This is the true story of Ted, Viscount Deerhurst, the son of the Earl of Coventry and an American ballerina who dedicated his life to becoming a professional surfer. Surfing was a means of escape, from England, from the fraught charges of nobility, from family, and, often, from his own demons. Ted was good on the board, but never made it to the very highest ranks of a sport that, like most, treats second-best as nowhere at all. He kept on surfing, ending up where all surfers go to live or die, the paradise of Hawaii. There, in search of the "perfect woman," he fell in love with a dancer called Lola, who worked in a Honolulu nightclub. The problem with paradise, as he was soon to discover, is that gangsters always get there first. Lola already had a serious boyfriend, a man who went by the name of Pit Bull. Ted was given fair warning to stay away. But he had a besetting sin, for which he paid the heaviest price: He never knew when to give up. Surf, Sweat and Tears takes us into the world of global surfing, revealing a dark side beneath the dazzling sun and cream-crested waves. Here is surf noir at its most compelling, a dystopian tale of one man's obsessions, wiped out in a grisly true crime.

Experience the thrill and adventure of riding the surf through this wonderful compilation of graphics and collectibles from around the globe, including California, Hawaii, Australia, Britain, and Europe. Surf legend Rod Sumpter shares his memories of the unique culture that evolved in the mid-twentieth century -- one characterized by surf, sport, beach beat, and Friday night surf stomps echoing the joy of riding big, small, and hollow waves. Surf movies were in their heyday and colorful posters, now highly collectible, announced the date and time of local showings. Enjoy this fantastic assortment of movie posters and handbills, striking magazine covers, decals, patches, vintage photographs, advertising, trophies, surf-theme record albums, and much more. Current values are included in the captions. Surfing enthusiasts everywhere will crave this nostalgic and visually exciting look at one of the world's most exhilarating sports.

Over 400 dynamic color photos and a concise text rich in facts show important developments in surfing over the last century. The ancient Polynesian heritage of surfing is presented through its introduction to the modern world by Hawaiians such as Duke Kahanamoku in the early 1900s. Emphasis is given to a later period when surfing's popularity grew steadily in southern California during the 1950s and 1960s and surf culture was assimilated into a west-coast lifestyle. The music, filmmaking, photography, design, and literature of surfing all have influenced popular culture internationally. Surfboards are shown here to have evolved from 150-pound solid redwood boards to "hollow" boards of the 1930s and lightweight foam and fiberglass boards of the 1970s. Northern Californians contributed the development of the wetsuit as an adaptation to cold water conditions. As a result, the endless summer now can be found on any beach in the world. This book is based on the exhibition "He'e Nalu: Wave Riding" presented at he San Francisco Airport Museums from October, 1997 to February, 1998.

‘Exhilarating’ Sunday Times

‘Rapturous’ Sunday Telegraph

‘A remarkable tale of grace and danger’ Financial Times

When paramedic Bruce Pike is called out to deal with another teenage adventure gone wrong, he knows better than anyone what happened and how. Thirty years before, that dead boy could have been him. Bruce remembers what it was like to be a risk-taking kid, to feel that thrill and that fear . . .

Breath by Tim Winton is the story of Bruce and his best friend Loonie, and the obsession that changed both of their lives. It is about the exhilaration of the sea and the waves, the treacherous addiction to risk, and the intoxicating power of forbidden love.

Find the Best Beach in the Keys to Dive#1 New Release in Florida Keys Travel Books and Scuba Travel Guides The newest addition to the Reef Smart series, Reef Smart Guides Florida Keys is the #1 guide to finding the best beach in the Keys to dive-from North Key Largo to the Dry Tortugas.An essential guide to exploring the Florida Keys. Whether you're looking to spice up your current dive log book or if you're looking for the perfect adventure gift to give, Reef Smart Guide Florida Keys is it! This guide helps snorkelers, swimmers, and scuba divers in the keys find the best beach in the keys-along with access points and what to expect along the way. Detailed descriptions and maps for your cool new hobby in Florida. With incredible detail, and Reef Smart's 3D rendered illustrations, learn every aspect of over 100 sites. From currents and depths to dangers and suggested routes-even reef guides and common wildlife-everything is planned out-so you can dive without a hitch! In this guide to snorkeling Florida Keys beaches, you'll find: A guide to diving in the Keys with descriptions to over 100 sites 3D rendered illustrations to prepare you for each site on your Florida adventure Information on Florida nature and species, you'll find while snorkeling Florida Keys sites If you enjoy diving books like 100 Dives of a Lifetime, Florida Bucket List Adventure Guide & Journal, or Reef Smart Guides Bonaire, you'll love Reef Smart Guide Florida Keys.

