From Elizabeth Keckly's designs as a freewoman for Abraham Lincoln's wife to flamboyant clothing showcased by Patrick Kelly in Paris, Black designers have made major contributions to American fashion. However, many of their achievements have gone unrecognized. This book, inspired by the award-winning exhibition at the Museum at FIT, uncovers hidden histories of Black designers at a time when conversations about representation and racialized experiences in the fashion industry have reached all-time highs. In chapters from leading and up-and-coming authors and curators, Black Designers in American Fashion uses previously unexplored sources to show how Black designers helped build America's global fashion reputation. From enslaved 18th-century dressmakers to 20th-century "star" designers, via independent modistes and Seventh Avenue workers, the book traces the changing experiences of Black designers under conditions such as slavery, segregation, and the Civil Rights Movement. Black Designers in American Fashion shows that within these contexts Black designers maintained multifaceted practices which continue to influence American and global style today. Interweaving fashion design and American cultural history, this book fills critical gaps in the history of fashion and offers insights and context to students of fashion, design, and American and African American history and culture.

"The book is an excellent resource for students in identifying the range of positions they can have in the fashion industry. Interviews with professionals are included to aid students in decision making about careers choices." - Lori Faulkner, Ferris State University, USA Learn what to expect on the job, required education and training, and the relationship of the role to the fashion industry as a whole. Among the more than 75 role descriptions are four new roles for Sustainability Officer, Transparency Officer, Data Analyst, and Reference Librarian. More than 175 images show you recent developments affecting the industry sectors and career opportunities. Case studies, Social media Strikes features, chapter summaries, key terms, online resources, discussion questions, and a glossary will help you identify which careers match your aptitudes, skill sets, and interests. New to this Edition * In-depth job descriptions for a wider range of careers expanded to include Technical Designer, Brand Marketing Manager, and Spreader and Cutter, among others * New sections on recycling and sustainability, trends in brand marketing, and portfolio development and presentation * Fully updated online resources throughout the book * Updated Case Studies in Career Exploration boxes showcase profiles of companies, interviews with individuals, industry scenarios, and insider tips * Updated Appendices include sample resumes and career positions sorted by career areas, with Web links to salary and benefit information The Fashion Industry and Its Careers STUDIO Study smarter with self-quizzes featuring scored results and personalized study tips Review concepts with flashcards of essential vocabulary

Costing for the Fashion Industry is a practical, easy-to-use guide to the manufacture, sourcing and risk management methods essential to make a new fashion business venture financially viable. Each chapter focuses on a theme, such as entrepreneurship, time constraints, global awareness and new markets and sourcing, alongside practical exercises and detailed industry case studies to put the theory into context. This second edition explores capital investment decisions, the changing nature of cost and the importance of global awareness and new markets, as well as expanded coverage of internationalization strategies for SMEs.

A collection of 100 postcards, each featuring a striking cover from American Vogue. From early aspirational illustrations to modern celebrity photography, this is a stunning selection of Vogue's most dazzling images. Since its launch in 1892, Vogue has brought sophistication to its readers around the world. Early illustrations from artists including George Wolfe Plank, Olive Tilton, Pierre Brissaud, and Eduardo Garcia Benito saw ethereal figures of fantasy develop into red-lipped flappers, and as colour photographs began to appear, the women transformed again: from Surrealist images by Horst P. Horst to 'women in the life of the moment', captured by Irving Penn. From the fifties onwards, Vogue women became more accessible still, as models and stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Goldie Hawn, Cindy Crawford, and Cher, with their own distinct personalities, appeared through the lenses of Richard Avedon and Snowdon. Vogue covers now are the epitome of style and beauty, with such illustrious photographers as Mario Testino, Annie Leibovitz, Steven Klein, and Patrick Demarchelier photographing stars like Lady Gaga, Kirsten Dunst, and Kate Moss, celebrating female icons across modern culture.

