Preston was no ordinary town during the nineteenth century. While king cotton reigned supreme throughout Lancashire, the underlying ills associated with this industry were very often highlighted particularly starkly there. Child labour, shocking working conditions with appallingly long hours and pitifully low wages, as well as the constant risk of suffering horrific accidents in the cotton mills, all fostered a deep sense of hostility among the operatives towards the employers. Overcrowded and insanitary housing, disease, poverty and awful wretchedness were often to be witnessed in the fast-growing working-class districts of Preston.Against this backdrop the nascent trade unions and political and social reformers began to challenge the unbridled mastery of the millowners. Trade disputes, confrontations, lockouts, strikes and tragic episodes of violence were the inevitable consequence of this lethal mix of hardship and employer intransigence, and dominated affairs in the town for many years. This book by local author J.S. Leigh is a powerful indictment of the industrial system that caused such suffering to Preston's cotton 'martyrs'.

This third of the three volume series highlights the intricate relationship in the handloom industry between its culture and the various areas of sustainability. While there have been major disruptions in this age old industry, this volume presents the design, development and environmental aspects to keep the industry moving ahead. The book contains seven chapters written by leading experts in the areas and discusses means to revive some of the cultures that are on the verge of closing/shutting down.

** A RADIO 4 BOOK OF THE WEEK ** 'Fascinating . . . The history of the world through the eye of a needle . . . I recommend this book to anyone' THE SPECTATOR 'A charming, absorbing and history that takes us on a journey from the silk roads to sportswear, from ruffs to spacesuits . . . I devoured this quietly feminist book' SUNDAY TIMES 'Joyful and beautiful' NATURE 'Will make you rethink your relationship with fabric' ELLE DECORATION All textiles begin with a twist. From colourful 30,000-year old threads found on the floor of a Georgian cave to what the linen wrappings of Tutankhamun's mummy actually meant; from the Silk Roads to the woollen sails that helped the Vikings reach America 700 years before Columbus; from the lace ruffs that infuriated the puritans to the Indian calicoes and chintzes that powered the Industrial Revolution, our continuing reinvention of cloth tells fascinating stories of human ingenuity. When we talk of lives hanging by a thread, being interwoven, or part of the social fabric, we are part of a tradition that stretches back many thousands of years. Fabric has allowed us to achieve extraordinary things and survive in unlikely places, and this book shows you how -- and why. With a cast that includes Chinese empresses, Richard the Lionheart and Bing Crosby, Kassia St Clair takes us on the run with escaped slaves, climbing the slopes of Everest and moonwalking with astronauts. Running like a bright line through history, The Golden Thread offers an unforgettable adventure through our past, present and future.

This book highlights the Eco-design or Sustainable design in textiles and fashion, aimed at reducing their environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Sustainable design is one of the core elements practiced in various industrial sectors. The textiles and fashion sector, is also creating a huge environmental brunt in terms of various fibres, processes, consumption of various resources including dyes, chemicals and auxiliaries, etc,. Thus, sustainable design is the key to reduce the environmental impacts made out of textiles and fashion products. This book includes seven informative chapters to decipher the concept and applications of sustainable design in textiles and fashion.

This book focuses on the significant role of West African consumers in the development of the global economy. It explores their demand for Indian cotton textiles and how their consumption shaped patterns of global trade, influencing economies and businesses from Western Europe to South Asia. In turn, the book examines how cotton textile production in southern India responded to this demand. Through this perspective of a south-south economic history, the study foregrounds African agency and considers the lasting impact on production and exports in South Asia. It also considers how European commercial and imperial expansion provided a complex web of networks, linking West African consumers and Indian weavers. Crucially, it demonstrates the emergence of the modern global economy.

This seminal text demystifies all the terminology around working with textiles today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials and biobased textiles, intelligent and 3D manufacturing, new technologies, and processes. Entries cover everything from fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Highly illustrated with over 400 images, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses.

Water in Textiles and Apparel: Consumption, Footprint, and Life Cycle Assessment provides a thorough analysis of one of the most urgent issues facing the textiles industry. As water is essential to the textile production system, and as availability of water is reduced due to natural and anthropogenic factors, the industry must respond. With a thorough treatment of both life cycle assessment and water footprint perspectives, this book provides practical strategies for responsible water use across the textile supply chain. Readers will learn essential information from research and industry case studies that will help them understand the textile industry's role in this issue.

