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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Water sports & recreations > Surfing, windsurfing, water skiing
Chasing a dream is never easy, but if you go far enough, it will
set you free. Captain Liz Clark spent her youth dreaming of
traveling the world by sailboat and surfing remote waves. When she
was 22, she met a mentor who helped turn her desire into reality.
Embarking on an adventure that most only fantasize about, she set
sail from Santa Barbara, California, as captain of her 40-foot
sailboat, Swell, headed south in search of surf, self, and the
wonder and learning that lies beyond the unbroken horizon. In true
stories overflowing with wild waves and constant challenges, at the
whim of the weather, of relationships sweet and sour, of nature's
marvels and colorful cultures, Liz captures her voyage in gripping
detail in this memoir, sharing tales of sailing in high seas, of
solitude and surprises, of finding connection to the earth and
commitment to living in harmony with it. She witnesses how her
dream leads her to understanding the unity of all things. More than
ten years, 20,000 miles, countless adventures, and one cat later,
she's still out there.
Surfing Liquid Blue Topaz: Regaining Lost Skills, Moving to Peak
Performances Through the analogy of surfing, the sport of Kings,
Dr. Oliver takes the reader on a lifetime journey telling how to
regain lost skills and move to peak performances regardless of age
or circumstances. A perfect book for surfers, sports enthusiasts,
unemployed, downsized, divorced, disease challenged and those
simply hungry to know the truth of life and where to find it.
Jammed packed with real-life photos, Dr. Oliver tell the true-life
story of how he overcame through the power of Jesus Christ and
achieved success in spite of all negative circumstances. With a
no-holds-bared honesty and transparency learn up-close and personal
what makes Dr. Oliver tick and how he overcame the tragic death of
his father at age 12, personal rejection, unemployment, poverty,
cancer twice, crippling arthritis, lack, persecution, divorce and
almost dying 7 times.
Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive,
thoughtful, self-depricating - while providing intimate insights
into the personal lessons gained along the way - with practical
tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design,
travel, competitive strategies and mental clarity.
'A remarkable story that will appeal to those who ride a board and
those who have never set foot in the water alike.' NEWCASTLE HERALD
In GHOST WAVE, Chris Dixon dives deep into the fascinating history
of Cortes Bank and the motley brotherhood of argumentative,
damaged, brave and quirky margin walkers who discovered and scaled
the tallest mountain in the sea. Along the way, he'll show how
these pioneering wave-addicts changed our very understanding of the
science of surfing, while giving sea-level credence to
environmentalists' fears that the weather is indeed going haywire.
GHOST WAVE is the result of extensive interviews not only with
these surfers and those close to them, but also with psychologists
who provide insights into their strange addiction to deadly waves.
Dixon draws on the knowledge of oceanographers and meteorologists
as well as emulating his own experience as a lifelong surfer. 'The
object of my obsession for the past few years has been a sunken
island 100 miles off the southern California coast called the
Cortes Bank. On just the right swells, in just the right
conditions, the three foot deep summit of this mile-high
mountaintop produces the biggest surfable wave on the face of the
earth ...'
Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches,
bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of
surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first
international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows
that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous
pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and
repression of the long twentieth century.
Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii,
spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World,
tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed
as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of
modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach
Boys, and the film "Blue Crush." From nineteenth-century American
empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf
industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely
mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its
less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people
worldwide.
Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern
history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story
of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but
never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our
globalized world.
"Wave Riding: The Life and Times of a Surfer" is an
autobiographical surge that will take you on a whirlwind ride with
dancing dolphins, beautiful sunsets, twenty-foot waves, and a
flying flock of pelicans gliding along the face of a peeling wave.
As a former surf instructor, I will not only teach you about the
joy of wave riding, but as well as the etiquette, the culture, how
the ocean works, and exactly how to surf. Also dive into my world
as a wave rider since I was a little grom. Enjoy
Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku
(1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon,
waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their
splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of
Waikiki to become America's first superstar Olympic swimmer. The
original "human fish" set dozens of world records and topped the
world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny
Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant
sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown
to introduce the sport of "surf-riding," an activity unknown beyond
the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his
traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to
the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American
athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did,
and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a
dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism
and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and
Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku's connection to his homeland was
equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent
kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor
and World War II and as a globetrotting "Ambassador of Aloha"
afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one
sportswriter put it, Duke was "Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined
down here." In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis
examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the
water.
