Channel 4's The Mill captivated viewers with the tales of the lives of the young girls and boys in a northern mill. Focusing on the lives of the apprentices at Quarry Bank Mill, David Hanson's book uses a wealth of first-person source material including letters, diaries, mill records, to tell the stories of the children who lived and worked at Quarry Bank throughout the nineteenth century. This book perfectly accompanies the television series, satisfying viewers' curiosity about the history of the children of Quarry Bank. It reveals the real lives of the television series' main characters: Esther, Daniel, Lucy and Susannah, showing how shockingly close to the truth the dramatisation is. But the book also goes far beyond this to create a full and vivid picture of factory life in the industrial revolution. David Hanson has written an accessible narrative history of Victorian working children and the conditions in which they worked.

Nordic Baby Crochet includes easy to follow crochet patterns to create beautiful baby clothes and accessories without the need for arduous assembly. Nordic Baby Crochet features 35 patterns for adorable clothing and accessories for babies. With accessible step-by-step guides, the patterns are suitable for experienced crocheters as well as for those just starting with crochet. Here are patterns for cardigans, dresses, bibs, blankets, hats and more. All projects are assembly-free and achieve a modern Scandinavian look with simple patterns and elegant colours of your choosing. Crochet has a somewhat unfair reputation for being uncomfortable and tight. However, Charlotte Kofoed Westh, with her individual crochet technique, smart choice of patterns and the right yarn ensures that the pieces in this book are snug, elastic and comfortable. This is crochet in a whole new way, a far cry from the rigid designs that many associate with crochet.

In today's world of unequal globalization, Bangladesh has drawn international attention for the spate of factory disasters that have taken the lives of numerous garment workers, mostly young women. The contemporary garment industry-and the labor organizing pushing back-draws on a long history of gendered labor division and exploitation in East Bengal, the historical antecedent of Bangladesh. Yet despite the centrality of women's labor to anticolonial protest and postcolonial state-building, historiography has struggled with what appears to be its absence from the archive. Poulomi Saha offers an innovative account of women's political labor in East Bengal over more than a century, one that suggests new ways to think about textiles and the gendered labors of their making. An Empire of Touch argues that women have articulated-in writing, in political action, in stitching-their own desires in their own terms. They produce narratives beyond women's empowerment and independence as global and national projects; they refuse critical pronouncements of their own subjugation. Saha follows the historical traces of how women have claimed their own labor, contending that their political commitments are captured in the material objects of their manufacture. Her analysis of the production of historical memory through and by the bodies of women spans British colonialism and American empire, anticolonial nationalism to neoliberal globalization, depicting East Bengal between development economics and postcolonial studies. Through a material account of text and textile, An Empire of Touch crafts a new narrative of gendered political labor under empire.

Providing detailed analysis of the thermal comfort assessment of clothing as the basis for developing standards, this book discusses the thermal protective role of clothing as a way of modelling heat transfer from the body, general thermal regulation of humans, and the importance of globally accepted test methods and standards to improve quality. New materials and discoveries in the study of thermal comfort necessitate the need for standard improvements and update. The development of international standards and the unification of testing methods is of crucial significance to ensure cost reduction and health protection. The book promotes instruments, methods, implementation of unified specifications, and the definition of standards so that a clear quality management system can be established, for both production systems and testing methods. It discusses standards in ergonomics of the thermal environment, clothing thermal characteristics, and subjective assessment of thermal comfort, which allows for systematic control of the measuring methods and the services and final products that are distributed on the global market. This book is aimed at industry professionals, researchers, and advanced students working in textile and clothing engineering, comfort testing, and ergonomics.

The journalist and politician Edward Baines (1800-90) succeeded his father as editor of the Leeds Mercury and as MP for Leeds. From a dissenting family, he was a social reformer but passionately believed that the state should not interfere in matters such as working hours and education. In this 1835 work, he sees the cotton industry as an exemplar of the unity of 'the manufactory, the laboratory, and the study of the natural philosopher', in making practical use of creative ideas and scientific discoveries. He surveys cotton manufacture from its origins to its 'second birth' in England, and focuses on the current state of machinery, trade and working conditions in all aspects of the business, and its outputs, including cloth, lace, stockings and cotton wool. This comprehensive work was important for its detailed analysis of a vital commercial activity, and remains so today for the historical information it contains.

