When thinking about lowering or changing consumption to lower carbon footprints, the obvious offenders come easily to mind: petroleum and petroleum products, paper and plastic, even food, but not clothes. When people evaluate ways to lower their personal carbon footprint by changing purchasing habits, they are bombarded with information to avoid petroleum and petroleum products, plastics, paper, even food, but not clothes. Most consumers do not think of clothes as a source of environmental damage. Yet, clothes are made with petroleum products through chemically-laden industrial processes that generate significant pollution. The fashion industry is among the largest organic water polluters in the world, accounting for significant greenhouse gas emissions and generating massive amounts of waste as a function of the frequent discarding of used clothing. In the Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and Its Negative Impact on Environment and Society, author Nikolay Anguelov exposed the ecological damage from the fast-fashion business model. In this book, The Sustainable Fashion Quest: Innovations in Business and Policy, the author takes this one step further by focusing on solutions. This book uses the familiar (yet complex) industry of fashion as a lens to examine how business pressures and national and international policies can have both positive and negative social and ecological impacts. It provides an analysis of extant and emerging policies to address the divergence in the ongoing quest to maximize economic development and minimize the social costs of the industrialization process. It also examines emerging technologies and innovative business models that have the potential to revolutionize how fashion is perceived, manufactured, and consumed. This book begins with an introductory letter that outlines the social and environmental issues facing the fashion industry, as well as emphasizing the seriousness and urgency of addressing them. Each chapter then focuses on a major aspect of the industry with an increasing emphasis on policy. The chapters outline the impact of global-level and business-level decisions on the industry's success, its social and environmental impact, and its relationship to consumers. The goal of the book is to define that transition, explain its challenges, and educate readers on the possibilities to become powerful drivers of change through their professional actions and their personal behavior as consumers. While the book specifically analyzes the fashion industry, it also explains the implications for other industrial sectors. It uses a product everyone is familiar with (we all buy clothes, after all) to examine the decisions, impacts, and policies shaping the industry behind the scenes. The linkages are applicable to other fast-moving consumer goods (FMCG) business sectors, such as consumer electronics, which are starting to face sustainability criticism for relying on a business model of promoting a high frequency of repeat purchasing.

This Student Book includes full coverage of all mandatory and optional hairdressing units so learners can be confident they have covered the required underpinning knowledge for their NVQ/SVQ Level 3. It also covers the popular units from Barbering and African-type hair standards, offering learners the chance to broaden their knowledge for their chosen profession. Striking design and lots of new photos inspire learners at the start of their chosen career. Included is a foreword by Andrew Barton, International Creative Director for Saks Hair & Beauty, former British Hairdresser of the Year, and celebrity TV stylist from Channel 4's 10 Years Younger.

The first monograph from LAYER, one of the world's most sought-after design studios, and its founder Benjamin Hubert, providing a candid and insightful account of how to make it in the highly competitive design industry Since launching in 2015, London-based design studio LAYER has grown to become a global presence in the industry, with high-profile clients such as Vitra, Braun, Nike, Bang & Olufsen, and Airbus. Across six chronological chapters, the book traces founder Benjamin Hubert's journey from being a graduate of design to establishing and subsequently expanding his own firm, and offers a candid and insightful account of how to succeed in the highly competitive design industry.

Unlike the competing texts, which focus on luxury branding and marketing, this book considers luxury from a strategic decision-making, creative and competitive perspective; Each chapter is illustrated by cases and examples from well-known international luxury firms, as well as chapter objectives, summaries, and reflective questions; Provides a framework to understand and assess value creation when creativity is relevant

