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Artificial Color - Modern Food and Racial Fictions (Paperback)
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Artificial Color - Modern Food and Racial Fictions (Paperback)
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In Artificial Color, Catherine Keyser examines the early twentieth
century phenomenon, wherein US writers became fascinated with
modern food-global geographies, nutritional theories, and
technological innovations. African American literature of the 1920s
and 1930s uses new food technologies as imaginative models for
resisting and recasting oppressive racial categories. In his
masterwork Cane (1923), Jean Toomer follows sugar from the
boiling-pots of the South to the speakeasies of the North. Through
effervescent and colorful soda, he rejects the binary of black and
white in favor of a dream of artificial color and a new American
race. In his serial science fiction, Black Empire (1938-39), George
Schuyler associates hydroponics and raw foods with racial hybridity
and utopian futures. The second half of the book focuses on white
expatriate writers who experienced local food cultures as sensuous
encounters with racial others. Ernest Hemingway and Gertrude Stein
associate regional European races with the ideal of terroir and
aspire to transplantation through their own connoisseurship. In
their novels set in the Mediterranean, F. Scott and Zelda
Fitzgerald both dramatize the white body's susceptibility to
intoxicating and stimulating substances like wine and coffee. For
Scott Fitzgerald, the climatological and culinary corruption of the
South produces the tragic fall of white masculinity. For Zelda, by
contrast, it exposes the destructiveness and fictitiousness of the
white feminine purity ideal. During the Great Depression and the
Second World War, African American writers Zora Neale Hurston and
Dorothy West exposed the racism that shaped the global food
industry and the precarity of black labor. Their engagement with
food, however, insisted upon pleasure as well as vulnerability, the
potential of sensuous flesh and racial affiliation. In its embrace
of invention and interconnection, Catherine Keyser contends, this
modern fiction reveals that, far from being stable, whiteness may
be the most obviously artificial color of them all.
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