This highly acclaimed study explores Kafka's early dandyism and interest in fashion, literary decadence, and the `superficial' spectacle of modern urban life as well as his subsequent repudiation of these phenomena in forging a literary identity as isolated, otherwordly `poet' of modern alienation. In its discussion of Jugendstil aesthetics, Otto Weininger's `egoless' woman, the Viennese critique of architectural ornament, the clothing-reform movement, anti-Semitism, and the question of Jewish-German writing, Kafka's Clothes paints a startlingly unconventional portrait of Kafka and Prague at the turn of the century.

An understanding of trends is a fundamental skill for anyone working in the fashion industry. In this book Gwyneth Holland and Rae Jones look at how to produce a well-researched trend, from initial inspiration to concrete idea and, eventually, real product. Illustrated throughout with insights from practising trend forecasters and industry insiders, it is an invaluable guide for fashion students and practitioners alike.

A great book for expressing your creative fashion urges, with doodling, drawing and colouring exercises to fill in.Fashion illustrator and lecturer Frances Moffatt provides suggestions and half-filled pages of drawings and doodles for you to continue. Including sections on designing your own fashion blog, creating your own festival fashions, styling street style models from across the globe, adding bling to celebrity pets and creating your own fashion patterns and prints. This book is packed full of fun exercises to get creative and bring out the fashionista in you. Unleash your creative potential by adding colour, patterns and glitter to these line drawings to make them unique to your style. Whether it's a simple colouring-in piece, or a more considered drawing, the suggestions offer something for everyone and encourage you to make the book about your own style.

The more than eighty collaborators featured in this book comprise an A to Z of Vuitton s creative collaborations, especially from the last decade, with significant chapters devoted to the work of Nicolas Ghesquiere, Marc Jacobs, Takashi Murakami and other key collaborators. Never forgetting the long tradition of the house, the period covered by the book from the late 1990s through the present day will describe the role that Louis Vuitton is playing in a crucial moment in global fashion. Now with 536 pages, this edition features more than 130 pages of stunning new imagery that showcases the increasingly symbiotic relationship between fashion, art, and design.

"Deliciously dramatic... The Beautiful Fall crackles with excitement."-New York Times Book Review
In the 1970s, Paris fashion exploded like a champagne bottle left out in the sun. Amid sequins and longing, celebrities and aspirants flocked to the heart of chic, and Paris became a hothouse of revelry, intrigue, and searing ambition. At the center of it all were fashion's most beloved luminaries - Yves Saint Laurent, the reclusive "enfant terrible, " and Karl Lagerfeld, the flamboyant freelancer with a talent for reinvention - and they divided Paris into two fabulous halves. Their enduring rivalry is chronicled in this dazzling expose of an era: of social ambitions, shared obsessions, and the mesmerizing quest for beauty.

"Fascinating." -"New York"" Times"

"Addictive." -"Philadelphia"" Inquirer"

"It's like "US Weekly," 1970s style." -"Gotham"

"A story constructed as exquisitely as a couture dress. . . . It moves stylishly forward, with frequent over-the-shoulder glances at some very dishy background." -"Boston""Globe"

Intended for fashion students and fashion designers, this fabric book is indispensable for sourcing and selecting textiles for fashion. It will guide you to the perfect fabric for every design, helping you find the ideal material to achieve the desired effect and recommending different ways to use it. With a revised and updated selection of photographs from fashion shows that exemplify current fashion trends in which the collections of such renowned designers as Givenchy, Stella McCartney, Vuitton, Vivian Westwood, van Herpen, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein appeared, the book shows you how some of the most emblematic names in fashion today use fabrics to achieve the highest expression of their creativity. This updated and enlarged edition also includes a detailed technical and historical introduction on the types of fabrics and their classification, the relationship between fabric and the fashion industry and the aesthetic, emotional, commercial and social aspects involved. This fabric bible is sure to become essential reading for all aspiring and experienced dressmakers and fashion designers.

