Fashion buying, a key component in fashion retailing, is second only to design as a career option for fashion graduates. The buyer has a central role in influencing what consumers choose to wear and in determining whether a fashion retailing company succeeds or fails. Buying is a multi-faceted job, which typically involves fashion forecasting, range-planning, garment sourcing and budgeting.
This comprehensive textbook describes the buying cycle, buying for stores and mail order and how to start a career in fashion buying. A glossary of buying terminology, as well as input from fashion buyers currently working for major companies, give a clear insight into this exciting and challenging role.
The new edition has been revised throughout, includes more emphasis on buying for the internet, and all the interviews have been updated or replaced.

This second volume in the Palgrave Studies in Practice: Global Fashion Management series focuses on core strategies of branding and communication of European luxury and premium brands. Brand is a critical asset many firms strive to establish, maintain, and grow. It is more so for fashion companies when consumers purchase styles, dreams and symbolic images through a brand. The volume starts with an introductory chapter that epitomizes the essence of fashion brand management with a particular emphasis on emerging branding practices, challenges and trends in the fashion industry. The subsequent five cases demonstrate how a family workshop from a small town can grow into a global luxury or premium brand within a relatively short amount of time. Scholars and practitioners in fashion, retail, branding, and international business will learn how companies can establish a strong brand identity through innovative strategies and management.

Someone once said, "There is nothing new under the sun only new ways to do things." This could be the anthem of the agencies that produced the advertisements shown in this exciting new book. Perfume magazine ads not only tell the story of the brand, they are on the resumA (c)s of many of the world's most famous fine artists. The images shown here represent great perfume houses at the height of their marketing prowess: Guerlain, Schiaparelli, Caron, Lentheric, Hattie Carnegie, Lanvin, Houbigant, and more. To make their brands unforgettable they hired the most creative talents available, including Andy Warhol, Dugo, Vladimir Bobrtsy (aka bobri), and fabulous photographers like Irving Penn and Edward Jacobson. These talents artists thrived in the fast paced, very lucrative perfume industry. For the perfume bottle collector, advertising historian, and those active in graphic arts, this beautiful book has over 370 magnificent images, in full color, that are responsible for the sale of millions of dollars worth of fragrance through the years.

The House of Chanel is synonymous with not one, but two, iconic designers. First there was Gabrielle, and then there was Karl.

Chanel is a house known for its signatures that not only changed the course of fashion history but still resonate today – the Little Black Dress, the tweed suit, costume jewellery, Chanel No5. These signatures were inspired by Gabrielle Chanel's taste, life experience and travels – but it was Karl Lagerfeld who took these signatures and ingeniously adapted them for the twenty-first century woman. From his first days at the helm of Chanel in the 1980s, to his creative application of the Chanel logo to everything from biker boots to a space rocket, King Karl's reign at Chanel is nothing if not legendary.

Little Book of Chanel by Lagerfeld covers his most exquisite pieces, breathtaking catwalk shows and constant reinvention that have maintained Chanel as the most illustrious couture house in the world. Written by the bestselling author of Little Book of Chanel, this beautifully illustrated book is the essential guide to Lagerfeld's tenure at Chanel.

The history of clothing begins with the origin of man, and fashionable dress can be traced as far back as 25,000 years ago. Recent scientific explorations have uncovered graves in northern Russia with skeletons covered in beads made of mammoth ivory that once adorned clothing made of animal skin. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans each made major contributions to fashion's legacy from their textile innovations, unique clothing designs and their early use of accessories, cosmetics, and jewelry. During the Middle Ages, "fashion trends" emerged as trade and commerce thrived allowing the merchant class to afford to emulate the fashions worn by royals. However, it is widely believed that fashion didn't became an industry until the industrial and commercial revolution during the latter part of the 18th century. Since then, the industry has grown exponentially. Today, fashion is one of the biggest businesses in the world, with hundreds of billions of dollars in turnover and employing tens of millions of workers. It is both a profession, an industry, and in the eyes of many, an art. The A to Z of the Fashion Industry examines the origins and history of this billion-dollar industry. This is done through a chronology, an introductory essay, a bibliography, and hundreds of cross-referenced entries on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations.

