The apparel and textiles industry is one of the industries most affected by globalization, and involves complex relationships that are constantly evolving. This carefully-researched book, formally Plunkett's Apparel & Textiles Industry Almanac, covers exciting trends in apparel and textile supply chains; manufacturing; design; women's, men's and children's fashions; shoes; accessories; retailing; trade; distribution; technologies; and smart fabrics. It includes a thorough market analysis as well as our highly respected trends analysis. It also includes thousands of contacts for business and industry leaders, industry associations, Internet sites and other resources. In addition, this book features extensive statistical tables, an industry glossary and thorough indexes. We are careful to detail the latest developments in global trade agreements, third party logistics and retail chain stores, along with important news from China and other emerging nations. The corporate profiles section of the book includes our proprietary, in-depth profiles of the 350 leading companies in all facets of the apparel and textiles industry. Major retailers, distributors, manufacturers and designers are covered thoroughly. You'll find a complete overview, industry analysis and market research report in one superb, value-priced package.

Quality is a form of management that is composed of the double approach of driving an organization towards excellence, while conforming to established standards and laws. The objective of quality confers advantages to companies: it makes them more resilient to change that can be unexpected or even chaotic; it makes them more competitive by identifying those steps in processes that do not offer added value. No longer the concern of a small community of experts, even scientists and engineers working in the private sector will find that they will have to con- front questions related to quality management in their day-to-day professional lives. This volume offers such people an unique entry into the universe of quality management, providing not only a cartography of quality standards and their modes of application - with particular attention to the ISO standards - but also a broader cultural context, with chapters on the history, prizes, deontology and moral implications of systems of quality management. This book thus opens the door to all those eager to take the first steps to learning how the principles of quality are organized today, and how they can be applied to his or her own activity.

Water in Textiles and Apparel: Consumption, Footprint, and Life Cycle Assessment provides a thorough analysis of one of the most urgent issues facing the textiles industry. As water is essential to the textile production system, and as availability of water is reduced due to natural and anthropogenic factors, the industry must respond. With a thorough treatment of both life cycle assessment and water footprint perspectives, this book provides practical strategies for responsible water use across the textile supply chain. Readers will learn essential information from research and industry case studies that will help them understand the textile industry's role in this issue.

This is the first work on British textile exports to South America during the nineteenth century. During this period, textiles ranked among the most important manufactures traded in the world market and Britain was the foremost producer. Thanks to new data, this book demonstrates that British exports to South America were transacted at very high rates during the first decades after independence. This development was due to improvements in the packing of textiles; decreasing costs of production and introduction of free trade in Britain; falling ocean freight rates, marine insurance and import duties in South America; dramatic improvements in communications; and the introduction of better port facilities. Manuel Llorca-Jana explores the marketing chain of textile exports to South America and sheds light on South Americans' consumer behaviour. This book contains the most comprehensive database on Anglo-South American trade during the nineteenth century and fills an important gap in the historiography.

The textile industry is one of the oldest in the country, going back several centuries. The industry experienced recession from the mid-1960s to the 1980s. However, this trend is reversed after the early 1990s when domestic demand for textiles products as well as exports increased substantially. What factors have contributed to the growth of the industry? What kind of changes have occurred in the structure of exports of the industry and what are their implications? Has the growth of this labour-intensive industry generated adequate employment? This book addresses such debates and examines the process of growth of India's textile industry, focusing on its performance on the employment front since the 1980s. Using macro-level data, the book analyses determinants of domestic demand and challenges the general perception that the growth of the industry was primarily driven by an expansion in exports of textile products. It argues that structural changes such as inter-fibre and inter-sectoral shifts and capacity expansion involving modernization have contributed to decline in quantity as well as quality of employment generated by the industry.

Clothing for Children and Teenagers: Anthropometry, Sizing and Fit addresses the complexities of developing size specifications for clothing aimed at seven to seventeen year olds. Children and teenagers experience rapid physical growth and alterations in body shape as they develop-changes that pose significant challenges in creating apparel sizing systems. The book begins by introducing the principles of apparel fit and sizing systems. Drawing on the author's own fieldwork, it goes on to discuss methods of conducting anthropometric surveys in children and teenagers, and techniques for analyzing the resulting data in order to produce successful sizing systems.

