Automation is the use of various control systems for operating equipment such as machinery and processes. In line, this book deals with comprehensive analysis of the trends and technologies in automation and control systems used in textile engineering. The control systems descript in all chapters is to dissect the important components of an integrated control system in spinning, weaving, knitting, chemical processing and garment industries, and then to determine if and how the components are converging to provide manageable and reliable systems throughout the chain from fiber to the ultimate customer. Key Features: * Describes the design features of machinery for operating various textile machineries in product manufacturing * Covers the fundamentals of the instrumentation and control engineering used in textile machineries * Illustrates sensors and basic elements for textile automation * Highlights the need of robotics in textile engineering * Reviews the overall idea and scope of research in designing textile machineries

Since time immemorial Indian textiles, especially textiles from Bengal, were in great demand and exported to different parts of the world. Textiles from Bengal were appreciated by the Romans as early as first century ad. Numerous foreign travellers including Chinese, Portuguese, Arab and Persian, have mentioned the delicacy and beauty of Bengal textiles. From the mid-seventeenth century, there was a massive spurt in demand of cloth manufactured in Bengal, but after the British conquest of Bengal in 1757 this industry started to decline. This monograph traces the journey of Bengal textiles till its decline. Among the topics covered include accounts of the admiration for Bengal textiles from far and wide, the different types of textiles that were manufactured in Bengal, the major exporters, the major centres of production, the production system, the Dhaka muslin and the silk industry in Bengal, the procuring system that was adopted by the European / Asian merchants, the condition of the artisans who were the chief pillars of the textile industry and lastly the reasons behind the decline of the Bengal textile industry. This is the first comprehensive volume on Bengal textile industry. It is the outcome of the author's four and a half decades of work on various aspects of Indian Ocean trade, the activities of the European companies and their impact on Indian / Bengal's economy. Please note: This title is co-published with Manohar Publishers, New Delhi. Taylor & Francis does not sell or distribute the Hardback in India, Pakistan, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka

D_Tex is proposed as a hub around which it is possible to look at textiles in their different forms, in order to better understand, study, adapt and project them for the future. It is intended to build a flow of ideas and concepts so that participants can arrive at new ideas and concepts and work them in their own way, adapting them to their objectives and research. D_Tex is intended as a space for sharing and building knowledge around textile material in order to propose new understandings and explorations. Present in all areas of knowledge, the textile material bets on renewed social readings and its evolutions to constantly reinvent itself and enable innovative cultural and aesthetic dimensions and unexpected applications to solve questions and promote new knowledge. D_Tex proposes to promote discussion and knowledge in the different areas where textiles, with all their characteristics, can ensure an important contribution, combining material and immaterial knowledge, innovative and traditional techniques, technological and innovative materials and methods, but also new organization and service models, different concepts and views on teaching. With the renewed idea of the intrinsic interdisciplinarity of design and sharing with different areas that support each other, the research and practice of textiles was proposed by the D_TEX Textile Design Conference 2019, held June 19-21, 2019 at the Lisbon School of Architecture of the University of Lisbon, Portugal under the theme "In Touch" where, as broadly understood as possible, different areas of textiles were regarded as needing to keep in touch with each other and end users in order to promote and share the best they can offer for the welfare of their users and consumers.

This book comprehensively reviews, as well as analyzes, various aspects related to the Indian textile and apparel industries. While the focus is on economic and environmental issues, the discussion covers a lot of policy elements. The approach is inter-disciplinary, with concepts drawn from economics, environmental science, history, chemistry, textile technology and quantitative methods/optimization literature. This book will appeal to several stakeholders such as, policy researchers, policy-makers in governmental and international agencies, academicians and students from all the disciplines mentioned above, industrialists, managers and consultants working on Indian textile and apparel sectors. It might also provoke interest among as well as agriculturalists, farm policy analysts and industrialists focusing on other products such as chemicals, plastics, machineries, etc., who are wholly or partly dependent on textile and apparel industry in India.

This book presents a systematic study on methods used for the creation of weave patterns for simple structures. Firstly, it explains known techniques for designing new weave patterns classified as patterns merge, motifs, patterns insertion and change of the displacement number. These are discussed as possibilities to create different textures and weaving effects supported by figures of patterns, colour view, and fabric appearance simulation. Secondly, it explains original methods for design of new weave patterns based on Boolean operations, musical scores, written texts and braille alphabet, including transformations performed, advantages/disadvantages, possible applications and designs.