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing-"the Sport of Queens"-from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women's surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry-and the sport that is set to make its Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia from Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Before a surfing accident caused thirty-three-year-old Devon Raney to lose all but 15 percent of his vision, he had already lived an extraordinary life. Time and again he’d gone against the grain to maximize time for his passions—surfing, skateboarding, and snowboarding—bringing him into the direct path of colorful characters, unexpected adventures, and even the occasional brush with death. Through it all, Devon’s commitment to outdoor adventure never wavered. If anything, he learned to approach the other commitments he would make in life—as a husband and as a father—with the same passion and dedication he’d applied to board sports. So when facing a devastating mid-life challenge, Devon once again went against the grain -- sideways. Instead of retreating into a life made smaller by the things he could no longer do—drive, build houses, read to his young daughter—Devon resolved to keep his commitments to the same passions that had defined and sustained him. Using his remaining peripheral vision, he developed a style of tandem snowboarding, figured out how to read the waves, and carried himself through his daily life in such a way that few people other than his close friends and family were aware of his vision loss. Still Sideways makes the case for the sustaining power of nature for a new generation of outdoor enthusiasts: the late Gen X / early millennial generation that has one foot firmly in adulthood and the other foot buckled into a binding. Readers will relate to Devon’s stubborn refusal to organize his life around convention and will be inspired by how his dogged devotion to shredding brings him salvation, not comeuppance, when it all hits the fan. A must-read for any mid-life adventurer, Still Sideways intersperses a gripping narrative of Devon’s incredible decade and flashbacks of formative experiences from his youth and young adulthood with humor, candor, and authenticity.

The world-famous "Stormrider Surf Guides" have been traveling the globe for decades, shining a light on the paths less traveled. Intrepid surfers have often gone the extra mile to arrive at their destination and now they have the perfect product to plan those trips and record their exploits both in and out of the water. "The Stormrider Surf Journal" is set to become the ultimate traveling companion for both epic adventures to far off shores or the weekend warrior to a nearby beach. At once atlas, planner, and journal, mapping 300 of the best surfing zones on the planet (and when to visit), "The Stormrider Surf Journal" will serve as a personal history of one's surf life and become a treasured possession, both on the road and at home.

A deeply-rendered self-portrait of a life-long surfer by the acclaimed "New Yorker" journalist
"Barbarian Days" is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, of a complex enchantment. Surfing looks like a sport, but that's only to outsiders. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. "Barbarian Days" takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses--off the coasts of New York and San Francisco--and dramatizes the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.
Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer, and of a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly--he drops acid while riding huge Honolua Bay on Maui--is served with rueful humor. Their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, he and a buddy bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji one of the world's greatest waves. As Finnegan's travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.
"Barbarian Days" is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of a novice's gradual mastering of a demanding, little-understood art. Today, Finnegan's surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

For more than twenty-five years, FalconGuide(R) has set the standard for outdoor recreation guidebooks. Written by top outdoors experts and enthusiasts, each guide invites you to experience the endless adventure and rugged beauty of the great outdoors.
Surfing Hawaii is your comprehensive guide to the Hawaiian Islands' best breaks-from classic surf spots to lesser-known waves. Let international surfing legend Rod Sumpter show you where to ride the waves from Honolua Bay on Maui and Banzai Pipeline on Oahu to Magic Sands on the Big Island and Nawiliwili Lihue on Kauai.
Look inside for:
Complete write-ups of 68 featured surf spots, plus key info on 241 more
Best tide height, swell direction, and wave size for each featured site
Surf spots for all skill levels, from beginner to expert
The lowdown on hazards and localism
At-a-glance information on break types and best boards
Advice on avoiding the crowds and finding the breaks

