During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries large numbers of Scots emigrated to seek their fortunes abroad. Better educated than the English and with a strong Presbyterian ethic, they were unusually successful in business and politics. This was true for New Zealand as elsewhere. Ross & Glendining Ltd was founded in Dunedin in 1862, during the gold rush, by two contrasting characters: Caithness-born John Ross and Robert Glendining, from Dumfries. Initially a drapery importing business, it opened branches throughout New Zealand and warehouses in all the main centers. Careful management and efficient systems enabled the business to grow, despite strong competition from Australia. After the investment boom of the seventies, R&G began to diversify, investing in sheep runs, a woollen mill, other manufacturing, and even a coal mine. This history offers not only a portrait of a firm but a window on the development of the New Zealand economy and the emergence of a manufacturing sector.

This work is a comparative study of the three "great" American wars of the twentieth century: World War I, World War II and Vietnam. The book explores several aspects of American popular culture, like fashion, film and the societal mores of each era. While a number of books have covered fashion during individual wars, this is the first study to compare several major conflicts, drawing some conclusions regarding the lasting influences of wardrobe over an entire century. This book provides short background information for each war, briefly covering earlier conflicts that shaped the hostilities of the twentieth century. Although the emphasis is on women's clothing, participation and service, men are not ignored. Their fashions not only speak to the times, but the enormity of their sacrifices.

Fashion Business Cases: A Student Guide to Learning with Case Studies allows students to apply what they are learning in the classroom to real-life situations in the global fashion industry. Adapted from the Bloomsbury Fashion Business Cases (BFBC) online resource, this text will aid instructors in providing high-quality examples from scholars around the world. A mix of introductory, intermediate, and advanced cases ensure that students of all levels can develop the business, communication, and problem-solving skills required of fashion industry professionals. Topics range from corporate social responsibility and sustainable fashion to transparent brand communication and cultural sensitivity. This book is designed to foster critical and ethical thinking as students enter the fashion industry. Key Features: - 40 cases studies, of introductory, intermediate, and advanced level - Learning Objectives and Business Questions included with each case - Two introductory chapters teaching students how to use case studies effectively

The eighth edition of this industry standard for textile terminology is fully revised and expanded featuring approximately 100 new entries and over 14,000 definitions of fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Trademark information has been thoroughly updated to reflect the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office's Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS), and current definitions from the industry associations American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists and American Society for Testing and Materials are included. Fully illustrated with over 400 photographs and line drawings, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses. An extensive appendix provides a list of national and internationalindustry associations and organizations. From Abaca to Zyex, The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles contains essential reference information for professionals and scholars involved in the textile industry.

The textile industry is one of the oldest in the country, going back several centuries. The industry experienced recession from the mid-1960s to the 1980s. However, this trend is reversed after the early 1990s when domestic demand for textiles products as well as exports increased substantially. What factors have contributed to the growth of the industry? What kind of changes have occurred in the structure of exports of the industry and what are their implications? Has the growth of this labour-intensive industry generated adequate employment? This book addresses such debates and examines the process of growth of India's textile industry, focusing on its performance on the employment front since the 1980s. Using macro-level data, the book analyses determinants of domestic demand and challenges the general perception that the growth of the industry was primarily driven by an expansion in exports of textile products. It argues that structural changes such as inter-fibre and inter-sectoral shifts and capacity expansion involving modernization have contributed to decline in quantity as well as quality of employment generated by the industry.

Paris, along with New York, was one of the main centres of the fashion industry in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. But although New York based garment workers were mobilized early in the twentieth century, Paris was the stage of vibrant revolutions and uprisings throughout the nineteenth century. As a consequence, French women workers were radicalized much earlier, creating a unique and unprecedented moment in both labour and feminist history. Seamstresses were central figures in the socio-political and cultural events of nineteenth and early twentieth century France but their stories and political writings have remained marginalized and obscured. Drawing on a wide range of published and unpublished documents from the industrial revolution, 'Sewing, Fighting and Writing' is a foucauldian genealogy of the Parisian seamstress. Looking at the assemblage of radical practices in work, politics and culture, it explores the constitution of the self of the seamstress in the era of early industrialization and revolutionary events and considers her contribution to the socio-political and cultural formations in modernity.

