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Books > Sport & Leisure > Sports & outdoor recreation > Water sports & recreations > Surfing, windsurfing, water skiing
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Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life (Paperback)
Loot Price: R291
Discovery Miles 2 910
You Save: R68
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Barbarian Days - A Surfing Life (Paperback)
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List price R359
Loot Price R291
Discovery Miles 2 910
You Save R68 (19%)
Expected to ship within 12 - 17 working days
|
Winner of the Pulitzer Price and William Hill Sports Book of the
Year: Barbarian Days is a deeply rendered self-portrait of a
lifelong surfer looking for transcendence 'that recalls early James
Salter' (Geoff Dyer, Observer) Surfing only looks like a sport. To
devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a
mental and physical study, a passionate way of life. New Yorker
writer William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in
California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a
life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South
Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the
edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf;
and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and
challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed
between man, board and water. Barbarian Days is an old-school
adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of
one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood
art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.
'Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading
Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled
substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, seen
through the gloss resin coat of a surfboard' Sports Illustrated
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