Boost your exam chances with this brand new workbook and revision guide, designed to improve and assess your knowledge of anatomy and physiology theory and how it applies to practical treatments. - Prepare for success with comprehensive coverage of anatomy and physiology by body system - Coach yourself with a variety of workbook activities for self-study - Test yourself with multiple-choice and exam-style questions - Combine your workbook with Helen McGuinness's bestselling Anatomy and Physiology textbook (sold separately) for the strongest anatomy and physiology support in your Beauty Therapy studies

First Published in 1990 Unpacking the Fashion Industry spotlights a side of the industry the consumer never sees. What is the fashion clothing industry really like? What lies behind the glamour of the cat-walks and the glossy magazines? Annie Phizacklea focuses on the small firm sector of fashionwear production, based predominantly on ethnic entrepreneurship and cheap female labour and analyses the complex interaction of gender, class and racism in this sector of the industry. This book is a must read for scholars and researchers of sociology, gender studies and social anthropology.

Strategic Fashion Management: Concepts, Models and Strategies for Competitive Advantage is a highly accessible book providing a unique look into the strategic drivers of the dynamic and ever-growing fashion industry. Derived from the knowledge gap in quality strategic fashion management literature, this book blends theory with a variety of examples and uses 18 case studies to help bring to life contemporary topics faced by senior executives. The analysis is highly global in nature and aims to accelerate the strategic skills required to navigate the industry and contribute to a firm's growth. Using copious examples from across the world, this book provides in-depth discourse and progressive theoretical concepts and strategies which readers will be able to apply immediately to their studies or practices. The book is particularly suitable for final-year undergraduate and postgraduate students studying fashion management or marketing, as well as those on MBA and international business courses who wish to understand more about the fashion ecosystem. It is also designed to serve as an important reference for executives who are interested in conceptualising strategic issues that are pertinent to the industry.

The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business. -- .

With photographs spanning Sam McKnight s entire career, this book is a dramatic anthology of looks from retro to androgynous, romantic to sexy, red to platinum all from the master hairstylist's deft hand. Featured are some of the most iconic images in popular culture Princess Diana s short, slicked- back style, Madonna s Bedtime Stories cover, Tilda Swinton channeling David Bowie, both Lady Gaga and her male alter-ego, Jo Calderone, plus countless editorial stories featuring the ultimate model for everywoman, Kate Moss, in myriad demonstrations of hairstyles. McKnight has won numerous awards and has worked with some of the top names in fashion Patrick Demarchelier, Nick Knight, and Mario Testino to name just a few. From ingenues to tomboys, from the girl next door to the Hollywood siren, the book is organized by theme and includes McKnight s informative commentary throughout. Richly illustrated, it features photo- graphs by leading fashion photographers and styles commissioned by Vivienne Westwood, Balmain, Chanel, and many others. A unique reference book that is at once a glamorous look through the past forty years of some of fashion s most memorable looks and a style bible for glorious locks.

This unique text offers a holistic, insightful and timely exploration of sustainable practices across the fashion industry. The book takes the reader logically through each part of the authors’ new Responsible 9 Framework™, providing a clear perspective and examples for each component. The framework thoroughly explains the move away from a singular product commercial focus to a Conscious Item approach and Circular Services business mindset. An organisation’s people are at the heart of the new framework and have therefore been rebranded as Community. Next addressed is the Perceived Value of an item or brand, and how sustainable pricing initiatives actively influence consumer purchase. Insights into Accountable Systems are reviewed to examine the importance of responsible processes when considering and integrating a successful, sustainable supply chain into a fashion business. The section on Governance looks at the different global organisations available to fashion brands and customers alike, which support their transition into a responsible and sustainable future existence. The last two sections of the framework are labelled Storytelling Platforms and Honest Communication, where transparent and honest strategies are highlighted and discussed from a viewpoint of how modern brands are engaging and connecting to the new conscious consumer. For each of the nine aspects, contemporary case studies from global brands such as Stella McCartney, Zalando and Arc'teryx, alongside insights from current, leading experts within the fashion world, bring the theory to life. Showing how sustainability has been integrated throughout the entirety of the fashion business, this textbook is perfect for advanced undergraduate and postgraduate students Fashion Management, Fashion Brand Management and Fashion Marketing, as well as reflective leaders and practitioners within the industry.

The Global Beauty Industry is an interdisciplinary text that uses beauty to explore topics of gender, race, class, colorism, nation, bodies, multiculturalism, transnationalism, and intersectionality. Integrating materials from a wide range of cultural and geo-political contexts, it coalesces with initiatives to produce more internationally relevant curricula in fields such as sociology, as well as cultural, women's/gender, media, and globalization studies.

