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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Water sports & recreations > Surfing, windsurfing, water skiing
Surfing Liquid Blue Topaz: Regaining Lost Skills, Moving to Peak
Performances Through the analogy of surfing, the sport of Kings,
Dr. Oliver takes the reader on a lifetime journey telling how to
regain lost skills and move to peak performances regardless of age
or circumstances. A perfect book for surfers, sports enthusiasts,
unemployed, downsized, divorced, disease challenged and those
simply hungry to know the truth of life and where to find it.
Jammed packed with real-life photos, Dr. Oliver tell the true-life
story of how he overcame through the power of Jesus Christ and
achieved success in spite of all negative circumstances. With a
no-holds-bared honesty and transparency learn up-close and personal
what makes Dr. Oliver tick and how he overcame the tragic death of
his father at age 12, personal rejection, unemployment, poverty,
cancer twice, crippling arthritis, lack, persecution, divorce and
almost dying 7 times.
Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches,
bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of
surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first
international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows
that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous
pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and
repression of the long twentieth century.
Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii,
spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World,
tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed
as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of
modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach
Boys, and the film "Blue Crush." From nineteenth-century American
empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf
industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely
mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its
less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people
worldwide.
Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern
history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story
of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but
never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our
globalized world.
Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku
(1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon,
waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their
splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of
Waikiki to become America's first superstar Olympic swimmer. The
original "human fish" set dozens of world records and topped the
world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny
Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant
sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown
to introduce the sport of "surf-riding," an activity unknown beyond
the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his
traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to
the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American
athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did,
and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a
dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism
and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and
Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku's connection to his homeland was
equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent
kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor
and World War II and as a globetrotting "Ambassador of Aloha"
afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one
sportswriter put it, Duke was "Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined
down here." In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis
examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the
water.
Surfing is a way of life that transcends beyond the waves and soaks
into the core of our existence. Those laws of surfing, which tells
us how fast to paddle, when to pop up on our board, or even how
long to hold our breath when struggling to reach the surface, can
and do apply to any situation in our lives whether it be work,
relationships, school, health, or anything. If you're struggling
with happiness in any of those situations, you have the power to
change your entire life. You can surf for any of your goals with
the right framework, whether it's to surf Rincon in California,
North Shore of Oahu, or finding a new job. A surfer's guide to
personal success is that map which tells you the mile marker to
turn when searching for the break you've been looking for your
entire life. I used a blend of experience, knowledge, and love of
surfing in crafting this guidebook that shows you that map in a
simple step by step manner. Our goals are like waves on the ocean.
They keep coming, and it's up to us to decide which to ride. When
you miss the ride, don't get mad at the wave, just paddle into
another because the waves always come.
Surf Safari is a true story that follows a family into the 1960's
Latin America in search of adventure. As surfers, they clung to the
Pacific Coast of Mexico and Central America, often forced to travel
unmarked roads through dense jungles to lonely beaches. In addition
to braving unknown waters and unexpected travel hazards always
lurked as well - bandidos and armed soldiers of the ruthless
dictators in those third world nations. They survived a major
hurricane, an earthquake and drove through the middle of an ongoing
war. Several times they were stopped by armed soldiers, automatics
weapons pointed into the car until proved they were americans.
There was even a brush with the law, the boys and Land rover
arrested then released. another time they were held for several
days in El Salvador's main prison. few down there had ever seen
anyone surf the terrifying waves that crashed on their shores.
Entire villages came out to watch the boys surf waves they feared
and expected to see them eaten by sharks. When they emerged from
the ocean they were treated as local heros, surrounded by kids who
wanted to carry their boards and touch their shoulder length sun
bleached hair. after two years in Latin america the Blanchard
family moved to Hanalei, Kauai where Holt and Brad still live and
surf, including Holt's children. alana Blanchard, a top ten world
pro surfer, helped her father and brother save Bethany Hamilton's
life when attacked by a Tiger shark.
"Wanted: six guys with guts " An obscure advertisement in a surf
magazine sets in motion a journey through Sumatra's jungles, across
volcanoes and along chaotic roads, through isolated villages and
temples to the fabled Mentawai Islands and beyond. As the Island
Explorer drifts deeper into the wilds, its occupants gradually lose
their connection with the "real world" and start existing in their
own dreamland. But the future becomes uncertain when the captain
jumps ship and the stand-in skipper slowly becomes unhinged in the
tropical heat. Join the quest to find pristine islands, untouched
coral beaches and flawless surf. Sail through equatorial
Indonesia's sparkling seas with a group of surfers searching for
that elusive, ideal wave. Please note that the print version of
Island Explorer does not contain the photographs that are included
in the Kindle version.
