From the author of STITCHED UP: 'Makes a strong case for nothing less than a revolution' Emma Watson 'A superb primer on everything that is wrong with our world - and how we can start to change it' NEW INTERNATIONALIST DO YOU KNOW WHERE YOUR SHOES COME FROM? DO YOU KNOW WHERE THEY GO WHEN YOU'RE DONE WITH THEM? In 2018, 66.3 million pairs of shoes were manufactured across the world every single day. They have never been cheaper to buy, and we have never been more convinced that we need to buy them. Yet their cost to the planet has never been greater. In this urgent, passionately argued book, Tansy E. Hoskins opens our eyes to the dark origins of the shoes on our feet. Taking us deep into the heart of an industry that is exploiting workers and deceiving consumers, we begin to understand that if we don't act fast, this humble household object will take us to the point of no return.

Since time immemorial Indian textiles, especially textiles from Bengal, were in great demand and exported to different parts of the world. Textiles from Bengal were appreciated by the Romans as early as first century ad. Numerous foreign travellers including Chinese, Portuguese, Arab and Persian, have mentioned the delicacy and beauty of Bengal textiles. From the mid-seventeenth century, there was a massive spurt in demand of cloth manufactured in Bengal, but after the British conquest of Bengal in 1757 this industry started to decline. This monograph traces the journey of Bengal textiles till its decline. Among the topics covered include accounts of the admiration for Bengal textiles from far and wide, the different types of textiles that were manufactured in Bengal, the major exporters, the major centres of production, the production system, the Dhaka muslin and the silk industry in Bengal, the procuring system that was adopted by the European / Asian merchants, the condition of the artisans who were the chief pillars of the textile industry and lastly the reasons behind the decline of the Bengal textile industry. This is the first comprehensive volume on Bengal textile industry. It is the outcome of the author's four and a half decades of work on various aspects of Indian Ocean trade, the activities of the European companies and their impact on Indian / Bengal's economy. Please note: This title is co-published with Manohar Publishers, New Delhi. Taylor & Francis does not sell or distribute the Hardback in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka

Quality is a form of management that is composed of the double approach of driving an organization towards excellence, while conforming to established standards and laws. The objective of quality confers advantages to companies: it makes them more resilient to change that can be unexpected or even chaotic; it makes them more competitive by identifying those steps in processes that do not offer added value. No longer the concern of a small community of experts, even scientists and engineers working in the private sector will find that they will have to con- front questions related to quality management in their day-to-day professional lives. This volume offers such people an unique entry into the universe of quality management, providing not only a cartography of quality standards and their modes of application - with particular attention to the ISO standards - but also a broader cultural context, with chapters on the history, prizes, deontology and moral implications of systems of quality management. This book thus opens the door to all those eager to take the first steps to learning how the principles of quality are organized today, and how they can be applied to his or her own activity.

Since 1954, Supima has dedicated itself to offering the world s finest cottons to the global fashion industry. Cross breeding strains to develop a rare extra-long staple fiber, the brand established a new industry standard adopted by designers as well as world-class brands ranging from Lacoste to Brooks Brothers. In parallel to the formalization of the American fashion industry, Supima developed a uniquely American product sought after around the world. Lush photographs of Supima s growing and refining processes, historical images, and fashions from the early twentieth century to today trace the vibrant history of the fiber and contemporary applications. Portfolios and runway photos from established and emerging designers and fashion schools highlight the fiber s enormous range. Photographers from William Helburn to Roe Ethridge captured the trajectory of Supima from AIGA award-wining campaigns to today s collaborations with top designers and industry innovators, like Uniqlo and Casper. Supima: World s Finest Cottons follows a luxury product s journey from humble fields to an integral part in some of the world s most iconic garments.

The textile industry is one of the oldest in the country, going back several centuries. The industry experienced recession from the mid-1960s to the 1980s. However, this trend is reversed after the early 1990s when domestic demand for textiles products as well as exports increased substantially. What factors have contributed to the growth of the industry? What kind of changes have occurred in the structure of exports of the industry and what are their implications? Has the growth of this labour-intensive industry generated adequate employment? This book addresses such debates and examines the process of growth of India's textile industry, focusing on its performance on the employment front since the 1980s. Using macro-level data, the book analyses determinants of domestic demand and challenges the general perception that the growth of the industry was primarily driven by an expansion in exports of textile products. It argues that structural changes such as inter-fibre and inter-sectoral shifts and capacity expansion involving modernization have contributed to decline in quantity as well as quality of employment generated by the industry.

