Something of a landmark in the history of dress... the period is
notably rich in its documentation and by carefully analysing both
the manuscript sources and published accounts [the author] is able
to produce an abundantly detailed narrative of the changes in
fashion... Tighter clothes outraged moralists, incensed monastic
chroniclers and stirred poets... in the last chapter the author
discuss[es] the relationship of the garments she has meticulously
reconstructed with their possible representations in manuscript
illumination, sculpture and painting... Of lasting value... a
pioneering book which will be of enduring value to historians of
dress and art alike. APOLLO
The evidence for this scholarly and detailed study is drawn in
the first instance from documentary sources... contemporary
illustrations reinforce the written evidence... The book contains
much that is of wider interest than the subject matter suggests:
the various mottoes used by Edward III are discussed, and the
problem of his expanding waistline is revealed; there are
interesting sidelights on the new orders of chivalry. ENGLISH
HISTORICAL REVIEW
1340 to 1363 were years notable for dramatic developments in
fashion and for extravagant spending on costume, foreshadowing the
later luxury of Richard II's court. Stella Mary Newton's
ground-breaking study discusses the costume of the period in quite
remarkable detail, drawing on surviving accounts from the royal
courts, the evidence of chronicles and poetry (often from
unpublished manuscripts), and contemporary paintings. Her
exploration of aspects of chivalry, particularly the choice of
mottoes and devices worn at tournaments, and of the exchange of
gifts of clothingbetween reigning monarchs, offers new insights
into the social history of the times, and she has much to say that
is crucial to the study of illuminated manuscripts of the
fourteenth century.
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