A James Beard Award-winning writer captures life under the Red
socialist banner in this wildly inventive, tragicomic memoir of
feasts, famines, and three generations
With startling beauty and sardonic wit, Anya von Bremzen tells an
intimate yet epic story of life in that vanished empire known as
the USSR--a place where every edible morsel was packed with
emotional and political meaning.
Born in 1963, in an era of bread shortages, Anya grew up in a
communal Moscow apartment where eighteen families shared one
kitchen. She sang odes to Lenin, black-marketeered Juicy Fruit gum
at school, watched her father brew moonshine, and, like most Soviet
citizens, longed for a taste of the mythical West. It was a life by
turns absurd, drab, naively joyous, melancholy--and ultimately
intolerable to her anti-Soviet mother, Larisa. When Anya was ten,
she and Larisa fled the political repression of Brezhnev-era
Russia, arriving in Philadelphia with no winter coats and no right
of return.
Now Anya occupies two parallel food universes: one where she
writes about four-star restaurants, the other where a taste of
humble "kolbasa" transports her back to her scarlet-blazed
socialist past. To bring that past to life, in its full flavor,
both bitter and sweet, Anya and Larisa, embark on a journey unlike
any other: they decide to eat and cook their way through every
decade of the Soviet experience--turning Larisa's kitchen into a
"time machine and an incubator of memories." Together, mother and
daughter re-create meals both modest and sumptuous, featuring a
decadent fish pie from the pages of Chekhov, "chanakhi "(Stalin's
favorite Georgian stew), blini, and more.
Through these meals, Anya tells the gripping story of three Soviet
generations--
masterfully capturing the strange mix of idealism, cynicism,
longing, and terror that defined Soviet life. We meet her
grandfather Naum, a glamorous intelligence chief under Stalin, and
her grandmother Liza, who made a perilous odyssey to icy, blockaded
Leningrad to find Naum during World War II. We meet Anya's
hard-drinking, sarcastic father, Sergei, who cruelly abandons his
family shortly after Anya is born; and we are captivated by Larisa,
the romantic dreamer who grew up dreading the black public
loudspeakers trumpeting the glories of the Five-Year Plan. Their
stories unfold against the vast panorama of Soviet history: Lenin's
bloody grain requisitioning, World War II hunger and survival,
Stalin's table manners, Khrushchev's kitchen debates, Gorbachev's
disastrous anti-alcohol policies. And, ultimately, the collapse of
the USSR. And all of it is bound together by Anya's passionate
nostalgia, sly humor, and piercing observations.
" Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking" is that rare book that stirs
our souls and our senses.
"From the Hardcover edition."
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