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Books > Health, Home & Family > Cookery / food & drink etc > General
When her mother passed along a cookbook made and assembled by her
grandmother, Erica Abrams Locklear thought she knew what to expect.
But rather than finding a homemade cookbook full of apple stack
cake, leather britches, pickled watermelon, or other "traditional"
mountain recipes, Locklear discovered recipes for devil's food cake
with coconut icing, grape catsup, and fig pickles. Some recipes
even relied on food products like Bisquick, Swans Down flour, and
Calumet baking powder. Where, Locklear wondered, did her
Appalachian food script come from? And what implicit judgments had
she made about her grandmother based on the foods she imagined she
would have been interested in cooking? Appalachia on the Table
argues, in part, that since the conception of Appalachia as a
distinctly different region from the rest of the South and the
United States, the foods associated with the region and its people
have often been used to socially categorize and stigmatize mountain
people. Rather than investigate the actual foods consumed in
Appalachia, Locklear instead focuses on the representations of
foods consumed, implied moral judgments about those foods, and how
those judgments shape reader perceptions of those depicted. The
question at the core of Locklear's analysis asks, How did the
dominant culinary narrative of the region come into existence and
what consequences has that narrative had for people in the
mountains?
When her mother passed along a cookbook made and assembled by her
grandmother, Erica Abrams Locklear thought she knew what to expect.
But rather than finding a homemade cookbook full of apple stack
cake, leather britches, pickled watermelon, or other "traditional"
mountain recipes, Locklear discovered recipes for devil's food cake
with coconut icing, grape catsup, and fig pickles. Some recipes
even relied on food products like Bisquick, Swans Down flour, and
Calumet baking powder. Where, Locklear wondered, did her
Appalachian food script come from? And what implicit judgments had
she made about her grandmother based on the foods she imagined she
would have been interested in cooking? Appalachia on the Table
argues, in part, that since the conception of Appalachia as a
distinctly different region from the rest of the South and the
United States, the foods associated with the region and its people
have often been used to socially categorize and stigmatize mountain
people. Rather than investigate the actual foods consumed in
Appalachia, Locklear instead focuses on the representations of
foods consumed, implied moral judgments about those foods, and how
those judgments shape reader perceptions of those depicted. The
question at the core of Locklear's analysis asks, How did the
dominant culinary narrative of the region come into existence and
what consequences has that narrative had for people in the
mountains?
This is the eighteenth volume of the ongoing series of papers and
submissions to the Oxford Symposium on Food & Cookery, the
longest running food history conference in the world. The subject
this year is more peculative than is often the case and
contributors have ranged widely over a topic which allows them to
explore the sychological bases of food consumption and the
development of cookery, as well as more obvious excursions down
memory lane in pursuit of food and drink. There are upwards of 30
papers from food historians based in Britain, United States, Japan
and the Far East, Australia, and Northern Europe.
These essays were presented at the seventeenth Leeds Symposium on
Food History, of which this is the fourteenth volume in the series
'Food and Society.' Their common theme is the way in which we
cooked our food from the medieval to the modern eras, most
especially, how we roasted meats. The authors are distinguished
food historians, mostly from the north of England. David Eveleigh
discusses the rise of the kitchen range, from the 19th-century
coal-fired monsters to the electric and gas cookers of the early
20th century. Ivan Day, in two essays, talks about techniques of
roasting. In the first he tells of the ox roast - the open-air
celebration with the cooking done on a blazing campfire. In the
second he traces the history of the clockwork spit, the final, most
domestic version of the open-hearth device that had been driven by
dogs or scullions in earlier centuries. Peter Brears gives us the
fruits of many years' involvement in the reconstruction of the
kitchens at Hampton Court and other Royal Palaces in his account of
roasting, specifically the 'baron of beef', in these important
locales. The final two chapters discuss aspects of baking rather
than roasting. Laura Mason tells of the English reliance on yeast
as a raising agent - in the earliest times deriving it from brewing
ale, and Susan McClellan Plaisted gives an account of running a
masonry wood-fired oven in living-history museums in America,
discussing the transmission of cooking techniques from the Old to
the New World, and the problems encountered in baking a
satisfactory loaf. The book is very generously illustrated, both by
photographs of artefacts and reproductions of early prints and
engravings that elucidate their purpose and function.
"NEW YORK TIMES" BESTSELLING AUTHOR OF "MY PARIS KITCHEN
"
Like so many others, David Lebovitz dreamed about living in Paris
ever since he first visited the city in the 1980s. Finally, after a
nearly two-decade career as a pastry chef and cookbook author, he
moved to Paris to start a new life. Having crammed all his worldly
belongings into three suitcases, he arrived, hopes high, at his new
apartment in the lively Bastille neighborhood.
But he soon discovered it's a different world "en France."
From learning the ironclad rules of social conduct to the mysteries
of men's footwear, from shopkeepers who work so hard not to sell
you anything to the etiquette of working the right way around the
cheese plate, here is David's story of how he came to fall in love
with--and even understand--this glorious, yet sometimes maddening,
city.
When did he realize he had morphed into "un vrai parisien"? It
might have been when he found himself considering a purchase of
men's dress socks with cartoon characters on them. Or perhaps the
time he went to a bank with 135 euros in hand to make a 134-euro
payment, was told the bank had no change that day, and thought it
was completely normal. Or when he found himself dressing up to take
out the garbage because he had come to accept that in Paris
appearances and image mean everything.
The more than fifty original recipes, for dishes both savory and
sweet, such as Pork Loin with Brown Sugar-Bourbon Glaze, Braised
Turkey in Beaujolais Nouveau with Prunes, Bacon and Bleu Cheese
Cake, Chocolate-Coconut Marshmallows, Chocolate Spice Bread,
Lemon-Glazed Madeleines, and Mocha-Creme Fraiche Cake, will have
readers running to the kitchen once they stop laughing.
"The Sweet Life in Paris" is a deliciously funny, offbeat, and
irreverent look at the city of lights, cheese, chocolate, and other
confections.
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