Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and
coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand
erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent
governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations
of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been
derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The
reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary
interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been
developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then
been derived from the surface elevation information by various
theories. However. the different theories for the calculation of
water particle velocities and acceleration have turned out to give
significant differences in the calculated responses of structures.
In recent years new measurement techniques have made it possible to
make accurate velocity measurements. Hence. the editors deemed it
to be useful to bring together a group of experts working actively
as researchers in the field of water wave kinematics. These experts
included theoreticians as well as experimentalists on wave
kinematics. It was also deemed useful to include experts on the
response of structures to have their views from a structural
engineering point of view on what information is really needed on
water wave kinematics.
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