Covers everything students need for the S/NVQ core and options units so it is the only book needed for the Make-up pathway of S/NVQ Level 3 Beauty Therapy. Full-colour step-by-step procedures and 'work in progress' drawings clearly show the processes candidates need to go through to create a range of different looks. Contains mapping showing how the book relates to VTCT, ITEC and BTEC Make-up qualifications. Written by Julia Conway, an experienced college lecturer and freelance practitioner with an excellent reputation in make-up artistry.

"A cut above most workplace histories. Looking at the separate but sometimes overlapping development of European and African-American hairdressing from the early twentieth century to the present, Willett shows how race shaped different trajectories for black and white salons."
--"Lingua Franca"

"Offers an unusually comprehensive look at a significant twentieth-century industry and female preoccupation"
--"American Historical Review"

"Refreshing to read a history so firmly historicized and grounded in working-class and Afro-American history"
-- "Journal of Social History"

"Carefully nuanced and [a] compelling history."
-- Nan Enstad, "The Journal of American History"

Throughout the twentieth century, beauty shops have been places where women could enjoy the company of other women, exchange information, and share secrets. The female equivalent of barbershops, they have been institutions vital to community formation and social change.

But while the beauty shop created community, it also reflected the racial segregation that has so profoundly shaped American society. Links between style, race, and identity were so intertwined that for much of the beauty shop's history, black and white hairdressing industries were largely separate entities with separate concerns. While African American hair-care workers embraced the chance to be independent from white control, negotiated the meanings of hair straightening, and joined in larger political struggles that challenged Jim Crow, white female hairdressers were embroiled in struggles over self-definition and opposition to their industry's emphasis on male achievement. Yet despite their differences, black and whitehairdressers shared common stakes as battles were waged over issues of work, skill, and professionalism unique to women's service work.

Permanent Waves traces the development of the American beauty shop, from its largely separate racial origins, through white recognition of the "ethnic market," to the present day.

This is a modern, practical guide on how to grow and make your own skincare products, no matter how big your garden. This handbook enables you to switch from toxic to nourishing skincare products that are better for you and the environment. Harness the therapeutic power of plants and natural ingredients to look after your skin - the body's largest organ - simply, gently and effectively. Chapter 1: An Introduction to the Skin - understanding what the skin is and how we take care of it; Chapter 2: Plotting My Skincare Garden: What to grow and how to arrange it; Chapter 3: Choosing Skincare Plants: The top 22 skincare plants to grow and forage for and their beneficial properties; Chapter 4: The natural skincare garden through the seasons: What to do to maintain your garden through the year and how to harvest and store your plants; Chapter 5: Basic formulations and 30 skincare recipes, including skincare teas cleanses, oils, creams and more; Sustainability - how to make a Natural Cleaning Spray and Botanical Household Soap. Silvana takes you on a holistic journey, guiding you through planting the seed in the soil to growing harvesting, storing, creating and bottling your home-made herbal skincare.

In The Responsible Fashion Company, Rinaldi and Testa argue that the fashion industry is at a crossroads: the need for a global shift to a sustainable model has never been more urgent. Yet, they demonstrate that we are witnessing a revolution led by conscious consumers and enlightened companies, who are redefining the rules of the fashion market. The question is: when will the rest of the industry catch up? Rinaldi and Testa raise a fundamental but often neglected issue in the fashion sustainability debate: long-term equilibrium can only be achieved by integrating economic goals with environmental, social and ethical values. "The Responsible Fashion Company" provides a clear overview of the theory, challenges and opportunities of sustainability in the industry and demonstrates how fashion companies can achieve competitive advantage through sustainable innovation. The authors show how leading fashion companies are challenging traditional thinking and present inspiring examples from pioneers such as Gucci, Levi's, Timberland and Brunello Cucinelli, who create quality products without leaving a negative impact behind. Refreshing and timely, The Responsible Fashion Company is essential reading for the socially conscious consumer and anyone with a professional or personal interest in the fashion, design and luxury industries.

The unauthorized biography of the world's most famous, seductive, and successful perfume.

With its rich golden hue, art deco–inspired bottle, and timeless, musky scent, Chanel No. 5 is the world's bestselling perfume. Reverently known among industry insiders as le monstre—the monster—it is arguably the most coveted consumer luxury product of the twentieth and twenty-first centuries. Yet how did this pioneering celebrity fragrance, introduced in the early 1920s, eventually take on a life of its own, becoming a cultural monument celebrated by millions of devoted consumers?

