In contrast to the other senses, smell has long been thought of
as too elusive, too fleeting for traditional historical study.
Holly Dugan disagrees, arguing that there are rich accounts
documenting how men and women produced, consumed, and represented
perfumes and their ephemeral effects. She delves deeply into the
cultural archive of olfaction to explore what a sense of smell
reveals about everyday life in early modern England.
In this book, Dugan " "focuses on six important scents--incense,
rose, sassafras, rosemary, ambergris, and jasmine. She links these
smells to the unique spaces they inhabited--churches, courts,
contact zones, plague-ridden households, luxury markets, and
pleasure gardens--and the objects used to dispense them. This
original approach provides a rare opportunity to study how early
modern men and women negotiated the environment in their everyday
lives and the importance of smell to their daily actions.
Dugan defines perfume broadly to include spices, flowers, herbs,
animal parts, trees, resins, and other ingredients used to produce
artificial scents, smokes, fumes, airs, balms, powders, and
liquids. In researching these Renaissance aromas, Dugan uncovers
the extraordinary ways, now largely lost, that people at the time
spoke and wrote about smell: objects "ambered, civited, expired,
fetored, halited, resented, and smeeked" or were described as
"breathful, embathed, endulced, gracious, halited, incensial,
odorant, pulvil, redolent, and suffite."
A unique contribution to early modern studies, The Ephemeral
History of Perfume is an unparalleled study of olfaction in the
Renaissance, a period in which new scents and important cultural
theories about smell were developed. Dugan's inspired analysis of a
wide range of underexplored sources makes available to scholars a
remarkable wealth of information on the topic.
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