Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Interest in contemporary cultural industries has grown in the past decade, as they take on a greater significance in our increasingly consumer-led society. Focusing on the world of fashion photography, this book presents an interdisciplinary approach in which this and other aesthetic markets, such as advertising, modelling, art, music and more, can be viewed. The main thrust of this groundbreaking book, is in developing a theory for these cultural markets, characterized by insecurity, and where status and aesthetic diversity generate order and price differentiation. In these industries, services and products are offered that are a mix of the aesthetic and the economic, and for fashion photographers such as those studied here, it is necessary to carefully position themselves in the market by developing unique photographic styles and separating themselves from competitors. Yet the markets in which these industries operate differ from the type of exchange markets depicted by neoclassical economists, and therefore cannot be considered using such modes of analysis. Instead Aspers conducts his study using empirical phenomenology, an original approach presented here for the first time, which can be easily used in other empirical studies. He draws on original empirical material; participant observation and interviews generated in New York and Stockholm; which bring a depth of analysis and a relevance to this book which academics, researchers and those with a vested interest in such industries will value. Written by one of the world's brightest young economic sociologists, this fascinating book (previously published in Sweden and enthusiastically received) is endorsed by recognized industry authorities. A noteworthy book, it provides a foothold in the burgeoning sub discipline of economic sociology, and a significant analysis of the economics of the fashion photography industry.

Fashion ephemera-from catalogues and invitations to press releases-have long been overlooked by the fashion industry and fashion academics. Fashion Remains redresses the balance, putting these objects centre stage and focusing on the wider creative practice of contemporary fashion designers, photographers, graphic designers, make-up artists, and many more. Fashion ephemera are considered not as disposable promotional devices, but as windows into hidden networks of collaboration and value creation in the fashion system. Taking an interdisciplinary approach, Fashion Remains explores the unseen and privately circulated fashion ephemera produced by today's most prominent international fashion designers such as Margiela, Yamamoto, and Raf Simons. Showcasing a unique archive of materials, it focuses on Antwerp's avant-garde fashion scene and reveals the potential of these ephemeral objects to evoke and call into question material and immaterial knowledge about the fashion industry's actors, practices and ideologies.

Before her star turns on The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency and America's Next Top Model, the stunning, exotic brunette Janice Dickinson broke the long chain of All-American blondes to become the world's first supermodel, gracing the covers of "Vogue", "Cosmopolitan", and many other major magazines. In this unadulterated memoir, she tells her incredible story, filled with dizzying highs and lows - from the cruelty and abuse of her childhood to the money, power, and fame of her stardom; from her glory days with Gia Carangi and Christie Brinkley to nights with Warren Beatty, Jack Nicholson, and Sylvester Stallone; from a dizzying drug and alcohol habit to three failed marriages; from cavorting around the globe to struggling to make it in Los Angeles as a working mum. Following her precarious ascent to stardom, her notorious fall from grace, and her triumphant journey to recovery, this captivating and cautionary tale reveals the smart, passionate woman beneath the glossy photos-and strips bare the business that made her a legend.

The history of clothing begins with the origin of man, and fashionable dress can be traced as far back as 25,000 years ago. Recent scientific explorations have uncovered graves in northern Russia with skeletons covered in beads made of mammoth ivory that once adorned clothing made of animal skin. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans each made major contributions to fashion's legacy from their textile innovations, unique clothing designs and their early use of accessories, cosmetics, and jewelry. During the Middle Ages, "fashion trends" emerged as trade and commerce thrived allowing the merchant class to afford to emulate the fashions worn by royals. However, it is widely believed that fashion didn't became an industry until the industrial and commercial revolution during the latter part of the 18th century. Since then, the industry has grown exponentially. Today, fashion is one of the biggest businesses in the world, with hundreds of billions of dollars in turnover and employing tens of millions of workers. It is both a profession, an industry, and in the eyes of many, an art. The A to Z of the Fashion Industry examines the origins and history of this billion-dollar industry. This is done through a chronology, an introductory essay, a bibliography, and hundreds of cross-referenced entries on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations.

Fashion is all around us: we see it, we buy it, we read about it, but most people know little about fashion as a business. Veronica Manlow considers the broader signifi cance of fashion in society, the creative process of fashion design, and how fashion unfolds in an organizational context where design is conceived and executed. To get a true insider's perspective, she became an intern at fashion giant Tommy Hilfi ger. Th ere, she observed and recorded how a business's culture is built on a brand that is linked to the charisma and style of its leader.

