As a pioneer and icon of Berlin's underground culture, Claudia Skoda defined the fashion of the 1970s and 1980s. She knitted delicate yarns - having taught herself the handwork techniques - into groundbreaking, body-hugging designs that triggered a revolution in our understanding of knitwear. Superstars such as David Bowie and Iggy Pop were soon among her friends. Skoda's performance-like fashion shows became famous: they were staged as spectacular events in the Congress Hall or the Egyptian Museum and caused an international sensation. This comprehensive catalogue is published to accompany her first solo exhibition and presents fashion, photographs, films, and music by a wide range of artists, including Martin Kippenberger, Luciano Castelli, Salome, Jim Rakete, Ulrike Ottinger, Silke Grossmann, Manuel Goettsching, and Kraftwerk. The book not only highlights Skoda's fashion designs, but also looks at how they were produced and marketed. In addition, it explores her living community and workshop "Fabrikneu", her fashion shows and stores, her time in New York, as well as her social networks and her collaborations with many different artists. Published to accompany an exhibition at Kunstbibliothek, Berlin, between 18 December 2020 and 11 April 2021. Text in English and German.

Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.

Never-before-seen photos of McQueen's brilliantly creative world from an exclusive backstage photographer Alexander McQueen, the iconic designer whose untimely death in 2010 left the fashion world reeling and fans worldwide clamoring for more, fused immense creativity, audacity, and a hauntingly dark aesthetic sense into powerful, unforgettable imagery. The strange, singular beauty of his clothing was matched by the spectacle of his legendary fashion shows, which demonstrated his outstanding showmanship and consistently pushed the boundaries of runway events. Robert Fairer's intimate, vibrant full-color photographs of McQueen's collections, taken backstage and on the catwalk when few photographers were allowed access, offer a unique insight into the life and work of one of the world's most captivating figures. This previously unpublished portfolio of stunning, high-energy photographs captures the people and the spirit that made the designer's flamboyant shows unique. Fairer, Vogue's backstage fashion photographer for over a decade, was an integral part of the whirl of activity behind the scenes. These images, which capture both the glamor and the grit, represent a new genre of fashion photography and are a treasure-trove of inspiration. This superb book contains an introduction and collections texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox. Dynamic images of McQueen's collections--thirty of his total of thirty-six shows are presented chronologically--portray behind-the-scenes moments that reveal stylists, models, hairdressers, makeup artists, and McQueen himself at their most candid and creative.

This comprehensive, profusely illustrated book--with over 800 illustrations--documents chronologically, by century, more than 2,000 years of head coverings--a subject that encompasses many eras and nationalities. Used as protection against the weather (or against an enemy's weapons), as a badge of office, or as something to enhance the wearer's self-esteem, headgear not only includes hats of all shapes and sizes but also comprises crowns, wigs, tiaras, and helmets. The author's own drawings, deriving from period paintings, sculptures, and illustrations, accurately depict varied forms of headdresses, among them, conical shaped leather caps worn by the Danish in 70 b.c.; metal Viking helmets with horns; Flemish berets (1410) enhanced with a large feather; petite straw hats adorned with a rosette and narrow ribbons (1870); handsome English top hats (1957); as well as ecclesiastical headdresses, traditional and national styles, and non-European hats and head-adornment. An invaluable reference for designers, art students, and costume historians, this entertaining and literate survey will delight anyone with a special interest in headgear. Unabridged republication of the edition published by Richard Sadler Ltd., Chalfont St. Giles, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain, 1974. Glossary. List of Sources. Over 800 black-and-white illustrations.