Clothing appears in all forms of figurative painting, often taking up two thirds of a frame; yet it can often go unnoticed. Far more than a simple means of identifying the status or occupation of a figure, clothes and cloth are used creatively by artists to hint at ambiguities in character, adjust the emotional temperature, direct the eye or make subtle allusions. Drawing on works by artists over a period of six centuries, from Giotto to El Greco, Matisse to Cindy Sherman, the author reveals through paintings, fashion plates, photographs and film stills how drapery in art evolved from Renaissance extravagance to Neoclassical simplicity at the end of the 18th century, and has extended to infinite uses in all genres of Modern art. First published in 2002 to accompany an exhibition of the same name at the National Gallery, London, this beautifully illustrated - and beautifully written - book by pioneering art historian and critic Anne Hollander, is reissued with a new Foreword by Valerie Steele. As penetrating and insightful as when it was first published, it remains a must-read for today's generation of students and anyone with an interest in art and fashion.

As a pioneer and icon of Berlin's underground culture, Claudia Skoda defined the fashion of the 1970s and 1980s. She knitted delicate yarns - having taught herself the handwork techniques - into groundbreaking, body-hugging designs that triggered a revolution in our understanding of knitwear. Superstars such as David Bowie and Iggy Pop were soon among her friends. Skoda's performance-like fashion shows became famous: they were staged as spectacular events in the Congress Hall or the Egyptian Museum and caused an international sensation. This comprehensive catalogue is published to accompany her first solo exhibition and presents fashion, photographs, films, and music by a wide range of artists, including Martin Kippenberger, Luciano Castelli, Salome, Jim Rakete, Ulrike Ottinger, Silke Grossmann, Manuel Goettsching, and Kraftwerk. The book not only highlights Skoda's fashion designs, but also looks at how they were produced and marketed. In addition, it explores her living community and workshop "Fabrikneu", her fashion shows and stores, her time in New York, as well as her social networks and her collaborations with many different artists. Published to accompany an exhibition at Kunstbibliothek, Berlin, between 18 December 2020 and 11 April 2021. Text in English and German.

Fashion History: A Global View proposes a new perspective on fashion history. Arguing that fashion has occurred in cultures beyond the West throughout history, this groundbreaking book explores the geographic places and historical spaces that have been largely neglected by contemporary fashion studies, bringing them together for the first time. Reversing the dominant narrative that privileges Western Europe in the history of dress, Welters and Lillethun adopt a cross-cultural approach to explore a vast array of cultures around the globe. They explore key issues affecting fashion systems, ranging from innovation, production and consumption to identity formation and the effects of colonization. Case studies include the cross-cultural trade of silk textiles in Central Asia, the indigenous dress of the Americas and of Hawai'i, the cosmetics of the Tang Dynasty in China, and stylistic innovation in sub-Saharan Africa. Examining the new lessons that can be deciphered from archaeological findings and theoretical advancements, the book shows that fashion history should be understood as a global phenomenon, originating well before and beyond the fourteenth century European court, which is continually, and erroneously, cited as fashion's birthplace. Providing a fresh framework for fashion history scholarship, Fashion History: A Global View will inspire inclusive dress narratives for students and scholars of fashion, anthropology, and cultural studies.

According to the renowned social critic and historian Paul Fussell, we are what we wear, and it doesn't look good. Unfolding the history and cultural significance of all manner of uniforms, Fussell reveals what our clothing says about class, sex, and the desire to belong. With keen insight and considerable curmudgeonly flair, Fussell fondly analyzes the roles that uniforms play in all kinds of communities, including those of the military, health care, the church, food service, sports, and civilian life. "A varied and satisfying feast" (San Diego Union-Tribune), Uniforms parses the hidden meanings of the apparel we wear -- from brass buttons to blue jeans, badges to feather flourishes -- to connect us to our chosen peers. Uniforms is "revelatory, ribald, and irresistible" (Shirley Hazzard).

