The Essentials of Surfing is a textbook for surfing. You can't learn to surf by reading a book, but The Essentials of Surfing will give you the knowledge you need to be more confident about learning to surf, avoid conflicts with other surfers, and diminish your chances of becoming a productive member of society. The Essentials of Surfing has useful information for surfers of all levels, but it does not cover advanced topics, like pulling aerials, conquering big waves, or tube riding, nor does it teach other sports like bodysurfing, kitesurfing, or carsurfing. The Essentials of Surfing starts out by describing waves, the main resource of surfing. It then lists the many types of surfboards you will see in the water, explaining which ones work best for learning and how to care for your own board. You'll also get advice on what to wear in the water to protect you from sun, rashes, and the cold. Most importantly, The Essentials of Surfing lists the informal rules of surfing to help you get along with other surfers in the line up. Surfing is not as dangerous as driving to the beach, but The Essentials of Surfing outlines common hazards and how you can protect yourself from them. If this doesn't put you off, you can read a step-by-step lesson in surfing your first wave. The Essentials of Surfing then gives general advice on how to advance beyond the beginner level. A glossary at the end lists some technical jargon and slang specific to surfing. Read straight through to get the big picture. Then, use it as a reference as you learn. When you're done, teach a friend and give it to them. After reading The Essentials of Surfing, you will be more informed about the realities of surfing. Maybe you'll decide to take up surfing, or perhaps you'll realize it's not for you. If surfing is for you, you'll be able to converse with other surfers and know what to look in a surf shop. When you leave the shop and head to the beach, you'll be able to better understand the waves and what surfers are doing on them. This will help you learn faster and smarter.

In 1956, Dorian "Doc" Paskowitz stepped away from a successful medical practice and began a lifelong surfing odyssey that grew to include his wife Juliette, and their nine children. Together, the Paskowitz clan lived a vagabonding bohemian existence, eschewing material possessions in favour of intangible riches like health and good cheer...all the while careening along the world's coastlines in search of the perfect wave. In Scratching the Horizon, Izzy Paskowitz looks back at his unusual upbringing, and his lifelong passion for the sport that carries his family's stamp. As the fourth-oldest child in a family of inveterate surfers, rock stars, and beach bums, he is uniquely qualified to shine a light on a childhood that has come to symbolize the surfing credo, a reckless young adulthood that nearly cost him his sanity, and a maturing sense of self and purpose that allows him to lift others on the back of his experience. As the father of a son with autism and the founder of "Surfers Healing," a foundation devoted to expanding the horizons of children with autism through surfing, Paskowitz has found a way to connect the surreal aspects of his childhood to the harsh realities of adulthood, and he shares these discoveries in this wickedly entertaining and transforming memoir.

You're young, in love, and in paradise ... surfing, traveling, partying. Then in one terrifying wave of heat and noise your reality shatters into a million pieces that can never be put back together. On October 12, 2002, a massive car bomb ripped through the popular Kuta nightclub, the Sari Club, killing 202 people and maiming many others. Hanabeth Luke was hamming it up on the dance floor to cheesy pop tunes with a friend when a loud bang, like a car back-firing, momentarily silenced the music and dimmed the lights. Dancers stopped and heads turned, but the music and flashing lights soon came back on and the party resumed. But only for a few seconds ... "The noise which came next I will never forget. It was an empty sound that did not resonate. It was a thud, like the slam of a car door, but multiplied to a volume I simply cannot describe," Hanabeth writes in this extraordinary memoir. Hanabeth survived the Bali Bomb, somehow crawling through the flaming wreckage and using fallen electrical cables to shimmy over a four metre high concrete wall. But her boyfriend Marc Gajardo was killed instantly in the blast. The heart-wrenching story of young love, and lives, cut short is chilling and confronting, . Her raw and honest account of those dreadful events brings the spectre of terrorism into sharp and intensely personal focus. Yet it is the story of what Hanabeth has done since which brings a spark of hope and light to this awful chapter in our history. Confronting world leaders, campaigning for peace and against the war on terror, raising money and awareness, resolving to squeeze the most from every day, Hanabeth's inspirational tale provides a stirring case study in survival and healing.

Time Barrel looks at time distortion experienced by surfers getting barreled. This book highlights the colorful quotes contributed by surfers describing their experience of time in the barrel. An academic summary and dissertation are presented herein with references for students and researchers interested in subjective time, flow theory, the surfer population in research, and social media in qualitative research. Look for a video in the future. Thanks to all of the athletes who participated in this study and all of the surfers on http: //www.facebook.com/DrCynthiaPeterson.