Since the mid-20th century fashion has undergone phenomenal change at a rapid pace in the context of unprecedented social, political and cultural upheaval. This fully updated and expanded second edition of Costume Since 1945 brings this period to life through accessible, lively text and over 100 illustrations. From the austerity of the utility years to punk and protest to 21st century fast fashion and vintage style, the volume captures changes the mood and style of each era across street fashion, sportswear, formal wear from suits to couture gowns, underwear and nightclothes. Based on a wide range of sources, the author's illustrations offer engaging insights on fashion history as well as design inspiration. Written for students and scholars of costume design and fashion history, practitioners and anyone interested in historical dress, this book provides a unique perspective on fashion from a renowned international costume designer.

The book presents a portrait of Tirelli with the history of his apprenticeship and his passion not only for the painstaking reproduction of ancient garments and accessories but also for building up a priceless collection of tens of thousands of original items of clothing. A long chapter presents testimonials from faithful customers including the most illustrious Italian and foreign costume designers, winners of countless Oscars, some of whom have been with Tirelli from the outset. The rich array of illustrations - comprising sketches, photographs of finished costumes and scenes from plays and films - spans five decades of inventions and successes, and the work ends with a catalogue raisonne of the company's creations for theater, opera, cinema, and television.

A chronicle of Grace Coddington's formative years at Vogue, now available as a jacketed paperback

Grace: Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue showcases some of the most memorable photographs published in British and American Vogue from 1972 to 2002, stories created by the iconic fashion editor Grace Coddington. Both monograph and memoir, the book shows how Coddington transformed static studio portraiture into modern vivid tableaux and turned location shoots into cinematic narratives.

Grace's commentary gives behind-the-scenes insight into many famous images and fashion personalities, from the iconic shoot of a bikinied Naomi Campbell in Irving Penn's studio to Steven Meisel's boundary-pushing grunge aesthetic in nineties Vogue. This volume features photography by Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Cecil Beaton, Guy Bourdin, Mario Testino, Steven Meisel, Annie Leibovitz, Steven Klein, Peter Lindbergh, among others.

First published in 2002 and reissued by Phaidon in 2015 to great success, this paperback, midi-sized edition includes forewords by fashion designer Karl Lagerfeld and American Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour.

The delightful patterns collected in this book, which have been created by talented designers from all over the world, are inspired by botanic shapes, the animal kingdom, geometry or abstract forms. The book presents the work of fifty designers who specialize in the field, and it includes interviews in which a selection of professionals share their design philosophy and work process. It focuses especially on home interiors, textiles, wallpaper, home accessories and fashion. Whether they are vibrant blooms or dazzling triangles, and whether they have a clean Scandinavian air or a delicate Japanese touch, the irresistible designs contained in this collection will offer the reader endless delight and heaps of inspiration for decoration and fashion fans and professionals.

Paper doll fans and Shakespeare enthusiasts can dress two dolls in charmingly detailed period costumes for Romeo and Juliet, Hamlet and Ophelia, Othello and Desdemona, Anthony and Cleopatra. Also includes apparel from The Tempest, The Merchant of Venice, Macbeth, Henry V, Richard III, and six other celebrated plays. A great way to introduce youngsters to Shakespeare. Includes brief synopses of plays. 30 costumes.

Forty-five handsome, ready-to--color plates of illustrations depict all social classes in 15th- and 16th-century England-from country workers in woolen tunics and leather boots and sailors in canvas breeches and shirts to officials in fur-trimmed robes and elegantly clad Tudor monarchs. Also, detailed drawings of period hairstyles, headgear, shoes, gloves, jewelry, other fashion accessories. Captions.