The Star Shiner poses the question: Can a young man from a small rural Kentucky town--fleeing a domineering mother and an abusive, alcoholic father--find recognition and happiness in New York city, working with the high-powered fashion and cosmetic industries, and with some of the world's most famous people--without losing his values and his soul? After a notable career in fashion illustration and modeling in Paris, Richardson becomes a makeup artist, working with top fashion magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar, and with photographers Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, and Frecesco Scavullo. The book is more than a celebrity memoir in that it is a narrative of the '70s, weaving the stories of the celebrities with Richardson's own life from the '70s into the '90s, at a time in New York's history when the city's financial difficulties--similar to the ones today--led to corruption, decadence and a lack of law and order. This was the golden era of fashion and cosmetics when Vogue editor-in-chief Diana Vreeland, Charles Revson and Estee Lauder, the king and queen of cosmetics, and photographers Avedon, Penn, and Scavullo ruled the industries. The reader is taken into wild nights at Studio 54 and into New York's downtown after-hours dungeons, seething with sex, violence and drugs, where individuals are treated as mere stepping stones to the next sexual encounter. Then the party ended with the scourge of AIDS that took Richardson's partner and turned Richardson's life around with a spiritual awakening.

For this 3rd edition of Hairdressing Science the text has been completely reviewed and updated to follow the scheme set out by the Hairdressing Training Board for the National Vocational Qualifications Level 2 in Hairdressing. A change of emphasis reflects the growing concern for the safe use of chemicals and the assessment of health hazards. Throughout the book students are alerted to the effects of the misapplication of chemical products and the misuse of appliances.

Beauty matters. Throughout the world, more and more people from all walks of life spend time and money to make themselves beautiful because beauty expresses identity and shapes status and success. Whether white or black, male or female, young or old, gay or straight, working- or middle-class, Western or non-Western, democratic or fascist, people everywhere have adopted a central maxim of the twentieth century: everyone can be beautiful, and everyone should become beautiful. This volume tracks the historical roots and meanings of modern beauty cultures in the twentieth century, drawing on examples from Europe, North America, the Near East, Asia, and Africa.

This book explores the dynamic landscape of fashion in China since the beginning of the 21st century through an integrated perspective. The book considers key questions related to the changes in China's fashion dynamics driven largely by the shifts in the mindset of Chinese consumers due to the current sociocultural contexts. To provide an understanding of these important shifts, this three-part monograph pays close attention to the new generation of Chinese fashion designers and consumers. The book explores in detail related topics such as, how today's Chinese consumers relate to foreign brands, the meaning of apparel brands as identity symbols or cultural signs to contemporary young consumers, the attractiveness of Western fashion designers and brands in the eyes of current Chinese consumers as compared to past consumers, and how brands could adapt to the online-centered consumption behavior. The book serves as an insightful update on the Chinese fashion landscape for researchers, practitioners and passionate followers of its evolution.

Originally published in 1999 The Commercial Use of Biodiversity examines how biodiversity and the genetic material it contains are now as valuable resources. Access to genetic resources and their commercial development involve a wide range of parties such as conservation and research institutes, local communities, government agencies and companies. Equitable partnerships are not only crucial to conservation and economic development but are also in the interests of business and often required by law. In this authoritative and comprehensive volume, the authors explain the provisions of the Convention on Biological Diversity on access and benefit-sharing, the effect of national laws to implement these, and aspects of typical contracts for the transfer of materials. They provide a unique sector-by-sector analysis of how genetic resources are used, the scientific, technological and regulatory trends and the different markets in Pharmaceuticals, Botanical Medicines, Crop Development, Horticulture, Crop Protection, Biotechnology (in fields other than healthcare and agriculture) and Personal Care and Cosmetics Products. This will be an essential sourcebook for all those in the commercial chain, from raw material collection to product discovery, development and marketing, for governments and policy-makers drafting laws on access and for all the institutions, communities and individuals involved in the conservation, use, study and commercialisation of genetic resources.

This book nuances our understanding of the contemporary creative economy by engaging with a set of three key tensions which emerged over the course of eight European Colloquiums on Culture, Creativity and Economy (CCE): 1) the tension between individual and collaborative creative practices, 2) the tension between tradition and innovation, and 3) the tension between isolated and interconnected spaces of creativity. Rather than focusing on specific processes, such as production, industries or locations, the tensions acknowledge and engage with the messy and restless nature of the creative economy. Individual chapters offer insights into poorly understood practices, locations and contexts such as co-working spaces in Berlin and rural Spain, creative businesses in Leicester and the role and importance of cultural intermediaries in creative economies within Africa. Others examine the nature of trans-local cultural flows, the evolving "field" of fashion, and the implications of social media and crowdfunding platforms. This book will be of interest to students, scholars and professionals researching the creative economy, as well as specific cultural and creative industries, across the humanities and social sciences.

