Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazare, Portugal; Brett Lickle s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.

Before a surfing accident caused thirty-three-year-old Devon Raney to lose all but 15 percent of his vision, he had already lived an extraordinary life. Time and again he’d gone against the grain to maximize time for his passions—surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding—bringing him into the direct path of colorful characters, unexpected adventures, and even the occasional brush with death. Through it all, Devon’s commitment to outdoor adventure never wavered. If anything, he learned to approach the other commitments he would make in life—as a husband and as a father—with the same passion and dedication he’d applied to board sports. So when facing a devastating mid-life challenge, Devon once again went against the grain -- sideways. Instead of retreating into a life made smaller by the things he could no longer do—drive, build houses, read to his young daughter—Devon resolved to keep his commitments to the same passions that had defined and sustained him. Using his remaining peripheral vision, he developed a style of tandem snowboarding, figured out how to read the waves, and carried himself through his daily life in such a way that few people other than his close friends and family were aware of his vision loss. Still Sideways makes the case for the sustaining power of nature for a new generation of outdoor enthusiasts: the late Gen X / early millennial generation that has one foot firmly in adulthood and the other foot buckled into a binding. Readers will relate to Devon’s stubborn refusal to organize his life around convention and will be inspired by how his dogged devotion to shredding brings him salvation, not comeuppance, when it all hits the fan. A must-read for any mid-life adventurer, Still Sideways intersperses a gripping narrative of Devon’s incredible decade and flashbacks of formative experiences from his youth and young adulthood with humor, candor, and authenticity.

"The Surfing Tribe" is the definitive story of the history of surfing in Britain. First published in 2009, this second edition has been significantly updated and expanded with an additional 32 pages and 60 new photos. Written by renowned surf historian Roger Mansfield, the book pieces together the origins and history of the sport around the country. All the key characters are profiled, from early pioneers like Rod Sumpter to international heroes on the pro circuit like Russell Winter. The book also charts the evolution of British surfboards and looks back at the films and magazines that have portrayed the British scene over the decades.

For more than twenty-five years, FalconGuide(R) has set the standard for outdoor recreation guidebooks. Written by top outdoors experts and enthusiasts, each guide invites you to experience the endless adventure and rugged beauty of the great outdoors.
Surfing Hawaii is your comprehensive guide to the Hawaiian Islands' best breaks-from classic surf spots to lesser-known waves. Let international surfing legend Rod Sumpter show you where to ride the waves from Honolua Bay on Maui and Banzai Pipeline on Oahu to Magic Sands on the Big Island and Nawiliwili Lihue on Kauai.
Look inside for:
Complete write-ups of 68 featured surf spots, plus key info on 241 more
Best tide height, swell direction, and wave size for each featured site
Surf spots for all skill levels, from beginner to expert
The lowdown on hazards and localism
At-a-glance information on break types and best boards
Advice on avoiding the crowds and finding the breaks

Wyl Menmuir's The Draw of the Sea is a beautifully written and deeply moving portrait of the Cornish Coast and the people who make their livings there, examining the ephemeral but universal pull the sea holds over the human imagination. 'A beautiful portrait of lives shaped by the swell of ocean and tide - a powerful salt-thread of connection' - Raynor Winn, author of The Salt Path Since the earliest stages of human development, the sea has fascinated and entranced us. It feeds us, sustaining communities and providing livelihoods, but it also holds immense destructive power which can take all those away in an instant. It connects us to far away places, offering the promise of new lands and voyages of discovery, but also shapes our borders, carving divisions between landmasses and eroding the very ground beneath our feet. In this beautifully-written meditation on what it is that draws us to the waters' edge, author Wyl Menmuir tells the stories of the people whose lives revolve around the sea in the Cornish community where he lives. In twelve interlinked chapters, Menmuir explores the lives of local fishermen steeped in the rich traditions of a fishing community, the beachcombers who wander the shores in search of the varied objects which wash ashore and the stories they tell, and all number of others who have made their lives on the beautiful Cornwall coast. In the specifics of these livelihoods and their rich histories and traditions, Wyl Menmuir captures the universal human connection to the sea. Into this seductive tapestry, Wyl weaves the story of how the sea has beckoned, consoled and restored him. This book is a meaningful and moving work into how we interact with the environment around us, and how it comes to shape the course of our lives. As unmissable as it is compelling, as profound as it is personal, this must-read book will delight anyone familiar with the intimate and powerful pull which the sea holds over us.