Performance Testing of Textiles: Methods, Technology and Applications examines the developed and established methodology for testing performance textiles, also summarizing the material properties for advanced applications. This book emphasizes reproducible tests using commonly used experimental methods reported in scientific literature and internationally recognized testing standards to quantify textile material properties and performance. After an introductory explanation of key fiber and textile properties and testing methods, the book summarizes electronic testing theories, technologies, and instrumentation for performance textiles. Also covered are aspects of military textile, medical textile, sportswear, smart composites, and wearable textiles which, as examples, present the latest research and results related to performance textile testing and applications.

Advances in Technical Nonwovens presents the latest information on the nonwovens industry, a dynamic and fast-growing industry with recent technological innovations that are leading to the development of novel end-use applications. The book reviews key developments in technical nonwoven manufacturing, specialist materials, and applications, with Part One covering important developments in materials and manufacturing technologies, including chapters devoted to fibers for technical nonwovens, the use of green recycled and biopolymer materials, and the application of nanofibres. The testing of nonwoven properties and the specialist area of composite nonwovens are also reviewed, with Part Two offering a detailed and wide-ranging overview of the many applications of technical nonwovens that includes chapters on automotive textiles, filtration, energy applications, geo- and agrotextiles, construction, furnishing, packaging and medical and hygiene products.

Advances in Women's Intimate Apparel Technology discusses the design and manufacture of intimate apparel and how the industry is increasingly embracing novel materials, new technologies, and innovations in sizing and fit. The book reviews the ways in which new materials and methods are improving the range, function, and quality of intimate apparel, with particular focus on brassiere design. Part One introduces the advanced materials used for intimate apparel, including novel fabrics and dyes and finishes, along with materials for wiring and embellishments. Part Two discusses the role of seamless technology in intimate apparel production, covering lamination, moulding, and seamless knitting. Finally, Part Three reviews advances in design, fit, and performance.

Information Systems for the Fashion and Apparel Industry brings together trends and developments in fashion information systems, industrial case-studies, and insights from an international team of authors. The fashion and apparel industry is fast-growing and highly influential. Computerized information systems are essential to support fashion business operations and recent developments in social media, mobile commerce models, radio frequency identification (RFID) technologies, and ERP systems are all driving innovative business measures in the industry. After an introductory chapter outlining key decision points and information requirements in fast fashion supply chains, Part One focuses on the principles of fashion information systems, with chapters covering how decision making in the apparel supply chains can be improved through the use of fuzzy logic, RFID technologies, evolutionary optimization techniques, and artificial neural networks. Part Two then reviews the range of applications for information systems in the fashion and apparel industry to improve customer choice, aid design, implement intelligent forecasting and procurement systems, and manage inventory and returns.

In recent years, the study of textiles and culture has become a dynamic field of scholarship, reflecting new global, material and technological possibilities. This is the first handbook of specially commissioned essays to provide a guide to the major strands of critical work around textiles past and present and to draw upon the work of artists and designers as well as researchers in textiles studies. The handbook offers an authoritative and wide-ranging guide to the topics, issues, and questions that are central to the study of textiles today: it examines how material practices reflect cross-cultural influences; it explores textiles' relationships to history, memory, place, and social and technological change; and considers their influence on fashion and design, sustainable production, craft, architecture, curation and contemporary textile art practice. This illustrated volume will be essential reading for students and scholars involved in research on textiles and related subjects such as dress, costume and fashion, feminism and gender, art and design, and cultural history. Cover image: Anne Wilson, To Cross (Walking New York), 2014. Site-specific performance and sculpture at The Drawing Center, NYC. Thread cross research. Photo: Christie Carlson/Anne Wilson Studio.