In this book, Nina Sylvanus tells a captivating story of global trade and cross-cultural aesthetics in West Africa, showing how a group of Togolese women through the making and circulation of wax cloth became influential agents of taste and history. Traveling deep into the shifting terrain of textile manufacture, design, and trade, she follows wax cloth around the world and through time to unveil its critical role in colonial and postcolonial patterns of exchange and value production. Sylvanus brings wax cloth's unique and complex history to light: born as a nineteenth-century Dutch colonial effort to copy Javanese batik cloth for Southeast Asian markets, it was reborn as a status marker that has dominated the visual economy of West African markets. Although most wax cloth is produced in China today, it continues to be central to the expression of West African women's identity and power. As Sylvanus shows, wax cloth expresses more than this global motion of goods, capital, aesthetics, and labor it is a form of archive where intimate and national memories are stored, always ready to be reanimated by human touch. By uncovering this crucial aspect of West African material culture, she enriches our understanding of global trade, the mutual negotiations that drive it, and the how these create different forms of agency and subjectivity.

This book was first published in 1960. Its author, W. G. Rimmer, here forms a case study of the Marshalls of Leeds, and their progress and prominence in the field of flax spinning since the outbreak of the French War in 1793. The founder of Marshall and Co., John Marshall, was made a millionaire by the company's success. In documenting the company's economic history, Rimmer draws upon private ledgers, stock books, score letters and notebooks, primarily spanning the years 1806-46. He aims to give a thorough and engaging narrative account of this family and their firm by drawing upon their relationships with the citizens of Leeds, politicians, customers and landowners, as well as looking at the internal development of their business. This engaging and thoroughly researched book will be of great interest to any scholars of nineteenth-century industry in general, or the industrial history of Leeds more specifically.

Originally published in 1959, this book surveys the changes in the social origins and career patterns of the leaders of two British industries during the previous century. The biographies of about 1000 managing partners and executive directors from the hosiery industry are pieced together from a variety of sources. Changes in social origins and career patterns are analysed and comparisons made between the leaders of these two very different industries in an attempt to isolate the influence of industry's size and capital requirements on management recruitment. Where possible, comparisons are also made with various studies of American industrial leaders and with other investigations of British industrialists. The book attempts to provide an empirical basis for generalisations about British industrial leadership during the century in which her role in world manufacturing was transformed from that of quasi-monopolist to one of competitor with many other countries.

The wool market was extremely important to the English medieval economy and wool dominated the English export trade from the late thirteenth century to its decline in the late fifteenth century. Wool was at the forefront of the establishment of England as a European political and economic power and this 2007 volume was the first study of the medieval wool market in over 20 years. It investigates in detail the scale and scope of advance contracts for the sale of wool; the majority of these agreements were formed between English monasteries and Italian merchants, and the book focuses on the data contained within them. The pricing structures and market efficiency of the agreements are examined, employing practices from modern finance. A detailed case study of the impact of entering into such agreements on medieval English monasteries is also presented, using the example of Pipewell Abbey in Northamptonshire.

The changing patterns of production and trade in fibres, textiles and clothing provide a classic case study of the dynamics of our interdependent world economy. For centuries Asia supplied the textile factories of Europe with natural fibres, including silk from East Asia exports virtually no natural fibres and instead is the world's most important exporter of manufactured textile products and chief importer of fibres. New Silk Roads, first published in 1992, demonstrates that despite the import barriers erected by advanced economies, textiles and clothing production continues to serve as an engine of growth for developing economies seeking to export their way out of poverty. This book is based on selected papers given at a conference which discussed East Asia's role in world fibre, textile and clothing markets. It draws on trade and development theory as well as on historical evidence to trace the development of these changing markets, which are now dominated by the newly industrialized economies of Korea, Taiwan and Hong Kong and, increasingly, China and Thailand.

An Economic History of the Silk Industry, 1830-1930, first published in 1997, is an ambitious historical analysis of the development of a major commodity. Dr Federico examines the rapid growth of the world silk industry from the early nineteenth century to the eve of the Great Depression of the 1930s. Silk production grew as a result of Western industrialisation, which in turn brought about increased incomes and thus increased demand for silk products. The author documents the changes in methods of production and the technical progress that enabled the silk industry to cope with this new influx in demand. Dr Federico then discusses the significant changes in the geographical distribution of world output that accompanied this growth. In conclusion, Federico points out that silk did indeed becomes the first example of a Japanese success story on the world market, Italy and China both losing their markets due to Japan's large agricultural supply of raw material (cocoons) and its adroitness in importing and adopting Western technology.