Silk! Just the word invokes intrigue and fantasies of lavish mounds of richly hued fabrics. The journey of metamorphosis from caterpillar to silken luxury is miraculous. Textile artist Karen Selk delves into the amazing world of wild silk and the Indigenous people of India who raise the wild silkworms. You'll be drawn into the captivating world of a unique living culture that has been engaged in a sustainable industry for generations. Photos and anecdotes captured from weavers, spinners, and silkworm farmers transport you into their homes and villages to get an up-close look at the intimate connection to the skill, dedication, and specialized tools and techniques the artisans use to transform cocoons into yarn and luxurious fabrics. This little-known industry not only provides us with resplendent cloth but improves our environment and provides a sustainable income, allowing families and communities to stay together while preserving a way of life.

This handbook is a compilation of comprehensive reference sources that provide state-of-the-art findings on both theoretical and applied research on sustainable fashion supply chain management. It contains three parts, organized under the headings of "Reviews and Discussions," "Analytical Research," and "Empirical Research," featuring peer-reviewed papers contributed by researchers from Asia, Europe, and the US. This book is the first to focus on sustainable supply chain management in the fashion industry and is therefore a pioneering text on this topic. In the fashion industry, disposable fashion under the fast fashion concept has become a trend. In this trend, fashion supply chains must be highly responsive to market changes and able to produce fashion products in very small quantities to satisfy changing consumer needs. As a result, new styles will appear in the market within a very short time and fashion brands such as Zara can reduce the whole process cycle from conceptual design to a final ready-to-sell "well-produced and packaged" product on the retail sales floor within a few weeks. From the supply chain's perspective, the fast fashion concept helps to match supply and demand and lowers inventory. Moreover, since many fast fashion companies, e.g., Zara, H&M, and Topshop, adopt a local sourcing approach and obtain supply from local manufacturers (to cut lead time), the corresponding carbon footprint is much reduced. Thus, this local sourcing scheme under fast fashion would enhance the level of environmental friendliness compared with the more traditional offshore sourcing. Furthermore, since the fashion supply chain is notorious for generating high volumes of pollutants, involving hazardous materials in the production processes, and producing products by companies with low social responsibility, new management principles and theories, especially those that take into account consumer behaviours and preferences, need to be developed to address many of these issues in order to achieve the goal of sustainable fashion supply chain management. The topics covered include Reverse Logistics of US Carpet Recycling; Green Brand Strategies in the Fashion Industry; Impacts of Social Media on Consumers' Disposals of Apparel; Fashion Supply Chain Network Competition with Eco-labelling; Reverse Logistics as a Sustainable Supply Chain Practice for the Fashion Industry; Apparel Manufacturers' Path to World-class Corporate Social Responsibility; Sustainable Supply Chain Management in the Slow-Fashion Industry; Mass Market Second-hand Clothing Retail Operations in Hong Kong; Constraints and Drivers of Growth in the Ethical Fashion Sector: The case of France; and Effects of Used Garment Collection Programmes in Fast Fashion Brands.

The aim of this book is to track the historical origins of China's economic reforms. From the 1920s and 1930s strong ties were built between Chinese textile industrialists and foreign machinery importers in Shanghai and the Yangzi Delta. Despite the fragmentation of China, the contribution of these networks to the modernization of the country was important and longstanding. Facing the challenge of growing in a fragmented country, Chinese textile firms such as Dafeng, Dacheng and Lixin focused on urban markets and also on importing technology for upgrading their production. When the war against Japan blocked trade routes inside China, these networks were concentrated in Shanghai where they envisaged an export-oriented development strategy for China that was based on importing machinery and exporting manufactured products. However, this strategy was only implemented precariously in Shanghai, while the city stood as a neutral space in the first years of the Japanese occupation, but was only consolidated in Hong Kong in the late 1940s, where textile industrialist and most of the foreign importers migrated. These networks were thus reestablished in Hong Kong, where they contributed to the city's industrialization in the Cold War period. Meanwhile, the Chinese industrialists that stayed in Shanghai and the Yangzi Delta had to adapt to the Maoist regime and were progressively incorporated into the state-owned companies or the local government agencies such as the United Front or the Textile bureaus. However, from the early 1970s, the links between Hong Kong and Shanghai were reactivated and these networks played, again, a key role in the modernization of China, especially regarding the imports of technology and exports of manufactured goods. The book ends with the first joint-ventures between Hong Kong businessmen and Chinese local administrations that took place in the beginnings of China's economic reforms in 1979.

