Mick tells his life story candidly - in turns funny, sensitive, thoughtful, self-depricating - while providing intimate insights into the personal lessons gained along the way - with practical tips on surfing technique, fitness, nutrition, board design, travel, competitive strategies and mental clarity.

Christian Beamish, a former editor at The Surfer's Journal, envisioned a low-tech, self-reliant exploration for surf along the coast of North America, using primarily clothes and instruments available to his ancestors, and the 18-foot boat he would build by hand in his garage. How the vision met reality and how the two came to shape each other places The Voyage of the Cormorant in the great American tradition of tales of life at sea, and what it has to teach us.

'A remarkable story that will appeal to those who ride a board and those who have never set foot in the water alike.' NEWCASTLE HERALD In GHOST WAVE, Chris Dixon dives deep into the fascinating history of Cortes Bank and the motley brotherhood of argumentative, damaged, brave and quirky margin walkers who discovered and scaled the tallest mountain in the sea. Along the way, he'll show how these pioneering wave-addicts changed our very understanding of the science of surfing, while giving sea-level credence to environmentalists' fears that the weather is indeed going haywire. GHOST WAVE is the result of extensive interviews not only with these surfers and those close to them, but also with psychologists who provide insights into their strange addiction to deadly waves. Dixon draws on the knowledge of oceanographers and meteorologists as well as emulating his own experience as a lifelong surfer. 'The object of my obsession for the past few years has been a sunken island 100 miles off the southern California coast called the Cortes Bank. On just the right swells, in just the right conditions, the three foot deep summit of this mile-high mountaintop produces the biggest surfable wave on the face of the earth ...'

Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890-1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America's first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original "human fish" set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of "surf-riding," an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku's connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting "Ambassador of Aloha" afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was "Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here." In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water.

The Essentials of Surfing is a textbook for surfing. You can't learn to surf by reading a book, but The Essentials of Surfing will give you the knowledge you need to be more confident about learning to surf, avoid conflicts with other surfers, and diminish your chances of becoming a productive member of society. The Essentials of Surfing has useful information for surfers of all levels, but it does not cover advanced topics, like pulling aerials, conquering big waves, or tube riding, nor does it teach other sports like bodysurfing, kitesurfing, or carsurfing. The Essentials of Surfing starts out by describing waves, the main resource of surfing. It then lists the many types of surfboards you will see in the water, explaining which ones work best for learning and how to care for your own board. You'll also get advice on what to wear in the water to protect you from sun, rashes, and the cold. Most importantly, The Essentials of Surfing lists the informal rules of surfing to help you get along with other surfers in the line up. Surfing is not as dangerous as driving to the beach, but The Essentials of Surfing outlines common hazards and how you can protect yourself from them. If this doesn't put you off, you can read a step-by-step lesson in surfing your first wave. The Essentials of Surfing then gives general advice on how to advance beyond the beginner level. A glossary at the end lists some technical jargon and slang specific to surfing. Read straight through to get the big picture. Then, use it as a reference as you learn. When you're done, teach a friend and give it to them. After reading The Essentials of Surfing, you will be more informed about the realities of surfing. Maybe you'll decide to take up surfing, or perhaps you'll realize it's not for you. If surfing is for you, you'll be able to converse with other surfers and know what to look in a surf shop. When you leave the shop and head to the beach, you'll be able to better understand the waves and what surfers are doing on them. This will help you learn faster and smarter.

"Wave Riding: The Life and Times of a Surfer" is an autobiographical surge that will take you on a whirlwind ride with dancing dolphins, beautiful sunsets, twenty-foot waves, and a flying flock of pelicans gliding along the face of a peeling wave. As a former surf instructor, I will not only teach you about the joy of wave riding, but as well as the etiquette, the culture, how the ocean works, and exactly how to surf. Also dive into my world as a wave rider since I was a little grom. Enjoy

This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human.
Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in HawaiOCyi, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the "mele "(chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
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In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favour of intangible riches like health and good cheer...all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.

"Wanted: six guys with guts " An obscure advertisement in a surf magazine sets in motion a journey through Sumatra's jungles, across volcanoes and along chaotic roads, through isolated villages and temples to the fabled Mentawai Islands and beyond. As the Island Explorer drifts deeper into the wilds, its occupants gradually lose their connection with the "real world" and start existing in their own dreamland. But the future becomes uncertain when the captain jumps ship and the stand-in skipper slowly becomes unhinged in the tropical heat. Join the quest to find pristine islands, untouched coral beaches and flawless surf. Sail through equatorial Indonesia's sparkling seas with a group of surfers searching for that elusive, ideal wave. Please note that the print version of Island Explorer does not contain the photographs that are included in the Kindle version.

An in-depth look at surfing as a form of spirituality and way of life. Real surfing, real stories, real spirituality. Reviews: "Drawing on philosophy, religion, science, literature, and her own experience, Leslie Kerby deftly reveals why so many of us find solace and peace in the sea. I loved this book." Jaimal Yogis, author of Saltwater Buddha and The Fear Project Surfing And Spirituality is the only book I've ever read to capture the true essence of why we are drawn to the ocean and surfing. If you surf or just love the ocean you just "get it." Where "it" is the nearly indescribable sensation of infinite connection and presence we feel when riding a wave. Leslie has finally put a voice to this spiritual calling we have to the waves. She proves without a doubt we who ride the waves do so for much more than fun. We do it to experience a spiritual connection that can't be found in any church or religious practice. Incredibly well researched and written in a decidedly academic but friendly and relatable voice. I highly recommend Surfing And Spirituality to anyone who loves the ocean or feels that omnipresent drive to reconnect with who we really are. - Ryan Camana

Surfing is a way of life that transcends beyond the waves and soaks into the core of our existence. Those laws of surfing, which tells us how fast to paddle, when to pop up on our board, or even how long to hold our breath when struggling to reach the surface, can and do apply to any situation in our lives whether it be work, relationships, school, health, or anything. If you're struggling with happiness in any of those situations, you have the power to change your entire life. You can surf for any of your goals with the right framework, whether it's to surf Rincon in California, North Shore of Oahu, or finding a new job. A surfer's guide to personal success is that map which tells you the mile marker to turn when searching for the break you've been looking for your entire life. I used a blend of experience, knowledge, and love of surfing in crafting this guidebook that shows you that map in a simple step by step manner. Our goals are like waves on the ocean. They keep coming, and it's up to us to decide which to ride. When you miss the ride, don't get mad at the wave, just paddle into another because the waves always come.

Hawaiians were stand up paddle surfing (known as SUP) in the '50s and '60s, but the sport was first seen on the U.S. mainland in the early 2000s, when surfers Laird Hamilton and Rick Thomas brought it to California. Now you see SUP popping up everywhere - it's ranked as the fastest growing sport in the U.S. by the Outdoor Industry Association and it has spread across the Atlantic to the UK. The inaugural UK SUP championships were held in 2008 and this is now an increasing popular branch of water sports in the UK. Longtime stand up paddler and instructor Rob Casey has authored the first and only comprehensive guide to the sport. From choosing the right gear to stroke techniques (j-stroke, Tahitian, sculling brace) and fitness advice, Rob will have you stand up paddling in no time. Specific chapters focus on flat-water paddling, paddle surfing, and river paddling to show you exactly what you need to take your SUP skills and knowledge to a specific environment. Whether you want to learn about fitness or expedition planning in flat water, how to forecast waves and current for surfing, or how to use river eddies to your advantage - it's all here in this easy-to-reference guidebook from a SUP expert.