* Offers a completely unique and fresh approach to the fashion industry; dividing into thirteen core sectors to analyse and compare the varying business models and strategic approaches * Uses a huge range of global examples throughout the book to demonstrate how the theory translates to practice in each segment identified * Covers all areas related to the management and marketing of specific brands, including brand image, supply chain, communication, price point, merchandising and social media

Walking around the commercial streets of New York, San Francisco, Milan, London, or Paris and looking at the succession of multinational chain stores' windows, you can easily forget what country you are in. However, if you hear the small talk among the employees, you hear very different stories. In New York, a 30-year-old woman is worried because she does not know if she will work enough hours to make a living the following week-whereas, in Milan, a mother of the same age knows she will work 20 hours a week but is concerned about whether her contract will be renewed at the end of the following month. Following three years of fieldwork, which included 100 in-depth interviews with front-line retail workers and unionists in New York City and Milan, Front-Line Workers in the Global Service Economy investigates both the lived experiences of salespersons in the "fast fashion" industry-a retail sector made of large chains of stores selling fashion garments at low prices-and the possibilities of collective action and structured forms of resistance to these global trends. In the face of economic globalization and vigorous managerial efforts to minimize labor costs and to standardize the retail experience, mass fashion workers' stories tell us how strong the pressure toward work devaluation in low-skilled service sectors can be, and how devastating its effects are on the workers themselves.

This book explores editorial and advertising discourses related to cosmetic procedures and beauty products and services in UK lifestyle magazines, offering a holistic perspective on the normalisation of cosmetic procedures and the societal context in which particular perceptions have flourished. The volume examines the societal climate that contributed to cultural perceptions of the body as object and project, and constructions of masculinities and femininities as context for developments in lifestyle magazines' content on beauty and cosmetic procedures. Integrating approaches from Critical Discourse Analysis, Thematic Analysis, and Content Analysis, Hermans explores the varying ways in which cosmetic procedures and other beauty products are marketed to different audiences and examines phenomena such as the problem/solution rhetoric, and developments in beauty advertising discourse specifically targeted at men. The book also investigates the continuum view of beauty products and cosmetic procedures, and examines the implications of these blurred boundaries for the regulation of the cosmetic surgery industry. This innovative contribution to research on the representation of cosmetic procedures and beauty products in the media will be of interest to scholars researching at the intersection of language, gender, individualised body projects, and sexuality.

Fashion buying, a key component in fashion retailing, is second only to design as a career option for fashion graduates. The buyer has a central role in influencing what consumers choose to wear and in determining whether a fashion retailing company succeeds or fails. Buying is a multi-faceted job, which typically involves fashion forecasting, range-planning, garment sourcing and budgeting.
This comprehensive textbook describes the buying cycle, buying for stores and mail order and how to start a career in fashion buying. A glossary of buying terminology, as well as input from fashion buyers currently working for major companies, give a clear insight into this exciting and challenging role.
The new edition has been revised throughout, includes more emphasis on buying for the internet, and all the interviews have been updated or replaced.

For two and a half years, Amanda Czerniawski was a sociologist turned plus-size model. Journeying into a world where, as a size 10, she was not considered an average body type, but rather, for the fashion industry, "plus-sized," Czerniawski studied the standards of work and image production in the plus-sized model industry. Fashioning Fat takes us through a model's day-to-day activities, first at open calls at modeling agencies and then through the fashion shows and photo shoots. Czerniawski also interviewed 35 plus-size models about their lives in the world of fashion, bringing to life the strange contradictions of being an object of non-idealized beauty. Fashioning Fat shows us that the mission of many of these models is to challenge our standards of beauty that privilege the thin body; they show us that fat can be sexy. Many plus-size models do often succeed in overcoming years of self-loathing and shame over their bodies, yet, as Czerniawski shows, these women are not the ones in charge of beauty's construction or dissemination. At the corporate level, the fashion industry perpetuates their objectification. Plus-size models must conform to an image created by fashion's tastemakers, as their bodies must fit within narrowly defined parameters of size and shape--an experience not too different from that of straight-sized models. Ultimately, plus-size models find that they are still molding their bodies to fit an image instead of molding an image of beauty to fit their bodies. A much-needed behind-the-scenes look at this growing industry, Fashioning Fat is a fascinating, unique, and important contribution to our understanding of beauty.