Fashion firms are not just in the business of selling clothing along with a variety of sidelines. Th ese companies must also sell a larger concept around which people can identify and distinguish themselves from others. Manlow defi nes the four main tasks of a fashion fi rm as creation of an image, translation of that image into a product, presentation of the product, and selling the product. Each of these processes is interrelated and each requires the eff orts of a variety of specialists, who are often in distant locations. Manlow shows how the design and presentation of fashion is infl uenced by changes in society, both cultural and economic. Information about past sales and reception of items, as well as projective research informs design, manufacturing, sales, distribution, and marketing decisions.

Manlow offers a comprehensive view of the ways in which creative decisions are made, leading up to the creation of actual styles. She helps to defi ne the contribution fashion fi rms make in upholding, challenging, or redefi ning the social order. Readers will fi nd this a fascinating examination of an industry that is quite visible, but little understood.

The term 'tailored' has changed as methods of manufacture and the retailing of clothes have evolved. This book demonstrates the wide range of cutting methods used to produce garments which are described as 'tailored' jackets. Although the main focus is on modern methods of producing clothing, a rich and complex cutting tradition is acknowledged and used. It is hoped that the modern garment designer will be inspired to rediscover methods that retain their validity today.

The different approaches to 'tailored' cutting are described under three headings: bespoke cutting, engineered cutting and style cutting. The rich heritage of the latter came from the tremendous creativity that was unleashed by women's emancipation at the beginning of the twentieth century and the merging of tailored styles with fashionable clothing. The section on style cutting has therefore derived some of the cutting techniques from that period, thus demonstrating how they can be applied to current methods of production.

Learn how to develop, launch and build a successful fashion brand with this definitive textbook which explores the realities of the contemporary fashion industry. Fashion Brand Management is a complete guide to operating a fashion business in a multi-trillion revenue industry. Written by a leading innovator in the space, it describes how to gain competitive advantage, meaningfully embrace sustainability and purpose and successfully market to and engage consumers. Balancing theory with practical applications throughout, it also explores the key business models and financial management processes used in the industry and how fashion brands can build entrepreneurial advantage. Exploring the key challenges and opportunities for today's fashion businesses both large and small, Fashion Brand Management examines supply chain disruption, social selling and technological innovations including the metaverse, digital collections and blockchain. Featuring case studies from a range of innovative global brands including Ecoalf, MWHQ, Pala Eyewear and Unhidden, in-text features include learning objectives, key terms and activities. With supporting online resources consisting of lecture slides, self-test questions, group activities and worksheets, this is an essential resource for fashion students.

Originally published in 1999 The Commercial Use of Biodiversity examines how biodiversity and the genetic material it contains are now as valuable resources. Access to genetic resources and their commercial development involve a wide range of parties such as conservation and research institutes, local communities, government agencies and companies. Equitable partnerships are not only crucial to conservation and economic development but are also in the interests of business and often required by law. In this authoritative and comprehensive volume, the authors explain the provisions of the Convention on Biological Diversity on access and benefit-sharing, the effect of national laws to implement these, and aspects of typical contracts for the transfer of materials. They provide a unique sector-by-sector analysis of how genetic resources are used, the scientific, technological and regulatory trends and the different markets in Pharmaceuticals, Botanical Medicines, Crop Development, Horticulture, Crop Protection, Biotechnology (in fields other than healthcare and agriculture) and Personal Care and Cosmetics Products. This will be an essential sourcebook for all those in the commercial chain, from raw material collection to product discovery, development and marketing, for governments and policy-makers drafting laws on access and for all the institutions, communities and individuals involved in the conservation, use, study and commercialisation of genetic resources.

In Dressing Long Hair Book 2, Patrick Cameron introduces 15 new long-hair styles. Following on from his worldwide bestseller, Dressing Long Hair, Patrick Cameron builds on his successful step-by-step formula to offer professionals and students new styles which will give them that extra edge in the fashion stakes of dressing long hair, from fun and funky styles to timeless elegance. This instructional step-by-step guide is presented in an innovative new format. Fold out pages on a wire binding enable the reader to follow the progression of each style via a series of at-a-glance sequential photographs, without having to turn the page. As the text uses hundreds of sequential photographs to illustrate the new styles, it is suitable for use in any language. However, the minimal text is also translated into French, German, Spanish, Italian, Chinese and Japanese. As this book is hardback, it will prove extremely durable and an excellent salon reference or practical college text.