The apparel and textiles industry is one of the industries most affected by globalization, and involves complex relationships that are constantly evolving. This carefully-researched book covers exciting trends in apparel and textile supply chains; manufacturing; design; women's, men's and children's fashions; shoes; accessories; retailing; trade; distribution; technologies; and smart fabrics. It includes a thorough market analysis as well as our highly respected trends analysis. It also includes thousands of contacts for business and industry leaders, industry associations, Internet sites and other resources. In addition, this book features extensive statistical tables, an industry glossary and thorough indexes. We are careful to detail the latest developments in global trade agreements, third party logistics and retail chain stores, along with important news from China and other emerging nations. The corporate profiles section of the book includes our proprietary, in-depth profiles of the 350 leading companies in all facets of the apparel and textiles industry. Major retailers, distributors, manufacturers and designers are covered thoroughly. Purchasers will find a form in the book enabling them to register for 1-year, 1-seat online access to tools at Plunkett Research Online, including the ability to view the market research/industry trends section and industry statistics. You have access, at no additional charge, to the very latest data posted to Plunkett Research Online. Online tools enable you to search and view selected companies, and then export selected company contact data, including executive names. You'll find a complete overview, industry analysis and market research report in one superb, value-priced package.

The journalist and politician Edward Baines (1800-90) succeeded his father as editor of the Leeds Mercury and as MP for Leeds. From a dissenting family, he was a social reformer but passionately believed that the state should not interfere in matters such as working hours and education. In this 1835 work, he sees the cotton industry as an exemplar of the unity of 'the manufactory, the laboratory, and the study of the natural philosopher', in making practical use of creative ideas and scientific discoveries. He surveys cotton manufacture from its origins to its 'second birth' in England, and focuses on the current state of machinery, trade and working conditions in all aspects of the business, and its outputs, including cloth, lace, stockings and cotton wool. This comprehensive work was important for its detailed analysis of a vital commercial activity, and remains so today for the historical information it contains.

'An interesting and important account.' Daily Telegraph Have you ever stopped and wondered where your jeans came from? Who made them and where? Ever wondered where they end up after you donate them for recycling? Following a pair of jeans, Clothing Poverty takes the reader on a vivid around-the-world tour to reveal how clothes are manufactured and retailed, bringing to light how fast fashion and clothing recycling are interconnected. Andrew Brooks shows how recycled clothes are traded across continents, uncovers how retailers and international charities are embroiled in commodity chains which perpetuate poverty, and exposes the hidden trade networks which transect the globe. Stitching together rich narratives, from Mozambican markets, Nigerian smugglers and Chinese factories to London's vintage clothing scene, TOMS shoes and Vivienne Westwood's ethical fashion lines, Brooks uncovers the many hidden sides of fashion.

Through the study of a regional industry, the book illustrates the impact of an expanding national market on a previously isolated market, offering new insights into a pioneer industry in the West and into the business methods and procedures of the time. The book discusses the growth of a myriad of small processing and manufacturing plants which drew raw materials from, and geared production and sales to that local economy, enjoying as they did, protection from eastern competitors who were saddled with high freight rates. The book demonstrates that once urbanization occurred in the region, bringing it into the national market, the local industries declined rapidly, disappearing in less than a generation. Perceptive, challenging, the book opens new possibilities for the study of manufacturing on the regional level.

For many decades in the 18th and 19th centuries, Russia was the world's greatest exporter of flax and hemp and Great Britain its major customer. Most studies of flax and hemp and their associated industries have hitherto concentrated on the economic and historical events surrounding the rise and fall of these industries in Britain. This book is based on a large body of new material consisting of lead-alloy seals that were attached to bundles of flax and hemp exported from Russia and aims chiefly to describe the different seals that were used and to explain the reasons why they were employed. It offers a short history of their use, a guide to their identification and a catalogue of items recovered in Britain, opening up a valuable new source of material for analysing a different aspect of the history of commercial relations between Russia and Britain and providing assistance for finders and museum curators in identifying and deciphering these objects correctly. The text guides the reader through the different types of seal so far recorded using illustrations, transliterations of the Cyrillic texts found on the seals and explanatory tables, as well as a comprehensive catalogue. Analysis is conducted of the information found in the seals. This information provides us with a picture of the manner in which the export of these products from Russia to Britain was handled and allows us to make comparisons over different periods of time and to analyse the different systems of quality control used. It also enables us to record the geographical distribution of Russian ports used for the export of flax and hemp to the UK, where the spread of their distribution tells us something of the redistribution of these imports and provides an understanding of the use to which their by-products were put as part of the agricultural practices of the 18th and 19th centuries.

