Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts and that there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not being lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male. Despite all the medical and media attention focused on the rate of overweight and obesity in the African American population, African American images and body types are greatly influencing changes in the fashion, fitness, advertising, television, and movie industries. This is because overweight, like beauty, can be in the eye of the beholder. Most research studies investigating attitudes about body image and body type among African Americans have shown they are more satisfied with their bodies than are their white counterparts. Most black women, for example, are of course concerned with how they look, but do not judge themselves in terms of their weight and do not believe they are valued mostly on the basis of their bodies. Black teen girls most often say being thick and curvaceous with large hips and ample thighs is seen as the most desirable body shape. Thus, there appears to be a wider range of acceptable body shapes and weights, and a more flexible standard of attractiveness, among black Americans as compared to whites. That fact is not lost on leaders of industries that might profit from understanding this wider range of beauty, as well as playing to it. Voluptuous supermodel Tyra Banks is just one African American who's broken the mold in that industry. The effects have been seen right down to department and local clothes stores, where lines of larger and plus-size fashions are expanding, becoming more colorful and more ornate. In the fitness industry, health gurus Madonna Grimes and Billy Blanks have been revolutionizing how people get fit and how fitness needs to be redeveloped for the African American population. Advertising has taken a similar turn, not the least manifestation of which were the major campaigns Dove and Nike ran in 2005 with plus-sized actresses (who continue to appear in promotions for both companies). In movies and on television shows, the African American beautiful body image has followed suit. In this book, medical anthropologist Eric Bailey introduces and explains the self-acceptance and body image satisfaction of African Americans, and traces how that has spurred changes in industry. His book fills the void of scientific evidence to enhance the understanding of African Americans' perceptions related to body image and beauty-and is the first to document these issues from the perspective of an African American male.

'Haute couture is like an orchestra, whose conductor is Balenciaga. We other couturiers are the musicians and we follow the direction he gives' - Christian Dior The godfather of conceptual design, a master of shape, a true fashion game changer - all are accolades bestowed upon one of the most interesting, venerated and iconic couturiers of the twentieth century: Cristobal Balenciaga. His pureness of line, the comfort of his garments and innovative work with textiles, colour and volume made a huge impact on twentieth-century fashion, with creations such as the babydoll, balloon and sack dresses still influencing fashion today. Through stunning images and captivating text, Little Book of Balenciaga depicts the work and life of Balenciaga the couturier. Fashion historian Emmanuelle Dirix examines his legacy both through tracing the Maison's artistic direction after his death, and the generations of designers influenced by the master himself.

This contributed volume captures some of the most current topics and trends in the fashion industry. It provides a theoretical and empirical analysis of the behaviour of firms in this fast-moving industry with a focus on their resources, capabilities and routines around communication and sustainability strategies in an international context. It covers hot topics such as the role of social media, sustainability, and luxury as well as brief mention on how the Covid-19 pandemic will impact fashion brands. With contributions from practitioners and academics, this book provides an overview of the debates, analysis and best practices, making it an invaluable resource for anyone studying or researching the fashion industry, branding, or luxury.

Changing trends in fashion have always reflected large-scale social and cultural changes. Changing Fashion presents for the first time a multi-disciplinary approach to examining fashion change, bringing together theory from fashion studies, cultural studies, sociology, psychology and art history, amongst others. Ideal for the undergraduate student of fashion and cultural studies, the book has a wide range of contemporary and historical case material which provides practical examples of trend analysis and change, from the art deco textile designs of Sonia Delaunay to the chameleonic shifts in Bob Dylan's appearance over time. Key issues in fashion and identity, such as race, gender and consumption are examined from different disciplinary angles to provide a critical overview of the field. Changing Fashion provides a concise guide to the main theories across disciplines that explain how and why media, clothing styles, and cultural practices fall in and out of fashion.

This book serves as a comprehensive guide to understanding the theories and applications in managing the Asian fashion supply chain, presenting both quantitative and exploratory studies. Providing academicians and practitioners insights into the latest developments and models, it also offers diverse perspectives on areas like strategic sourcing, quick response strategies, and other essential parts of the supply chain.