This is a study of industrial unrest in the cotton industry at a time when the economy was on the threshold of mid-Victorian prosperity, and when Chartism was still much more than a memory. The town of Preston was the crucial battlefield, and here the masters and men fought out a bitter trial of strength. The strike of 1853-54 closed the Preston cotton industry for seven months, and disrupted production in many other towns in Lancashire. Against the implacable opposition of the masters, the strikers toured the country to organize support, and raised GBP100,000 in subscriptions from their fellow operatives. The dispute featured prominently in the national and provincial press, and the weavers' delegates, notably George Cowell and Mortimer Grimshaw, became celebrities overnight. After five months, the employers brought in blackleg labour, and when the detested `knobsticks' failed to break the strike they had the operatives' leaders arrested. These moves did not deter the cotton workers, who were forced back to work only when their financial reserves were exhausted. Their campaign ended defiantly, as it had begun, with cries of `Ten Per Cent still, and no surrender'. This book is their story.

'No other group of workers in the history of the English working-class has received more sympathy and less scholarly attention than the handloom weavers of the Lancashire cotton industry during the Industrial Revolution.' Mr Bythell's is a detailed study of this important group. His aim is to examine the transition from the domestic system to the factory system in cotton weaving in the first half of the nineteenth century. He provides detailed information on the geographical distribution of handloom weaving, the size and structure of the labour force, the varying history of employment, wages and standard of life, the efforts made by the weavers to alleviate their distress through industrial and political action, and their final displacement and disappearance. The results of his research enable Mr Bythell to challenge several of the generally accepted views about the weavers.

The wool market was extremely important to the English medieval economy and wool dominated the English export trade from the late thirteenth century to its decline in the late fifteenth century. Wool was at the forefront of the establishment of England as a European political and economic power and this volume is the first study of the medieval wool market in over 20 years. It investigates in detail the scale and scope of advance contracts for the sale of wool; the majority of these agreements were formed between English monasteries and Italian merchants, and the book focuses on the data contained within them. The pricing structures and market efficiency of the agreements are examined, employing practices from modern finance. A detailed case study of the impact of entering into such agreements on medieval English monasteries is also presented, using the example of Pipewell Abbey in Northamptonshire.

This book explores the long-term forces shaping business attitudes in the British and American cotton industries from the eighteenth to the twentieth century. Mary Rose traces social, political and developmental differences from the early stages of industrialization. She demonstrates how firms become embedded in networks, and evolve according to business values and strategies. The book examines local and regional networks, the changing competitive environment, community characteristics and national differences. Rose's findings challenge traditional views with new evidence that the character and achievements of each industry uniquely reflect local circumstances and historical experience. This is a critical synthesis of the multidisciplinary literature on the cotton textile industries of two major industrial nations and a study of the changing forces influencing decision making. An important contribution to comparative business history, this book will be of interest to graduates and scholars in all areas of business and economic history.

Like cotton, indigo has defied its humble origins. Left alone it might have been a regional plant with minimal reach, a localized way of dyeing textiles, paper, and other goods with a bit of blue. But when blue became the most popular color for the textiles that Britain turned out in large quantities in the eighteenth century, the South Carolina indigo that colored most of this cloth became a major component in transatlantic commodity chains. In "Red, White, and Black Make Blue," Andrea Feeser tells the stories of all the peoples who made indigo a key part of the colonial South Carolina experience as she explores indigo's relationships to land use, slave labor, textile production and use, sartorial expression, and fortune building.
In the eighteenth century, indigo played a central role in the development of South Carolina. The popularity of the color blue among the upper and lower classes ensured a high demand for indigo, and the climate in the region proved sound for its cultivation. Cheap labor by slaves--both black and Native American--made commoditization of indigo possible. And due to land grabs by colonists from the enslaved or expelled indigenous peoples, the expansion into the backcountry made plenty of land available on which to cultivate the crop. Feeser recounts specific histories--uncovered for the first time during her research--of how the Native Americans and African slaves made the success of indigo in South Carolina possible. She also emphasizes the material culture around particular objects, including maps, prints, paintings, and clothing. "Red, White, and Black Make Blue" is a fraught and compelling history of both exploitation and empowerment, revealing the legacy of a modest plant with an outsized impact.

