Little Germany takes us back to the nineteenth century, when Bradford, West Yorkshire, was the wool capital of the world. Over the centuries, Germany and Great Britain have been close trading partners. When Bradford became renowned for its rapidly expanding textile trade, prosperous German wool merchants entered the country and many of them settled in Bradford. These men, comparatively few in number but with great determination, influenced Bradford's markets with their knowledge of commerce and philanthropic culture. They were merchants who left their mark, men who built the palatial warehouses in Little Germany. At the beginning of the Industrial Revolution and throughout the nineteenth century, cottage industries had given way to industrialisation and factories replaced traditional production. Bradford grew from a country market town into an industrial city, with smoke-blackened buildings and a polluted landscape. It was a city of great wealth against abject poverty and slums. Workers came to Bradford in their thousands, attracted by the prospect of work. German pork butchers from Hohenlohe in south Germany settled in the industrial cities of Great Britain. Their cheap and tasty 'take-away' meals were popular with factory workers, who had no time to cook due to long working hours.

Apparel manufacturing in the American South, by virtue of its size, its reliance upon female labour, and its broad geographic scope, is an important but often overlooked industry that connects the disparate concerns of women's history, southern cultural history, and labour history. In Striking Beauties, Michelle Haberland examines its essential features and the varied experiences of its workers during the industry's great expansion from the late 1930s through the demise of its southern branch at the end of the twentieth century. The popular conception of the early twentieth-century South as largely agrarian informs many histories of industry and labour in the United States. But as Haberland demonstrates, the apparel industry became a key part of the southern economy after the Great Depression and a major driver of southern industrialization. The gender and racial composition of the workforce, the growth of trade unions, technology, and capital investment were all powerful forces in apparel's migration south. Yet those same forces also revealed the tensions caused by racial and gender inequities not only in the region but in the nation at large. Striking Beauties places the struggles of working women for racial and economic justice in the larger context of southern history. The role of women as the primary consumers of the family placed them in a critical position to influence the success or failure of boycotts, union label programs and ultimately solidarity.

The textile manufacturing industry (NAICS 313) has played an important role in the history of the United States (US) and continues to be a major industrial employer, not only in the US, but also around the world. Textiles are mainly considered a component part of the supply chain, with end uses ranging from apparel to home textiles to industrial goods to medical textiles. Even though apparel is the largest end use of textiles, and its manufacture has increasingly moved offshore to low-cost labor countries, there remains a growing textile manufacturing industry in the US for capital and technological intensive products, such as non-wovens and those with military end uses. One unique aspect of textile manufacturing is that it includes sectors from agriculture, chemicals, industrial manufacturing, cutting-edge research and development in addition to the fashion aspects of apparel and home goods. It is highly dependent on economic conditions and consumer demand, and competition is primarily based on price. Another unique aspect of the textile manufacturing industry is its fragmented nature. Whereas a few major players define most industries, there are over 8,000 textile establishments in the US, and no major textile firm has more than 2% share of the market. The proposed book will include an overview of the industry and its supply chain including a brief overview of the manufacturing technologies of each sector. The book will also include an overview of the importance of the industry in US history and how the industry has changed over time including the movement to offshore manufacturing. An overview of new competitors, such as China and Mexico, will also be included. There will be a discussion of the competitive strategies that US manufacturers are using to compete with these countries. Outside market forces that impact the industry will be included as well as an overview of the regulations that impact the industry. Finally, the challenges, opportunities, and future outlook of the industry will be discussed. This section will also incorporate insight from the case study interviews to include differing perspectives.

Through the study of a regional industry, the book illustrates the impact of an expanding national market on a previously isolated market, offering new insights into a pioneer industry in the West and into the business methods and procedures of the time. The book discusses the growth of a myriad of small processing and manufacturing plants which drew raw materials from, and geared production and sales to that local economy, enjoying as they did, protection from eastern competitors who were saddled with high freight rates. The book demonstrates that once urbanization occurred in the region, bringing it into the national market, the local industries declined rapidly, disappearing in less than a generation. Perceptive, challenging, the book opens new possibilities for the study of manufacturing on the regional level.