Never-before-seen photos of McQueen's brilliantly creative world from an exclusive backstage photographer Alexander McQueen, the iconic designer whose untimely death in 2010 left the fashion world reeling and fans worldwide clamoring for more, fused immense creativity, audacity, and a hauntingly dark aesthetic sense into powerful, unforgettable imagery. The strange, singular beauty of his clothing was matched by the spectacle of his legendary fashion shows, which demonstrated his outstanding showmanship and consistently pushed the boundaries of runway events. Robert Fairer's intimate, vibrant full-color photographs of McQueen's collections, taken backstage and on the catwalk when few photographers were allowed access, offer a unique insight into the life and work of one of the world's most captivating figures. This previously unpublished portfolio of stunning, high-energy photographs captures the people and the spirit that made the designer's flamboyant shows unique. Fairer, Vogue's backstage fashion photographer for over a decade, was an integral part of the whirl of activity behind the scenes. These images, which capture both the glamor and the grit, represent a new genre of fashion photography and are a treasure-trove of inspiration. This superb book contains an introduction and collections texts by fashion expert Claire Wilcox. Dynamic images of McQueen's collections--thirty of his total of thirty-six shows are presented chronologically--portray behind-the-scenes moments that reveal stylists, models, hairdressers, makeup artists, and McQueen himself at their most candid and creative.

This comprehensive, profusely illustrated book--with over 800 illustrations--documents chronologically, by century, more than 2,000 years of head coverings--a subject that encompasses many eras and nationalities. Used as protection against the weather (or against an enemy's weapons), as a badge of office, or as something to enhance the wearer's self-esteem, headgear not only includes hats of all shapes and sizes but also comprises crowns, wigs, tiaras, and helmets. The author's own drawings, deriving from period paintings, sculptures, and illustrations, accurately depict varied forms of headdresses, among them, conical shaped leather caps worn by the Danish in 70 b.c.; metal Viking helmets with horns; Flemish berets (1410) enhanced with a large feather; petite straw hats adorned with a rosette and narrow ribbons (1870); handsome English top hats (1957); as well as ecclesiastical headdresses, traditional and national styles, and non-European hats and head-adornment. An invaluable reference for designers, art students, and costume historians, this entertaining and literate survey will delight anyone with a special interest in headgear. Unabridged republication of the edition published by Richard Sadler Ltd., Chalfont St. Giles, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain, 1974. Glossary. List of Sources. Over 800 black-and-white illustrations.

Since the mid-20th century fashion has undergone phenomenal change at a rapid pace in the context of unprecedented social, political and cultural upheaval. This fully updated and expanded second edition of Costume Since 1945 brings this period to life through accessible, lively text and over 100 illustrations. From the austerity of the utility years to punk and protest to 21st century fast fashion and vintage style, the volume captures changes the mood and style of each era across street fashion, sportswear, formal wear from suits to couture gowns, underwear and nightclothes. Based on a wide range of sources, the author's illustrations offer engaging insights on fashion history as well as design inspiration. Written for students and scholars of costume design and fashion history, practitioners and anyone interested in historical dress, this book provides a unique perspective on fashion from a renowned international costume designer.

The book presents a portrait of Tirelli with the history of his apprenticeship and his passion not only for the painstaking reproduction of ancient garments and accessories but also for building up a priceless collection of tens of thousands of original items of clothing. A long chapter presents testimonials from faithful customers including the most illustrious Italian and foreign costume designers, winners of countless Oscars, some of whom have been with Tirelli from the outset. The rich array of illustrations - comprising sketches, photographs of finished costumes and scenes from plays and films - spans five decades of inventions and successes, and the work ends with a catalogue raisonne of the company's creations for theater, opera, cinema, and television.

The delightful patterns collected in this book, which have been created by talented designers from all over the world, are inspired by botanic shapes, the animal kingdom, geometry or abstract forms. The book presents the work of fifty designers who specialize in the field, and it includes interviews in which a selection of professionals share their design philosophy and work process. It focuses especially on home interiors, textiles, wallpaper, home accessories and fashion. Whether they are vibrant blooms or dazzling triangles, and whether they have a clean Scandinavian air or a delicate Japanese touch, the irresistible designs contained in this collection will offer the reader endless delight and heaps of inspiration for decoration and fashion fans and professionals.

Paper doll fans and Shakespeare enthusiasts can dress two dolls in charmingly detailed period costumes for Romeo and Juliet, Hamlet and Ophelia, Othello and Desdemona, Anthony and Cleopatra. Also includes apparel from The Tempest, The Merchant of Venice, Macbeth, Henry V, Richard III, and six other celebrated plays. A great way to introduce youngsters to Shakespeare. Includes brief synopses of plays. 30 costumes.