"What more glorious claim to fame could there be than Milliner to the Queen? ", asks Stephane Bern in his preface to this exclusive book marking the 30th anniversary of MAISON FABIENNE DELVIGNE. The book traces the exceptional career of Fabienne Delvigne, the Belgian entrepreneur, hat designer and craftswoman who creates highend luxury products. Across Europe, Fabienne Delvigne's designs sublimate the beauty of women. Her unique talent was recognised in 2001, when she gained the trust of the Belgian royal family, who awarded her the coveted title of Warrant Holder of the Court of Belgium. In this book, Fabienne casts a refined and joyful gaze on the world of fashion, and introduces us into her world, a world made up encounters, hard work, inspiring walks, and the joy of practising her craft every day. An original and exhilarating volume that not only looks back on the milliner's career, but also reveals a woman of character who defends an artistic heritage while being of her time. Since 2008, alongside her Haute Couture collections, she has designed, for each season, a Studio Collection composed of stylish, pret-a-porter hats. The body of the text? The words that helped her fashion her creative universe. The spirit moving that body? Passion, her passions. Anecdotes, recollections, previously unseen projects, a behind-the-scenes view of the creator's artistry, a look back on her collaborations with such leading companies as Guerlain and BMW, and, of course, hats to go mad for! This book has been released to mark the 30th anniversary of Maison Fabienne Delvigne, with forewords provided by Stephane Bern and Diane von Furstenberg. Readers will discover the passion that drives this Belgian entrepreneur, a perfectionist to the very tips of her scissors. A Warrant Holder of several European Courts, Fabienne also designs hats for all the elegantes who enter her Brussels boudoir workshop. Leafing through the book, readers will not fail to appreciate her unique and fascinating journey.

Paris, Capital of Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This lavishly-illustrated book is edited by MFIT's director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, also the author of the acclaimed Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. This new book opens with an important essay on how and why Paris became famous as the international "capital of fashion." Steele traces how the mythic "aura" of Paris fashion was constructed over generations, as the splendour of the court at Versailles came to be echoed by the spectacle of the haute couture. Yet Paris has faced repeated challenges from other fashion capitals, especially London, Milan, and New York. Essays by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert, Grazia d'Annunzio, and Antonia Finnane place Paris within a broader global narrative, while Sophie Kurkdjian investigates the cultural value of the Parisian couture, and Agnes Rocomora explores the online imagery of the chic Parisienne. As The New Yorker recently put it, Paris is "the most glamorous and competitive of the world's fashion capitals." No other city has been branded "Fashion" as Paris has. By opening the study of Paris fashion to new approaches, this book explains why Paris still retains its position as the world's undisputed fashion capital.

Fashion is one of the defining features of human evolution and culture. Spanning from the first civilizations to today's most recent trends, this enlarged and updated edition of our bestseller analyses the importance and meaning of fashion via an in-depth approach and a rich selection of illustrations and photographs. It contains interpretative sketches and drawings of the clothes that are featured in paintings and works of art to provide an overall perspective on and a comprehensive understanding of fashion. The lavish visuals, which many other titles in this field lack, truly bring the clothes and fashion accessories to life. In this book, the reader will discover the beauty and mystery of fashion throughout the ages, the roles it has played in society and the creativity and inventive power it has held throughout history.

Francois Berthoud is known for his painstakingly produced and meticulously arranged linocuts and his expressive drip paintings and elegant computer graphics have graced the face of countless magazines and advertising campaigns for the world s most discerning and sought-after fashion brands including Yves-St-Laurent, Bulgari, Chanel, Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel, and Prada. His work presents the conceptual aspect of fashion, maintaining a strict line between the edge of eroticism which he claims to be all important. Emerging as a leading fashion illustrator and art director in the 80s, Berthoud s distinct style was championed by the legendary Anna Piaggi early on in her avant-garde publication Vanity that was published by Conde Nast. She hailed him by saying that while Francois illustrates fashion in an apparently formal and decorative way, in reality he analyses his subject in depth and with an elegant sense of detachment before recreating it in his atelier-laboratory . He experiences fashion with a sharp sense of irony and a visual culture rooted in conceptual art. But his style is totally now! Berthoud has a reputation for romantic fashion illustration and for erotica (he was the illustrator for Betony Vernon s The Boudoir Bible) and where the two often overlap. Featuring essays by Chris Dercon and Daniele Barbieri, the book concludes with a conversation with Franc?ois Berthoud transcribed by Christian Ka?mmerling.

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers' ideas.This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.