This is a rags-to-riches story about a man who came from a Greek village, born to a father with three years' schooling and an illiterate mother, whose down-to-earth Greek values formed the foundation of an entrepreneur who went on to build a multi-million-dollar fashion empire. Today, Panos Emporio is one of the most established luxury swimwear brands in the world, being the choice of celebrities and royal families amongst others. Panos Papadopoulos created this empire in his new country of Sweden in record time, introducing the winning combination of innovative design, skillful entrepreneurship and ground-breaking marketing, which elevated the brand to its world-leading position. Panos' life as an entrepreneur is a tale of passion and total commitment. In telling his story, he also provides success lessons and valuable advice to other entrepreneurs, that can be applied to sectors beyond fashion.

This book provides a critical overview of technologies that are used within the fashion industry and supply chain, with a special emphasis on how they engender sustainability and the circular economy. The chapters present contemporary case studies alongside new research on technologies such as 3D printing, 3D scanning and recycling technology to assess the effect they will have on the future of fashion and its global supply chain.

Covers all mandatory units and four of the five option units so learners can be confident they have covered the required knowledge for their qualification. Colourful design packed with glossy new step-by-step photos to really inspire and motivate learners. Make the most of your classroom time with lots of practical activities and questions to help learners check their knowledge and prepare for assessment. For your portfolio activities will provide opportunities for learners to generate evidence for their portfolios. A new Salon Life feature provides magazine-style coverage of key topics to capture the imagination of candidates and help them relate to what they are learning.

Written specially for the new Technical Certificate in Beauty Therapy, this book will provide your learners with everything they need to know to succeed in their studies. Complementing quality teaching, this textbook covers all the knowledge required for each unit, as well as illustrating practical skills with industry quality photographic illustrations. - Carefully matched to the requirements of the new qualification, this comprehensive textbook will provide you and your learners with all the guidance you need through this period of transition, in clear and accessible language. - Ensures learners can visualise all the necessary practical skills with over 1000 industry quality photographs. - Provides invaluable guidance on preparing for the new written exams and practical synoptic end test.

Providing a critical insight into the growth of the secondhand luxury and vintage fashion industry, this book offers a compendium of business developments from across the globe, including examples from Europe, the Middle East and Asia. The 'pre-loved or pre-owned' clothing trade has grown as an economic entity, providing a living for over 100,000 people and creating a desirable and essential clothing source in under-developed economies. By debating and deliberating contemporary cases, the authors illustrate how companies can optimise key managerial activities surrounding product branding, location marketing and supply chain buying. This timely collection is an important read for anyone involved in fashion, but particularly those interested in the retail and marketing perspective of the industry, as it explores an emerging and significant retail format.

This book provides an overview of current issues and challenges in the fashion industry and an update on data-driven artificial intelligence (AI) techniques and their potential implementation in response to those challenges. Each chapter starts off with an example of a data-driven AI technique on a particular sector of the fashion industry (design, manufacturing, supply or retailing), before moving on to illustrate its implementation in a real-world application

This book offers a cross-cultural comparison of French and British cosmetics advertisements and explores how the discourse of beauty advertising represents ideas about femininity in French and English language contexts. As the global beauty industry expands and consumers become more critical of the claims made, the topic of cosmetics advertising discourse is examined using Feminist Critical Discourse Analysis. One common theme underlying most cosmetics advertising discourse is that the female body always requires 'work' to fix its 'problems': flat skin, dry hair, and so on. The author uses themes of language and gender, media and identity, and advertising across cultures to expose exactly what is going on in the language of cosmetics advertising and to offer a first step towards challenging these ideas and thinking about alternatives.

'Fascinating' Sunday Times 'Deeply sourced and rich with anecdotes' The Times 'Like a nonfiction version of The Devil Wears Prada' Elizabeth Day 'Odell's extensive reporting dredges up a wealth of delightful details' New York Times This definitive biography of Anna Wintour chronicles the steep climb of an ambitious young woman who would, with singular and legendary focus, become the most powerful woman in media. As a child, Anna Wintour was a tomboy with no apparent interest in clothing but, seduced by the miniskirts and bob haircuts of swinging 1960s London, she grew into a fashion-obsessed teenager. Her father, the influential editor of the Evening Standard, loomed large in her life, and once he decided she should become editor in chief of Vogue, she never looked back. Impatient to start her career, she left high school and got a job at a fashionable boutique in London - an experience that would be the first of many defeats. Undeterred, she found work in the competitive world of magazines, eventually moving to New York. Before long, Anna's journey to Vogue became a battle to ascend, no matter who or what stood in her way. Once she was crowned editor in chief - in one of the stormiest transitions in fashion magazine history - she continued the fight to retain her enviable position, ultimately rising to dominate all of Conde Nast. Based on extensive interviews with Anna Wintour's closest friends and collaborators, including some of the biggest names in fashion, journalist Amy Odell has crafted the most revealing portrait of Wintour ever published. Weaving Anna's personal story into a larger narrative about the hierarchical dynamics of the fashion industry and the complex world of Conde Nast, Anna charts the relentless ambition of the woman who would become an icon.