In the later 19th century, French-Canadian Roman Catholic immigrants from Quebec were deemed a threat to the United States, potential terrorists in service of the Pope. Books and newspapers floated the conspiracy theory that the immigrants seeking work in New England's burgeoning textile industry were actually plotting to annex parts of the United States to a newly independent Quebec. Vermette's groundbreaking study sets this neglected and poignant tale in the broader context of North American history. He traces individuals and families, from the textile barons who created a new industry to the poor farmers and laborers of Quebec who crowded into the mills in the post-Civil War period. Vermette discusses the murky reception these cross-border immigrants met in the USA, including dehumanizing conditions in mill towns and early-20th-century campaigns led by the Ku Klux Klan and the Eugenics movement. Vermette also discusses what occurred when the textile industry moved to the Deep South and brings the story of emigrants up to the present day. Vermette shows how this little-known episode in U.S. history prefigures events as recent as yesterday's news. His well documented narrative touches on the issues of cross-border immigration; the Nativists fear of the Other; the rise and fall of manufacturing in the U.S.; and the construction of race and ethnicity.

The manufacturing and distribution of textiles and apparel products is a truly global industry, making it crucial to understand current political, social, and economic developments within the international marketplace. Going Global offers a comprehensive framework and approach to understanding the global textile and apparel industries, trade, and markets. This framework is used to holistically examine the global sourcing of textiles and apparel in the context of supply chain sustainability, while exploring the roles and specializations of world regions and selected countries that are major players in the textile and apparel marketplace. New to this Edition: -Comprehensive updates to country profiles and their specializations -Brand new Industry Profile feature with interviews from sourcing industry professionals -New and updated case studies help readers apply concepts to real-world scenarios Instructor Resources -The Instructor's Guide provide suggestions for planning the course and using the text in the classroom, supplemental assignments, and lecture notes -Test Bank includes sample test questions for each chapter -PowerPoint® presentations include color images from the book and provide a framework for lecture and discussion Going Global STUDIO -Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips -Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

The book mainly uses the New Institutional Economics Approach (NIE) to examine the formation and development of industrial clusters in China through multiple case studies of textile and clothing clusters in the Zhejiang province. The micro case studies illustrate the interaction between institutional change and the industrial development of China in transition.

It also attempts to fill the information gap through an analysis of the typical institutional factors leading to the development and upgrading of industrial clusters, and provides a better understanding of the changing nature of the public-private interface in the process of cluster development in China.

The cross-cultural usage of a particular cloth type - blueprint - is central to South African cultural history. Known locally as seshoeshoe or isishweshwe, among many other localised names, South African blueprint originated in the Far East and East Asia. Adapted and absorbed by the West, blueprint in Africa was originally associated with trade, coercion, colonisation, Westernisation, religious conversion and even slavery, but residing within its hues and patterns was a resonance that endured. The cloth came to reflect histories of hardship, courage and survival, but it also conveyed the taste and aesthetic predilections of its users, preferences often shared across racial and cultural divides. In its indigenization, isishweshwe has subverted its former history and alien origins and has come to reflect the authority of its users and their culture, conveying resilience, innovation and adaptation and above all a distinctive South Africanness. In this beautifully illustrated book Juliette Leeb-du Toit traces the origins of the cloth, its early usage and cultural adaptations, and its emerging regional, cultural and aesthetic significance. In examining its usage and current national significance, she highlights some of the salient features associated with histories of indigenisation.