Broken Promises of Globalization: The Case of the Bangladesh Garment Industry analyzes the consequences of the latest wave of globalization within the context of the Bangladesh garment industry's integration into world markets and production chains. Shahidur Rahman has found that although globalization has created opportunities, the process of globalization has also triggered a deformed development leaving Bangladesh increasingly vulnerable to shifts and tensions within the world trading regime. Bangladesh's vulnerability, experienced as a constraining framework by all the major actors in dependent industrialization, is of particular importance to the progress both of workers and of Bangladesh's industrializing modernizers in the garment industry. This book intends to respond to three questions. First, has the garment industry been able to counteract the vulnerability that women garment workers had experienced in their villages? Second, is the formation of a welfare committee a substitute model for unions when it comes to protecting women's rights? Finally, how is a Least Developing Country dealing with both domestic and external pressures in its response to globalization? Rahman argues that in spite of the opportunities created by the growth of the garment industry, the key actors such as workers, entrepreneurs, unions, and even the government have become vulnerable in the process of the global integration of this industry. This is an ethnographic study that tells the story of the rise, growth, and demise of a Bangladeshi garment company. From a broader approach, an internal force such as the government of Bangladesh is not alone in being responsible for pushing the workers into a vulnerable position; external pressure on the state is also responsible for intensifying the vulnerability of Bangladeshi institutions and actors. Broken Promises of Globalization exposes the crisis Bangladeshi garment companies face as a result of the momentous pressures emanating from the regime of neo-liberal globalization. This ethnographic study, exploring a wide range of contemporary and recent development issues, holds particular relevance for students and scholars of sociology, political science, political economics, labor, and development studies.

Quality is a form of management that is composed of the double approach of driving an organization towards excellence, while conforming to established standards and laws. The objective of quality confers advantages to companies: it makes them more resilient to change that can be unexpected or even chaotic; it makes them more competitive by identifying those steps in processes that do not offer added value. No longer the concern of a small community of experts, even scientists and engineers working in the private sector will find that they will have to con- front questions related to quality management in their day-to-day professional lives. This volume offers such people an unique entry into the universe of quality management, providing not only a cartography of quality standards and their modes of application - with particular attention to the ISO standards - but also a broader cultural context, with chapters on the history, prizes, deontology and moral implications of systems of quality management. This book thus opens the door to all those eager to take the first steps to learning how the principles of quality are organized today, and how they can be applied to his or her own activity.

"A very realistic and readable ethnography."--Susan Schaefer Davis, author of "Adolescence in a Moroccan Town" "Offers a portrait of the lives of Moroccan women working in factories. With sensitivity and great honesty, Cairoli evokes the struggles women face as they enter an exploitative labor force and challenge cultural norms. A poignant and devastating portrayal of the underside of globalization."--Rachel Newcomb, author of "Women of Fes: Ambiguities of Urban Life in Morocco" In Morocco today, the idea of female laborers is generally frowned upon. Yet despite this, many women are beginning to find work in factories. Laetitia Cairoli spent a year in the ancient city of Fes; "Girls of the Factory" tells the story of what life is like for working women. Forced to find a factory job herself so that she could speak more intimately with working women, she was able to learn firsthand why they work, what working means to them, and how important earning a wage is to their sense of self. Cairoli conveys a general sense of the working life of women in Morocco by describing daily life inside a Moroccan sewing factory. She also reveals the additional work they face inside their homes. More than an ethnography, this volume is also for those who want to better understand what life is like for a new generation of young women just entering the workforce. M. Laetitia Cairoli is adjunct professor of anthropology at Montclair State University.

This is the first work on British textile exports to South America during the nineteenth century. During this period, textiles ranked among the most important manufactures traded in the world market and Britain was the foremost producer. Thanks to new data, this book demonstrates that British exports to South America were transacted at very high rates during the first decades after independence. This development was due to improvements in the packing of textiles; decreasing costs of production and introduction of free trade in Britain; falling ocean freight rates, marine insurance and import duties in South America; dramatic improvements in communications; and the introduction of better port facilities. Manuel Llorca-Jana explores the marketing chain of textile exports to South America and sheds light on South Americans' consumer behaviour. This book contains the most comprehensive database on Anglo-South American trade during the nineteenth century and fills an important gap in the historiography.

The story of Irish linen is a story of the Irish people. Many thousands of men and women made Irish linen a global product and an international brand. It is also a story of innovation and opportunity. Irish linen has served its makers as sail cloth of incredible strength and durability for world exploration; it has functioned as watertight containers for farmers and firemen; it has soothed the brows of royalty and absorbed the sweat of the working class. As outerwear and underwear, linen has covered the bodies of men, women, and children from birth to death--the rich and powerful, poor and pitiful alike. Into this cultural history, Kathleen Curtis Wilson weaves personal narratives, giving the story a voice: words and songs of individual spinners, factory workers, and out-workers like Sarah McCabe, who created fabulous linen lace; Sarah Leech, who wrote poetry as she spun fine thread; the three Patterson women, who worked in Mossley Mill for a total of one hundred years; and the Herdman brothers, who settled in County Tyrone to build a mill and a utopian community. Lavishly illustrated and engagingly written, each chapter tells of art, social and economic history, design, architecture, technology, and cultural traditions that celebrate the industry of making linen, a highly useful and desirable commodity that helped transport Irish people across the Atlantic to influence the settling of North America.