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Join the quest to surf the biggest wave in history.

In a small fishing village on the coast of Portugal, a select band of surfers take unimaginable risks, pushing the boundaries of their death-defying sport as they seek to go bigger than ever before.

Their goal? To ride the Everest of the ocean – the 100-foot wave.

Sports journalist Matt Majendie is welcomed into the inner circle of Nazaré's tight community of big-wave surfers and extreme thrill-seekers, living among them for a season as he chronicles their incredible highs and terrifying lows.

Follow the endeavours of Britain's leading big-wave surfer, a former plumber from Devon, Andrew Cotton; trailblazing Brazilian female surfer Maya Gabeira; current World Record holder German Sebastian Steudtner; Portuguese Nic von Rupp and jet-ski driver Sérgio Cosme, nicknamed 'the Guardian Angel of Nazaré' for his daring rescues, in this gripping read.

Crowood Sports Guides are the perfect tool for anyone wanting to improve their performance, from beginners learning the basic skills to more experienced participants working on advanced techniques. These practical, no-nonsense guides will help give you that all important advantage. Fully illustrated with over 150 colour photographs, Surfing - Crowood Sports Guides covers: the history of surfing; choosing and maintaining a board; reading the ocean; skills development; advanced techniques; environmental care and surf contests and careers.

Find the Best Beach in the Keys to Dive#1 New Release in Florida Keys Travel Books and Scuba Travel Guides The newest addition to the Reef Smart series, Reef Smart Guides Florida Keys is the #1 guide to finding the best beach in the Keys to dive-from North Key Largo to the Dry Tortugas.An essential guide to exploring the Florida Keys. Whether you're looking to spice up your current dive log book or if you're looking for the perfect adventure gift to give, Reef Smart Guide Florida Keys is it! This guide helps snorkelers, swimmers, and scuba divers in the keys find the best beach in the keys-along with access points and what to expect along the way. Detailed descriptions and maps for your cool new hobby in Florida. With incredible detail, and Reef Smart's 3D rendered illustrations, learn every aspect of over 100 sites. From currents and depths to dangers and suggested routes-even reef guides and common wildlife-everything is planned out-so you can dive without a hitch! In this guide to snorkeling Florida Keys beaches, you'll find: A guide to diving in the Keys with descriptions to over 100 sites 3D rendered illustrations to prepare you for each site on your Florida adventure Information on Florida nature and species, you'll find while snorkeling Florida Keys sites If you enjoy diving books like 100 Dives of a Lifetime, Florida Bucket List Adventure Guide & Journal, or Reef Smart Guides Bonaire, you'll love Reef Smart Guide Florida Keys.

Christian Beamish, a former editor at The Surfer's Journal, envisioned a low-tech, self-reliant exploration for surf along the coast of North America, using primarily clothes and instruments available to his ancestors, and the 18-foot boat he would build by hand in his garage. How the vision met reality and how the two came to shape each other places The Voyage of the Cormorant in the great American tradition of tales of life at sea, and what it has to teach us.