Sustainability is an issue that increasingly concerns all those involved in the apparel industry, including textile manufacturers, apparel designers, retailers and consumers. This important book covers recent advances and novel technologies in the key areas of production, processing and recycling of apparel. Part One addresses sustainable finishing and dyeing processes for textiles. The first two chapters concentrate on the environmental impact of fabric finishing, including water consumption, emissions and waste management. Further chapters focus on plasma and enzymatic treatments for sustainable textile processing, and the potential for improving the sustainability of dyeing technologies. Part Two covers issues of design, retail and recycling, and includes discussions of public attitudes towards sustainability in fashion, methods of measuring apparel sustainability and social trends in the re-use of apparel.

'An interesting and important account.' Daily Telegraph Have you ever stopped and wondered where your jeans came from? Who made them and where? Ever wondered where they end up after you donate them for recycling? Following a pair of jeans, Clothing Poverty takes the reader on a vivid around-the-world tour to reveal how clothes are manufactured and retailed, bringing to light how fast fashion and clothing recycling are interconnected. Andrew Brooks shows how recycled clothes are traded across continents, uncovers how retailers and international charities are embroiled in commodity chains which perpetuate poverty, and exposes the hidden trade networks which transect the globe. Stitching together rich narratives, from Mozambican markets, Nigerian smugglers and Chinese factories to London's vintage clothing scene, TOMS shoes and Vivienne Westwood's ethical fashion lines, Brooks uncovers the many hidden sides of fashion.

The story of Irish linen is a story of the Irish people. Many thousands of men and women made Irish linen a global product and an international brand. It is also a story of innovation and opportunity. Irish linen has served its makers as sail cloth of incredible strength and durability for world exploration; it has functioned as watertight containers for farmers and firemen; it has soothed the brows of royalty and absorbed the sweat of the working class. As outerwear and underwear, linen has covered the bodies of men, women, and children from birth to death--the rich and powerful, poor and pitiful alike. Into this cultural history, Kathleen Curtis Wilson weaves personal narratives, giving the story a voice: words and songs of individual spinners, factory workers, and out-workers like Sarah McCabe, who created fabulous linen lace; Sarah Leech, who wrote poetry as she spun fine thread; the three Patterson women, who worked in Mossley Mill for a total of one hundred years; and the Herdman brothers, who settled in County Tyrone to build a mill and a utopian community. Lavishly illustrated and engagingly written, each chapter tells of art, social and economic history, design, architecture, technology, and cultural traditions that celebrate the industry of making linen, a highly useful and desirable commodity that helped transport Irish people across the Atlantic to influence the settling of North America.

Many Latino and Chinese women who immigrated to New York City over the past two decades found work in the garment industry-an industry well known for both hiring immigrants and its harsh working conditions. Today the garment industry is one of the largest immigrant employers in New York City and workers in Chinese- and Korean-owned factories produce 70 percent of all manufactured clothing in New York City. Based on extensive interviews with workers and employers, Margaret M. Chin, offers a detailed and complex portrait of the work lives of Chinese and Latino garment workers. Chin, whose mother and aunts worked in Chinatown's garment industry, also explores how immigration status, family circumstances, ethnic relations, and gender affect the garment industry workplace. In turn, she analyzes how these factors affect whom employers hire and what wages and benefits are given to the employees.

Chin's study contrasts the working conditions and hiring practices of Korean- and Chinese-owned factories. Her comparison of the two practices illuminates how ethnic ties both improve and hinder opportunities for immigrants. While both sectors take advantage of workers and are characterized by low wages and lax enforcement of safety regulations-there are crucial differences. In the Chinese sector, owners encourage employees, almost entirely female, to recruit new workers, especially friends and family. Though Chinese workers tend to be documented and unionized, this work arrangement allows owners to maintain a more paternalistic relationship with their employees. Gender also plays a major role in channeling women into the garment industry, as Chinese immigrants, particularly those with children, tend to maintain traditional gender roles in the workplace. Korean-owned shops, however, hire mostly undocumented Mexican and Ecuadorian workers, both male and female. These workers tend not to have children and are thus less tied to traditional gender roles. Unlike their Chinese counterparts, Korean employers hire workers on their own terms and would rather not allow current employees to influence their decisions.

Chin's work also provides an overview of the history of the garment industry, examines immigration strategies, and concludes with a discussion of changes in the industry in the aftermath of 9/11.