An in-depth look at surfing as a form of spirituality and way of
life. Real surfing, real stories, real spirituality. Reviews:
"Drawing on philosophy, religion, science, literature, and her own
experience, Leslie Kerby deftly reveals why so many of us find
solace and peace in the sea. I loved this book." Jaimal Yogis,
author of Saltwater Buddha and The Fear Project Surfing And
Spirituality is the only book I've ever read to capture the true
essence of why we are drawn to the ocean and surfing. If you surf
or just love the ocean you just "get it." Where "it" is the nearly
indescribable sensation of infinite connection and presence we feel
when riding a wave. Leslie has finally put a voice to this
spiritual calling we have to the waves. She proves without a doubt
we who ride the waves do so for much more than fun. We do it to
experience a spiritual connection that can't be found in any church
or religious practice. Incredibly well researched and written in a
decidedly academic but friendly and relatable voice. I highly
recommend Surfing And Spirituality to anyone who loves the ocean or
feels that omnipresent drive to reconnect with who we really are. -
Ryan Camana
"Wave Riding: The Life and Times of a Surfer" is an
autobiographical surge that will take you on a whirlwind ride with
dancing dolphins, beautiful sunsets, twenty-foot waves, and a
flying flock of pelicans gliding along the face of a peeling wave.
As a former surf instructor, I will not only teach you about the
joy of wave riding, but as well as the etiquette, the culture, how
the ocean works, and exactly how to surf. Also dive into my world
as a wave rider since I was a little grom. Enjoy
In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful
medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to
include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the
Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing
material possessions in favour of intangible riches like health and
good cheer...all the while careening along the world's coastlines
in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy
Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong
passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the
fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars,
and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a
childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless
young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing
sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the
back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the
founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the
horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has
found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the
harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in
this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.
You're young, in love, and in paradise ... surfing, traveling,
partying. Then in one terrifying wave of heat and noise your
reality shatters into a million pieces that can never be put back
together. On October 12, 2002, a massive car bomb ripped through
the popular Kuta nightclub, the Sari Club, killing 202 people and
maiming many others. Hanabeth Luke was hamming it up on the dance
floor to cheesy pop tunes with a friend when a loud bang, like a
car back-firing, momentarily silenced the music and dimmed the
lights. Dancers stopped and heads turned, but the music and
flashing lights soon came back on and the party resumed. But only
for a few seconds ... "The noise which came next I will never
forget. It was an empty sound that did not resonate. It was a thud,
like the slam of a car door, but multiplied to a volume I simply
cannot describe," Hanabeth writes in this extraordinary memoir.
Hanabeth survived the Bali Bomb, somehow crawling through the
flaming wreckage and using fallen electrical cables to shimmy over
a four metre high concrete wall. But her boyfriend Marc Gajardo was
killed instantly in the blast. The heart-wrenching story of young
love, and lives, cut short is chilling and confronting, . Her raw
and honest account of those dreadful events brings the spectre of
terrorism into sharp and intensely personal focus. Yet it is the
story of what Hanabeth has done since which brings a spark of hope
and light to this awful chapter in our history. Confronting world
leaders, campaigning for peace and against the war on terror,
raising money and awareness, resolving to squeeze the most from
every day, Hanabeth's inspirational tale provides a stirring case
study in survival and healing.
Time Barrel looks at time distortion experienced by surfers getting
barreled. This book highlights the colorful quotes contributed by
surfers describing their experience of time in the barrel. An
academic summary and dissertation are presented herein with
references for students and researchers interested in subjective
time, flow theory, the surfer population in research, and social
media in qualitative research. Look for a video in the future.
Thanks to all of the athletes who participated in this study and
all of the surfers on http: //www.facebook.com/DrCynthiaPeterson.
The original and still most detailed guide book for surfers heading
to Mexico's surf-packed Baja peninsula. This guide features over
120 surf spots, including the legendary points, reefs, beachbreaks
and even islands. From Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas and around to the
East Cape, with surf maps, surf travel tips, wave height chart,
tips on when to surf where, accommodations and more. Created in the
same style as the very popular THE SURFER'S GUIDE TO COSTA RICA
& SW NICARAGUA as it's written by the same author. There is no
better guide for surfers heading to Baja.
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