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List "Without a doubt, the finest surf book I've ever read . . . " -The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses-off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly-he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui-is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Golden Daze tells the story of Australian surfing one year at a time through the lives of our greatest surfers. The book takes a deep dive into a significant year of their surfing lives. Years when they won, years when they lost. Years where their surfing and their surfboards changed the game. Grommet years when the days never ended. Years where they surfed up the coast, down the coast and globetrotted into the great unknown. Years when both surfing and society changed. Years when they made high art, experienced spiritual awakenings or were just tubed out of their minds. Even years where they survived the embrace of a great white shark. Part journal, part biography, part surf culture memoir, in Golden Daze, world renowned surf writer and bestselling author Sean Doherty gives a fascinating insight into what makes Australian surfing tick. Surfing Australia's Hall of Fame recognises the nation's most influential and iconic surfers. Every year the current members of the Hall of Fame vote to induct a new surfer. You will find all of these surfers, from Peter Troy to Tyler Wright in Golden Daze.

Finally, France has a "Stormrider Surf Guide" that covers all the incredible waves along this vast coastline. From the chilly Channel to the mild Mediterranean, there's something for everyone, helpfully written in both French and English. Beautifully illustrated by the best photographs available and crammed full of new information, this is the one and only guide to Europe's favourite surfing playground. France is the epicentre of the European surf experience and "The Stormrider Surf Guide France" takes you on an amazing tour of the entire coastline. From Calais to Corsica, the best reefs, points and beaches are all painstakingly described and large, vivid photographs bring the waves to life. The French surf culture and joie de vivre is perfectly captured in this detailed, one-of-a-kind guide. Introduction pages include travel information; oceanography; environment; surf culture. The SURF ZONES section includes stormrider symbols; spot info; accurate maps; surf business locators. And HOTSPOTS provides expanded break descriptions; multiple photos; pluses and minuses.

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing-"the Sport of Queens"-from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women's surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry-and the sport that is set to make its Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia from Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

A thrilling ethnography of big wave surfing in Hawaii that explores the sociology of fun. Straight from the beaches of Hawaii comes an exciting new ethnography of a community of big-wave surfers. Oahu's Waimea Bay attracts the world's best big wave surfers-men and women who come to test their physical strength, courage, style, knowledge of the water, and love of the ocean. Sociologist Ugo Corte sees their fun as the outcome of social interaction within a community. Both as participant and observer, he examines how mentors, novices, and peers interact to create episodes of collective fun in a dangerous setting; how they push one another's limits, nourish a lifestyle, advance the sport and, in some cases, make a living based on their passion for the sport. In Dangerous Fun, Corte traces how surfers earn and maintain a reputation within the field, and how, as innovations are introduced, and as they progress, establish themselves and age, they modify their strategies for maximizing performance and limiting chances of failure. Corte argues that fun is a social phenomenon, a pathway to solidarity rooted in the delight in actualizing the self within a social world. It is a form of group cohesion achieved through shared participation in risky interactions with uncertain outcomes. Ultimately, Corte provides an understanding of collective effervescence, emotional energy, and the interaction rituals leading to fateful moments-moments of decision that, once made, transform one's self-concept irrevocably.

Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment. 'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated

32 classic big wave surfing stories from the sport's pioneers John Long's classic collection of big wave surfing stories heralded a new era in surfing literature. Focusing on those elite athletes who live to challenge the ocean's fury, The Big Drop is more than just another surfing book. It is both an extraordinary collection of thirty-two true tales and a treasure-trove of insight into the evolution of big-wave surfing-with particular focus on the pioneers of the 1950s and 1960s and the skills necessary to challenge huge waves. Providing a comprehensive look at the sport's eras, locations, and legends, with a host of stunning images and a glossary of surfing terms, it is a truly unforgettable look at the obsession of those who face down monstrous waves. Revealing the tantalizing and terrifying truth about riding big waves, The Big Drop is a must for any surfer inclined to tackle large surf in thought or in fact.

Surfing California is your one-of-a-kind guide to more than 200 of the best breaks in the Golden State - from classic surf spots to lesser-known waves. This revised and updated, full-color guide now includes SUP-friendly spots, too--allowing surfers and paddlers alike to find the best breaks and all get along Explore the surf from the Oregon border to the Mexican border, from North Jetty in Arcata to Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz to Huntington Beach Pier in Huntington Beach.