The original and still most detailed guide book for surfers heading to Mexico's surf-packed Baja peninsula. This guide features over 120 surf spots, including the legendary points, reefs, beachbreaks and even islands. From Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas and around to the East Cape, with surf maps, surf travel tips, wave height chart, tips on when to surf where, accommodations and more. Created in the same style as the very popular THE SURFER'S GUIDE TO COSTA RICA & SW NICARAGUA as it's written by the same author. There is no better guide for surfers heading to Baja.

In "Surfer Girls in the New World Order," Krista Comer explores surfing as a local and global subculture, looking at how the culture of surfing has affected and been affected by girls, from baby boomers to members of Generation Y. Her analysis encompasses the dynamics of international surf tourism in Sayulita, Mexico, where foreign women, mostly middle-class Americans, learn to ride the waves at a premier surf camp and local women work as manicurists, maids, waitresses, and store clerks in the burgeoning tourist economy. In recent years, "surfistas," Mexican women and girl surfers, have been drawn to the Pacific coastal town's clean reef-breaking waves. Comer discusses a write-in candidate for mayor of San Diego, whose political activism grew out of surfing and a desire to protect the threatened ecosystems of surf spots; the owners of the girl-focused Paradise Surf Shop in Santa Cruz and Surf Diva in San Diego; and the observant Muslim woman who started a business in her Huntington Beach home, selling swimsuits that fully cover the body and head. Comer also examines the Roxy Girl series of novels sponsored by the surfwear company Quiksilver, the biography of the champion surfer Lisa Andersen, the "Gidget" novels and films, the movie "Blue Crush," and the book "Surf Diva: A Girl's Guide to Getting Good Waves." She develops the concept of "girl localism" to argue that the experience of fighting for waves and respect in male-majority surf breaks, along with advocating for the health and sustainable development of coastal towns and waterways, has politicized surfer girls around the world.

The most most detailed, most current and best selling surf guide to Costa Rica, now includes Central America's new surfing hot spot, Nicaragua. Features over 100 surf spots on both the Pacific and Caribbean coasts and over 100 hotels, condos, surf camps and other rentals nearest the surf breaks. Includes a helpful surf travel tips including which surf supplies to pack and how to pack surfboards. Many surf maps and helpful driving directions to the surf breaks. Not a coffee table picture book or pocket guide. This is a comprehensive, down-and-dirty, backpack ready surf guide for surfers planning their Costa Rica and Nicaragua surf trips.

Surfing South Africa is a simple, down-to-earth exploration of the country's top surfing destinations, from the most popular spots which feature widely on the local, national – and international – surfing event calendar to those secret hideaways that surfers like to keep to themselves. This account examines not only the waves that are to be caught off South Africa's beaches, but what lies beyond and beneath - which beach offers the world's best ice cream, which is South Africa's most sought-after wave, and even how geological phenomena affect the impact of waves on southern Africa's shoreline. Funny, irreverent and forthright, this is a must-have guide to the beaches and shores of the continent’s most popular surfing playground.

'Tim Baker may well be the most brilliant and incisive surf writer working today, or on any givenday for the last twenty years.' worldprosurfers.com Leading surf journalist Tim Baker has profiled the surfing world's most inspiring characters, encountered over two decades of surf writing, to highlight the life lessons and boundless inspiration to be gained from a lifestyle built around waveriding. From salty old surf legends to modern pro-surf stars, to surfers from all walks of life -- writers, musicians, aid workers, ethicists -- the common theme in all these surfers' lives is how their personal journeys have been shaped and informed by their experiences in the ocean. 'I think one of the most powerful outcomes of surfing is how it creates community and shared experiences across all sections of society. Surfing is a lingua franca of nature. Even dolphins and other sea creatures surf.' Vezen Wu, scientist 'Just the feeling of the water on you, diving and paddling, duck-diving your first wave, seeing a set come, turning around and stroking into it, that initial rush as you drop down the face, the jolts of acceleration as you go through the manoeuvres - there's nothing like it. The only thing that actually comes close to riding waves is sex.' Mark Richards, four-time world surfing champion 5% of author royalties from this book will be distributed to the following charities: Surf Aid International; Disabled Surfers Association; Life Rolls On; Surfers Healing; Surfrider Foundation

Surfing is an exotic sport that fascinates and excites us. Surfers are daring athletes who challenge the mighty waves of oceans. Find out what makes a person wake up at dawn to take thrilling rides on these enormous waves! In Extreme Surfing, kids will discover - the etiquette of surfing - the many types of surfboards and how to care for them - great places to surf around the world - the rich history of surfing, which began as an ancient Polynesian tradition

