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Grain and Fire - A History of Baking in the American South (Hardcover)
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Grain and Fire - A History of Baking in the American South (Hardcover)
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While a luscious layer cake may exemplify the towering glory of
southern baking, like everything about the American South, baking
is far more complicated than it seems. Rebecca Sharpless here
weaves a brilliant chronicle, vast in perspective and entertaining
in detail, revealing how three global food traditions-Indigenous
American, European, and African-collided with and merged in the
economies, cultures, and foodways of the South to create what we
know as the southern baking tradition. Recognizing that sentiments
around southern baking run deep, Sharpless takes delight in
deflating stereotypes as she delves into the suprising realities
underlying the creation and consumption of baked goods. People who
controlled the food supply in the South used baking to reinforce
their power and make social distinctions. Who used white cornmeal
and who used yellow, who put sugar in their cornbread and who did
not had traditional meanings for southerners, as did the
proportions of flour, fat, and liquid in biscuits. By the twentieth
century, however, the popularity of convenience foods and mixes
exploded in the region, as it did nationwide. Still, while some
regional distinctions have waned, baking in the South continues to
be a remarkable, and remarkably tasty, source of identity and
entrepreneurship.
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