How has the firm of Swaine Adeney Brigg, one of Britain's oldest and most prestigious manufacturers of leather goods and umbrellas, survived for so long? What are the ingredients of its lasting success? This book charts how the company has kept pace with the shifting needs and demands of the marketplace, seizing trading opportunities, for the most part successfully, along the way. Swaine & Adeney began as makers of driving, riding, and hunting whips, becoming whip-makers to the royal family. With the coming of the railways, horse-drawn transport was greatly reduced and demand for whips shifted away from driving accessories to hunting and fashionable riding accessories. As the twentieth century dawned Swaine & Adeney survived the advent of the motor car by applying their leatherworking skills also to the making of luggage. Other equestrian accessory companies were absorbed: J. Kohler & Son, makers of coaching and hunting horns, and G. & J. Zair Ltd, whip-makers of Birmingham. In the dark days of 1943, Thomas Brigg & Sons, London's leading umbrella and walking-stick manufacturers joined forces with Swaine & Adeney, bringing with them their own long and impressive history of craftsmanship and royal patronage. Together, as Swaine Adeney Brigg, they emerged into the post-war era with renewed vigour. The hatters Herbert Johnson and the luggage-making arm of Papworth Industries were later added to the group. Neville Chamberlain, Margot Fonteyn, Augustus John, and Stirling Moss have been among the proud owners of the group's stylish products, and Harrison Ford as Indiana Jones and Peter Sellers as Inspector Clouseau both wore Herbert Johnson hats.

A model of clarity... It provides absolutely essential reference material for the dress historian and archaeologist, for the early textile specialist, and those interested in the tools and equipment used. TOOL AND TRADES HISTORY SOCIETY NEWSLETTER [Linda Woolley, curator of early and medieval textiles and dress, V&A Museum] Among the most evocative items to be discovered by archaeologists are the scraps of silk and wool and other fabrics that signal so eloquently their owner's status and concerns. Such clothing and textile finds have figured prominently in excavations of medieval sites in London in the past two decades; they have included knitting, tapestries, silk hair-nets and elaborately patterned oriental, Islamic and Italian fabrics, which reveal for the first time the wide range of cloths available to medieval Londoners; there are beautifully made buttons, and buttonholes and edgings which display superb craftsmanship and a high level of needlework skills; the way that clothes were cut and sewncan be studied in detail. This highly readable account will be of wide general interest; dress historians and archaeologists will also find a wealth of new insights into the fashions, clothing and textile industries of medieval England and Europe. Contents include: The Excavations, Techniques used in Textile Production, Wool Textiles, Goathair Textiles, Linen Textiles, Silk Textiles, Mixed Cloths, Narrow Wares, Sewing Techniques and Tailoring, Dyes. THE AUTHORS Past and present staff of the Museum of London.

A visual goldmine for designers of original print, weave and embellishment, Sourcing Ideas for Textile Design will help you generate new ideas, develop them methodically and finally create beautifully designed textiles. The carefully selected range of images illustrate how to use visual information in this process from a variety of sources, breaking down the process into key themes - colour, surface, structure, texture and pattern. This second edition includes: * case studies and interviews with insight into visual research and development from revered practising designers, including Dries Van Noten and Reiko Sudo; * Spotlight sections offer historical or cultural perspectives on each point in the process; and, * new coverage of material investigation, colour analysis, presentation and curation, as well as advice on IP and copyright. You'll also be guided through the three stages of textile design where you will: * generate your idea; * work to develop it; and, * create your developed idea in the studio. By engaging with this approach, and exploring new ways of seeing ordinary things through the key themes, you'll learn to create incredible effects in your textile design.

This student lab manual reinforces the chapter content and lecture material from Apparel Quality, but may also be used as a standalone product in conjunction with another apparel quality textbook. With more than 30 hands-on lab activities and projects to enhance learning, the lab manual offers a greater understanding of quality issues that arise with apparel production and end use. Designed for courses that emphasize textile testing or offer a laboratory component, Apparel Quality Lab Manual includes supply lists; extensive reference tables; assignments for analyzing products, testing and evaluating materials and garments; project sheets for product comparison testing; worksheets to record data; directions for mounting specimens after testing; and templates for cutting specimens. Students will be actively engaged in their learning and participate in determining the quality level of apparel products, allowing them to simulate how apparel products are analyzed in the industry.

In Raw Material, Stephany Wilkes tells not only her own story, but also that of American wool. What begins as a knitter's search for local yarn becomes a dirty, unlikely, and irresistible side job. Wilkes become a certified sheep shearer and wool classer, working at the very first step in the textile supply chain, ultimately leaving her high-tech job for a new way of life considered long dead in the American West.