By the mid-1930s, Pennsylvania’s anthracite coal industry was facing a steady decline. Mining areas such as the Wyoming Valley around the cities of Wilkes-Barre and Pittston were full of willing workers (including women) who proved irresistibly attractive to New York City’s “runaway shops”—ladies’ apparel factories seeking lower labor and other costs. The International Ladies’ Garment Workers’ Union (ILGWU) soon followed, and the Valley became a thriving hub of clothing production and union activity. This volume tells the story of the area’s apparel industry through the voices of men and women who lived it. Drawing from an archive of over sixty audio-recorded interviews within the Northeastern Pennsylvania Oral and Life History Collection, Sewn in Coal Country showcases sixteen stories told by workers, shop owners, union leaders, and others. The interview subjects recount the ILGWU-led movement to organize the shops, the conflicts between the district union and the national office in New York, the solidarity unionism approach of leader Min Matheson, the role of organized crime within the business, and the failed efforts to save the industry in the 1980s and 1990s. Robert P. Wolensky places the narratives in the larger context of American clothing manufacturing during the period and highlights their broader implications for the study of labor, gender, the working class, and oral history. Highly readable and thoroughly enlightening, this significant contribution to the study of labor history and women’s history will appeal to anyone interested in the relationships among workers, unions, management, and community; the effects of economic change on an area and its residents; the role of organized crime within the industry; and Pennsylvania history—especially the social history of industrialization and deindustrialization during the twentieth century.

The 7th Edition of Who's Who in Fashion captures the energy, drama, excitement, and diversity of the luminaries working in the world of fashion. This lushly illustrated book features profiles of fashion legends as well as newcomers who make up the rich tapestry of the fashion industry, spanning designers, photographers, costume designers, writers/editors, illustrators, companies, accessory designers, makeup/cosmetic specialists, and fashion conglomerates. This new edition includes over 400 profiles, 90 of which are new, and 820 images, making this a must-have reference for fashion students, historians, costume curators, and fashion enthusiasts alike. New Profiles Virgil Abloh, Haider Ackermann, Adidas, Adnym, AEFFE, Mike Amiri, Imran Amed, Jonathan Anderson, Paul Andrew, Rosie Assoulin, Kevyn Aucoin, Brendon Babenzien (Noah), BCBGMAXAZRIA, Ritu Beri, Christopher Bevans (DYNE), Blair Breitenstein, Bobbi Brown, Sarah Burton, Giuliano Calza, Ruth Carter, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Moon Choi, Clo 3D, Conde Nast, Peter Copping, Carly Cushnie, Drew Elliot, Edward Enninful, Erdem, Fenty, Ronnie Fieg (Kith), Nicola Formichetti, Furla, Alexander Fury, Mansur Gavriel, H&M, Han Chong (Self-Portrait), Tinker Hatfield, Aurora James, Bouchra Jarrar, Kerby Jean-Raymond (Pyer Moss), James Jebbia (Supreme), Claire Keller, Kering, Laura Kim (Monse), Nick Knight, Loewe, Jerry Lorenzo (Fear of God), LVMH, Brandon Maxwell, Laura Mercier, Alessandro Michelle, MISBHV, Bibhu Mohapatra, Samira Nasr, Irene Neuwirth, Nigo (BAPE), Nike, Noon by Noor, Opening Ceremony, OTB Group, Guo Pei, Heron Preston, Public School, PVH Corp., Richemont, Patrick Robinson, Martine Rose, Olivier Rousteing, Miles Socha, Franca Sozzani, Stussy, Superdry, Zang Toi, Uniqlo, The Vampire's Wife, Iris van Herpen, VF Corporation, Rhuigi Villasenor (Rhude), Junya Watanabe, Wooyoungmi, Y/Project, Lynn Yaeger, ZARA, Ermenegildo Zegna Instructor's Guide, Test Bank, PowerPoint presentations, and third party video links available.