This is the first work on British textile exports to South America during the nineteenth century. During this period, textiles ranked among the most important manufactures traded in the world market and Britain was the foremost producer. Thanks to new data, this book demonstrates that British exports to South America were transacted at very high rates during the first decades after independence. This development was due to improvements in the packing of textiles; decreasing costs of production and introduction of free trade in Britain; falling ocean freight rates, marine insurance and import duties in South America; dramatic improvements in communications; and the introduction of better port facilities. Manuel Llorca-Jana explores the marketing chain of textile exports to South America and sheds light on South Americans' consumer behaviour. This book contains the most comprehensive database on Anglo-South American trade during the nineteenth century and fills an important gap in the historiography.

Like cotton, indigo has defied its humble origins. Left alone it might have been a regional plant with minimal reach, a localized way of dyeing textiles, paper, and other goods with a bit of blue. But when blue became the most popular color for the textiles that Britain turned out in large quantities in the eighteenth century, the South Carolina indigo that colored most of this cloth became a major component in transatlantic commodity chains. In "Red, White, and Black Make Blue," Andrea Feeser tells the stories of all the peoples who made indigo a key part of the colonial South Carolina experience as she explores indigo's relationships to land use, slave labor, textile production and use, sartorial expression, and fortune building.
In the eighteenth century, indigo played a central role in the development of South Carolina. The popularity of the color blue among the upper and lower classes ensured a high demand for indigo, and the climate in the region proved sound for its cultivation. Cheap labor by slaves--both black and Native American--made commoditization of indigo possible. And due to land grabs by colonists from the enslaved or expelled indigenous peoples, the expansion into the backcountry made plenty of land available on which to cultivate the crop. Feeser recounts specific histories--uncovered for the first time during her research--of how the Native Americans and African slaves made the success of indigo in South Carolina possible. She also emphasizes the material culture around particular objects, including maps, prints, paintings, and clothing. "Red, White, and Black Make Blue" is a fraught and compelling history of both exploitation and empowerment, revealing the legacy of a modest plant with an outsized impact.

"A very realistic and readable ethnography."--Susan Schaefer Davis, author of "Adolescence in a Moroccan Town" "Offers a portrait of the lives of Moroccan women working in factories. With sensitivity and great honesty, Cairoli evokes the struggles women face as they enter an exploitative labor force and challenge cultural norms. A poignant and devastating portrayal of the underside of globalization."--Rachel Newcomb, author of "Women of Fes: Ambiguities of Urban Life in Morocco" In Morocco today, the idea of female laborers is generally frowned upon. Yet despite this, many women are beginning to find work in factories. Laetitia Cairoli spent a year in the ancient city of Fes; "Girls of the Factory" tells the story of what life is like for working women. Forced to find a factory job herself so that she could speak more intimately with working women, she was able to learn firsthand why they work, what working means to them, and how important earning a wage is to their sense of self. Cairoli conveys a general sense of the working life of women in Morocco by describing daily life inside a Moroccan sewing factory. She also reveals the additional work they face inside their homes. More than an ethnography, this volume is also for those who want to better understand what life is like for a new generation of young women just entering the workforce. M. Laetitia Cairoli is adjunct professor of anthropology at Montclair State University.

This work is a comparative study of the three "great" American wars of the twentieth century: World War I, World War II and Vietnam. The book explores several aspects of American popular culture, like fashion, film and the societal mores of each era. While a number of books have covered fashion during individual wars, this is the first study to compare several major conflicts, drawing some conclusions regarding the lasting influences of wardrobe over an entire century. This book provides short background information for each war, briefly covering earlier conflicts that shaped the hostilities of the twentieth century. Although the emphasis is on women's clothing, participation and service, men are not ignored. Their fashions not only speak to the times, but the enormity of their sacrifices.

Sugar is among the most traded commodities with exports accounting for over one quarter of global production. In this book, the authors discuss the global sugar market; the application of nano-and ultrafiltration in the sugar industry, and sugar utilisation by fungi providing leads for fungal metabolic engineering in crude plant substrates in industrial applications. Additionally, this book discusses cotton crops, the most popularly used textile fibre in the world. The average production of cotton fibre in the world is around 25 million metric tons per year. Additionally, the authors examine cotton fibre grading and classification methods which play pivotal roles in the pricing and marketing of cotton fibres; a look at how the cotton plant responds to different stresses in the breeding of more tolerant crops; and the planting status of cotton world-wide, among others.

