When thinking about lowering or changing consumption to lower carbon footprints, the obvious offenders come easily to mind: petroleum and petroleum products, paper and plastic, even food. But not clothes. Although the clothing industry is the second largest polluter after agriculture, most consumers do not think of clothes as a source of environmental damage. The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and its Negative Impact on Environment and Society exposes how clever marketing tactics designed to increase demand skillfully hide this reality. An in-depth examination of the international fashion trade and related goods, this book raises visibility of the ethical aspects of promoting overconsumption through explaining the ecological damage resulting from the high rate of discarding old clothes. It focuses on the promotion, globalization, and integration of the apparel sector into our social and political landscape. It presents an expert overview of the garment industry, highlighting the harsh realities of the environmental and labor problems associated with it. It tracks the commercial and cultural factors that have led to the growth of fast fashion retail and its dominance of the entire industry. The book covers current regulatory policies, both national and international, on production and labor, and the author does not shy away from making recommendations for change. He examines marketing, business, and economic models to explain how assumptions of traditional economic theory on industrial growth and prosperity fall short in addressing the high social costs of promoting the overconsumption of cheap and readily disposable clothes. You will come away with a detailed, holistic understanding of the garment industry as well as clarity regarding the larger issue of finding balance when it comes to the ethics of consumption.

This detailed study is the first exploration of rural consumption of clothing in early nineteenth-century Britain. Drawing on evidence from a range of sources including newspapers, trade directories, court records, visual sources and surviving garments, Toplis investigates how the apparel of the mass of the British population was acquired.

This book includes fundamentals of textile processing technology with explanation of craft techniques, various stages of processing fibres and yarns with useful, readily understandable, line drawings. Fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths have been explained and material is supported by glossary and explanation of processing stages from fibre to finished cloth. Further, the considerations of relevance to the development and preparation of a design collection are outlined and discussed. Various testing procedures, including fibre, yarn and cloth identification methods, and important innovations in textile products and processing are identified and explained as well. Focused mainly on the needs of students specializing in textile or fashion design, at first year undergraduate university level, this book: Covers all stages from fibre to finished cloth. Discusses various stages of processing fibres and yarns. Explains fibrous types, dyes, yarns and cloths supported by relevant glossary. Presents explanations of both tactile and aesthetic aspects of textiles used in clothing.

The aim of this book is to track the historical origins of China's economic reforms. From the 1920s and 1930s strong ties were built between Chinese textile industrialists and foreign machinery importers in Shanghai and the Yangzi Delta. Despite the fragmentation of China, the contribution of these networks to the modernization of the country was important and longstanding. Facing the challenge of growing in a fragmented country, Chinese textile firms such as Dafeng, Dacheng and Lixin focused on urban markets and also on importing technology for upgrading their production. When the war against Japan blocked trade routes inside China, these networks were concentrated in Shanghai where they envisaged an export-oriented development strategy for China that was based on importing machinery and exporting manufactured products. However, this strategy was only implemented precariously in Shanghai, while the city stood as a neutral space in the first years of the Japanese occupation, but was only consolidated in Hong Kong in the late 1940s, where textile industrialist and most of the foreign importers migrated. These networks were thus reestablished in Hong Kong, where they contributed to the city's industrialization in the Cold War period. Meanwhile, the Chinese industrialists that stayed in Shanghai and the Yangzi Delta had to adapt to the Maoist regime and were progressively incorporated into the state-owned companies or the local government agencies such as the United Front or the Textile bureaus. However, from the early 1970s, the links between Hong Kong and Shanghai were reactivated and these networks played, again, a key role in the modernization of China, especially regarding the imports of technology and exports of manufactured goods. The book ends with the first joint-ventures between Hong Kong businessmen and Chinese local administrations that took place in the beginnings of China's economic reforms in 1979.

A visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes - colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: * case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; * Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, * new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: * generate your idea; * work to develop it; and, * create your developed idea in the studio. By engaging with this approach, and exploring new ways of seeing ordinary things through the key themes, you'll learn to create incredible effects in your textile design.

Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the 'fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.