Fundamentals of Nano-Textile Science provides a detailed overview of advanced nano-textiles methods, techniques, and treatments along with explanations of a wide range of applications. This book places emphasis on nanotechnology-based textile enhancements that provide high durability, better affinity, and more functionality in textile material and that overcomes the limitation of conventional processes in the textile industry. The first section of the book deals with the production method of nano-textile fibers. It elaborates how nano-techniques are used for producing textile fiber and discusses various pretreatment processes of textile materials using such methods as nano-scouring, nanobiophotoscouring, nano-bleaching, nano-softening, and nano-surface activation. The second section discusses the wide range of nanofinishing applications to make textile materials antimicrobial, flame retardant, UV-protected, etc. It also discusses different techniques and treatments applied on the surface of the finished product using plasma technology or layer-by-layer deposition techniques. This section also covers nano-based textile applications such as for sports clothing, military textiles, high-performance clothing, or smart wearable high-tech nano-textiles. In the last section, the book concludes with an overview of nanotechnological advancements being used for the management of textile effluents and for removing dyes from wastewater in textile processing, focusing on the health and safety perspective of nano-textiles. The book is written by highly experienced authors in this area and provides an immensely valuable resource for scientific researchers, academics, professionals, engineers, technologists and innovators working on designing and manufacturing textile materials. The volume will be an important resource for those who are looking for innovative production technologies or the latest nanotechnology developments in the design and manufacturing of nano-textile materials. Key features: Provides a detailed theoretical overview of nano-textiles along with novel advanced techniques, methods, treatments for enhanced properties and applications of textiles. Covers relevant techniques applied on the surface of the finished textile product using plasma technology or layer-by-layer deposition techniques Introduces various nanofinishes and applications including for sports clothing, military textiles, high performance clothing or smart wearable high-tech textiles Describes wearable smart nano-textile parameters, types of materials used, applications, and future innovations for prevention of hazards and pandemic diseases Explores innovative methods and treatments for management or removal of textile waste

This book provides an overview of current issues and challenges in the fashion industry and an update on data-driven artificial intelligence (AI) techniques and their potential implementation in response to those challenges. Each chapter starts off with an example of a data-driven AI technique on a particular sector of the fashion industry (design, manufacturing, supply or retailing), before moving on to illustrate its implementation in a real-world application

This book highlights the sustainable aspects of fashion and textiles in Latin America and discusses how the manufacturing and consumption of textile products and fashion are significant sources of environmental damage. It addresses important issues of water and energy consumption in the textile and fashion industry and using case studies presents how social responsibilities in consumer behavior can help in minimizing these environmental issues for a better future.

Exclusive title focussing on various elements of combing in spinning. Includes detailed functioning of conventional and modern combers. Explains various motions in combing pertaining to diferent timings. Discusses role of modern electronics in controlling the mechanisms and offering on-line controls. Features solved examples at the end to tackle problems at shop-floor level.

This fourth volume in the series presents various sustainable approaches in the textile and fashion sector with a focus on manufacturing processes and chemicals. Sustainability is one of the important aspects in today's industrial context, which is followed by every industrial sector with no exception to textiles and fashion. Sustainability and strict adherence to the principles of sustainability has become as one of the essential needs again for any industrial sector including textiles and fashion. There are countless measures in terms of various approaches to make the textiles and fashion sector sustainable. These measures, but not limited to, ranging from innovating and implementing new fibres and raw materials, introducing innovative manufacturing methods, chemicals, processes to focus on all the possible stages of a textile product's life cycle from cradle to grave. These approaches include making the textiles and fashion sector circular and also development of new products from sustainable raw materials/processes or combination of both.

This book addresses the need for a technical guided thought on production, consumption, and waste management of plastic and polymers in the African continent. Issues such as resource availability, processing technologies, plastic policies, and much more are covered in the book. While Africa is made up of several different countries which might be different from each other in many ways, these countries within the African continent have some commonalities such as region, some shared history, resources, and some shared policies through organizations such as the African Union, African Free trade Zone, and ECOWAS. With a population of over a billion, the African continent has become an attractive market for various businesses. Several publications in recent years have pushed for the advancement of the African continent toward increased manufacturing as a road to development. This inevitably includes the plastics and other polymers industry. Careful consideration must be taken to ensure that this growth will focus on more sustainable and greener manufacturing; otherwise, this anticipated growth in the plastics and polymer industry will only spell increased pollution and worsening of the environment.