Surf Safari is a true story that follows a family into the 1960's
Latin America in search of adventure. As surfers, they clung to the
Pacific Coast of Mexico and Central America, often forced to travel
unmarked roads through dense jungles to lonely beaches. In addition
to braving unknown waters and unexpected travel hazards always
lurked as well - bandidos and armed soldiers of the ruthless
dictators in those third world nations. They survived a major
hurricane, an earthquake and drove through the middle of an ongoing
war. Several times they were stopped by armed soldiers, automatics
weapons pointed into the car until proved they were americans.
There was even a brush with the law, the boys and Land rover
arrested then released. another time they were held for several
days in El Salvador's main prison. few down there had ever seen
anyone surf the terrifying waves that crashed on their shores.
Entire villages came out to watch the boys surf waves they feared
and expected to see them eaten by sharks. When they emerged from
the ocean they were treated as local heros, surrounded by kids who
wanted to carry their boards and touch their shoulder length sun
bleached hair. after two years in Latin america the Blanchard
family moved to Hanalei, Kauai where Holt and Brad still live and
surf, including Holt's children. alana Blanchard, a top ten world
pro surfer, helped her father and brother save Bethany Hamilton's
life when attacked by a Tiger shark.
"Wanted: six guys with guts " An obscure advertisement in a surf
magazine sets in motion a journey through Sumatra's jungles, across
volcanoes and along chaotic roads, through isolated villages and
temples to the fabled Mentawai Islands and beyond. As the Island
Explorer drifts deeper into the wilds, its occupants gradually lose
their connection with the "real world" and start existing in their
own dreamland. But the future becomes uncertain when the captain
jumps ship and the stand-in skipper slowly becomes unhinged in the
tropical heat. Join the quest to find pristine islands, untouched
coral beaches and flawless surf. Sail through equatorial
Indonesia's sparkling seas with a group of surfers searching for
that elusive, ideal wave. Please note that the print version of
Island Explorer does not contain the photographs that are included
in the Kindle version.
An in-depth look at surfing as a form of spirituality and way of
life. Real surfing, real stories, real spirituality. Reviews:
"Drawing on philosophy, religion, science, literature, and her own
experience, Leslie Kerby deftly reveals why so many of us find
solace and peace in the sea. I loved this book." Jaimal Yogis,
author of Saltwater Buddha and The Fear Project Surfing And
Spirituality is the only book I've ever read to capture the true
essence of why we are drawn to the ocean and surfing. If you surf
or just love the ocean you just "get it." Where "it" is the nearly
indescribable sensation of infinite connection and presence we feel
when riding a wave. Leslie has finally put a voice to this
spiritual calling we have to the waves. She proves without a doubt
we who ride the waves do so for much more than fun. We do it to
experience a spiritual connection that can't be found in any church
or religious practice. Incredibly well researched and written in a
decidedly academic but friendly and relatable voice. I highly
recommend Surfing And Spirituality to anyone who loves the ocean or
feels that omnipresent drive to reconnect with who we really are. -
Ryan Camana
The Essentials of Surfing is a textbook for surfing. You can't
learn to surf by reading a book, but The Essentials of Surfing will
give you the knowledge you need to be more confident about learning
to surf, avoid conflicts with other surfers, and diminish your
chances of becoming a productive member of society. The Essentials
of Surfing has useful information for surfers of all levels, but it
does not cover advanced topics, like pulling aerials, conquering
big waves, or tube riding, nor does it teach other sports like
bodysurfing, kitesurfing, or carsurfing. The Essentials of Surfing
starts out by describing waves, the main resource of surfing. It
then lists the many types of surfboards you will see in the water,
explaining which ones work best for learning and how to care for
your own board. You'll also get advice on what to wear in the water
to protect you from sun, rashes, and the cold. Most importantly,
The Essentials of Surfing lists the informal rules of surfing to
help you get along with other surfers in the line up. Surfing is
not as dangerous as driving to the beach, but The Essentials of
Surfing outlines common hazards and how you can protect yourself
from them. If this doesn't put you off, you can read a step-by-step
lesson in surfing your first wave. The Essentials of Surfing then
gives general advice on how to advance beyond the beginner level. A
glossary at the end lists some technical jargon and slang specific
to surfing. Read straight through to get the big picture. Then, use
it as a reference as you learn. When you're done, teach a friend
and give it to them. After reading The Essentials of Surfing, you
will be more informed about the realities of surfing. Maybe you'll
decide to take up surfing, or perhaps you'll realize it's not for
you. If surfing is for you, you'll be able to converse with other
surfers and know what to look in a surf shop. When you leave the
shop and head to the beach, you'll be able to better understand the
waves and what surfers are doing on them. This will help you learn
faster and smarter.
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