Thomas Keller, chef/proprieter of Napa Valley's French Laundry, is
passionate about bistro cooking. He believes fervently that the
real art of cooking lies in elevating to excellence the simplest
ingredients; that bistro cooking embodies at once a culinary ethos
of generosity, economy, and simplicity; that the techniques at its
foundation are profound, and the recipes at its heart have a
powerful ability to nourish and please.
So enamored is he of this older, more casual type of cooking that
he opened the restaurant Bouchon, right next door to the French
Laundry, so he could satisfy a craving for a perfectly made quiche,
or a gratineed onion soup, or a simple but irresistible roasted
chicken. Now Bouchon, the cookbook, embodies this cuisine in all
its sublime simplicity.
But let's begin at the real beginning. For Keller, great cooking
is all about the virtue of process and attention to detail. Even in
the humblest dish, the extra thought is evident, which is why this
food tastes so amazing: The onions for the onion soup are
caramelized for five hours; lamb cheeks are used for the navarin;
basic but essential refinements every step of the way make for the
cleanest flavors, the brightest vegetables, the perfect
balance--whether of fat to acid for a vinaigrette, of egg to liquid
for a custard, of salt to meat for a duck confit.
Because versatility as a cook is achieved through learning
foundations, Keller and Bouchon executive chef Jeff Cerciello
illuminate all the key points of technique along the way: how a
two-inch ring makes for a perfect quiche; how to recognize the
right hazelnut brown for a brown butter sauce; how far to
caramelize sugar for different uses.
Butlearning and refinement aside--oh those recipes! Steamed
mussels with saffron, bourride, trout grenobloise with its parsley,
lemon, and croutons; steak frites, beef bourguignon, chicken in the
pot--all exquisitely crafted. And those immortal desserts: the
tarte Tatin, the chocolate mousse, the lemon tart, the profiteroles
with chocolate sauce. In Bouchon, you get to experience them in
impeccably realized form.
This is a book to cherish, with its alluring mix of recipes and
the author's knowledge, warmth, and wit: "I find this a hopeful
time for the pig," says Keller about our yearning for the flavor
that has been bred out of pork. So let your imagination transport
you back to the burnished warmth of an old-fashioned French bistro,
pull up a stool to the zinc bar or slide into a banquette, and
treat yourself to truly great preparations that have not just
withstood the vagaries of fashion, but have improved with time.
Welcome to Bouchon.
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