Finally, France has a "Stormrider Surf Guide" that covers all the incredible waves along this vast coastline. From the chilly Channel to the mild Mediterranean, there's something for everyone, helpfully written in both French and English. Beautifully illustrated by the best photographs available and crammed full of new information, this is the one and only guide to Europe's favourite surfing playground. France is the epicentre of the European surf experience and "The Stormrider Surf Guide France" takes you on an amazing tour of the entire coastline. From Calais to Corsica, the best reefs, points and beaches are all painstakingly described and large, vivid photographs bring the waves to life. The French surf culture and joie de vivre is perfectly captured in this detailed, one-of-a-kind guide. Introduction pages include travel information; oceanography; environment; surf culture. The SURF ZONES section includes stormrider symbols; spot info; accurate maps; surf business locators. And HOTSPOTS provides expanded break descriptions; multiple photos; pluses and minuses.

Choosing the right travelling companion for that trip of a lifetime is a tough task, yet Stormrider Surf Stories makes life easy by offering something for everyone who is on a journey of enlightenment through Indonesia. This compendium of short stories brings together some of the finest tales of discovery, adventure and hardship from every corner of this surf-blessed archipelago. Join the pioneers and share their experiences as they hack their way through the jungles of Nias, the Mentawai Islands, G-Land, Sumbawa and Sumba, searching for the perfect wave around the next headland. Feel the terror as survivors recount their flirtation with disasters as big as the Boxing Day tsunami and Bali bombings or as small and personal as getting lost or falling overboard. Learn what it was really like in the early '70s on the sleepy island of Bali or jump in a sampan for a magical mystery tour of the far-flung Mentawai islands, decades before the modern, luxury, charter boats appeared. Shipwrecks, tsunamis, volcanoes, bombs, beatings, malaria and death are all cheated by an intrepid cast of trailblazers and chancers, but it's not all danger and mayhem as there are also some heart-warming narratives of love, joy and face-creasing comedy. This compendium of Stormrider Surf Stories will delight both the road-weary Indo traveller and the inquisitive intern, looking for a good ol' yarn to read during the next flat spell.

The saying goes, "The second best thing about surfing is talking about it afterward." Gerry Lopez, one of the most revered surfers of all time brings readers into the intimately personal sport with Surf Is Where You Find It, a collection of stories that recount harrowing waves, epic wipeouts, and heroes encountered over a lifetime on the water. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has traveled for surf the world over. But for him, the people stood out the most. Originally published in 2008, Surf Is Where You Find It preserves memories of surf eras gone by, and commemorates those who helped shape the surfing world today. Now, ten years and more than 50,000 copies later, Patagonia is once again re-launching the surfing classic in a fully redesigned edition with new photos. Timed to correspond with the release of a new documentary, The Yin and Yang of Gerry Lopez about Gerry produced by equally legendary surfer and skateboarder Stacy Peralta, these 38 stories and hundreds of photos offer more of Gerry than ever before. In these pages, Gerry pays homage to those who shaped surfing today -- surfing any time, anywhere, and in any way. Includes forewords by Rob Machado and The Surfer's Journal founder Steve Pezman.

Join the quest to surf the biggest wave in history. Welcome to Nazaré, home to the big-wave surfers risking it all – their search to ride the Everest of the ocean – the 100-foot wave. Sports journalist Matt Majendie is welcomed into the inner circle of Nazaré's tight community of extreme thrill-seekers, living among them for a season as he chronicles their incredible highs and terrifying lows. Join a cast of fascinating characters, from surfing scientists to big-wave addicts, as they battle fear, each other and nature itself.

"The Surfing Tribe" is the definitive story of the history of surfing in Britain. First published in 2009, this second edition has been significantly updated and expanded with an additional 32 pages and 60 new photos. Written by renowned surf historian Roger Mansfield, the book pieces together the origins and history of the sport around the country. All the key characters are profiled, from early pioneers like Rod Sumpter to international heroes on the pro circuit like Russell Winter. The book also charts the evolution of British surfboards and looks back at the films and magazines that have portrayed the British scene over the decades.