Enter the glamorous domain of world-famous jewellery house, Harry Winston, and discover the true rags-to-riches story of the immigrant family behind the phenomenon. Harry Winston’s famous slogan for his success was: “knowledge, courage, and the ability to finance.” King of Diamonds: The Flawless World of Harry Winston is the quintessential rags-to-riches success story of a very poor immigrant family emigrating from Ukraine to America. It is the story of how one man, Harry Winston, created a famous name with his company, founded in New York City in 1932. Winston became known for the owning and sales of very large diamonds. At one point, he owned a third of the world’s most famous gems, including the Hope Diamond, which earned him the moniker “King of Diamonds.” The book details how author Ronald Winston’s father got his start and began what would eventually become the most famous jewellery house in the world. Peek inside his first office, an upstairs Fifth Ave location, followed by subsequent locations in Rockefeller Centre, an office across from St. Patrick's Cathedral, and finally an image-building store on Fifth Avenue. Known as the “Jewelleer to the Stars,” Winston’s gems have appeared both on the Hollywood red carpet and in famous Hollywood films like Notorious starring Ingrid Bergman and Cary Grant, The Graduate starring Dustin Hoffman and Anne Bancroft, and How to Lose a Guy in 10 Days starring Kate Hudson and Matthew McConaughey. Celebrities such as Marilyn Monroe, Viola Davis, Helen Mirren, Gwyneth Paltrow, and many more have worn Winston pieces on Hollywood’s biggest nights. The story then follows Harry Winston’s successor and heir, Ronald Winston, and his making of the family name. Under Ronald, the company’s name would not remain just famous, but would become world-famous. Ronald built locations in Los Angeles, Hawaii, Japan, and China. Ronald’s saga continued with his entry into the revolution in Angola, buying diamonds from its charismatic leader, Jonas Savimbi. Ronald Winston risked his life in order to make profits that repaid the death taxes caused by his father’s passing. In all, King of Diamonds is a joyous evocation of two men who added an innumerable amount to the image, story, and marketing of luxury products, as well as to the joy of people who love and purchase these objects. After all, as frequent Winston jewellery-wearer Marilyn Monroe would say, “diamonds are a girl’s best friend.”

Contents:
Acknowledgements List of illustrations Prologue Section One: Fur Nation 1. My Fur Ladies (The Fabric of a Nation) 2. Princes, Bear Boys, and Beaver Men (Tales from the Beaver Clubs) Section Two: Beavers 3. The eyes of June Sauer (For a Sexual economy of fur fashion photography) 4. My Fur Lady, Canada's Liberty Section Three: Bardots 5. BB and her Beasts 6. Venus Forever (The Next Fur Generation) Endnotes Bibliography

Fur Nation traces the interwoven relationships between sexuality, national identity, and colonialism. Chantal Nadeau shows how Canada, a white settler colony, bases its existence and its nationhood on a complex sexual economy based on women wrapped in fur.
Nadeau traces the centrality of fur through a series of intriguing case studies, including:
* Hollywood's take on the 330 year history of the Hudson Bay Company, founded to exploit Canada's rich fur resources
* the life of a postwar fur fashion photographer
* a 1950s musical called Fur Lady
* the battle between Brigitte Bardot's anti-fur activists and the fur industry.
Nadeau highlights the connection between 'fur ladies' - women wearing, exploiting or promoting furs - and the beaver, symbol of Canada and nature's master builder. She shows how, in postcolonial Canada, the nation is sexualised around female reproduction and fur, which is both a crucial factor in economic development, and a powerful symbol through which the nation itself is conceived and commodified. Fur Nation demonstrates that, for Canada, fur really is the fabric of a nation.

Here, leading historians explore how our ideas of what is attractive are influenced by a broad range of social and economic factors. They force us to reckon with the ways that beauty has been made, bought and sold in modern America by looking at examples such as:
* the sexual dynamics of bathing suits
* the deeper meanings of corsets
* the social role of the African American hair salon.