This book explores new approaches and strategies that luxury fashion brands could adopt in their operations toward sustainability goals. It addresses the unique challenges faced by luxury fashion brands, given that concepts of luxury and sustainability may be conflicting. In doing so, it elaborates on how fashion brands need to manage their suppliers to comply with and improve social and environmental conditions, the pressure to fulfill the triple-bottom lines, consumer demands for transparency, and social media and its advantages in achieving sustainability goals. Exploring the notion that luxury fashion brands are in a better position to pursue superior sustainability performance, it presents research that highlights how the consequences of non-compliance could have more devastating effects on luxury brands than on mass-market brands. The book is a valuable resource for academics and practitioners in the field of business, sustainability, and fashion.

The fashion model's hold on popular consciousness is undeniable. How did models emerge as such powerful icons in modern consumer culture? This volume brings together cutting-edge articles on fashion models, examining modelling through race, class and gender, as well as its structure as an aesthetic marketplace within the global fashion economy. Essays include treatments of the history of fashion modelling, exploring how concerns about racial purity and the idealization of light skinned black women shaped the practice of modelling in its early years. Other essays examine how models have come to define femininity through consumer culture. While modelling's global nature is addressed throughout, chapters deal specifically with model markets in Australia and Tokyo, where nationalist concerns colour what is considered a pretty face. It also considers how models glamorize consumption through everyday activities, and neoliberal labour forms via reality TV. With commentaries from industry professionals who experienced the cultural juggernaut of the supermodels, the final essay situates their impact within the rise of brand culture and the globalization of fashion markets since 1990. Accessible and highly engaging, Fashioning Models is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and related disciplines.

This book investigates the success story of the fast fashion industry-mainly owned by Chinese migrants-in Prato, Italy. It outlines how Prato has become the center of a value chain stretching from suppliers in China and Turkey all the way to buyers in Europe. Despite this, a policy attacking Chinese entrepreneurship has been devised and implemented in Prato. This volume analyzes said policy against the crisis of Prato's textile industry. Based on the author's 15 years of fieldwork in Prato, the book sheds light on the entangled processes of city making and the restructuring processes linked to capital accumulation by tackling issues of governance, territory, migration, division of labor, labor mobility, housing, and human rights.

This fourth volume on detox fashion focuses on case studies, which are essential to showcase how practical applications have been accomplished, and provide an opportunity for others to (learn about and) adopt the best practices, challenges and practical implications. The book consists of three core chapters: Detoxifying the Supply Chain: Slow Production Networks in South-East European Garment Factories; Detoxifying the Luxury and Fashion Industry: The Case of Market-driving Brands; and Detox My Fashion under Mission 2020-Case Studies from Different Brands.

This first volume on detox fashion discusses various interesting topics including a Toxic-Free Supply Chain for Textiles and Clothing; Environmental Issues in Textiles; Global Regulations, Restrictions & Research; Making the Change: Consumer Adoption of Sustainable Fashion; and Strategies for Detoxing Your Wardrobe. It provides an overview of the chemical-related issues confronting the fashion sector, summarizes global regulations, and discusses how to make the change by changing consumers' attitude towards adopting sustainable fashion, as well as the best strategies for detoxing our wardrobes.

This book comprehensively covers the topic of sustainability in the clothing and fashion sector. Sustainability is applied under different industrial sectors and there has to be a distinction in every industrial sector when it comes to sustainability in its application. Though the definition is common for sustainability, sustainability in the clothing sector has its unique objectives, principles, and limitations, which this book highlights.