After the Revolutionary War, despite political independence, the United States still relied on other countries for manufactured goods. Francis Cabot Lowell, born in Massachusetts in 1775, was one of the principal investors in building the India Wharf and the shops and warehouses close to the harbor. His work was instrumental in establishing domestic industry for the United States and spurred the American industrial revolution. Francis Cabot Lowell's Method-a detailed investment plan, cheap raw materials and power, a motivated labor force, a sound marketing plan, and above all, modern technology-became the standard for the American factory of the nineteenth century.

This book covers the following themes and cross-cutting research and development activities: Agronomy, economics and market trends for the production of natural fibres; Synthetic and natural fibres, their properties, processing and applications; Properties, performance and primary processing of natural fibres; Textile and clothing production processes and properties; Nanotechnology applications in fibres, textiles and clothing; Comfort and health related applications of textiles; World trade and marketing of fibres, textiles and clothing; Modern and innovative textile processing techniques and technologies.

Many Latino and Chinese women who immigrated to New York City over the past two decades found work in the garment industry-an industry well known for both hiring immigrants and its harsh working conditions. Today the garment industry is one of the largest immigrant employers in New York City and workers in Chinese- and Korean-owned factories produce 70 percent of all manufactured clothing in New York City. Based on extensive interviews with workers and employers, Margaret M. Chin, offers a detailed and complex portrait of the work lives of Chinese and Latino garment workers. Chin, whose mother and aunts worked in Chinatown's garment industry, also explores how immigration status, family circumstances, ethnic relations, and gender affect the garment industry workplace. In turn, she analyzes how these factors affect whom employers hire and what wages and benefits are given to the employees.

Chin's study contrasts the working conditions and hiring practices of Korean- and Chinese-owned factories. Her comparison of the two practices illuminates how ethnic ties both improve and hinder opportunities for immigrants. While both sectors take advantage of workers and are characterized by low wages and lax enforcement of safety regulations-there are crucial differences. In the Chinese sector, owners encourage employees, almost entirely female, to recruit new workers, especially friends and family. Though Chinese workers tend to be documented and unionized, this work arrangement allows owners to maintain a more paternalistic relationship with their employees. Gender also plays a major role in channeling women into the garment industry, as Chinese immigrants, particularly those with children, tend to maintain traditional gender roles in the workplace. Korean-owned shops, however, hire mostly undocumented Mexican and Ecuadorian workers, both male and female. These workers tend not to have children and are thus less tied to traditional gender roles. Unlike their Chinese counterparts, Korean employers hire workers on their own terms and would rather not allow current employees to influence their decisions.

Chin's work also provides an overview of the history of the garment industry, examines immigration strategies, and concludes with a discussion of changes in the industry in the aftermath of 9/11.

The properties of woven and knitted fabrics differ largely due to the path yarn follows in the fabric structure. This path determines the fabric's physical properties, mechanical properties, and appearance. A slight variation to the design may result in entirely different properties for the fabric. Structural Textile Design provides detailed insight on different types of designs used for the production of woven and knitted fabrics, highlighting the effect design has on a fabric's properties and applications. With focus on the techniques used to draw designs and produce them on weaving and knitting machines, this book will be of great interest to textile engineers, professionals and graduate students in textile technology and manufacturing.

This book aims to provide a broad conceptual and theoretical perspective of apparel manufacturing process starting from raw material selection to packaging and dispatch of goods. Further, engineering practices followed in an apparel industry for production planning and control, line balancing, implementation of industrial engineering concepts in apparel manufacturing, merchandising activities and garment costing have been included, and they will serve as a foundation for future apparel professionals. The book addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process with considered quality aspects. This book also covers the production planning process and production balancing activities. It addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process and quality aspects to be considered in each process. Garment engineering questions each process/operation of the total work content and can reduce the work content and increase profitability by using innovative methods of construction and technology. This book covers the production planning process, production balancing activities, and application of industrial engineering concepts in garment engineering. Further, the merchandising activities and garment costing procedures will deal with some practical examples. This book is primarily intended for textile technology and fashion technology students in universities and colleges, researchers, industrialists and academicians, as well as professionals in the apparel and textile industry.

