkey. In tracing what motivates consumption practices, the book adds to the growing interest in the commercial aspects of modest and Islamic fashion. It also highlights the importance of clothing and bodily rituals (such as veiling, grooming and food choices) for the formation of community identities. Based on ethnographic research, Alimen analyses the relationship between the marketplace and religion, and shows how different communities interact with each other and state institutions. Of particular note are the varied expressions of Islamic masculinities and femininities at play. Appealing to a cross-disciplinary readership, the book will be relevant for scholars within Turkish Studies, Gender Studies, Islamic Studies, Fashion, Consumption Studies, Sociology of Religion and Middle Eastern Studies.

How One Man Invented a Color That Changed the World

"Garfield's engaging story of William Perkin's accidental discovery is an informative mix of science, history, and biography."—Boston Herald

In 1856 eighteen-year-old English chemist William Perkin accidentally discovered a way to mass-produce color. In a "witty, erudite, and entertaining" (Esquire) style, Simon Garfield explains how the experimental mishap that produced an odd shade of purple revolutionized fashion, as well as industrial applications of chemistry research. Occasionally honored in certain colleges and chemistry clubs, Perkin until now has been a forgotten man. 8 pages of color illustrations.

"By bringing Perkin into the open and documenting his life and work, Garfield has done a service to history."—Chicago Tribune

"[A]n inviting cocktail of Perkin biography, account of the dye industry and where it led, and social and cultural history up to the present."—American Scientist

"Garfield leaps gracefully back and forth in time, as comfortable in the Victorian past as he is in the brave new world of petrochemicals and biochemistry."—Kirkus Reviews starred review.

"[T]he delight of this book is seeing parallels to present-day trends."—"New York Times Book Review

Looking through the lens of black business history, "Beauty Shop Politics" shows how black beauticians in the Jim Crow era parlayed their economic independence and access to a public community space into platforms for activism. Tiffany M. Gill argues that the beauty industry played a crucial role in the creation of the modern black female identity and that the seemingly frivolous space of a beauty salon actually has stimulated social, political, and economic change.

From the founding of the National Negro Business League in 1900 and onward, African Americans have embraced the entrepreneurial spirit by starting their own businesses, but black women's forays into the business world were overshadowed by those of black men. With a broad scope that encompasses the role of gossip in salons, ethnic beauty products, and the social meanings of African American hair textures, Gill shows how African American beauty entrepreneurs built and sustained a vibrant culture of activism in beauty salons and schools. Enhanced by lucid portrayals of black beauticians and drawing on archival research and oral histories, "Beauty Shop Politics" conveys the everyday operations and rich culture of black beauty salons as well as their role in building community.

Marketing Fashion Footwear addresses the strategic issues surrounding the marketing and distribution of footwear, including brand identity, consumer behavior, production and manufacturing, and the impact of globalization and regional trends. Detailed case studies explore the evolving retail and e-tail landscape while industry perspective interviews focus on the issues faced by designers, brands and retailers. You'll also learn the critical success factors for brand longevity, the scope of marketing communications, and the channels used to reach key opinion leaders and consumers. Beautifully illustrated with examples from some of the world's most influential footwear designers and retailers, this is the ultimate guide to a multi-billion dollar industry. Featured contributors: Margaret Briffa, Briffa Marc Debieux, Cheaney & Sons Jason Fulton, This Memento Marc Goodman, Giancarlo Ricci Simon Jobson, Dr. Martens Tracey Neuls Tricia Salcido, Soft Star Shoes John Saunders, British Footwear Association Joanne Stoker Mary Stuart, mo Brog