High fashion unquestionably goes hand-in-hand with sartorial and stylistic perfection. A driving force behind the entire fashion and garment industry, it represents the search for new solutions concerning fabrics, style or patterns. In this context, the patternmaker is an essential figure who makes the stylist's ideas a reality. In our richly illustrated new volume in the Fashion Patternmaking series, the prolific author Antonio Donnanno describes the methods and techniques used in high-fashion for making drapes, frills and flounces, collars, necklines and sleeves, and high-fashion trousers and skirts in a detailed, understandable and step-by-step way.

Fascinating survey of various undergarments worn by the English over six centuries. Well-documented, scholarly presentation enhanced with over 100 period illustrations depicting laced-up bodice of the 12th century, embroidered linen drawers (1500s), hooped petticoat support in bentwood (c. 1750), footed long drawers (1795), 19th-century bustles, early 19th-century corsets for men, Victorian "bust improvers," much more. Engaging and valuable reference book for costume historians, sociologists, and general readers.

Great fashion photography, at its best, reflects and shapes the era in which it is made. Whether you are a student, aspiring photographer, or working professional, building a fashion portfolio that aspires to this standard can be daunting. The Fashion Image will help you develop your style through practical advice for image makers. Beginning with a history of fashion photography, Thomas Werner offers advice on assembling your creative team, casting models, developing shoot concepts, and producing photographs and fashion film for editorial and advertising. Professional practice, including self-promotion, social media, set etiquette, and fashion in a global context are also discussed. This is 'how to' at the highest level, with interviews from working fashion photographers, magazine editors, producers, fashion designers, and more, with around 200 color photographs that illustrate the fashion image at its best. With an extensive list of international resources, including Instagram accounts and several assignments, this book is an essential guide for fashion photographers and film makers.

Fashion deals with a world of illusion on the one hand and a hard-bitten, multifaceted and multi-billion pound industry on the other. This stimulating book clarifies how fashion operates on all its levels: the mystery of haute couture is explained, the complexities of ready to wear are simplified, and the power of mass production assessed and evaluated. Fashion terms, their use and meaning are explained in plain words and the complicated stages of design, manufacture and distribution are described in detail. Also included are sections on bespoke tailoring, wholesale menswear, dressmaking, millinery and accessories, the fashion calendar and short biographies on the most influential designers. Every follower of fashion, whether at college or in big business, will welcome the information presented in this book.The Author Gavin Waddell, whose experience of fashion is wide ranging, has worked as a designer for two of London's top couturiers, as a ready-to-wear designer with his own label, as a forecaster, menswear designer and illustrator and more recently as a writer on the subject. As an educator he has run three of Britain's foremost fashion schools and performed the role of assessor, external examiner and advisor to many of the country's leading colleges and universities. He studied fashion design at Saint Martin's School of Art London and has had his work featured in, amongst others, "Womenswear Daily", "Vogue", "Harpers and Queen" and "The Times". It features a cover illustration drawn by the author from a photograph by Franco Rubartelli of Veruschka wearing the famous safari shirt by Yves Saint Laurent from his spring/summer 1968 collection.

This explosive narrative reveals for the first time the shocking hidden years of Coco Chanel's life: her collaboration with the Nazis in Paris, her affair with a master spy, and her work for the German military intelligence service and Himmler's SS.
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was the high priestess of couture who created the look of the modern woman. By the 1920s she had amassed a fortune and went on to create an empire. But her life from 1941 to 1954 has long been shrouded in rumor and mystery, never clarified by Chanel or her many biographers. Hal Vaughan exposes the truth of her wartime collaboration and her long affair with the playboy Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage--who ran a spy ring and reported directly to Goebbels. Vaughan pieces together how Chanel became a Nazi agent, how she escaped arrest after the war and joined her lover in exile in Switzerland, and how--despite suspicions about her past--she was able to return to Paris at age seventy and rebuild the iconic House of Chanel.