This is the first book in English to deal comprehensively with German fashion from World War I through to the end of the Third Reich. It explores the failed attempt by the Nazi state to construct a female image that would mirror official gender policies, inculcate feelings of national pride, promote a German victory on the fashion runways of Europe and support a Nazi-controlled European fashion industry. Not only was fashion one of the countrys largest industries throughout the interwar period, but German women ranked among the most elegantly dressed in all of Europe. While exploding the cultural stereotype of the German woman as either a Brunhilde in uniform or a chubby farmers wife, the author reveals the often heated debates surrounding the issue of female image and clothing, as well as the ambiguous and contradictory relationship between official Nazi propaganda and the reality of womens daily lives during this crucial period in German history. Because Hitler never took a firm public stance on fashion, an investigation of fashion policy reveals ambivalent posturing, competing factions and conflicting laws in what was clearly not a monolithic National Socialist state. Drawing on previously neglected primary sources, Guenther unearths new material to detail the inner workings of a government-supported fashion institute and an organization established to help aryanize the German fashion world.How did the few with power maintain style and elegance? How did the majority experience the increased standardization of clothing characteristic of the Nazi years? How did women deal with the severe clothing restrictions brought about by Nazi policies and the exigencies of war? These questions and many others, including the role of anti-Semitism, aryanization and the hypocrisy of Nazi policies, are all thoroughly examined in this pathbreaking book.

Summarizing the extant research on marketing communications, social media and word of mouth, this book clarifies terms often incorrectly and interchangeably used by scholars and marketers and provides principles of effective marketing communications in social media for different brand types and in different geographic markets. Conversations among consumers on social media now have an unprecedented ability to shape attitudes toward people, products, services, brands and to influence buying decisions. Consequently, the digital era brings to the fore the importance of interpersonal relations and the power of personal recommendations. This book is the first to empirically investigate how the form and appeal of marketing communications in social networks influence electronic word of mouth, including an examination of brand type and geographic market. The author focuses on motivations and reveals why people exchange opinions about brands, products and services in the digital environment. The book summarizes the existing research on marketing communications, social media and word of mouth, provides a cutting-edge knowledge based on the analysis of the actual behavior of consumers and rules of effective marketing communications in social media. This research-based book is written for scholars and researchers within the fields of marketing and communication. It may also be of interest to a wider audience interested in understanding how to use social media to influence electronic word of mouth.

Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit addresses how social and cultural ideas about credit and trust, in the context of fashion and trade, were affected by the growth and development of the bankruptcy institution. Luxury, fashion and social standing are intimately connected to consumption on credit. Drawing on data from the fashion trade, this fascinating edited volume shows how the concepts of credit, trust and bankruptcy changed towards the end of the early modern period (1500 1800) and in the beginning of the modern period. Focusing on Sweden, with comparative material from France and other European countries, this volume draws together emerging and established scholars from across the fields of economic history and fashion. This book is an essential read for scholars in economic history, financial history, social history and European history.

Someone once said, "There is nothing new under the sun only new ways to do things." This could be the anthem of the agencies that produced the advertisements shown in this exciting new book. Perfume magazine ads not only tell the story of the brand, they are on the resumA (c)s of many of the world's most famous fine artists. The images shown here represent great perfume houses at the height of their marketing prowess: Guerlain, Schiaparelli, Caron, Lentheric, Hattie Carnegie, Lanvin, Houbigant, and more. To make their brands unforgettable they hired the most creative talents available, including Andy Warhol, Dugo, Vladimir Bobrtsy (aka bobri), and fabulous photographers like Irving Penn and Edward Jacobson. These talents artists thrived in the fast paced, very lucrative perfume industry. For the perfume bottle collector, advertising historian, and those active in graphic arts, this beautiful book has over 370 magnificent images, in full color, that are responsible for the sale of millions of dollars worth of fragrance through the years.