An inspirational yet practical guide to clothes, shopping more effectively and discovering and developing a strong sense of personal style. With modern, minimal page design and four-colour photography throughout, this pragmatic and practical book should be required reading for anyone familiar with staring at a closet full of clothes and still feeling like they don't have anything to wear. 'This chic, thoughtful book is full of genius methods for taking control of your look, your habits, your budget, and your wardrobe.' -- Alison Freer, author of How to Get Dressed 'A smart, straightforward manual that encourages readers to discover what they like and to develop a wardrobe that makes getting dressed easier.' -- Erin Boyle, author of Simple Matters 'I loved this book. I've been trying for years to put together a capsule wardrobe...' -- ***** Reader review 'If you want a well organised wardrobe then this is your book!' -- ***** Reader review 'A wonderful, engaging and practical guide' -- ***** Reader review 'The best style book ever' -- ***** Reader review 'Legitimately changed my life (and bank balance) !!!' -- ***** Reader review *********************************************************************************************************** Get the wardrobe you've always wanted, filled with only those pieces that you love to put on and that make you look and feel amazing. Berlin-based style blogger Anuschka Rees will change your attitude and approach to clothes and shopping with her new minimal method. She rejects the cliched fashion rules and instead encourages you to look in your wardrobe and at your life, as well as in the mirror. Using interactive prompts, infographic-style questionnaires and helpful check lists, all beautifully illustrated with photography and mood boards, create your own individual style guidelines that truly speak to you. A must-have guide that will help you shop in a more cost-effective and efficient way and discover and develop a strong sense of personal style.

The third edition of Complete Guide to Size Specification and Technical Design equips students with everything they need to know about measuring sample garments, creating fully graded spec sheets, fitting garments, and grading patterns for production. Over 500 technical flats are clearly labeled with measurement points and instructions for taking measurements. The book includes spec sheets for different types of garments and industry forms explained within the context of the production process. An entire section is devoted to correcting fitting issues with pattern alterations and grade rules for both number and letter sizing. The accompanying downloadable templates and forms allow readers to develop their own private label specification sheets and improve their technical design skills. New to this Edition -Features instructions on measuring the human body -Introduces PLM/PDM software such as Gerber, lectra, and Optitex in Chapter 2 -Includes expanded information on fitting and grading -Provides new fashion flats and body figure croquis and a metric conversion chart in updated appendices -New Chapter 16 on children's wear includes step-by-step illustrated instructions for new points of measure * New section on computer-aided technical design including coverage of PLM/PDM software such as Gerber, Lectra, and Optitex * New chapter on childrenswear with points of measure (POM) and grading information * Added instructions on measuring the human body * Expanded information on fitting and grading * Updated appendices with new fashion flats and body figure croquis and a metric conversion chart STUDIO Resources * Watch videos that bring chapter concepts to life * Download templates, blank and sample spec sheets, basic garment and figure croquis to practice technical design skills * Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips * Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary * Access useful resources such as a Care Labeling Guide, Ordering a Body Form Guide and a Buttonline Card Instructor Resources * Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom * Learning with STUDIO Student Registration Guide and a First Day of Class PowerPoint presentation

Beginning with Alexander McQueen’s infamous attempt to live stream his 2009 Plato’s Atlantis collection on SHOWStudio, this book traces how digital and social media have disrupted social structures within the field of fashion, and transformed the way it is communicated and consumed. Analysing key case studies, from Chanel, Givenchy, Yeezy and Opening Cermony to interactive social media and ‘see now buy now’ campaigns from Burberry, Topshop and Tommy Hilfiger, The Fashion Show Goes Live analyses the mode and impact of fashion shows’ transmission. Through the rise of experimental film, fashion shows tailored for media transmission and the use of live streaming and social media to render shows ‘immediate’ to consumers, fashion weeks – and fashion shows – have become not just trend barometers but material sites that demonstrate media’s effects. Rebecca Halliday evaluates the performativity of consumer relations to such live streams and other mediatized content. In linking these relations back to fashion show footage, she demonstrates that although intended to communicate fashion to mass audiences, these practices also promote it as exclusive and aspirational. Despite democratized, international access to content, the shows themselves remain elite events; kindling new forms of consumer attention, interaction, immaterial labour and desire. Through the microcosm of the fashion show, The Fashion Show Goes Live asks broader socio-political questions about the effects of the fashion industry's mediatization, challenging the notion that new technology has fostered inclusivity.

When Edward Enninful became first Black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, few at the heights of the elitist world of fashion wanted to confront how it failed to represent the world we live in. But Edward, a champion of inclusion throughout his life, rapidly changed that.