In this essential introduction to contemporary printed textile design, designer and educator Alex Russell explores creative and commercial studio practice, including: - developing sophisticated skills with image and colour - how to make effective use of context in your work - strategies for a career in design You'll learn how history and technology shape print design, plus how to balance innovation with industry requirements, including fashion, home interiors, giftware and stationery. There's practical advice on developing a professional portfolio, and how good communication skills can get your work noticed. This updated edition includes expanded sections on digital design and social media, and their impact on portfolio development, manufacturing, and promotion, as well as advice on establishing an ethical, sustainable practice for the future.

This book highlights the traditional boundaries of the textile industry and discusses to what extent organic cotton is sustainable. It also examines the domestic and international influences of agricultural practices on cotton. Sustainability issues in the textile and fashion sectors require the influences that arise from beyond the boundaries of the conventional textile industry to be taken into account. These "external" influences-from (international or domestic) agricultural practices and energy policies to consumption patterns and levels of ecological notions of the society-have a significant impact on the sustainability of the textile and fashion sectors as a whole. Ecological and social concerns go far beyond individual companies and industries; therefore, in order to become more sustainable, the textile (and fashion) industry needs to address these concerns appropriately and connect with other disciplines, industries, communities, and international groups.

You know shoddy: an adjective meaning cheap and likely poorly made. But did you know that before it became a popular descriptor, shoddy was first coined as a noun? In the early nineteenth century, shoddy was the name given to a new textile material made from reclaimed wool. Shoddy was, in fact, one of the earliest forms of industrial recycling as old rags and fabric clippings were ground into "devil's dust" and respun to be used in the making of suits, army uniforms, carpet lining, mattress stuffing, and more. In Shoddy, Hanna Rose Shell takes readers on a vivid ride beginning in West Yorkshire's Heavy Woollen District and its "shoddy towns," and traveling to the United States, the third world, and waste dumps, textile labs, and rag shredding factories, in order to unravel the threads of this story and its long history. Since the time of its first appearance, shoddy had become both pervasive and politically and culturally controversial on multiple levels. The use of the term "virgin" wool--still noticeable today in the labels on our sweaters--thus emerged as an effort by the wool industry to counter shoddy's appeal: to make shoddy seem shoddy. Public health experts, with encouragement from the wool industry, worried about sanitation and disease--how could old clothes be disinfected? As well, the idea of wearing someone else's old clothes so close to your own skin was discomforting in and of itself. Could you sleep peacefully knowing that your mattress was stuffed with dead soldiers' overcoats? Over time, shoddy the noun was increasingly used as an adjective that, according to Shell, captured a host of personal, ethical, commercial, and societal failings. Introducing us to many richly drawn characters along the way, Shell reveals an interwoven tale of industrial espionage, political infighting, scientific inquiry, ethnic prejudices, and war profiteering. By exploring a variety of sources from political and literary texts to fabric samples and old military uniforms, antique and art photographs and political cartoons, medical textbooks, and legal cases, Shell unspools the history of shoddy to uncover the surprising journey that individual strands of recycled wool - and more recently a whole range of synthetic fibers from nylon to Kevlar - may take over the course of several lifetimes. Not only in your garments and blankets, but under your rug, in your mattress pads, the peculiar confetti-like stuffing in your mailing envelopes, even the insulation in your walls. The resulting fabric is at once rich and sumptuous, and cheap and tawdry--and likely connected to something you are wearing right now. After reading, you will never use the word shoddy or think about your clothes, or even the world around you, the same way again.