The Secret of Chanel No. 5 is Tilar J. Mazzeo's far-ranging and fascinating search beyond the stuff of legend to uncover the full story of No. 5's creation, iconic status, and extraordinary success. Mazzeo goes back through time and deep into the life of Coco Chanel, the brilliant, controversial, and steel-willed businesswoman at the heart of the fragrance. She takes readers to the rose plantations and celebrated jasmine fields where the perfume begins and then to the laboratories and boardrooms where scent and sex are forever intertwined. And she travels to the heart of the Chanel empire: 31 Rue Cambon, Coco Chanel's flagship boutique, where six decades ago American GIs stormed the counters to possess the magical elixir that captured the luxury and romance of Paris for their girls back home.

A blend of evocative history and thoughtful research, here is a glittering account of where art and sensuality mingle with dazzling entrepreneurship and desire: Chanel No. 5.

From Carrie Bradshaw to Grace Jones, and from Nicki Minaj to Blair Waldorf, New York is the fashion 'it girl' capital of the world. Home of both laid-back street style and the luxury of the MET Gala, New York has earned its reputation as one of the most stylish capitals in the world. From the eclectic looks of Brooklyn to chic Manhattan elegance, it is a city that hums with style. This instalment of the beautiful Little Books of City Style series will explore the fashion history of the city that never sleeps, providing an exquisitely illustrated guide to dressing like a Native New Yorker.

To work with the materials of tomorrow, design students across visual arts disciplines need to understand the cutting edge of today. Whether you're modelling in interiors, designing in fashion or constructing for interiors, in your work or as part of a final project, 3D Printing design is an encouraging guide to additive manufacturing within design disciplines. Francis Bitonti gives an insider's view from his design studio on how 3D printing is already shaking up the industry, and where it's likely to go next. Complete with interviews from designers, business owners and 3D-print experts throughout, Bitonti considers whether 3D body scans mean couture for all, how rapid prototyping can change your design method and if 3D printing materials can enhance medical design, amongst other areas of this emerging method of manufacture. This is inspirational reading for the designers of tomorrow.

This book sources interviews with scholars, urban designers, music experts, financial analysts, retailers, and hip hop celebrities to chronicle the compelling story of how hip hop transformed the fashion world and exploded into a $3 billion clothing industry. For years, designers and manufacturers took cues from the streets to enhance their clothing lines, but before the 1980s the urban consumer was never recognized as a viable demographic. In a push to appeal to young customers, the fashion industry began hiring and backing talented African American designers and entrepreneurs. This seemingly unconventional union made business sense: seasoned fashion executives brought proven track records, while aspiring designers provided street credibility and a fresh perspective on design. The end result: a multi-billion dollar industry. This book traces the fascinating unfolding of hip hop fashion from its roots to the present day. It explores how hip hop transitioned from "the hood" to the runway; how race, ethnicity, and culture played into commercialism; how celebrities impacted the fashion industry; and what ultimately led major department stores to jump on the urban bandwagon. Utilizing the author's journalistic lens and based upon interviews with urban fashion designers, entrepreneurs, fashion veterans, trend forecasters, and hip hop celebrities, each chapter is akin to an oral history that provides not just facts but also invaluable analysis and historical perspective. A foreword by Daymond John, cofounder of FUBU, star of ABC's The Shark Tank, and author of The Display of Power and The Brand Within A chronology of 20th-century fashion styles as well as urban fashion from the late 1970s to present Many photographs of pioneering urban designers, hip hop fashion trends, hip hop celebrities, and more A multicultural bibliography containing significant materials from the fields of history, music, culture, and fashion

This is the first book in English to deal comprehensively with German fashion from World War I through to the end of the Third Reich. It explores the failed attempt by the Nazi state to construct a female image that would mirror official gender policies, inculcate feelings of national pride, promote a German victory on the fashion runways of Europe and support a Nazi-controlled European fashion industry. Not only was fashion one of the countrys largest industries throughout the interwar period, but German women ranked among the most elegantly dressed in all of Europe. While exploding the cultural stereotype of the German woman as either a Brunhilde in uniform or a chubby farmers wife, the author reveals the often heated debates surrounding the issue of female image and clothing, as well as the ambiguous and contradictory relationship between official Nazi propaganda and the reality of womens daily lives during this crucial period in German history. Because Hitler never took a firm public stance on fashion, an investigation of fashion policy reveals ambivalent posturing, competing factions and conflicting laws in what was clearly not a monolithic National Socialist state. Drawing on previously neglected primary sources, Guenther unearths new material to detail the inner workings of a government-supported fashion institute and an organization established to help aryanize the German fashion world.How did the few with power maintain style and elegance? How did the majority experience the increased standardization of clothing characteristic of the Nazi years? How did women deal with the severe clothing restrictions brought about by Nazi policies and the exigencies of war? These questions and many others, including the role of anti-Semitism, aryanization and the hypocrisy of Nazi policies, are all thoroughly examined in this pathbreaking book.