For Level 1 Hairdressing students on NVQ, SVQ and VRQ courses. A genuinely new and innovative way for students to study hairdressing, this new textbook is supported with extensive multimedia material and activities at no extra cost. Some books include a few videos and basic materials, but this title comes with over 100 free online resources and activity screens with which to improve learning. Online questions are also included as well as links to other resources such as images, animations and videos. The elearning resources are included in every chapter to complement the textbook content and will help students from the start of their qualification until they pass their final exams.

Series Information:
Garland Studies in Entrepreneurship

First Published in 2000. Routledge is an imprint of Taylor & Francis, an informa company.

Master the skills and knowledge you need to succeed in the new Level 2 Diploma for Hair Professionals. Endorsed by City & Guilds as a quality resource supporting their new qualifications, this textbook is focused on the practical skills needed for your course. Written specifically for apprentices taking the new Hair Professional Standards, this book will be your guide as you work through your Apprenticeship and prepare for your end-point assessment. Packed with numerous step-by-step photos to demonstrate all Hair Professional techniques, for hairdressers and barbers Inspires you with photographs and illustrations of the latest styles and techniques Helps prepare you for the synoptic assessments with Test Your Knowledge questions and Practical Assignments at the end of each chapter, designed to test knowledge and understanding and help you to refine your practical skills Identifies opportunities for you to improve Maths and English skills throughout the course Provides industry know-how as the author shares her knowledge and experience with Handy Hints and suggests helpful activities throughout Inspires you to be the best you can be with Industry Insight profiles of successful hair professionals for every chapter Covers all mandatory units, plus the 'Perming hair' optional unit, with the two further optional units available online: oHair relaxing treatments and techniques oHair extension services

* Covers nine of the most popular manadatory and optional units across VRQs and NVQs so learners can be confident that they have covered the required knowledge for their chosen course. * Coverage of generic units, such as Health and Safety, the context of nails making the knowledge and theory relevant to the learners' chosen nail course. * Colourful design packed with glossy step-by-step photos and case studies to really inspire and motivate learners. * The learning activities and assessment guidance with the book help learners check their knowledge and prepare for assessment.

A revealing, no-holds-barred portrait of the legendary Eileen Ford-the entrepreneur who transformed the business of modeling and helped invent the celebrity supermodel. Working with her husband, Jerry, Eileen Ford created the twentieth century's largest and most successful modeling agency, representing some of the fashion world's most famous names-Suzy Parker, Carmen Dell'Orefice, Lauren Hutton, Rene Russo, Christie Brinkley, Jerry Hall, Christy Turlington, and Naomi Campbell. Her relentless ambition turned the business of modeling into one of the most glamorous and desired professions, helping to convert her stable of beautiful faces into millionaire superstars. Model Woman chronicles the Ford Modeling Agency's meteoric rise to the top of the fashion and beauty business, and paints a vibrant portrait of the uncompromising woman at its helm in all her glittering, tyrannical brilliance. Outspoken and controversial, Ford was never afraid to offend in defense of her stringent standards. When she chose, she could deliver hauteur in the grand tradition of fashion's battle-axes, from Coco Chanel to Diana Vreeland-just ask John Casablancas or Janice Dickinson. But she was also a shrewd businesswoman with a keen eye for talent and a passion for serving her clients. Drawing on more than four years of intensive interviews with Ford and her intimates, associates, and rivals, as well as exclusive access to agency documents and memorabilia, Robert Lacey weaves an unforgettable tale of a determined entrepreneur and the empire she built-a story of beauty, ambition, business, and popular culture as powerful and complex as the woman at its center.

Lymph drainage massage is a technique utilized by massage therapists to provide relief from edema, an accumulation of fluids in the tissues that causes swelling. This book provides a scientifically-accurate explanation of the lymphatic system, the theory behind lymph drainage massage, and explains when it should be performed. Also provided is an explanation of the application of lymph drainage massage to the needs of well clients, rather than focusing on pathology, since most massage therapists and estheticians will not be treating lymph edema disease in their work. The book offers step-by-step procedures for facial and upper and lower body massage, giving you practical information that can be applied immediately. With an aging baby boomer generation and the population at large increasingly focused on well-being, technicians - whether beginners or those looking to review and broaden their skills - are increasingly interested in learning about lymph drainage massage and how it can enhance their clients' experience as well as their own careers. Milady's Guide to Lymph Drainage Massage can play a vital role in accomplishing all of these goals.