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

Far beyond a simple sporting act, surfing is a fascinating lifestyle choice, involving a broad spectrum of techniques and skills, athleticism, wave knowledge and above all, fun. While more and more people get hooked on surfing every day, there are relatively few books or references available for improving knowledge and performance. Didier Piter, four-time European champion and acknowledged surf coach, and world-renowned photographer Bernard Testemale present a unique work covering all useful fundamentals for becoming a complete surfer. From understanding ocean phenomena to technical breakdowns for all surfing manoeuvres, you are invited to share the authors' passion and experience. "Secrets Of Progressive Surfing" is not your average learn-to-surf book aimed at getting beginners up and riding. This is a detailed analysis of what it takes to master just about every manoeuvre in the book, from the humble take-off to the modern aerial and everything in between. The text is clear and understandable, broken down into logical step by step progressions, shedding light on the techniques used by the pros. And what better pro to demonstrate the required skills in beautifully photographed sequences than Kelly Slater, 11 times World Champ, who plays a starring role in this incredible book that has something for every surfer on the planet. This book features 162 pages of keys and secrets to the surfing world, prefaced by Kelly Slater, for surfers of all levels eager to further their understanding and appreciation of the sport of kings. A leading European surfer through the 90's, Didier Piter naturally made the transition to coaching in 2001. Ever focused on the synergy between surfer and wave and technical aspects of high performance surfing, he has coached most of today's top European surfers. Still sharing his passion and experience with a leading surf team, he stands at the forefront of European surf coaching. Having contributed for fifteen years to the finest surf publications in the world, Bernard Testemale has become a leading light in surfing photography. Renowned and respected among his peers, he has been part of numerous projects around the world's oceans in the quest for swells, locations and fine imagery, enthusiastically working with some of the very best surfers in the world.

Skateboarding legend Jay Adams s sudden and unexpected death at the age of fifty-three shocked the world. Media outlets including the New York Times, the Washington Post, CNN, the Hollywood Reporter, ESPN, MTV, the Telegraph, and People magazine to name only a few, paid tribute to Jay Adams; the broad coverage he received speaks to the immense influence Adams had on the sport of skateboarding and the subsequent culture he helped grow and shape. Universe is pleased to bring back into print the little-known book of photographs of Jay Adams s earliest days as a surfer and skateboarder, taken by his stepfather Kent Sherwood. Sherwood is directly responsible for unleashing Adams s talent on the world: he introduced Adams at a very young age to surfing and skateboarding. Sherwood, a self-taught photographer, began shooting the young Jay Adams at play, surfing, and skating with his friends, including Tony Alva, Wentzle Ruml, and Shogo Kubo, among others. Jay Boy is an endearing, intimate look at the gifted Adams and his friends, and includes sweet and revealing thoughts about his past, written in his own hand before he passed away. It is certain to appeal to any fan of skateboarding.

Sam Bleakley and the surf EXPLORE team take us on a roller coaster ride through Gabon, India, Vietnam, Algeria, China and Haiti, drumming up a tropical beat. Combining 'Deep Travel', John Callahan's incredible photography and Sam's performance writing, they capture the spirit of these turbulent coast scapes, blood racing, running on salt water fuel. The wide belt around the Equator - the tropics - has become an alluring path for travel, but a region often steeped in war and environmental disasters. Sam and surf EXPLORE go off the regular route, carving a niche, collaborating with locals, documenting the occasion poetically and with precision. Where 'waves transform from green glass to white foam, the surfboard is the frozen double of that transition - a rainbow bridge that allows you to step in the blink of an eye from inertia to adrenaline-fuelled ecstasy to the fear of the water-wrestling hold-down.' The paradoxical red hot and cool blue of surfing, and the often icy logic of preparation for challenging travel, form a matrix from which springs a distinctive kind of writing as performance. By turns, surf EXPLORE gather their wits at the cross roads where 'lovers part and souls get taken by the lost high way, lured down the wrong route.'

In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara-affectionately known as GMac-set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes-to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn't just thrill seeking, he explains-it's about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara's story-as they have William Finnegan's Barbarian Days-an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.

Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the boundaries in the gladiator arena of Pe ahi (Jaws), Maui; Peter Mel on riding the greatest wave ever caught at Mavericks, California; Keala Kennelly breaking the women s glass ceiling at the death-defying slabs of Teahupoo, Tahiti; Kai Lenny and Lucas Chumbo s groundbreaking wins at the incredible Nazare, Portugal; Brett Lickle s epic incident at the mystical Pyramids with Laird Hamilton, and many more. Accompanying stunning photographs from the world s top surf photographers capture the drama of life and death, and the unwavering commitment of these brave extreme athletes.