An evolution is currently underway in the textile industry and Textile for Industrial Applications is the guidebook for its growth. This industry can be classified into three categories-clothing, home textile, and industrial textile. Industrial textiles, also known as technical textiles, are a part of the industry that is thriving and showing great promise. Unlike conventional textiles traditionally used for clothing or furnishing by consumers, industrial textiles are used for manufacturing and functionality purposes, and generally by other industries. This book provides an encyclopedic review of industrial textiles, covering all of the latest trends in the development and application of these textiles with advice and suggestions on how to apply them in other industries. Discusses the latest technologies adopted in the industrial textile industry including nano finishing and plasma applications Covers the basic fundamentals about product characteristics and production techniques Caters to students and faculty involved in textile technology, composite technology, and other interdisciplinary courses as it relates to product engineering and product development Textiles for Industrial Applications details the market potential and growth of industrial textiles and explains the steps involved in the product development of industrial textiles. It discusses property requirement, the basic textile manufacturing process, manufacturing techniques and fibers used, as well as application methods. The book highlights recent developments in terms of raw material usage, manufacturing technology, and value-added finishes in this sector. A separate chapter focuses on the testing procedures of various industrial textiles.

The clothing industry provides employment for 60 million workers worldwide. More than a quarter of these workers are employed in the Asia-Pacific region, where the industry is based on subcontracted production on behalf of international buyers. Rapid movements of manufacturing activity from country to country in search of cost advantages make clothing workers part of a globalizing labour market where they increasingly suffer from job insecurity. This book presents carefully researched case studies which highlight the ways in which labour is informalized, fragmented and made disposable by the globalization of production. Chapters address issues pertaining to rights and citizenship, and new forms of activism and organization in conjunction and coordination with diverse support groups, consumers, and wider global campaigns. Contributors further examine the role of the nation state, government regulatory bodies, as well as independent monitoring systems such as the International Labour Organization. Although there has been considerable effort directed to understanding how firms operate across multiple countries - in studies of the organization of global production networks, and the implications for complexities of scale, (de)territorialization and state development projects - there has been far less focus on how these processes produce precarious labour and reshape worker consciousness. Offering new insights into the understanding and support of workers in the global textile and garment industry, this book will be of interest to academics in a variety of disciplines including Asian Studies, sociology, political economy, development, human rights, labour and gender.

This is a study of one of England's principal cloth towns during the late Middle Ages. It draws extensively upon unpublished records in Colchester and elsewhere, and is the first history of a medieval English town to analyse in conjunction the relationships between overseas trade, urban development and changes in rural society. First it describes Colchester in the earlier fourteenth century, its trade, its agricultural setting and its form of government. The book then shows how cloth-making grew in Colchester after the Black Death and how the population increased until about 1414. The implications of this for the government of the borough and for the town's role in the local economy are discussed. The last section shows that Colchester's growth was not sustained through the fifteenth century, and examines some of the causal links between economic contraction, institutional change in the borough and agrarian depression in the surrounding countryside.

Consumers spend approximately $93 billion on denim products every year. This consumption comes at a great cost, with thousands of litres of fresh water, hazardous chemicals and energy contributing to just one pair of jeans, leaving the environment and the industry vulnerable to pollution and climate change. Using facts, figures, case studies and anecdotes, this book investigates why the industry has been so slow to adopt green technologies and offers practical solutions to designers and fashion executives who want to switch to cleaner manufacturing, including those working in the 'fast fashion' sector. It also offers advice to the eco-conscious consumer who wants to purchase denim more sustainably. Considering the full lifecycle of a pair of jeans from the cotton crop to disposal, it presents examples of how to go green at different stages. This book will be of great interest to fashion students and researchers, as well as designers, fashion executives, policy-makers and anyone who comes into contact with the world of denim.

Recent Advances in Decolorization and Degradation of Dyes in Textile Effluent by Biological Approaches outlines various eco-friendly, cost effective methods for removal of toxic textile dyes. Large amounts of dye are unbound and released into the environment due to inefficient dyeing processes. The release of wastewater containing dye into the environment has several adverse effects as it is toxic, mutagenic and has other undesirable effects on living organisms. Hence, it is necessary to remove these dyes from industrial effluents to have a sustainable environment. This book deals with conventional as well as advanced effective treatment methods for the removal of dyes in order to increase the domain knowledge of readers. Salient features: Describes physico-chemical characteristics of textile effluent, dye classes and toxicity of dyes commonly used in the textile industry Assembles effective approaches which are used to remove dyes from textile effluent prior to their release into the environment Presents several advanced approaches such as genetic engineering, nanotechnology, immobilized cells or enzymes, biofilms and microbial fuel cells, etc. for the removal of dyes.