"No other book compares...This is the book students reference during their four years at university." - Tara Konya, Southern New Hampshire University, USA Learn how fashion lines are designed, manufactured, marketed, and distributed. The book covers the full supply chain - from textiles to fashion brand production - as well as supply chain management, and competitive strategies, so that you can be successful in your future career. Topics covered include sustainable design for a circular economy, 3-D printing, fashion entrepreneurship, disruptions in fashion calendars, supply chain transparency, impact of social media, growth and evolution of online retailing, expanded omnichannel strategies, and changes in international trade, among others. Case studies, a Career Glossary, and key terms help you connect concepts to practice. New to this Edition * Content addresses knowledge and skill guidelines in the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB) and Textile and Apparel Program Accreditation Commission (TAPAC) accreditation standards * Expanded discussions of sustainability, corporate social responsibility, and technology across the supply chains for fashion products * Updated and expanded industry examples and case studies, emphasizing fashion brand companies from around the world * A new Careers Glossary listing job titles and descriptions found throughout the fashion industry The Business of Fashion STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

"It's a great, strong read. Lots of information if you don't have background knowledge of this topic." Carmen Carter, El Centro College, USA "The text is a thorough view of fashion forecasting that helps students understand this segment of the industry as well as identify the steps and skills required to pursue a career as a fashion forecaster." Amy Harden, Ball State University, USA Learn how to anticipate emerging trends and how to prepare and present your own fashion forecast. Three new chapters on fashion eras, world cultures, and subcultures show you influences on fashion innovation yesterday and today, so that you can spot those of tomorrow. New Influencer profiles focus on trend creators, rather than trend popularizers, to show you how to find key people from many creative fields who shape popular fashion. A new appendix covers how to create a fashion forecast and a streamlined chapter organization is concise without sacrificing depth. Includes 125 color illustrations. Within the STUDIO, students will be able to: Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

This third of the three volume series highlights the intricate relationship in the handloom industry between its culture and the various areas of sustainability. While there have been major disruptions in this age old industry, this volume presents the design, development and environmental aspects to keep the industry moving ahead. The book contains seven chapters written by leading experts in the areas and discusses means to revive some of the cultures that are on the verge of closing/shutting down.

This book offers a multidisciplinary perspective on research and developments at the interface between industrial design, textile engineering and fashion. It covers advances in fashion and product design, and in textile production alike, reporting on smart and sustainable industrial procedures and 3D printing, issues in marketing and communication, and topics concerning social responsibility, sustainability, emotions, creativity and education. It highlights research that is expected to foster the development of design and fashion on a global and interdisciplinary scale. Gathering the proceedings of the 5th International Fashion and Design Congress, CIMODE 2022, held on July 4-7, 2022, in Guimaraes, Portugal, this book offers extensive information and a source of inspiration to both researchers and professionals in the field of fashion, design, engineering, communication as well as education.

This book highlights the sustainable aspects of fashion and textiles in Latin America and discusses how the manufacturing and consumption of textile products and fashion are significant sources of environmental damage. It addresses important issues of water and energy consumption in the textile and fashion industry and using case studies presents how social responsibilities in consumer behavior can help in minimizing these environmental issues for a better future.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

Cotton textile industries vanished from much of East Africa during the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. This book investigates the underlying causes of industrial arrest in the region through a series of in-depth case studies. Findings are considered in light of existing studies on comparatively more resilient textile centers elsewhere on the continent to derive insights into the determinants of differing industrial trajectories across sub-Saharan Africa. The author argues that scholars have placed undue weight on global forces as the primary drivers of industrial decline in the Global South. Rather, this book reveals how local factors - principally demographic, geographic, and institutional features - interacted with external forces to influence unique regional outcomes during the nineteenth and twentieth centuries as sub-Saharan African was increasingly integrated into global trade networks and European colonial empires.

This book examines the manufacturing, supply chain and product-level sustainability of leather and footwear products. This book deals with the environmental and chemical sustainability aspects pertaining to the tanning supply chain and the related mitigation measures. The book also explores interesting areas of leather and footwear sustainability, such as waste & the 3R's and their certification for sustainability. At the product level, the book covers advanced topics like the circular economy and blockchain technology for leather and footwear products and addresses innovation development and eco-material use in footwear by investigating environmental sustainability and the use of bacterial cellulose, a potential sustainable alternative for footwear and leather products.