This new volume reviews recent academic and technological developments behind new engineered modified nanotextile materials. The developments in textiles using nanotechnology give ordinary materials improved properties, such as better water resistance, enhanced moisture and odor reduction, increased strength and elasticity, and resistance to bacteria, among other improvements. The research reported in this book presents state-of-the-art technology in modern materials with an emphasis on the rapidly growing technologies in textile engineering. Several innovative applications for different materials are described in considerable detail with emphasis on the experimental data that supports these new applications. From nano-fibers to chemical materials, creative modifications concerning new nanocomposites are described that could one day become commonplace. The book covers a host of topics in this area, including the design of new textile products, moisture and heat transfer in clothing, developments in electrospinning, new applications, nanotextile and tissue engineering from a biological perspective, and more. The book is intended for researchers and those interested in future developments in mechanical and physicochemical characteristics of modified nanotextile materials and polymer blends. The book will also be a useful tool for students and researchers, providing helpful insights into new evolving research areas in nanostructured polymer blends and composites in textiles.

Fast fashion is an industrial trend that refers to the concept of shortening lead time (production, distribution) and offering new products to the market as fast as possible. Despite an abundance of research results, there is no comprehensive reference source that covers the state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical modeling and empirical research on fast fashion systems. This edited volume consists of three sections - review and exploratory studies, analytical models, and empirical research - made up of many interesting contributions in the respective domain. The result is a well-balanced handbook which includes both theoretical results (from various perspectives) and empirical findings. This volume will be of interest not only to those involved in the fashion industry, but also to academics and practitioners in the wider fields of business, manufacturing engineering, systems engineering and supply chain management.

In this holistic approach to the study of textiles and their makers, Colleen Kriger charts the role cotton has played in commercial, community, and labor settings in West Africa. By paying close attention to the details of how people made, exchanged, and wore cotton cloth from before industrialization in Europe to the twentieth century, she is able to demonstrate some of the cultural effects of Africa's long involvement in trading contacts with Muslim societies and with Europe. Cloth in West African History thus offers a fresh perspective on the history of the region and on the local, regional, and global processes that shaped it. A variety of readers will find its account and insights into the African past and culture valuable, and will appreciate the connections made between the local concerns of small-scale weavers in African villages, the emergence of an indigenous textile industry, and its integration into international networks.

By the mid-1930s, Pennsylvania’s anthracite coal industry was facing a steady decline. Mining areas such as the Wyoming Valley around the cities of Wilkes-Barre and Pittston were full of willing workers (including women) who proved irresistibly attractive to New York City’s “runaway shops”—ladies’ apparel factories seeking lower labor and other costs. The International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) soon followed, and the Valley became a thriving hub of clothing production and union activity. This volume tells the story of the area’s apparel industry through the voices of men and women who lived it. Drawing from an archive of over sixty audio-recorded interviews within the Northeastern Pennsylvania Oral and Life History Collection, Sewn in Coal Country showcases sixteen stories told by workers, shop owners, union leaders, and others. The interview subjects recount the ILGWU-led movement to organize the shops, the conflicts between the district union and the national office in New York, the solidarity unionism approach of leader Min Matheson, the role of organized crime within the business, and the failed efforts to save the industry in the 1980s and 1990s. Robert P. Wolensky places the narratives in the larger context of American clothing manufacturing during the period and highlights their broader implications for the study of labor, gender, the working class, and oral history. Highly readable and thoroughly enlightening, this significant contribution to the study of labor history and women’s history will appeal to anyone interested in the relationships among workers, unions, management, and community; the effects of economic change on an area and its residents; the role of organized crime within the industry; and Pennsylvania history—especially the social history of industrialization and deindustrialization during the twentieth century.

Oh, Men, with Sisters dear! Oh, Men, with Mothers and Wives! It is not linen you re wearing out, But human creatures lives! Stitch stitch stitch, In poverty, hunger and dirt, Sewing at once, with a double thread, A Shroud as well as a Shirt. --from The Song of the Shirt by Thomas Hood (1843) Labour in Bangladesh flows like its rivers -- in excess of what is required. Often, both take a huge toll. Labour that costs $1.66 an hour in China and 52 cents in India can be had for a song in Bangladesh -- 18 cents. It is mostly women and children working in fragile, flammable buildings who bring in 70 per cent of the country s foreign exchange. Bangladesh today does not clothe the nakedness of the world, but provides it with limitless cheap garments -- through Primark, Walmart, Benetton, Gap. In elegiac prose, Jeremy Seabrook dwells upon the disproportionate sacrifices demanded by the manufacture of such throwaway items as baseball caps. He shows us how Bengal and Lancashire offer mirror images of impoverishment and affluence. In the eighteenth century, the people of Bengal were dispossessed of ancient skills and the workers of Lancashire forced into labour settlements.In a ghostly replay of traffic in the other direction, the decline of the British textile industry coincided with Bangladesh becoming one of the world s major clothing exporters. With capital becoming more protean than ever, it wouldn t be long before the global imperium readies to shift its sites of exploitation in its nomadic cultivation of profit.