"A very realistic and readable ethnography."--Susan Schaefer Davis, author of "Adolescence in a Moroccan Town" "Offers a portrait of the lives of Moroccan women working in factories. With sensitivity and great honesty, Cairoli evokes the struggles women face as they enter an exploitative labor force and challenge cultural norms. A poignant and devastating portrayal of the underside of globalization."--Rachel Newcomb, author of "Women of Fes: Ambiguities of Urban Life in Morocco" In Morocco today, the idea of female laborers is generally frowned upon. Yet despite this, many women are beginning to find work in factories. Laetitia Cairoli spent a year in the ancient city of Fes; "Girls of the Factory" tells the story of what life is like for working women. Forced to find a factory job herself so that she could speak more intimately with working women, she was able to learn firsthand why they work, what working means to them, and how important earning a wage is to their sense of self. Cairoli conveys a general sense of the working life of women in Morocco by describing daily life inside a Moroccan sewing factory. She also reveals the additional work they face inside their homes. More than an ethnography, this volume is also for those who want to better understand what life is like for a new generation of young women just entering the workforce. M. Laetitia Cairoli is adjunct professor of anthropology at Montclair State University.

This book was first published in 1960. Its author, W. G. Rimmer, here forms a case study of the Marshalls of Leeds, and their progress and prominence in the field of flax spinning since the outbreak of the French War in 1793. The founder of Marshall and Co., John Marshall, was made a millionaire by the company's success. In documenting the company's economic history, Rimmer draws upon private ledgers, stock books, score letters and notebooks, primarily spanning the years 1806-46. He aims to give a thorough and engaging narrative account of this family and their firm by drawing upon their relationships with the citizens of Leeds, politicians, customers and landowners, as well as looking at the internal development of their business. This engaging and thoroughly researched book will be of great interest to any scholars of nineteenth-century industry in general, or the industrial history of Leeds more specifically.

Originally published in 1959, this book surveys the changes in the social origins and career patterns of the leaders of two British industries during the previous century. The biographies of about 1000 managing partners and executive directors from the hosiery industry are pieced together from a variety of sources. Changes in social origins and career patterns are analysed and comparisons made between the leaders of these two very different industries in an attempt to isolate the influence of industry's size and capital requirements on management recruitment. Where possible, comparisons are also made with various studies of American industrial leaders and with other investigations of British industrialists. The book attempts to provide an empirical basis for generalisations about British industrial leadership during the century in which her role in world manufacturing was transformed from that of quasi-monopolist to one of competitor with many other countries.

The wool market was extremely important to the English medieval economy and wool dominated the English export trade from the late thirteenth century to its decline in the late fifteenth century. Wool was at the forefront of the establishment of England as a European political and economic power and this 2007 volume was the first study of the medieval wool market in over 20 years. It investigates in detail the scale and scope of advance contracts for the sale of wool; the majority of these agreements were formed between English monasteries and Italian merchants, and the book focuses on the data contained within them. The pricing structures and market efficiency of the agreements are examined, employing practices from modern finance. A detailed case study of the impact of entering into such agreements on medieval English monasteries is also presented, using the example of Pipewell Abbey in Northamptonshire.

Sugar is among the most traded commodities with exports accounting for over one quarter of global production. In this book, the authors discuss the global sugar market; the application of nano-and ultrafiltration in the sugar industry, and sugar utilisation by fungi providing leads for fungal metabolic engineering in crude plant substrates in industrial applications. Additionally, this book discusses cotton crops, the most popularly used textile fibre in the world. The average production of cotton fibre in the world is around 25 million metric tons per year. Additionally, the authors examine cotton fibre grading and classification methods which play pivotal roles in the pricing and marketing of cotton fibres; a look at how the cotton plant responds to different stresses in the breeding of more tolerant crops; and the planting status of cotton world-wide, among others.