When the future of his family's rope business in Liverpool was threatened at the end of the 1920s Eric Rigby-Jones had to leave his wife and young family behind to risk everything on establishing a new factory in the Irish Free State. He was still an officer in the Territorial Army when he leased a former British cavalry barracks in co. Kildare from the Irish government in 1933. It had lain derelict since the departure of British troops in 1922. Within four years his company, Irish Ropes, was supplying nearly all of Ireland's rope. When war came in 1939 Ireland remained staunchly neutral and faced both German invasion and a British trade embargo. With the government determined to make the country self-sufficient Eric had to resort to increasingly desperate measures to ensure that Irish farmers never ran out of twine to gather the harvest. Tintawn and Binder Twine is the untold story of the foundation and eventual demise of an iconic Irish business, known around the world for its Red Setter twine and Tintawn sisal carpets; of the pioneering Englishman who founded it and introduced new concepts in industrial relations to Ireland; of a family separated in peace and war; and of the regeneration of an Irish town. It is also the story of sisal, the vegetable fibre that became the mainstay of East Africa's colonial economy, and of the first fifty years of an independent Irish state. A member of Eric's wider family, Thomas Jones, was secretary to the British delegation that negotiated the Anglo-Irish treaty in 1921 and his son, Michael, was killed in the Staines air disaster in 1972 while travelling to Brussels with an Irish delegation for talks about the country's imminent membership of the European Union. Well-illustrated and drawing heavily on unpublished family letters, documents, and photographs as well as new research in British and Irish archives, the book reveals intriguing but little-known sides to Anglo-Irish relations during the Second World War. It has particular relevance in today's world of Brexit, borders, tariffs, and the bullying of small nations by large.

Cotton made the fortune of the Fuda family, Egyptian landed gentry with peasant origins, during the second part of the nineteenth century. This story, narrated and photographed by a family member who has researched and documented various aspects of her own history, goes well beyond the family photo album to become an attempt to convey how cotton, as the main catalyst and creator of wealth, produced by the beginning of the twentieth century two entirely separate worlds: one privileged and free, the other surviving at a level of bare subsistence, and indentured.
The construction of lavish mansions in the Nile Delta countryside and the landowners' adoption of European lifestyles are juxtaposed visually with the former laborers' camp of the permanent workers, which became a village ('Izba), and then an urbanized settlement. The story is retold from the perspective of both the landowners and the former workers who were tied to the 'Izba. The book includes family photo albums, photographs of political campaigns and of banquets in the countryside, documents and accounting books, modern portraits of the peasants, and pictures of daily life in the village today.
This is a story that fuses the personal and emotional with the scholar's detached ethnographic reporting-a truly fascinating, informative, and colorful view of life on both sides of a uniquely Egyptian socio-economic institution, and a vanished world: the cotton estate.

** A RADIO 4 BOOK OF THE WEEK ** 'Fascinating . . . The history of the world through the eye of a needle . . . I recommend this book to anyone' THE SPECTATOR 'A charming, absorbing and history that takes us on a journey from the silk roads to sportswear, from ruffs to spacesuits . . . I devoured this quietly feminist book' SUNDAY TIMES 'Joyful and beautiful' NATURE 'Will make you rethink your relationship with fabric' ELLE DECORATION All textiles begin with a twist. From colourful 30,000-year old threads found on the floor of a Georgian cave to what the linen wrappings of Tutankhamun's mummy actually meant; from the Silk Roads to the woollen sails that helped the Vikings reach America 700 years before Columbus; from the lace ruffs that infuriated the puritans to the Indian calicoes and chintzes that powered the Industrial Revolution, our continuing reinvention of cloth tells fascinating stories of human ingenuity. When we talk of lives hanging by a thread, being interwoven, or part of the social fabric, we are part of a tradition that stretches back many thousands of years. Fabric has allowed us to achieve extraordinary things and survive in unlikely places, and this book shows you how -- and why. With a cast that includes Chinese empresses, Richard the Lionheart and Bing Crosby, Kassia St Clair takes us on the run with escaped slaves, climbing the slopes of Everest and moonwalking with astronauts. Running like a bright line through history, The Golden Thread offers an unforgettable adventure through our past, present and future.

