"A volatile, competitive, and seasonal industry, the making of
men's suits has long been characterized by manufacturers who search
relentlessly for the cheapest labor pools. Sweatshop labor
conditions have been a regular feature of the industry, provoking
repeated and explosive investigations and constituting a target for
social reform and a major source of union concern. The Amalgamated
Clothing Workers from its inception in 1914 has sought to create a
process of labor-management relations that emphasizes cooperation
and negotiation" -- from the Introduction
Making the Amalgamated examines the policy and power
relationships that developed on the shopfloor, in the union hall,
on the picket line, and within the national organization of the
Amalgamated Clothing Workers (ACW) in the period when this industry
-- now largely departed from the United States -- teemed with
activity. A progressive union imbued with socialist principles, the
ACW practiced labor-management cooperation and attempted
simultaneously to discipline union members and to bring clothing
manufacturers to heel.
Jo Ann E. Argersinger examines both the interests that tended to
unify workers and the forces that divided them. She studies the
complex nature of union building itself, explores the seasonal
cycles of the clothing industry as a whole, and places Baltimore
and the ACW in national context, illustrating how local trends
collided with national union politics. Argersinger draws from the
strengths of the traditional approach to labor history. While
offering a full account of institutional growth of the union
movement, however, she also incorporates new insights, stressing
labor's social context and the shiftinginfluences of ethnicity,
gender, and culture. Blending old and new perspectives, Making the
Amalgamated calls for a more nuanced understanding of organized
labor and business practices.
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