The changing patterns of production and trade in fibres, textiles and clothing provide a classic case study of the dynamics of our interdependent world economy. For centuries Asia supplied the textile factories of Europe with natural fibres, including silk from East Asia exports virtually no natural fibres and instead is the world's most important exporter of manufactured textile products and chief importer of fibres. New Silk Roads, first published in 1992, demonstrates that despite the import barriers erected by advanced economies, textiles and clothing production continues to serve as an engine of growth for developing economies seeking to export their way out of poverty. This book is based on selected papers given at a conference which discussed East Asia's role in world fibre, textile and clothing markets. It draws on trade and development theory as well as on historical evidence to trace the development of these changing markets, which are now dominated by the newly industrialized economies of Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong and, increasingly, China and Thailand.

An Economic History of the Silk Industry, 1830-1930, first published in 1997, is an ambitious historical analysis of the development of a major commodity. Dr Federico examines the rapid growth of the world silk industry from the early nineteenth century to the eve of the Great Depression of the 1930s. Silk production grew as a result of Western industrialisation, which in turn brought about increased incomes and thus increased demand for silk products. The author documents the changes in methods of production and the technical progress that enabled the silk industry to cope with this new influx in demand. Dr Federico then discusses the significant changes in the geographical distribution of world output that accompanied this growth. In conclusion, Federico points out that silk did indeed becomes the first example of a Japanese success story on the world market, Italy and China both losing their markets due to Japan's large agricultural supply of raw material (cocoons) and its adroitness in importing and adopting Western technology.

This is a study of industrial unrest in the cotton industry at a time when the economy was on the threshold of mid-Victorian prosperity, and when Chartism was still much more than a memory. The town of Preston was the crucial battlefield, and here the masters and men fought out a bitter trial of strength. The strike of 1853-54 closed the Preston cotton industry for seven months, and disrupted production in many other towns in Lancashire. Against the implacable opposition of the masters, the strikers toured the country to organize support, and raised GBP100,000 in subscriptions from their fellow operatives. The dispute featured prominently in the national and provincial press, and the weavers' delegates, notably George Cowell and Mortimer Grimshaw, became celebrities overnight. After five months, the employers brought in blackleg labour, and when the detested `knobsticks' failed to break the strike they had the operatives' leaders arrested. These moves did not deter the cotton workers, who were forced back to work only when their financial reserves were exhausted. Their campaign ended defiantly, as it had begun, with cries of `Ten Per Cent still, and no surrender'. This book is their story.

This is a study of one of England's principal cloth towns during the late Middle Ages. It draws extensively upon unpublished records in Colchester and elsewhere, and is the first history of a medieval English town to analyse in conjunction the relationships between overseas trade, urban development and changes in rural society. First it describes Colchester in the earlier fourteenth century, its trade, its agricultural setting and its form of government. The book then shows how cloth-making grew in Colchester after the Black Death and how the population increased until about 1414. The implications of this for the government of the borough and for the town's role in the local economy are discussed. The last section shows that Colchester's growth was not sustained through the fifteenth century, and examines some of the causal links between economic contraction, institutional change in the borough and agrarian depression in the surrounding countryside.

'No other group of workers in the history of the English working-class has received more sympathy and less scholarly attention than the handloom weavers of the Lancashire cotton industry during the Industrial Revolution.' Mr Bythell's is a detailed study of this important group. His aim is to examine the transition from the domestic system to the factory system in cotton weaving in the first half of the nineteenth century. He provides detailed information on the geographical distribution of handloom weaving, the size and structure of the labour force, the varying history of employment, wages and standard of life, the efforts made by the weavers to alleviate their distress through industrial and political action, and their final displacement and disappearance. The results of his research enable Mr Bythell to challenge several of the generally accepted views about the weavers.

The wool market was extremely important to the English medieval economy and wool dominated the English export trade from the late thirteenth century to its decline in the late fifteenth century. Wool was at the forefront of the establishment of England as a European political and economic power and this volume is the first study of the medieval wool market in over 20 years. It investigates in detail the scale and scope of advance contracts for the sale of wool; the majority of these agreements were formed between English monasteries and Italian merchants, and the book focuses on the data contained within them. The pricing structures and market efficiency of the agreements are examined, employing practices from modern finance. A detailed case study of the impact of entering into such agreements on medieval English monasteries is also presented, using the example of Pipewell Abbey in Northamptonshire.

This book covers the following themes and cross-cutting research and development activities: Agronomy, economics and market trends for the production of natural fibres; Synthetic and natural fibres, their properties, processing and applications; Properties, performance and primary processing of natural fibres; Textile and clothing production processes and properties; Nanotechnology applications in fibres, textiles and clothing; Comfort and health related applications of textiles; World trade and marketing of fibres, textiles and clothing; Modern and innovative textile processing techniques and technologies.