This second volume in the Palgrave Studies in Practice: Global Fashion Management series focuses on core strategies of branding and communication of European luxury and premium brands. Brand is a critical asset many firms strive to establish, maintain, and grow. It is more so for fashion companies when consumers purchase styles, dreams and symbolic images through a brand. The volume starts with an introductory chapter that epitomizes the essence of fashion brand management with a particular emphasis on emerging branding practices, challenges and trends in the fashion industry. The subsequent five cases demonstrate how a family workshop from a small town can grow into a global luxury or premium brand within a relatively short amount of time. Scholars and practitioners in fashion, retail, branding, and international business will learn how companies can establish a strong brand identity through innovative strategies and management.

Containing the stories of four legendary fashion houses, this collectable box holds a beautiful set of covetable style guides. Exploring four designers who exemplify elegance and high couture, these little books of fashion follow these brands from their creation, moving through their style evolutions, the key looks that define them and their impact on the fashion landscape today. Discover the story behind the red sole with the Little Book of Louboutin, the process of creating the world's most iconic bags with Louis Vuitton, the craftsmanship behind the androgynous Le Smoking in Yves Saint Laurent and the genius behind the most exquisite couture with Schiaparelli. Featuring hundreds of exquisite images and text by best-selling authors, these definitive guides to luxury style are the perfect gift for any fashion lover.

The epicentre of classic chic and the home of haute couture, Paris is the capital of elegance. From the iconic luxury of Chanel, Dior and Saint Laurent to the effortless sophistication of the typical Parisienne, the city's look is replicated the world over. Little Book of Paris Style is the beautifully illustrated guide to the enduring looks, designers and icons that embody the city of light.

Provides a comprehensive overview of the key themes surrounding luxury brand management and the core issues faced by luxury firms today; Each chapter is illustrated by well-recognized contemporary cases and examples to demonstrate how the theory translates to practice and provide an exciting teaching resource; Includes insights from a range of expert contributors from both research and consulting backgrounds

The history of clothing begins with the origin of man, and fashionable dress can be traced as far back as 25,000 years ago. Recent scientific explorations have uncovered graves in northern Russia with skeletons covered in beads made of mammoth ivory that once adorned clothing made of animal skin. The Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans each made major contributions to fashion's legacy from their textile innovations, unique clothing designs and their early use of accessories, cosmetics, and jewelry. During the Middle Ages, "fashion trends" emerged as trade and commerce thrived allowing the merchant class to afford to emulate the fashions worn by royals. However, it is widely believed that fashion didn't became an industry until the industrial and commercial revolution during the latter part of the 18th century. Since then, the industry has grown exponentially. Today, fashion is one of the biggest businesses in the world, with hundreds of billions of dollars in turnover and employing tens of millions of workers. It is both a profession, an industry, and in the eyes of many, an art. The A to Z of the Fashion Industry examines the origins and history of this billion-dollar industry. This is done through a chronology, an introductory essay, a bibliography, and hundreds of cross-referenced entries on designers, models, couture houses, significant articles of apparel and fabrics, trade unions, and the international trade organizations.

The period since 1945 has been a transformative era for the fashion industry. Over the course of seventy years, the fashion world has moved from celebrating the craftsmanship of haute couture to revelling in ever-changing fast-fashion. This volume examines the transition from the old system to the new in a series of case studies grouped around three major themes. Part I focuses on Paris as a creative hub, aiming to understand how the birthplace of haute couture adapted to late-twentieth-century developments. Part II considers the retailer's role in shaping taste, responding to consumer expectations and disseminating fashion merchandise. Part III looks to alternative visions of the European fashion system that have appeared in unexpected places. The volume is highly interdisciplinary, covering design history, cultural anthropology, ethnography, management studies and the cultural history of business. -- .