The evolution of the surfboard, from traditional Hawaiian folk designs to masterpieces of mathematical engineering to mass-produced fiberglass. Surfboards were once made of wood and shaped by hand, objects of both cultural and recreational significance. Today most surfboards are mass-produced with fiberglass and a stew of petrochemicals, moving (or floating) billboards for athletes and their brands, emphasizing the commercial rather than the cultural. Surf Craft maps this evolution, examining surfboard design and craft with 150 color images and an insightful text. From the ancient Hawaiian alaia, the traditional board of the common people, to the unadorned boards designed with mathematical precision (but built by hand) by Bob Simmons, to the store-bought longboards popularized by the 1959 surf-exploitation movie Gidget, board design reflects both aesthetics and history. The decline of traditional alaia board riding is not only an example of a lost art but also a metaphor for the disintegration of traditional culture after the Republic of Hawaii was overthrown and annexed in the 1890s. In his text, Richard Kenvin looks at the craft and design of surfboards from a historical and cultural perspective. He views board design as an exemplary model of mingei, or art of the people, and the craft philosophy of Soetsu Yanagi. Yanagi believed that a design's true beauty and purpose are revealed when it is put to its intended use. In its purest form, the craft of board building, along with the act of surfing itself, exemplifies mingei. Surf Craft pays particular attention to Bob Simmons's boards, which are striking examples of this kind of functional design, mirroring the work of postwar modern California designers. Surf Craft is published in conjunction with an exhibition at San Diego's Mingei International Museum.

In Camille Duvall's Instructional Guide to Water Skiing, Duvall, a five-time world-champion water-skier, offers instruction, advice about equipment, and tips on competition for the more than 16 million water skiing enthusiasts nationwide. Duvall explains the basic skills and introduces techniques of trick skiing and jumping as well as advice on building a slalom course and boat driving

The evolution of surfing-from the first forms of wave-riding in Oceania, Africa, and the Americas to the inauguration of surfing as a competitive sport at the 2020 Tokyo Olympics-traverses the age of empire, the rise of globalization, and the onset of the digital age, taking on new meanings at each juncture. As corporations have sought to promote surfing as a lifestyle and leisure enterprise, the sport has also narrated its own epic myths that place North America at the center of surf culture and relegate Hawai'i and other indigenous surfing cultures to the margins. The Critical Surf Studies Reader brings together eighteen interdisciplinary essays that explore surfing's history and development as a practice embedded in complex and sometimes oppositional social, political, economic, and cultural relations. Refocusing the history and culture of surfing, this volume pays particular attention to reclaiming the roles that women, indigenous peoples, and people of color have played in surfing. Contributors. Douglas Booth, Peter Brosius, Robin Canniford, Krista Comer, Kevin Dawson, Clifton Evers, Chris Gibson, Dina Gilio-Whitaker, Dexter Zavalza Hough-Snee, Scott Laderman, Kristin Lawler, lisahunter, Colleen McGloin, Patrick Moser, Tara Ruttenberg, Cori Schumacher, Alexander Sotelo Eastman, Glen Thompson, Isaiah Helekunihi Walker, Andrew Warren, Belinda Wheaton

Surfing today evokes many things: thundering waves, warm beaches, bikinis and lifeguards, and carefree pleasure. But is the story of surfing really as simple as popular culture suggests? In this first international political history of the sport, Scott Laderman shows that while wave riding is indeed capable of stimulating tremendous pleasure, its globalization went hand in hand with the blood and repression of the long twentieth century.
Emerging as an imperial instrument in post-annexation Hawaii, spawning a form of tourism that conquered the littoral Third World, tracing the struggle against South African apartheid, and employed as a diplomatic weapon in America's Cold War arsenal, the saga of modern surfing is only partially captured by Gidget, the Beach Boys, and the film "Blue Crush." From nineteenth-century American empire-building in the Pacific to the low-wage labor of the surf industry today, Laderman argues that surfing in fact closely mirrored American foreign relations. Yet despite its less-than-golden past, the sport continues to captivate people worldwide.
Whether in El Salvador or Indonesia or points between, the modern history of this cherished pastime is hardly an uncomplicated story of beachside bliss. Sometimes messy, occasionally contentious, but never dull, surfing offers us a whole new way of viewing our globalized world.

Fit to Surf, a cutting-edge surfing-specific fitness guide, supplies surfers of all levels of experience with everything they need to create a personal fitness program that builds strength and endurance, increases balance and coordination, and minimizes the risk of injury.

Personal trainer Rocky Snyder--himself an avid surfer with two decades of experience riding the waves--provides easy to-follow, step-by-step instructions supplemented with 60photographs of conditioning exercises that can be performed at home, in the gym, or on the water.