How Are Textile Fabrics Formed? Principles of Fabric Formation is a treatise on the modern production systems of woven, knitted, braided, nonwoven, triaxial, multiaxial, and 3D fabrics. This book offers a basic understanding of the technicalities involved in the formation of different types of textile fabrics, and brings out the relative merits and limitations of each production process in one single volume. Gain Insight into the World of Textile Fabrics Providing readers with an appreciation of the technicalities involved in the formation of different types of textile fabrics, the author describes all major fabric formation methods, and explains each stage of formation in the text. He also addresses all major topics related to the formation of different classes of textile fabrics, including yarn winding, warping, yarn sizing, woven fabric construction, weaving, weft knitting, warp knitting, braiding, nonwovens, and triaxial, multiaxial and 3D fabrics. Comprised of 16 chapters, this multifaceted work: Provides a technical description of fabric formation systems Focuses on the diverse technicalities involved in each and every stage of formation Contains a comprehensive compilation of the major principles involved Principles of Fabric Formation is an exclusive junior/senior undergraduate-level textbook with a focus on the diverse technical principles involved in production of the entire gamut of textile fabrics.

This book explores the mechanics of rotor spinning machines. It discusses the open-end spinning machine rotor's vibrations and bearings as well as the kinematics of the rotor's drive as individual drive or central drive, both as a reducing drive and multiplying drive. It examines explanations for the rotor's power requirements through different techniques such as Shirley institute (UK) and Zurich Federal Institute. It also covers power distribution inside the machine, different mechanisms of the machine, and air flow inside the spinning machine.

Fibres to Smart Textiles: Advances in Manufacturing, Technologies, and Applications offers comprehensive coverage of the fundamentals and advances in the textile and clothing manufacturing sectors. It describes the basics of fibres, yarns, and fabrics and their end use in the latest developments and applications in the field and addresses environmental impacts from textile processes and how to minimize them. This book serves as a single comprehensive source discussing textile fibres, yarn formation, filament formation techniques, woven fabric formation, knitting technologies, nonwoven manufacturing technologies, braiding technologies, and dyeing, printing, and finishing processes. Testing of textile materials, environmental impacts of textile processes and use of CAD and CAM in designing textile products are also included. The book also discusses applications including textile composites and biocomposites, technical textiles, smart textiles, and nanotextiles. With chapters authored by textile experts, this practical book offers guidance to professionals in textile and clothing manufacturing and shows how to avoid potential pitfalls in product development.

'This riveting behind-the-scenes story of the clothes on our backs is a must-read for clotheshorses everywhere' Harper's Bazaar 'Extraordinary . . . fascinating . . . a wonderful way into history, quite often through the voices of people who don't have a say in history' Cerys Matthews Linen, Cotton, Silk, Synthetics, Wool: through the stories of these five fabrics, Sofi Thanhauser illuminates the world we inhabit in a startling new way, travelling from China to Cumbria to reveal the craft, labour and industry that create the clothes we wear. From the women who transformed stalks of flax into linen to clothe their families in nineteenth century New England to those who earn their dowries in the cotton-spinning factories of South India today, this book traces the origins of garment-making through time and around the world. Exploring the social, economic and environmental impact of our most personal possessions, Worn looks beyond care labels to show how clothes reveal the truth about what we really care about. 'A must-read . . . combines remarkable research with heartfelt care' Clare Hunter

Fashion studies is a burgeoning field that often highlights the contributions of genius designers and high-profile brands with little reference to what goes on behind the scenes in the supply chain. This book pulls back the curtain on the global fashion system of the past 200 years to examine the relationship between the textile mills of Yorkshire - the firms that provided the entire Western world with warm wool fabrics - and their customers. It is a microhistory of a single firm, Abraham Moon and Sons Ltd, that sheds light on important macro questions about British industry, government policies on international trade, the role of multi-generational family firms and the place of design and innovation in business strategy. It is the first book to connect Yorkshire tweeds to the fashion system. Written in lively, accessible prose, this book will appeal to anyone who works in fashion or who wears fashion. There is nothing like it - and it will raise the bar for historical studies of global fashion. Here you'll find intriguing stories about a tweed theft from the Leeds Coloured Cloth Hall, debates on tariffs and global trade, the battle against synthetic fibres and the reinvention of British tweeds around heritage marketing. You won't be bored. -- .