Due to their complexity and diversity, understanding the structure of textile fibers is of key importance. This authoritative collection provides a comprehensive review of the structure of an extensive range of textile fibers.
After an introductory set of chapters on fiber structure and methods to characterize fibers, the book is classified into three main fiber groups. The second part of the book includes chapters that review the structure of natural cellulosic and protein fibers, including cotton, silk, and wool. Part three covers the structure of manufactured polymer fibers, for example polyester, polyamides, elastomeric fibers, and high-modulus, high-tenacity polymer fibers. The concluding part of the book discusses the structure of a variety of other textile fibers such as glass, carbon and optical fibers.
Edited by leading authorities on the subject and with a team of international authors, the Handbook of Textile Fiber Structure is an essential reference for textile technologists, fiber scientists, textile engineers, and those in academia.

This book covers the following themes and cross-cutting research and development activities: Agronomy, economics and market trends for the production of natural fibres; Synthetic and natural fibres, their properties, processing and applications; Properties, performance and primary processing of natural fibres; Textile and clothing production processes and properties; Nanotechnology applications in fibres, textiles and clothing; Comfort and health related applications of textiles; World trade and marketing of fibres, textiles and clothing; Modern and innovative textile processing techniques and technologies.

This book provides a granular diagnostic of Bangladesh's logistics system, its demand and associated costs, and the actions needed to improve its performance. It provides insights on chokepoints and makes a case for a comprehensive yet strategic approach to addressing them.

"No other book compares...This is the book students reference during their four years at university." - Tara Konya, Southern New Hampshire University, USA Learn how fashion lines are designed, manufactured, marketed, and distributed. The book covers the full supply chain - from textiles to fashion brand production - as well as supply chain management, and competitive strategies, so that you can be successful in your future career. Topics covered include sustainable design for a circular economy, 3-D printing, fashion entrepreneurship, disruptions in fashion calendars, supply chain transparency, impact of social media, growth and evolution of online retailing, expanded omnichannel strategies, and changes in international trade, among others. Case studies, a Career Glossary, and key terms help you connect concepts to practice. New to this Edition * Content addresses knowledge and skill guidelines in the Association to Advance Collegiate Schools of Business (AACSB) and Textile and Apparel Program Accreditation Commission (TAPAC) accreditation standards * Expanded discussions of sustainability, corporate social responsibility, and technology across the supply chains for fashion products * Updated and expanded industry examples and case studies, emphasizing fashion brand companies from around the world * A new Careers Glossary listing job titles and descriptions found throughout the fashion industry The Business of Fashion STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

This book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.

Oh, Men, with Sisters dear! Oh, Men, with Mothers and Wives! It is not linen you re wearing out, But human creatures lives! Stitch stitch stitch, In poverty, hunger and dirt, Sewing at once, with a double thread, A Shroud as well as a Shirt. --from The Song of the Shirt by Thomas Hood (1843) Labour in Bangladesh flows like its rivers -- in excess of what is required. Often, both take a huge toll. Labour that costs $1.66 an hour in China and 52 cents in India can be had for a song in Bangladesh -- 18 cents. It is mostly women and children working in fragile, flammable buildings who bring in 70 per cent of the country s foreign exchange. Bangladesh today does not clothe the nakedness of the world, but provides it with limitless cheap garments -- through Primark, Walmart, Benetton, Gap. In elegiac prose, Jeremy Seabrook dwells upon the disproportionate sacrifices demanded by the manufacture of such throwaway items as baseball caps. He shows us how Bengal and Lancashire offer mirror images of impoverishment and affluence. In the eighteenth century, the people of Bengal were dispossessed of ancient skills and the workers of Lancashire forced into labour settlements.In a ghostly replay of traffic in the other direction, the decline of the British textile industry coincided with Bangladesh becoming one of the world s major clothing exporters. With capital becoming more protean than ever, it wouldn t be long before the global imperium readies to shift its sites of exploitation in its nomadic cultivation of profit.

During the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries large numbers of Scots emigrated to seek their fortunes abroad. Better educated than the English and with a strong Presbyterian ethic, they were unusually successful in business and politics. This was true for New Zealand as elsewhere. Ross & Glendining Ltd was founded in Dunedin in 1862, during the gold rush, by two contrasting characters: Caithness-born John Ross and Robert Glendining, from Dumfries. Initially a drapery importing business, it opened branches throughout New Zealand and warehouses in all the main centers. Careful management and efficient systems enabled the business to grow, despite strong competition from Australia. After the investment boom of the seventies, R&G began to diversify, investing in sheep runs, a woollen mill, other manufacturing, and even a coal mine. This history offers not only a portrait of a firm but a window on the development of the New Zealand economy and the emergence of a manufacturing sector.

