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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Water sports & recreations > Surfing, windsurfing, water skiing
When most Americans think of surfing, they often envision waves off
the coasts of California, Hawai'i, or even New Jersey. What few
know is that the South has its own surf culture. To fully explore
this unsung surfing world, Steve Estes undertook a journey that
stretched more than 2,300 miles, traveling from the coast of Texas
to Ocean City, Maryland. Along the way he interviewed and surfed
alongside dozens of people-wealthy and poor, men and women, Black
and white-all of whom opened up about their lives, how they saw
themselves, and what the sport means to them. They also talked
about race, class, the environment, and how surfing has shaped
their identities. The cast includes a retired Mississippi riverboat
captain and alligator hunter who was one of the first to surf the
Gulf Coast of Louisiana, a Pensacola sheet-metal worker who ran the
China Beach Surf Club while he was stationed in Vietnam, and a
Daytona Beach swimsuit model who shot the curl in the 1966 World
Surfing Championships before circumnavigating the globe in search
of waves and adventure. From these varied and surprising stories
emerge a complex, sometimes troubling, but nevertheless beautiful
picture of the modern South and its people.
A thrilling ethnography of big wave surfing in Hawaii that explores
the sociology of fun. Straight from the beaches of Hawaii comes an
exciting new ethnography of a community of big-wave surfers. Oahu's
Waimea Bay attracts the world's best big wave surfers-men and women
who come to test their physical strength, courage, style, knowledge
of the water, and love of the ocean. Sociologist Ugo Corte sees
their fun as the outcome of social interaction within a community.
Both as participant and observer, he examines how mentors, novices,
and peers interact to create episodes of collective fun in a
dangerous setting; how they push one another's limits, nourish a
lifestyle, advance the sport and, in some cases, make a living
based on their passion for the sport. In Dangerous Fun, Corte
traces how surfers earn and maintain a reputation within the field,
and how, as innovations are introduced, and as they progress,
establish themselves and age, they modify their strategies for
maximizing performance and limiting chances of failure. Corte
argues that fun is a social phenomenon, a pathway to solidarity
rooted in the delight in actualizing the self within a social
world. It is a form of group cohesion achieved through shared
participation in risky interactions with uncertain outcomes.
Ultimately, Corte provides an understanding of collective
effervescence, emotional energy, and the interaction rituals
leading to fateful moments-moments of decision that, once made,
transform one's self-concept irrevocably.
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