Interest in contemporary cultural industries has grown in the past decade, as they take on a greater significance in our increasingly consumer-led society. Focusing on the world of fashion photography, this book presents an interdisciplinary approach in which this and other aesthetic markets, such as advertising, modelling, art, music and more, can be viewed. The main thrust of this groundbreaking book, is in developing a theory for these cultural markets, characterized by insecurity, and where status and aesthetic diversity generate order and price differentiation. In these industries, services and products are offered that are a mix of the aesthetic and the economic, and for fashion photographers such as those studied here, it is necessary to carefully position themselves in the market by developing unique photographic styles and separating themselves from competitors. Yet the markets in which these industries operate differ from the type of exchange markets depicted by neoclassical economists, and therefore cannot be considered using such modes of analysis. Instead Aspers conducts his study using empirical phenomenology, an original approach presented here for the first time, which can be easily used in other empirical studies. He draws on original empirical material; participant observation and interviews generated in New York and Stockholm; which bring a depth of analysis and a relevance to this book which academics, researchers and those with a vested interest in such industries will value. Written by one of the world's brightest young economic sociologists, this fascinating book (previously published in Sweden and enthusiastically received) is endorsed by recognized industry authorities. A noteworthy book, it provides a foothold in the burgeoning sub discipline of economic sociology, and a significant analysis of the economics of the fashion photography industry.

Newcomers to the fashion industry often base costings on the sum of a style's fabric, trims and labor-and to that they simply add their markup. However, every other activity of the business erodes that markup, and they find themselves with an unsustainable profit-or a loss. This guide will help you avoid these pitfalls to guarantee a sustainable profit. Apparel Costing details traditional and current costing methods for the fast-paced and e-commerce-focused fashion marketplace. You will learn industry-specific product/style costing that can be applied to garments produced both locally and globally. You'll also learn how to calculate line item percentages on indirect cost factors, such as factory sourcing, overhead, administration and product development. Key topics include: Target Market Pricing; Variable vs Fixed Costs; Direct vs Indirect Cost Factors; Cost-Based vs Value-Based Costing; Domestic vs International Production Costing; Effect of Sourcing on Costing; Sustainability in Costing; Fast Fashion vs. Slow Fashion

Learn how to develop, launch and build a successful fashion brand with this definitive textbook which explores the realities of the contemporary fashion industry. Fashion Brand Management is a complete guide to operating a fashion business in a multi-trillion revenue industry. Written by a leading innovator in the space, it describes how to gain competitive advantage, meaningfully embrace sustainability and purpose and successfully market to and engage consumers. Balancing theory with practical applications throughout, it also explores the key business models and financial management processes used in the industry and how fashion brands can build entrepreneurial advantage. Exploring the key challenges and opportunities for today's fashion businesses both large and small, Fashion Brand Management examines supply chain disruption, social selling and technological innovations including the metaverse, digital collections and blockchain. Featuring case studies from a range of innovative global brands including Ecoalf, MWHQ, Pala Eyewear and Unhidden, in-text features include learning objectives, key terms and activities. With supporting online resources consisting of lecture slides, self-test questions, group activities and worksheets, this is an essential resource for fashion students.

Lymph drainage massage is a technique utilized by massage therapists to provide relief from edema, an accumulation of fluids in the tissues that causes swelling. This book provides a scientifically-accurate explanation of the lymphatic system, the theory behind lymph drainage massage, and explains when it should be performed. Also provided is an explanation of the application of lymph drainage massage to the needs of well clients, rather than focusing on pathology, since most massage therapists and estheticians will not be treating lymph edema disease in their work. The book offers step-by-step procedures for facial and upper and lower body massage, giving you practical information that can be applied immediately. With an aging baby boomer generation and the population at large increasingly focused on well-being, technicians - whether beginners or those looking to review and broaden their skills - are increasingly interested in learning about lymph drainage massage and how it can enhance their clients' experience as well as their own careers. Milady's Guide to Lymph Drainage Massage can play a vital role in accomplishing all of these goals.