From a childhood in Ghana amid riotous colour and strong Black women, to being discovered by a fashion editor on the London Underground at the age of sixteen, to taking the helm of Britain's most influential fashion publication, A Visible Man traces an astonishing journey into one of the world's most exclusive industries. Taking us into the heady, wild and vibrant fashion scene of 1980s London and beyond, Edward details how as a Black, gay, working-class refugee, he found in fashion not only a home, but the freedom to share with people the world as he saw it – and to tell the story of the times we're in.

Now, whether it's putting first responders, octogenarians or civil rights activists on the cover of Vogue, or championing designers and photographers of colour, Edward Enninful has cemented his status as one of the world's most important change-makers. And he's just getting started.

Written with style, grace and heart, this is the story of a visionary who has changed how we understand beauty.

What if fashion was a state? What kind of state would it be? Probably not a democracy. Otto von Busch sees fashion as a totalitarian state, with a population all too eager to enact the decrees of its aesthetic superiority. Peers police each other and deploy acts of judgment, peer-regulation, and micro-violence to uphold the aesthetic order of fashion supremacy. Using four design projects as tools for inquiry, Von Busch explores the seductive desires of envy and violence within fashion drawing on political theories. He proposes that the violent conflicts of fashion happen not only in arid cotton fields or collapsing factories, but in the everyday practice of getting dressed, in the judgments, sneers, and rejections of others. Indeed, he suggests that feelings of inclusion and adoration are what make us feel the pleasure of being fashionable-of being seductive, popular, and powerful. Exploring the conflicting emotions associated with fashion, Von Busch argues that while the current state of fashion is bred out of fear, The Psychopolitics of Fashion can offer constructive modes of mitigation and resistance. Through projects that actively work towards disarming the violent practices of dress, Von Busch suggests paths towards a more engaging and meaningful experience of fashion he calls "deep fashion."

In 2005, British supermodel Kate Moss went to Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend, indie rocker Pete Doherty. Their unwashed appearance captured widespread attention, propelling the British indie music scene and its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-to the center of popular fashion. Using this fashionable watershed as a launching point, Fashioning Indie narrates indie's evolution: from a 1980s British music subculture into a 21st-century international fashion phenomenon. It explores the lucrative transformation of indie style, first into high concept menswear and later into "festival fashion"-a womenswear phenomenon that remade what indie looked like and provided a launching point to reimagine who the ideal subject of indie could be. Fashioning Indie is essential reading for academic and popular audiences, offering an original account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system. As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, the book offers also essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.

The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender, ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology, society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and art and design practice and theory.

An item of jewellery is traditionally thought of as an ornament and decoration, a useless object, with no particular function or use, an embellishment that has no practical purpose. This book investigates the evolution of functional jewellery from the past to present day, while the three prestigious introductory articles by Alba Cappellieri, Paola Venturelli and Elisabeth Fischer show how jewellery has always played a functional role, especially in regard to clothing, throughout the ages. The various functions of jewellery are then defined by the projects of young international designers, finalists in the Next Jeneration Jewellery Talent Contest, in an exhibition under the curatorship of Susanna Testa. Functional Jewellery is a valuable tool for understanding the complexity and beauty of jewellery, even in ordinary, everyday gestures, like pinning the edges of a cape, buttoning a coat, styling hair or protecting nail varnish. Text in English and Italian.

The Beatles' hair changed the world. As their increasingly wild, untamed manes grew, to the horror of parents everywhere, they set off a cultural revolution as the most tangible symbol of the Sixties' psychedelic dream of peace, love and playful rebellion. In the midst of this epochal change was Leslie Cavendish, hairdresser to the Beatles and some of the greatest stars of the music and entertainment industry. But just how did a fifteen-year-old Jewish school dropout from an undistinguished North London suburb, with no particular artistic talent or show business connections, end up literally at the cutting edge of Sixties' fashion in just four years? His story - honest, always entertaining and inspiring - parallels the meteoric rise of the Beatles themselves, and is no less astounding.