Provides comprehensive review, process and application of Elastane Fibres Covers detailed information about manufacturing and testing methods Reviews technical aspects of elastane in sportswear and healthcare Discusses evaluation process for the fabric performance Includes production methods of woven and knitted fabrics using elastane along with ecological considerations

Fashion is a glamorous industry, one of beauty, money, fame, and huge profits. However, from the inside, it is clear the industry is suffering. An industry worth $3 Billion (USD), the fashion industry is characterized by products with a short shelf-life, wrong forecasts, low profits, and ever-increasing competition. On the periphery, technology is rapidly invading the fashion industry, with emerging forms such as Artificial Intelligence, Machine Learning, Deep Learning, Artificial Neural Networks, Human-Robot Interface, making their way into this industry in recent years. AI in Fashion Industry discusses recent developments in fashion forecasting, developing a 'framework of AI-based fashion forecasting' and validates the framework with a qualitative case study of the world's first fashion intelligence company based in Bengaluru, India. This book studies the relationship between fashion and social media engagement of consumers, before moving on to create a 'conceptual framework of fashion e-forecasting.' The case study addresses the forecasting-based business problem of a family-owned fashion retail business. This book is unique, suggesting a novel method of fashion product development in the light of data-driven intelligence; documenting some of the rapid developments in the field with the onset of technology and addressing some of the fundamental questions that are becoming more relevant in recent years.

This work is a comparative study of the three "great" American wars of the twentieth century: World War I, World War II and Vietnam. The book explores several aspects of American popular culture, like fashion, film and the societal mores of each era. While a number of books have covered fashion during individual wars, this is the first study to compare several major conflicts, drawing some conclusions regarding the lasting influences of wardrobe over an entire century. This book provides short background information for each war, briefly covering earlier conflicts that shaped the hostilities of the twentieth century. Although the emphasis is on women's clothing, participation and service, men are not ignored. Their fashions not only speak to the times, but the enormity of their sacrifices.

Advances in Technical Nonwovens presents the latest information on the nonwovens industry, a dynamic and fast-growing industry with recent technological innovations that are leading to the development of novel end-use applications. The book reviews key developments in technical nonwoven manufacturing, specialist materials, and applications, with Part One covering important developments in materials and manufacturing technologies, including chapters devoted to fibers for technical nonwovens, the use of green recycled and biopolymer materials, and the application of nanofibres. The testing of nonwoven properties and the specialist area of composite nonwovens are also reviewed, with Part Two offering a detailed and wide-ranging overview of the many applications of technical nonwovens that includes chapters on automotive textiles, filtration, energy applications, geo- and agrotextiles, construction, furnishing, packaging and medical and hygiene products.

This first of this set of books presents the various sustainable approaches in terms of circular economy and micro plastic pollution pertaining to the textiles and fashion supply chain. Sustainability is one of the important aspects in today's industrial context, which is followed by every industrial sector with no exception to textiles and fashion. Sustainability and strict adherence to the principles of sustainability has become one of the essential needs in industry. There are countless measures in terms of various approaches to make the textiles and fashion sector sustainable. These measures, but not limited to, range from innovating and implementing new fibres and raw materials, introducing innovative manufacturing methods, chemicals, processes to focus on all the possible stages of a textile product's life cycle from cradle to grave. These approaches include making the textiles and fashion sector circular and also development of new products from sustainable raw materials/processes or combination of both.

This is a study of one of England's principal cloth towns during the late Middle Ages. It draws extensively upon unpublished records in Colchester and elsewhere, and is the first history of a medieval English town to analyse in conjunction the relationships between overseas trade, urban development and changes in rural society. First it describes Colchester in the earlier fourteenth century, its trade, its agricultural setting and its form of government. The book then shows how cloth-making grew in Colchester after the Black Death and how the population increased until about 1414. The implications of this for the government of the borough and for the town's role in the local economy are discussed. The last section shows that Colchester's growth was not sustained through the fifteenth century, and examines some of the causal links between economic contraction, institutional change in the borough and agrarian depression in the surrounding countryside.