A classic in its field since its original publication, The Technique of the Professional Make-Up Artist is now revised, updated and paperback for a new generation of professionals. This encyclopedic resource covers all of the current studio make-up methods and lab techniques, with text and art contributions from some of the leading experts in the industry. The author explains clearly and precisely the differing approaches to stage-lit, audience-attended television taping; studio-lit, no-audience taping; live television with natural outdoor lighting; live stage make-up ; and the innumerable techniques and methods of film make-up. In addition to detailing the basic, day-to-day 'paint and powder' procedures that are the bulk of any professional make-up artist's work. He also describes exciting new visual effects that can be achieved using puppetry, digital computing, and electronic coloration. Included in this paperback edition are: * Revised make-up charts for men and women * New special effects make-up photographs * New information on contact lenses and dental work * Updated information on film types * Revised appendices. Vincent J R Kehoe has been working in the professional make-up field since 1940. He has been in charge of make-up for more than 3000 major television, film, and stage productions, and was head of the make-up departments for CBS-TV in New York and the NBC Hallmark Hall of Fame series. His previous books include Special Make-Up Effects (Focal Press), The Technique of Film and Television Make-Up, and Photographic Make-Up for Stills and Movies, and he has written several articles on advanced make-up research for the Journal of the Society of Motion Picture and Television Engineers (SMPTE). As president and director of the Research Council of Make-Up Artists since 1963, Mr Kehoe designed and produced the entire Color Process line of RMCA Professional Products. He lives in Somis, CA.

The Workbook for Milady Spanish-Translated Standard Foundations contains detailed interactive exercises and exam review questions designed to reinforce learning and increase student comprehension but also to prepare students taking their licensing exam. The workbook aligns to the contents of Milady Spanish-Translated Standard Foundations.

Energizing and bold, this major revision of Silent Selling: Best Practices and Effective Strategies in Visual Merchandising, 6th Edition, invites students to embrace a big picture view of the retail design industry. They will study global events and innovations with current multimedia resources in neuroscience and business, hand-picked by author Judy Bell. Her pioneering work with color palettes and her look-compare-innovate process will pave the way to sales-driving strategies. Students will be equipped to face the future with real world wisdom from industry leaders, and will be encouraged to create their own signature style. New to This Edition -The book opens with wisdom from philosophers like Aristotle and psychologists like Eric Fromm along with four Creative Wizards, active in the retail design industry today, offering guidance and inspiration. -Two new features: Neuroscience Pop-Ups! explore the science behind visual merchandising and Designers' Pet Peeves examine common pitfalls in display designs. -Twelve new or revised international Design Gallery showcases, Shoptalk features, and Case Studies, with award-winning design firms and top retailers. -Introduction to today's elements of the metaverse employed in visual merchandising through artificial intelligence, augmented reality, and robotics. -A system of Signage Hierarchy is introduced to provide a framework for strategically positioning signs in the retail store environment. -Over sixty new photographs present innovative concepts from around the globe. Silent Selling STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions Instructor Resources -Instructor's Guide with Test Bank provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom -PowerPoint® presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion

Achieve professional quality hair results with this full-color, comprehensive book from award-winning hair and makeup pros, Gretchen Davis and Yvette Rivas. In The Hair Stylist Handbook: Techniques for Film and Television, you'll learn how to create that sought-after "complete look" by learning the newest hair techniques that are in demand on film and television sets. Learn how to break into the industry, what products to use to achieve specific effects, how to maintain a look throughout the day, what quick techniques to use to achieve certain textures, and much more. With input from hairstylist Yvette Rivas, this step-by-step guide makes complex techniques clear, allowing you to achieve the most coveted results. In this informative handbook you will find: An extensive chapter on men's grooming techniques and hair products Specific techniques for dramatic and long lasting hair color Lists of the best hair tools and instructions for how to use them to achieve different looks Information about how production schedules, cast, and crew are all affected and influenced by the hair and makeup team Details on how to run a successful and organized hair and makeup trailer on set Whether you are a professional in the field, or a student looking to break in to the industry, this book will provide you with secrets and information that you cannot find anywhere else.