The eighth edition of this industry standard for textile terminology is fully revised and expanded featuring approximately 100 new entries and over 14,000 definitions of fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Trademark information has been thoroughly updated to reflect the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office's Trademark Electronic Search System (TESS), and current definitions from the industry associations American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists and American Society for Testing and Materials are included. Fully illustrated with over 400 photographs and line drawings, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses. An extensive appendix provides a list of national and internationalindustry associations and organizations. From Abaca to Zyex, The Fairchild Books Dictionary of Textiles contains essential reference information for professionals and scholars involved in the textile industry.

Women's emancipation through productive labour was a key tenet of socialist politics in post-World War II Yugoslavia. Mass industrialisation under Tito led many young women to join traditionally 'feminised' sectors, and as a consequence the textile sector grew rapidly, fast becoming a gendered symbol of industrialisation, consumption and socialist modernity. By the 1980s Yugoslavia was one of the world's leading producers of textiles and garments. The break-up of Yugoslavia in 1991, however, resulted in factory closures, bankruptcy and layoffs, forcing thousands of garment industry workers into precarious and often exploitative private-sector jobs. Drawing on more than 60 oral history interviews with former and current garment workers, as well as workplace periodicals and contemporary press material collected across Croatia, Macedonia, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina and Slovenia, Women and Industry in the Balkans charts the rise and fall of the Yugoslav textile sector, as well as the implications of this post-socialist transition, for the first time. In the process, the book explores broader questions about memories of socialism, lingering feelings of attachment to the socialist welfare system and the complexity of the post-socialist era. This is important reading for all scholars working on the history and politics of Yugoslavia and the Balkans, oral history, memory studies and gender studies.

Archaeologists and textile historians bring together 16 papers to investigate the production, trade and consumption of textiles in Scandinavia and across parts of northern and Mediterranean Europe throughout the medieval period. Archaeological evidence is used to demonstrate the existence or otherwise of international trade and to examine the physical characteristics of textiles and their distribution in order to understand who was producing, using and trading them and what they were being used for. Historical evidence, mainly textual, is employed to link textile names to places, numbers and prices and thus provide an appreciation of changing economics, patterns of distribution and the organisation of trade. Different types and qualities of cloths are discussed and the social implications of their production and import/export considered against a developing background of urbanism and increasing commercial wealth.

This user-friendly guide to evaluating apparel quality presents the roles of product designers, manufacturers, merchandisers, testing laboratories, and retailers from product inception through the sale of goods, to ensure quality products that meet customer expectations. Bubonia provides an overview of apparel production, with emphasis on quality characteristics and cues, consumer influences and motivations impacting purchasing decisions, and the relationship of apparel manufacturing and production processes, cost, price point and the quality level of an apparel product. A key aspect of the book is the focus on both U.S. and International standards and regulations required for apparel analysis, performance, labeling requirements and safety regulations. The text is highly illustrated with images of stitch and seam types plus photos of their uses in actual garments, providing students with the tools needed to skillfully evaluate and critique quality elements in apparel and textile products. Key Features ~ Supplementary Apparel Quality Lab Manual (sold separately) includes hands-on lab activities and projects that simulate real-world garment analysis and material testing ~ Industry Scenario boxes present case studies highlight real world situations such as the Lululemon recall and the environmental impact of apparel manufacturing ~ Provides an illustrated guide to ASTM stitch and seam types Teaching Resources ~ Instructor's Guide with Test Bank ~ PowerPoint presentations for each chapter

This seminal text demystifies all the terminology around working with textiles today, providing definitions of processes, techniques, features, and even some historical terms that you need to know. The dictionary now includes coverage of sustainability, smart materials and biobased textiles, intelligent and 3D manufacturing, new technologies, and processes. Entries cover everything from fibers, fabrics, laws and regulations affecting textile materials and processing, inventors of textile technology, and business and trade terms relevant to textiles. Highly illustrated with over 400 images, entries include pronunciation, derivation, definition, and uses.