This book studies the hitherto unexplored history of the shawl and silk industries of the himalyan state of Jammu and Kashmir, India. It focuses on the three processes - production, circulation, and consumption - of the textile industry of the region to highlight its socio-economic and political importance in 19th- and 20th-century Kashmir. Using the micro-history approach, it studies the sites of production - the home looms or the small karkhana - efficiency of labour, and innovations by weavers in their techniques to suit the demands of the market. It also locates the impact colonialism had on transforming the labour economy in the Kashmir textile industry. Further, it compares these karkhanas with the Scottish factories or home looms to illuminate many sites of difference and comparison between the working styles and technologies. Mapping a history as complex as the weave on the finest Kashmiri shawl, this book brings to life the interface between culture, commodity, and colonial networks. It will be of great interest to scholars and researchers of South Asian history, colonial and imperial history, cultural studies, and economic and labour history.

This volume explains cleaning of cotton after blow room treatment and individualization process in conventional card including functions related to licker-in, cylinder, and doffer, and so forth. Description of modern card includes improved cleaning at higher production rates and individualization at such higher rates. Larger part of the book is devoted to drawing of the sliver and relative description for any modern machine including on-line controls and introduction of indicator lamp system to improve both machine and labour efficiency is discussed as well. This volume also includes the related calculation for both card and draw frame. Focuses on modern carding processes, functions, and attachments. Includes chapters on defects in carding and drawn material and related calculations. Highlights the features of modern draw frame, especially the drafting system. Discusses automation and processes of modern carding machines for improving machine efficiency. Describes drafting and doubling including drafting as basic processes of spinning. This volume is aimed at senior undergraduate/Graduate students in Textile Engineering, staple fibre processing, spinning of staple fibres.

Manufacturing towards Excellence in spinning mills aims to help the relevant organization to cut costs, improve throughput, effective utilization of resources and to safeguard the interests of stakeholders. Major aspects discussed includes quality assurance, production management, maintenance management of modern machinery and laboratory equipment towards achieving manufacturing excellence with benchmarking and industry norms. Relevant case studies are provided with dedicated chapters on training and development of employees, energy management and customer focus. Explains industry norms to benchmark any spinning mill against the manufacturing performance parameters. Includes Failure Mode and Effect Analysis and Total Productive Maintenance aspects. Explores training and development standards in spinning mills. Discusses energy management and customer focus through effective techniques. Reviews SPDM, PDM Tools, Contamination index, Spin plan, Customer Satisfaction Index, Co-Creation, and HPT This book is aimed at professionals and researchers in textile engineering and management.

Natural Fiber Textile Composite Engineering sheds light on the area of the natural fiber textile composites with new research on their applications, the material used, the methods of preparation, the different types of polymers, the selection of raw materials, the elements of design the natural fiber textile polymer composites for a particular end use, their manufacturing techniques, and finally their life cycle assessments (LCA). The volume also addresses the important issue in the materials science of how to utilize natural fibers as an enhancement to composite materials. Natural fiber-reinforced polymer composites have been proven to provide a combination of superior mechanical property, dielectric property, and environmental advantages such as renewability and biodegradability. Natural fibers, some from agricultural waste products, can replace existing metallic and plastic parts and help to alleviate the environmental problem of increasing amounts of agriculture residual. The book is divided into four sections, covering: applications of natural fiber polymer composites design of natural fiber polymer composites composite manufacturing techniques and agriculture waste manufacturing composite material testing methods The first section of the book deals with the application of textile composites in the industry and the properties of the natural fibers, providing an understanding of the history of natural fiber composites as well as an analysis of the different properties of different natural fibers. The second section goes on to explain the textile composites, their classification, different composite manufacturing techniques, and the different pretreatment methods for the natural fibers to be used in composite formation. It also analyzes the composite material design under different types of loading and the mechanism of failure of the natural fiber composite. The effect of the fiber volume fraction of different textile structures is explained. The third section of the book, on composite manufacturing techniques and agriculture waste manufacturing, concerns the natural fiber composite manufacturing techniques, agricultural waste, and the methods of their preparation to be used successfully in the composite, either in the form of fibers particles or nanoparticles. The book then considers the testing methods of the different composite components as well as the final composite materials, giving the principle of the testing standards, either distractive or nondestructive. This book attempts to fill the gap between the role of the textile engineer and the role of the designer of composites from natural fibers. It provides important information on the application of textile composites for textile engineers, materials engineers, and researchers in the area of composite materials.

A large number of family businesses operate in the luxury fashion sector which shows their importance as a source of growth, development and social and economic stability. This book analyses how a strategy of innovation in terms of products and processes can offer a competitive advantage to family businesses operating in the luxury fashion sector.