This book reveals the business history of the Australian Government Clothing Factory as it introduced innovative changes in the production and design of the Australian Army uniform during the twentieth century. While adopting a Schumpeterian interpretation of the concept of innovation, Anneke van Mosseveld traces the driving forces behind innovation and delivers a comprehensive explanation of the resulting changes in the combat uniform. Using an array of archival sources, this book displays details of extensive collaborations between the factory, the Army and scientists in the development of camouflage patterns and military textiles. It uncovers a system of intellectual property management to protect the designs of the uniform, and delivers new insights into the wider economic influences and industry linkages of the Government owned factory.

Apparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products, Second Edition is a user-friendly guide for evaluating apparel quality to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. This book provides an overview of apparel production, emphasizing quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences, and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and highlights the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods. The text is highly illustrated to provide students with the tools needed to evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products skillfully. New to this Edition: - New fabric technology including e-textiles, sew bots, and automation - International common size equivalents to accompany U.S. size classifications by sex, height, and age - Sustainability considerations for raw materials, design development, and apparel production - Expanded international labeling and safety regulations and compliance for the United States, Canada, EU, and Japan Instructor Resources - The Instructor's Guide provides suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, including sample syllabi, in-class activities, lab activities, and projects. - The Test Bank includes sample test questions for each chapter - PowerPoint (R) presentations include images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion Instructor's Resources may be accessed through www.fairchildbooks.com. STUDIO Features: - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips - Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary and image identification - Watch Videos that take you behind the scenes of factories and testing facilities, to see how concepts covered in the text are applied in the real world

This user-friendly guide to evaluating apparel quality presents the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods, to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. Bubonia provides an overview of apparel production, with emphasis on quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and the relationship of apparel manufacturing and production processes, cost, price point and the quality level of an apparel product. A key aspect of the book is the focus on both U.S. and International standards and regulations required for apparel analysis, performance, labeling requirements and safety regulations. The text is highly illustrated with images of stitch and seam types plus photos of their uses in actual garments, providing students with the tools needed to skillfully evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products. Key Features ~ Supplementary Apparel Quality Lab Manual (sold separately) includes hands-on lab activities and projects that simulate real-world garment analysis and material testing ~ Industry Scenario boxes present case studies highlight real world situations such as the Lululemon recall and the environmental impact of apparel manufacturing ~ Provides an illustrated guide to ASTM stitch and seam types Teaching Resources ~ Instructor's Guide with Test Bank ~ PowerPoint presentations for each chapter

The 2013 collapse of Rana Plaza, an eight-story garment factory in Savar, Bangladesh, killed over a thousand workers and injured hundreds more. This disaster exposed the brutal labor conditions of the global garment industry and revealed its failures as a competitive and self-regulating industry. Over the past thirty years, corporations have widely adopted labor codes on health and safety, yet too often in their working lives, garment workers across the globe encounter death, work-related injuries, and unhealthy factory environments. Disasters such as Rana Plaza notwithstanding, garment workers routinely work under conditions that not only escape public notice but also undermine workers' long-term physical health, mental well-being, and the very sustainability of their employment. Unmaking the Global Sweatshop gathers the work of leading anthropologists and ethnographers studying the global garment industry to examine the relationship between the politics of labor and initiatives to protect workers' health and safety. Contributors analyze both the labor processes required of garment workers as well as the global dynamics of outsourcing and subcontracting that produce such demands on workers' health. The accounts contained in Unmaking the Global Sweatshop trace the histories of labor standards for garment workers in the global South; explore recent partnerships between corporate, state, and civil society actors in pursuit of accountable corporate governance; analyze a breadth of initiatives that seek to improve workers' health standards, from ethical trade projects to human rights movements; and focus on the ways in which risk, health, and safety might be differently conceptualized and regulated. Unmaking the Global Sweatshop argues for an expansive understanding of garment workers' lived experiences that recognizes the politics of labor, human rights, the privatization and individualization of health-related responsibilities as well as the complexity of health and well-being. Contributors: Mark Anner, Hasan Ashraf, Jennifer Bair, Jeremy Blasi, Geert De Neve, Saydia Gulrukh, Ingrid Hagen-Keith, Sandya Hewamanne, Caitrin Lynch, Alessandra Mezzadri, Patrick Neveling, Florence Palpacuer, Rebecca Prentice, Kanchana N. Ruwanpura, Nazneen Shifa, Dina M. Siddiqi, Mahmudul H. Sumon.