From consumer boycotts and buycotts to social movement campaigns, examples of individual and collective actors forging political struggles on markets are manifold. The clothing market has been a privileged site for such contention, with global clothing brands and retailers being targets of consumer mobilization for the past 20 years. Labels and product lines now attest for the ethical quality of clothes, which has, in turn, given rise to ethical fashion. The Fight for Ethical Fashion unveils the actors and processes that have driven this market transformation through a detailed study of the Europe-wide coordinated campaign on workers' rights in the global textile industry - the Clean Clothes Campaign. Drawing on insights from qualitative fieldwork using a wide range of empirical sources, Philip Balsiger traces the emergence of this campaign back to the rise of 'consumer campaigns' and shows how tactics were adapted to market contexts in order to have retailers adopt and monitor codes of conduct. By comparing the interactions between campaigners and their corporate targets in Switzerland and France (two countries with a very different history of consumer mobilization for political issues), this ground-breaking book also reveals how one campaign can provoke contrasting reactions and forms of market change.

Using various research methodologies, such as reviews, case studies, analytical modeling and empirical studies, this book investigates luxury fashion retail management and provides relevant insights, which are beneficial to both industrialists and academics. Readers gain an understanding of luxury fashion retailing, including proper operations and strategic management, which now are the most crucial items on the luxury fashion industry's senior management agenda.

From their heritage trenches and ubiquitous check to experimental red carpet looks, the House of Burberry is known worldwide for its covetable designs.

Sophisticated, simple, and quintessentially British, Burberry is beloved for its remarkable ability to straddle tradition and innovation. The allure of the 'Burberry Girls', like Cara Delevingne, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, epitomizes just what Burberry is about: aspiration, elegance and grace.

Featuring an exquisite range of photographs, from finished designs to close-up details and beautifully styled shots, this book pulls back the curtain on the story behind the brand. Touching on its humble beginnings in 1856, all the way up to its current designs, this invaluable reference is the definitive word on all things Burberry.

For two and a half years, Amanda Czerniawski was a sociologist turned plus-size model. Journeying into a world where, as a size 10, she was not considered an average body type, but rather, for the fashion industry, "plus-sized," Czerniawski studied the standards of work and image production in the plus-sized model industry. Fashioning Fat takes us through a model's day-to-day activities, first at open calls at modeling agencies and then through the fashion shows and photo shoots. Czerniawski also interviewed 35 plus-size models about their lives in the world of fashion, bringing to life the strange contradictions of being an object of non-idealized beauty. Fashioning Fat shows us that the mission of many of these models is to challenge our standards of beauty that privilege the thin body; they show us that fat can be sexy. Many plus-size models do often succeed in overcoming years of self-loathing and shame over their bodies, yet, as Czerniawski shows, these women are not the ones in charge of beauty's construction or dissemination. At the corporate level, the fashion industry perpetuates their objectification. Plus-size models must conform to an image created by fashion's tastemakers, as their bodies must fit within narrowly defined parameters of size and shape--an experience not too different from that of straight-sized models. Ultimately, plus-size models find that they are still molding their bodies to fit an image instead of molding an image of beauty to fit their bodies. A much-needed behind-the-scenes look at this growing industry, Fashioning Fat is a fascinating, unique, and important contribution to our understanding of beauty.

This is the first encyclopedia to focus exclusively on the many aspects of the American beauty industry, covering both its diverse origins and its global reach. The American Beauty Industry Encyclopedia is the first compilation to focus exclusively on this pervasive business, covering both its diverse origins and global reach. More than 100 entries were chosen specifically to illuminate the most iconic aspects of the industry's past and present, exploring the meaning of beauty practices and products, often while making analytical use of categories such as gender, race, sexuality, and stages of the lifecycle. Focusing primarily on the late-19th and 20th-century American beauty industry—an era of unprecedented expansion—the encyclopedia covers ancient practices and the latest trends and provides a historical examination of institutions, entrepreneurs, styles, and technological innovations. It covers, for example, the 1911 Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire, as well as how Asian women today are having muscle fiber removed from their calves to create a more "Western" look. Entries also explore how the industry reflects social movements and concerns that are inextricably bound to religion, feminism, the health and safety of consumers and workers, the treatment of animals, and environmental sustainability.

• Provides a comprehensive overview of luxury brand management from a sustainability perspective, using cases and examples to demonstrate how sustainability practices can be embedded into the product and applied to existing luxury brands. • Each chapter includes real life case studies from both well-known international brands and boutique luxury start-ups. • Designed as a core or recommended text for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate Luxury Fashion Management and Luxury Brand Management courses.