This first major examination the interrelationships of music and surfing explores different ways that surfers combine surfing with making and listening to music. Tim Cooley uses his knowledge and experience as a practicing musician and avid surfer to consider the musical practices of surfers in locations around the world, taking into account ideas about surfing as a global affinity group and the real-life stories of surfers and musicians he encounters. In doing so, he expands ethnomusicological thinking about the many ways musical practices are integral to human socializing, creativity, and the condition of being human.
Cooley discusses the origins of surfing in HawaiOCyi, its central role in Hawaiian society, and the "mele "(chants) and hula (dance or visual poetry) about surfing. He covers instrumental rock from groups like Dick Dale and the Del Tones and many others, and songs about surfing performed by the Beach Boys. As he traces trends globally, three broad styles emerge: surf music, punk rock, and acoustic singer-songwriter music. Cooley also examines surfing contests and music festivals as well as the music used in a selection surf movies that were particularly influential in shaping the musical practices of significant groups of surfers. Engaging, informative, and enlightening, this book is a fascinating exploration of surfing as a cultural practice with accompanying rituals, habits, and conceptions about who surfs and why, and of how musical ideas and practices are key to the many things that surfing is and aspires to be.
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Over the last forty years, surfing has emerged from its Pacific islands origins to become a global industry. Since its beginnings more than a thousand years ago, surfing’s icon has been the surf- board—its essential instrument, the point of physical connection between human and nature, body and wave. Based on research in three important surfing locations—Hawai‘i, southern California, and southeastern Australia—this is the first book to trace the surf- board from regional craft tradition to its key role in the billion-dollar surfing business. Hawai‘i, California, and Australia are much more than sites of surfboard manufacturing. Their surfboard workshops are hives of creativity where legacies of rich cultural heritage and the local environment combine to produce unique, bold board designs customized to suit prevailing waves. The authors follow the story of board makers who have survived these challenges and explores the heritage of the craft, the secrets of custom board production, the role of local geography in shaping board styles, and the survival of hand-crafting skills. From the olo boards of ancient Hawaiian kahuna to the high- tech designs that represent the current state of the industry, Surfing Places, Surfboard Makers offers an entre?e into the world of surf- board making that will find an eager audience among researchers and students of Pacific culture, history, geography, and economics, as well as surfing enthusiasts.

CORRECTION: Regarding the book, The Battle for Paradise by Jeremy Evans, the following correction has been made on page 163 in paragraph three (3) to wit: "Weston once worked in concert with government officials in a pre-planned sting operation, complete with marked bills: Weston, whose role in the operation involved paying a bribe to the Golfito mayor for a concession and then documenting the bribe as a way to expose the mayor as a corrupt government official, was a former cocaine dealer, according to Dan, and someone who illegally acquired possession of his sawmill property." Pavones, a town located on the southern tip of Costa Rica, is a haven for surfers, expatriates, and fishermen seeking a place to start over. Located on the Golfo Dulce (Sweet Gulf), a marine sanctuary and one of the few tropical fjords in the world, Pavones is home to a legendary surf break and a cottage fishing industry. In 2004 a multinational company received approval to install the world's first yellowfin tuna farm near the mouth of the Golfo Dulce. The tuna farm as planned would pollute the area, endanger sea turtles, affect the existing fish population, and threaten the world-class wave. A lawsuit was filed just in time, and the project was successfully stalled. Thus began an unlikely alliance of local surfers, fishermen, and global environmental groups to save a wave and one of the most biodiverse places on the planet. In The Battle for Paradise, Jeremy Evans travels to Pavones to uncover the story of how this ragtag group stood up to a multinational company and how a shadowy figure from the town's violent past became an unlikely hero. In this harrowing but ultimately inspiring story, Evans focuses in turn on a colorful cast of characters with an unyielding love for the ocean and surfing, a company's unscrupulous efforts to expand profits, and a government that nearly sold out the perfect wave.

In this thrilling and candid memoir, world record-holding and controversial Big Wave surfer Garrett McNamara chronicles his emotional quest to ride the most formidable waves on earth. Garrett McNamara-affectionately known as GMac-set the world record for the sport, surfing a seventy-eight-foot wave in Nazare, Portugal in 2011, a record he smashed two years later at the same break. Propelled by the challenge and promise of bigger, more difficult waves, this adrenaline-fueled loner and polarizing figure travels the globe to ride the most dangerous swells the oceans have to offer, from calving glaciers to hurricane swells. But what motivates McNamara to go to such extremes-to risk everything for one thrilling ride? Is riding giant waves the ultimate exercise in control or surrender? Personal and emotional, readers will know GMac as never before, seeing for the first time the personal alongside the professional in an exciting, intimate look at what drives this inventive, iconoclastic man. Surfing awesome giants isn't just thrill seeking, he explains-it's about vanquishing fears and defeating obstacles past and present. Surfers and non-surfers alike will embrace McNamara's story-as they have William Finnegan's Barbarian Days-an its intimate look at the enigmatic pursuit of riding waves, big and small. Hound of the Sea is a record of perseverance, passion, and healing. Thoughtful, suspenseful, and spiritually profound, McNamara reveals the beautiful soul of surfing through the eyes of one of its most daring and devoted disciples.