WINNER OF THE 2015 BANCROFT PRIZE WINNER OF THE 2015 PHILIP TAFT PRIZE FINALIST FOR THE 2015 PULITZER PRIZE FOR HISTORY SHORTLISTED FOR THE 2015 CUNDHILL PRIZE IN HISTORICAL LITERATURE Economist BOOKS OF THE YEAR 2015 'Knowledgeable and stunning' Orhan Pamuk 'A masterpiece of the historian's craft' The Nation For about 900 years, from 1000 to 1900, cotton was the world's most important manufacturing industry. It remains a vast business - if all the cotton bales produced in 2013 had been stacked on top of each other they would have made a somewhat unstable tower 40,000 miles high. Sven Beckert's superb new book is a history of the overwhelming role played by cotton in dictating the shape of our world. It is both a gripping narrative and a brilliant case history of how the world works.

In today's world of unequal globalization, Bangladesh has drawn international attention for the spate of factory disasters that have taken the lives of numerous garment workers, mostly young women. The contemporary garment industry-and the labor organizing pushing back-draws on a long history of gendered labor division and exploitation in East Bengal, the historical antecedent of Bangladesh. Yet despite the centrality of women's labor to anticolonial protest and postcolonial state-building, historiography has struggled with what appears to be its absence from the archive. Poulomi Saha offers an innovative account of women's political labor in East Bengal over more than a century, one that suggests new ways to think about textiles and the gendered labors of their making. An Empire of Touch argues that women have articulated-in writing, in political action, in stitching-their own desires in their own terms. They produce narratives beyond women's empowerment and independence as global and national projects; they refuse critical pronouncements of their own subjugation. Saha follows the historical traces of how women have claimed their own labor, contending that their political commitments are captured in the material objects of their manufacture. Her analysis of the production of historical memory through and by the bodies of women spans British colonialism and American empire, anticolonial nationalism to neoliberal globalization, depicting East Bengal between development economics and postcolonial studies. Through a material account of text and textile, An Empire of Touch crafts a new narrative of gendered political labor under empire.

A model of clarity... It provides absolutely essential reference material for the dress historian and archaeologist, for the early textile specialist, and those interested in the tools and equipment used. TOOL AND TRADES HISTORY SOCIETY NEWSLETTER [Linda Woolley, curator of early and medieval textiles and dress, V&A Museum] Among the most evocative items to be discovered by archaeologists are the scraps of silk and wool and other fabrics that signal so eloquently their owner's status and concerns. Such clothing and textile finds have figured prominently in excavations of medieval sites in London in the past two decades; they have included knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic and Italian fabrics, which reveal for the first time the wide range of cloths available to medieval Londoners; there are beautifully made buttons, and buttonholes and edgings which display superb craftsmanship and a high level of needlework skills; the way that clothes were cut and sewncan be studied in detail. This highly readable account will be of wide general interest; dress historians and archaeologists will also find a wealth of new insights into the fashions, clothing and textile industries of medieval England and Europe. Contents include: The Excavations, Techniques used in Textile Production, Wool Textiles, Goathair Textiles, Linen Textiles, Silk Textiles, Mixed Cloths, Narrow Wares, Sewing Techniques and Tailoring, Dyes. THE AUTHORS Past and present staff of the Museum of London.

This is the first work on British textile exports to South America during the nineteenth century. During this period, textiles ranked among the most important manufactures traded in the world market and Britain was the foremost producer. Thanks to new data, this book demonstrates that British exports to South America were transacted at very high rates during the first decades after independence. This development was due to improvements in the packing of textiles; decreasing costs of production and introduction of free trade in Britain; falling ocean freight rates, marine insurance and import duties in South America; dramatic improvements in communications; and the introduction of better port facilities. Manuel Llorca-Jana explores the marketing chain of textile exports to South America and sheds light on South Americans' consumer behaviour. This book contains the most comprehensive database on Anglo-South American trade during the nineteenth century and fills an important gap in the historiography.