Das Buch stellt den Abschlussbericht zumVerbundprojekt KonText vor. Das wesentliche Anliegen des Verbundprojektes war die Reduzierung der Kosten von FVK-Bauteilen durch die Bereitstellung eines textilen Fertigungsprozesses und die nachfolgende Herstellung kraftflussgerechter thermoplastischer Faserverbundbauteile. Hierzu wurde die gesamte Prozesskette von der C-Faser-Optimierung, uber die Fertigungs- und Struktursimulation von kraftflussgerechten Textilien sowie Anlagenentwicklung und -erprobung bis zur Herstellung der Bauteile mittels klassischer Grossserientechnik "Umformen" bereitgestellt. Das Verbundprojekt wurde im Rahmen der ForschungsCampus Initiative "Open Hybrid LabFactory" durchgefuhrt.

International business, especially the export-import trade, is no longer an option, but a necessity for today's apparel industry to grow and generate profits or just to survive in the global marketplace. The decision to export or import is best based on a company or individual entrepreneur's careful and thorough analysis of its internal and external resources and capabilities. "Essentials of Exporting and Importing" provides the merchandising, marketing, or business student a practical, basic guide for importing and exporting products, services, or technology in a global economy."What You Need to Know "sections begin each chapter with a list of learning objectives that establishes a foundation of important concepts explored within the chapter. This helps readers build an industry-specific vocabulary with key terms defined in context within the chapter then bolded and highlighted in the margin--plus a new appendix of industry acronyms.Calling upon the knowledge and expertise of industry professionals and government officials as sources, the authors focus on the policies, procedures, and practices essential for success in the dynamic and expanding field of international trade.The 2nd Edition is fully updated with information on recent changes in U.S. export-import trade policies/procedures, current trade trends, and key trade relationships. Shoemack and Mink Rath expand the discussion of how to identify and enter emerging markets and increase coverage of how global trade issues--such as cultural, political, economic climates--effect the textile and apparel industries.New to this Edition: Quick studies of companies and entrepreneurs highlight chapter content in practice. Examples include: -L'Oreal and MAC: Health and Beauty Aids for Africa -Hall & Madden: Providing Customers with Bespoke Shirts at RTW Prices -Patagonia's Support of Growth and Sustainability

Until this century, Northern Nigeria was a major center of textile production and trade. Textile Ascendancies: Aesthetics, Production, and Trade in Northern Nigeria examines this dramatic change in textile aesthetics, technologies, and social values in order to explain the extraordinary shift in textile demand, production, and trade. Textile Ascendancies provides information for the study of the demise of textile manufacturing outside Nigeria. The book also suggests the conundrum considered by George Orwell concerning the benefits and disadvantages of "mechanical progress", and digital progress, for human existence. While textile mill workers in northern Nigeria were proud to participate in the mechanization of weaving, the "tendency for the mechanization of the world" represented by more efficient looms and printing equipment in China has contributed to the closing of Nigerian mills and unemployment. Textile Ascendancies will appeal to anthropologists for its analyses of social identity as well as how the ethnic identity of consumers influences continued handwoven textile production. The consideration of aesthetics and fashionable dress will appeal to specialists in textiles and clothing. It will be useful to economic historians for the comparative analysis of textile manufacturing decline in the 21st century. It will also be of interest to those thinking about global futures, about digitalization, and how new ways of making cloth and clothing may provide both employment and environmentally sound production practices.

Perry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation, 4th Edition, launches students into the exciting role of being a retail buyer in the fashion industry using a unique simulation approach that takes readers step-by-step through a real-life buying experience. The text is organized into 10 chapters that walk students through the various steps a new buyer would take to complete a six-month buying plan and a merchandise assortment plan for the women's contemporary apparel, junior apparel, women's accessories, men's apparel and accessories, men's contemporary apparel, children's, or home furnishings markets. The fourth edition has been revised with statistical information to reflect a more contemporary structure and business model for a successful department store. The new Perry's Department Store is organized to reflect a larger-scale department store in today's market. Students interact by researching current market and industry trends to build their business. The charts and worksheets in this book and companion website, Perry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation STUDIO, are replicas of those found in the retail and wholesale industry to expose students to the procedures and policies they can expect to find in a first job as an assistant buyer. This new edition and STUDIO launch students directly into the exciting role of a retail buyer in the fashion industry. Perry's Department Store: A Buying Simulation STUDIO - An online tool for more effective study! - Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips. - Review concepts with flashcards of terms and definitions. - Follow the text's steps and calculations with data and statistical information. - Download worksheets, Excel spreadsheets with embedded formulas and blank worksheets. - View industry catalogs and private label line sheets. - Link to additional resources to complete the buying simulation.