Assessing the Environmental Impact of Textiles and the Clothing Supply Chain, Second Edition, is a fully updated, practical guide on how to identify and respond to environmental challenges across the supply chain. This new edition features updates to important data on environmental impacts and their measurements, the sustainable use of water and electricity, and new legislation, standards and schemes. Chapters provide an introduction to the textile supply chain and an overview of the methods used to measure environmental impacts, including greenhouse gas emissions, water and energy footprints, and a lifecycle assessment (LCA) on environmental impacts. This book will be a standard reference for R&D managers in the textile industry and academic researchers in textile science.

The properties of woven and knitted fabrics differ largely due to the path yarn follows in the fabric structure. This path determines the fabric's physical properties, mechanical properties, and appearance. A slight variation to the design may result in entirely different properties for the fabric. Structural Textile Design provides detailed insight on different types of designs used for the production of woven and knitted fabrics, highlighting the effect design has on a fabric's properties and applications. With focus on the techniques used to draw designs and produce them on weaving and knitting machines, this book will be of great interest to textile engineers, professionals and graduate students in textile technology and manufacturing.

This book aims to provide a broad conceptual and theoretical perspective of apparel manufacturing process starting from raw material selection to packaging and dispatch of goods. Further, engineering practices followed in an apparel industry for production planning and control, line balancing, implementation of industrial engineering concepts in apparel manufacturing, merchandising activities and garment costing have been included, and they will serve as a foundation for future apparel professionals. The book addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process with considered quality aspects. This book also covers the production planning process and production balancing activities. It addresses the technical aspects in each section of garment manufacturing process and quality aspects to be considered in each process. Garment engineering questions each process/operation of the total work content and can reduce the work content and increase profitability by using innovative methods of construction and technology. This book covers the production planning process, production balancing activities, and application of industrial engineering concepts in garment engineering. Further, the merchandising activities and garment costing procedures will deal with some practical examples. This book is primarily intended for textile technology and fashion technology students in universities and colleges, researchers, industrialists and academicians, as well as professionals in the apparel and textile industry.

This new volume reviews recent academic and technological developments behind new engineered modified nanotextile materials. The developments in textiles using nanotechnology give ordinary materials improved properties, such as better water resistance, enhanced moisture and odor reduction, increased strength and elasticity, and resistance to bacteria, among other improvements. The research reported in this book presents state-of-the-art technology in modern materials with an emphasis on the rapidly growing technologies in textile engineering. Several innovative applications for different materials are described in considerable detail with emphasis on the experimental data that supports these new applications. From nano-fibers to chemical materials, creative modifications concerning new nanocomposites are described that could one day become commonplace. The book covers a host of topics in this area, including the design of new textile products, moisture and heat transfer in clothing, developments in electrospinning, new applications, nanotextile and tissue engineering from a biological perspective, and more. The book is intended for researchers and those interested in future developments in mechanical and physicochemical characteristics of modified nanotextile materials and polymer blends. The book will also be a useful tool for students and researchers, providing helpful insights into new evolving research areas in nanostructured polymer blends and composites in textiles.

Fast fashion is an industrial trend that refers to the concept of shortening lead time (production, distribution) and offering new products to the market as fast as possible. Despite an abundance of research results, there is no comprehensive reference source that covers the state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical modeling and empirical research on fast fashion systems. This edited volume consists of three sections - review and exploratory studies, analytical models, and empirical research - made up of many interesting contributions in the respective domain. The result is a well-balanced handbook which includes both theoretical results (from various perspectives) and empirical findings. This volume will be of interest not only to those involved in the fashion industry, but also to academics and practitioners in the wider fields of business, manufacturing engineering, systems engineering and supply chain management.

This book explores the fascinating history and present-day practices associated with cotton. This is a story of commercial and cultural enterprise, of the ties and tensions between East and West, of technological and industrial revolution, social modernization, colonialism and slavery. Cotton's history mirrors profound global transformations. And cotton remains one of the most significant mass commodities today. Cotton's track record on labor conditions in factories and plantations has tarnished its history and reputation, even as cotton clothes became the hallmark of modern industrialized society. Cotton expressed popular fashions and popular politics in dynamic ways. Yet cottons also take other cultural forms and are part of vibrant craft traditions in many parts of the world. This book explores the history, impact and ongoing life of this hugely influential textile.